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Rip Those Macs Open
- Thread starter Kirkle
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Hey Vladfein, thanks!
1. I ordered an iMac 27" with top processor and top graphic card but with a normal 1tb HD. (Since the beginning I knew I would do this modification) so no worries, order a base HD instead the fusion one and invest that $250 for a good ssd! You don't need any extra cable, everything is already there.
2.
- $2350 (From B&H, no tax)
Imac 3.4Ghz i7 / 8Ghz Ram / 2GB GTX 680MX / 1TB HD
- $190 32GB Ram Crucial CT2C8G3S160BM (Amazon)
- $500 Samsung Blade retina 512GB (forum)
- $480 Samsung 840 Pro (B&H)
- $6 OCZ Bracket (Order another bracket this one doesn't fit perfectly)
- $20 OEM Apple Tape for resealing (Ebay)
- $6 Torx Set Screwdriver (Home depot)
TOTAL
$3552
3. In my own opinion is better to go RAID since the price is kind of the same. I'm amazed by my machine the performance is really incredible!
Let me know if you need more info!
Ps: Be sure to get the little screw for the Samsung blade in order to hold it in place!
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!
But let’s just compare apples to apples
Apple’s SSD (with edu discount) is $810, or $1.05 per GB.
Pros – your system:
1. Better performance
2. More price efficient
3. You have a spare 1TB HDD
Pros – Apple:
1. $200 less expensive (if you can live with 768GB internal storage).
2. No risky procedure.
Hmmm…
But let’s just compare apples to apples
Your storage cost is $1,012, or $0.99 per GB.
Apple’s SSD (with edu discount) is $810, or $1.05 per GB.
Pros – your system:
1. Better performance
2. More price efficient
3. You have a spare 1TB HDD
Pros – Apple:
1. $200 less expensive (if you can live with 768GB internal storage).
2. No risky procedure.
Hmmm…
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!
But lets just compare apples to apples
Your storage cost is $1,012, or $0.99 per GB.
Apples SSD (with edu discount) is $810, or $1.05 per GB.
Pros your system:
1. Better performance
2. More price efficient
Pros Apple:
1. $200 less expensive (if you can live with 768GB internal storage).
2. No risky procedure.
Hmmm
No question I agree. Plus I doubt anyone can tell the difference between 450MB/s read, and 8-900MB/s in any day-to-day work/gaming etc. Heck, I doubled my SSD speed from my OCZ Vertex to the Samsung 830, and I still can't tell.
for example, the macbook air has the same connector right?
so I found this on eBay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24pin-SATA-...856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abe28f408
so I found this on eBay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24pin-SATA-...856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abe28f408
Would be pretty great if that worked. You'd have to electrical tape the 2.5" SSD to the inside of the iMac, but I'd be OK with that.
If it's helpful to anyone, I've written a "Quick and Dirty 27" iMac SSD Upgrade Guide" post since I had trouble finding a proper takeapart guide, and there's plenty of room for the SSD to sit inside the case losse.
Hope it's helpful to the more timid users here. It really took 30 seconds to attach the SSD once I got the screen off. Couldn't have been easier.
Hope it's helpful to the more timid users here. It really took 30 seconds to attach the SSD once I got the screen off. Couldn't have been easier.
It appears from the R.OG teardown, that the hard disk is connected by a flexible cable/connector, so a "docking adapter" such as the excellent Icy Dock really isn't necessary. Amazon has several inexpensive 2.5" to 3.5" simple mounting brackets which should work fine for this purpose.
Of course, for the really cheap: double-sided foam tape or adhesive backed velcro would work as well since SSD drives weigh almost nothing.
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It appears from the RO.G teardown, that the hard disk is connected by a flexible cable/connector, so a "docking adapter" such as the excellent Icy Dock really isn't necessary. Amazon has several inexpensive 2.5" to 3.5" simple mounting brackets which should work fine for this purpose.
Of course, for the really cheap: double-sided foam tape or adhesive backed velcro would work as well since SSD drives weigh almost nothing.
Sure Amazon does, but what with people complaining about some of them not being quite big enough etc etc, I like to know specifically which ones have worked for people - before ripping apart my iMac.
It appears from the RO.G teardown, that the hard disk is connected by a flexible cable/connector, so a "docking adapter" such as the excellent Icy Dock really isn't necessary. Amazon has several inexpensive 2.5" to 3.5" simple mounting brackets which should work fine for this purpose.
Of course, for the really cheap: double-sided foam tape or adhesive backed velcro would work as well since SSD drives weigh almost nothing.
I used velcro and it worked fine. I ordered the icydock and mine was defective. It wouldn't read my ssd and after multiple tries I just connected the ssd directly to the imac and just used velcro to secure it.
This thread has been an awesome read. Thanks to everyone for making so much information available to your fellow DIYers.
My 27" iMac is on its way, and I have some quick questions:
1) I plan to RAID 0 a 2.5" SSD + rMBP blade. I have the 1TB HDD configuration. Will my (27") motherboard have the custom Apple connector for the blade SSD on the mobo? I've read conflicting information on this thread (perhaps the 27" and 21" models differ in this regard?). The below AT article from December states that the 1TB HDD configuration (21") is missing the connector (http://arstechnica.com/apple/2012/12/you-wont-be-adding-an-aftermarket-ssd-to-your-new-imac/).
2) I have 16GB of Corsair 1866MHz RAM that I purchased for a Dell mobile workstation that I returned. The iMac will only support 1600MHz RAM. I'm pretty sure that the iMac will just downclock my RAM to work at 1600MHz, but theoretically, are there *any* downsides to doing this (re: performance and/or stability)?
Last question: Are those of you who are purchasing (presumably used) rMBP blades on Ebay not concerned with the number of writes to the drive that would decrease the lifespan?
My 27" iMac is on its way, and I have some quick questions:
1) I plan to RAID 0 a 2.5" SSD + rMBP blade. I have the 1TB HDD configuration. Will my (27") motherboard have the custom Apple connector for the blade SSD on the mobo? I've read conflicting information on this thread (perhaps the 27" and 21" models differ in this regard?). The below AT article from December states that the 1TB HDD configuration (21") is missing the connector (http://arstechnica.com/apple/2012/12/you-wont-be-adding-an-aftermarket-ssd-to-your-new-imac/).
2) I have 16GB of Corsair 1866MHz RAM that I purchased for a Dell mobile workstation that I returned. The iMac will only support 1600MHz RAM. I'm pretty sure that the iMac will just downclock my RAM to work at 1600MHz, but theoretically, are there *any* downsides to doing this (re: performance and/or stability)?
Last question: Are those of you who are purchasing (presumably used) rMBP blades on Ebay not concerned with the number of writes to the drive that would decrease the lifespan?
Upon re-reading some of this thread, I think I answered my own question. Quoting R.OG who was commenting on his teardown pics on Page 2, "Looks like the base 27" has a socket for the blade SSDs."
Awesome. That should serve as ultimate confirmation. I think the other stuff I read was based on speculation and/or the early 21" teardown pics from iFixit.
Hah well that would work. I was looking for something a little more... screwy (so to speak).
Hi
Can someone tell me how difficult it is to replace the power button? (or has a detailed picture) My power button is a little bit stuck and I would like to fix or replace the button. Additionally I would like to add a 512GB SSD - does anyone know if the SSD only iMacs have HDD mounting brackets and cable inside?
Can someone tell me how difficult it is to replace the power button? (or has a detailed picture) My power button is a little bit stuck and I would like to fix or replace the button. Additionally I would like to add a 512GB SSD - does anyone know if the SSD only iMacs have HDD mounting brackets and cable inside?
That's the reason why I'm writing in this thread.
I have an iMac 27" (2012), 3.4GHz Core i7, 32GB RAM, GeForce GTX 680MX, 768GB SSD.
27" iMac - HDD replacement and logicboard removal guide.
Okay. I just went through the process of upgrading my iMac with an i7 and samsung 840 500GB SSD. Was a success on the first try!
Video guide on how to take logic board and hdd cradle off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1eHTbCyHes
After screwing in the logic board back to the chasis, I took a brief video (handheld! - sorry) which guides people on how to approach removing the logic board and HDD cradle. I apologize in advance if you find the quality of the video poor. I was not able to find a similar guide anywhere on the web.
Some notes after the upgrade:
- I used the $20 kit from the ebay (UK supplier). They should really bring the price down! But it works perfectly.
- Removing the processor was easy. Once removed, I used a kleenex to scoop the thermal compound (goop) and replaced with with arctic silver 3 compound. I also did this with the GPU, but not the power diodes for the GPU (they had slightly wetter white colored goop).
- Use the pin layout on the processor to figure out which orientation it goes in. The arrow on the processor point away from the ram slots.
- Be slow and methodical as the connectors are fragile
- In the video I may have mis-spoken or misidentified some components, but that's the way my brain identifies things (i know the iMac only has one fan!).
I went from the i5 3.2ghz ($1999 model) - purchased for $1850 on amazon! (third party seller who was selling a brand new unopened unit for a $150 discount) to:
- i7 3.4ghz (i7-3770 - DO NOT BUY THE i7-3770k)
- Samsung 840 500GB ssd ($280 from adorama, had a reward giftcard from a camera purchase so it cost me $152 net).
- 32GB crucial memory
I have a backpack (twelve south) which houses a 1tb wd hard drive which contains the huge photo and music libraries. I have time machine backing up to my pogo plug nas.
Okay. I just went through the process of upgrading my iMac with an i7 and samsung 840 500GB SSD. Was a success on the first try!
Video guide on how to take logic board and hdd cradle off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1eHTbCyHes
After screwing in the logic board back to the chasis, I took a brief video (handheld! - sorry) which guides people on how to approach removing the logic board and HDD cradle. I apologize in advance if you find the quality of the video poor. I was not able to find a similar guide anywhere on the web.
Some notes after the upgrade:
- I used the $20 kit from the ebay (UK supplier). They should really bring the price down! But it works perfectly.
- Removing the processor was easy. Once removed, I used a kleenex to scoop the thermal compound (goop) and replaced with with arctic silver 3 compound. I also did this with the GPU, but not the power diodes for the GPU (they had slightly wetter white colored goop).
- Use the pin layout on the processor to figure out which orientation it goes in. The arrow on the processor point away from the ram slots.
- Be slow and methodical as the connectors are fragile
- In the video I may have mis-spoken or misidentified some components, but that's the way my brain identifies things (i know the iMac only has one fan!).
I went from the i5 3.2ghz ($1999 model) - purchased for $1850 on amazon! (third party seller who was selling a brand new unopened unit for a $150 discount) to:
- i7 3.4ghz (i7-3770 - DO NOT BUY THE i7-3770k)
- Samsung 840 500GB ssd ($280 from adorama, had a reward giftcard from a camera purchase so it cost me $152 net).
- 32GB crucial memory
I have a backpack (twelve south) which houses a 1tb wd hard drive which contains the huge photo and music libraries. I have time machine backing up to my pogo plug nas.
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I have not seen any teardown of a SSD only iMac to verify this, but I would not expect Apple to include the hard disk SATA/Power cable or mounting brackets in this model given that it is not "user serviceable".
In the R.OG teardown thread, he showed the cable assembly that would be required and it consists of standard SATA data connectors at each end, but the Power part has a standard connector at the drive end, but is a inline pin-field on the computer end. I have been unable to find a source to purchase the cable, but I expect it to be available eventually.
SATA cable Part Number - 923-0312
-howard
Successful Surgery
I thought I'd throw my experiences in. I just opened up my 27" and installed my Samsung 840 Pro (which previously had been running in a USB 3 dock). Despite a couple hiccups, all went well and it was relatively painless.
Upon starting out, I discovered that the guitar picks I initially got were a bit thick for the task. I improvised with the edge of some plastic packaging, which was thin enough to get in, and after running it along for a while, the edge was loose enough to get the pick in, which properly separated the tape.
Despite the small size of the connectors, the two screen cables disconnect easily (and thankfully reconnect just as easily). Once the screen was free and clear, I got to work on the innards.
I loosened off the left speaker to access the hard drive caddy (you could probably access it directly, but one screw is pretty tough to get at). After extracting the drive and caddy, I realized that my 2.5" to 3.5" adapter bracket (which came with an old OCZ drive) was not going to work. For some reason the screw holes were tapped for typical 2.5" screws, not the ones that go with 3.5" drives, and thus couldn't take the screws from Apple's caddy. Even if they did fit, the adapter was only half-length, so would have been free on one end (perhaps not the end of the world, but not ideal either, I didn't want anything moving around should I ever have to transport my iMac).
After a bit of worrying over what to do (not wanting to test my luck and wait for a different bracket to arrive), I tried out some zip ties. They worked beautifully. I wrapped two around the width of the SSD, and it sit quite snugly up against one side of the caddy. I should have taken a picture of this, but was more concerned with closing up the patient and making sure everything worked.
After reassembling the speaker, I set about applying the tape. I ended up going with this 3M 4926 tape kit from DigiKey. It's five 4" x 1/2" strips of the 4926 tape that R.OG suggested earlier. It was the cheapest and most readily available option in Canada. I ended up cutting it in half length-wise, since 1/2" was definitely wider than needed. I applied 5 strips (two on the left side, one on the right, two on the top), which seemed to be perfectly sufficient.
Once the tape was applied to the machine, I attached the LCD connectors, but didn't put the glass on, in order to do a power up test. After everything looked good, I pulled the second side of the adhesive backing off and attached the screen.
I intentionally didn't apply any tape on the bottom, heeding R.OG's warning about making it hard to re-open (I noticed that even the bottom strip on Apple's tape caused some problems), but that did result in the bottom edge of the glass being recessed just a bit from the metal. You can only notice it running your finger along the bottom, or looking right down along the glass from the top. I think my glass is offset to the right by perhaps 0.1mm, not even enough to see, just enough to feel slightly on the left edge.
I'm not sure what the best way to go about re-attaching the screen is. I did it with the machine standing up, but it might have been better on its back.
All in all, it went pretty well, and it's great not having any spinning disks or external enclosures to deal with. Dealing with the adhesive would be nice to avoid, but I think it's preferable to worrying about dust under the glass like previous generations.
I thought I'd throw my experiences in. I just opened up my 27" and installed my Samsung 840 Pro (which previously had been running in a USB 3 dock). Despite a couple hiccups, all went well and it was relatively painless.
Upon starting out, I discovered that the guitar picks I initially got were a bit thick for the task. I improvised with the edge of some plastic packaging, which was thin enough to get in, and after running it along for a while, the edge was loose enough to get the pick in, which properly separated the tape.
Despite the small size of the connectors, the two screen cables disconnect easily (and thankfully reconnect just as easily). Once the screen was free and clear, I got to work on the innards.
I loosened off the left speaker to access the hard drive caddy (you could probably access it directly, but one screw is pretty tough to get at). After extracting the drive and caddy, I realized that my 2.5" to 3.5" adapter bracket (which came with an old OCZ drive) was not going to work. For some reason the screw holes were tapped for typical 2.5" screws, not the ones that go with 3.5" drives, and thus couldn't take the screws from Apple's caddy. Even if they did fit, the adapter was only half-length, so would have been free on one end (perhaps not the end of the world, but not ideal either, I didn't want anything moving around should I ever have to transport my iMac).
After a bit of worrying over what to do (not wanting to test my luck and wait for a different bracket to arrive), I tried out some zip ties. They worked beautifully. I wrapped two around the width of the SSD, and it sit quite snugly up against one side of the caddy. I should have taken a picture of this, but was more concerned with closing up the patient and making sure everything worked.
After reassembling the speaker, I set about applying the tape. I ended up going with this 3M 4926 tape kit from DigiKey. It's five 4" x 1/2" strips of the 4926 tape that R.OG suggested earlier. It was the cheapest and most readily available option in Canada. I ended up cutting it in half length-wise, since 1/2" was definitely wider than needed. I applied 5 strips (two on the left side, one on the right, two on the top), which seemed to be perfectly sufficient.
Once the tape was applied to the machine, I attached the LCD connectors, but didn't put the glass on, in order to do a power up test. After everything looked good, I pulled the second side of the adhesive backing off and attached the screen.
I intentionally didn't apply any tape on the bottom, heeding R.OG's warning about making it hard to re-open (I noticed that even the bottom strip on Apple's tape caused some problems), but that did result in the bottom edge of the glass being recessed just a bit from the metal. You can only notice it running your finger along the bottom, or looking right down along the glass from the top. I think my glass is offset to the right by perhaps 0.1mm, not even enough to see, just enough to feel slightly on the left edge.
I'm not sure what the best way to go about re-attaching the screen is. I did it with the machine standing up, but it might have been better on its back.
All in all, it went pretty well, and it's great not having any spinning disks or external enclosures to deal with. Dealing with the adhesive would be nice to avoid, but I think it's preferable to worrying about dust under the glass like previous generations.
AmanPatel and HunterMaximus, you guys are awesome. Thanks for the timely information update. I'll be doing my surgery soon, so the more info I read here, the better prepared I'll be.
Couple of questions that I never got answered from my earlier comment:
-any downsides to running 1866 RAM (performance or stability-wise)?
-256GB blades are scarce on Ebay (still slightly worried about buying used drives). Any other sources? I want rMBP, not OWC. IFIXIT is sold out ATM.
Couple of questions that I never got answered from my earlier comment:
-any downsides to running 1866 RAM (performance or stability-wise)?
-256GB blades are scarce on Ebay (still slightly worried about buying used drives). Any other sources? I want rMBP, not OWC. IFIXIT is sold out ATM.