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The Car Thread ... !
- Thread starter D.T.
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I'm wondering why I thought you had two cats and a dog... It's likely (it usually is) that I'm mixing you up for someone else.
So getting back to normalcy, that's a sweet Shelby build but that price is really high.
It looks like a typical suv.The Jalopnick article had a hysterical headline:
The 2019 Audi Q8 Boldly Shows Audi's Willingness To Make A Terrifyingly Ugly Car
The Jalopnick article had a hysterical headline:
The 2019 Audi Q8 Boldly Shows Audi's Willingness To Make A Terrifyingly Ugly Car
If the gray border around the grille was body color, it wouldn’t be so bad.
Clearly there's enough variation in design, and nuance with execution, that even within the same vehicle class, it's easy to see differences. Do the S2000 and Miata look the same?
Yeah, I don't mind the blacked out grill that much, but then they chose to leave those partial, horizontal "fangs" in the body color, they just kind of end, it's a weird visual flow (it's the same problem with some current Toyota/Lexus designs).
Even the new BMW above has a nice updated grill but keeps some traditional design elements like a complete horizontal front section.
Isn't the Audi a per-production concept vehicle and the BMW more close to production? I doubt Audi would use a plastic looking grill like that. Maybe a dark chromed plastic. The fake lower intake vents with the narrow slatting for the disc brakes looks chintzy on what I assume will be a 70K+ SUV.
They did such an amazing job with the front end of the A8, for example.
They did such an amazing job with the front end of the A8, for example.
The comment about a typical suv, was not meant to be a compliment for a car maker trying to set themselves apart from the every day product.Clearly there's enough variation in design, and nuance with execution, that even within the same vehicle class, it's easy to see differences. Do the S2000 and Miata look the same?
Yeah, I don't mind the blacked out grill that much, but then they chose to leave those partial, horizontal "fangs" in the body color, they just kind of end, it's a weird visual flow (it's the same problem with some current Toyota/Lexus designs).
Even the new BMW above has a nice updated grill but keeps some traditional design elements like a complete horizontal front section.
The comment about a typical suv, was not meant to be a compliment for a car maker trying to set themselves apart from the every day product.
I think you missed my point. There's of course some common design traits across vehicle classes, SUVs look like SUVs, small roadsters look like small roadsters, trucks look like trucks, sedans look like sedans - but there's enough design variation within a class that should allow for interesting discussion about the details of the execution, without simply dismissing a design as "Just another <insert_vehicle_class>", otherwise, why engage?
Don't ya think?
They're both production models. I have a feeling the car will look far better IRL, especially in a nice Audi metallic grey or blue.
I think you take car tinkering to the next level! An hour to strip an engine? Of course on a modern car it takes that long to take off all the covers to find the engine!
Just to get the head off
An engine pull takes ~3 hours.
BTW, the new head studs arrived today. I also checked the block and head for flatness(both in spec) so I will HOPEFULLY get it put back together and running this evening.
Somewhat related (Throw-back GT500):
This is a historic piece revived for the true GT500 enthusiast. Shelby is building _ten_Limited 1967 GT500 Supersnakes for $250,000 in P.A.
https://www.topgear.com/car-news/classic/shelby-building-ten-glorious-mustang-continuations?amp
http://www.shelby.com/Vehicles/50th67GT500SS.pdf
From article:
“Will be built to order from donor 1967 Mustangs in Pennsylvania, complete with factory VINs and original titles. The cars will be stripped down and rebuilt with new sheet metal, with a four-barrel Holley carburetor atop a 550-horsepower 427 big-block V-8. A Top Loader four-speed manual will sync with the locking differential, but a five-speed or even an automatic transmission are options”.
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Well hope it all goes well and solves the problem.Just to get the head off
An engine pull takes ~3 hours.
BTW, the new head studs arrived today. I also checked the block and head for flatness(both in spec) so I will HOPEFULLY get it put back together and running this evening.
It looks like the sort of weekend you'll want it on the road.
So, a minor MG update for today:
First of all, I took the head to the machine shop over in the physics department at work. At first I thought I was in deep trouble because it rocked on his ground-flat granite table. He suspected it was old head gasket material, though, and pulled out his straight edge. Fortunately, the worst we found would pass a 1 thou feeler gauge but not a 2 thou(the spec is 2 thou), so the head is good. I borrowed his straight edge and checked the block with similar results.
I did a bit of other clean-up work too. When the head was reworked, it was fitted with what are called "umbrella" oil seals on the valve stems. These are considered an improvement over the old O-ring type seals, and do a better job of keeping oil from leaking down the valve stems and into the combustion chamber.
I happened to notice that two of the seals had migrated up off the valve guide and were sitting way up on the valve stem.
Fortunately, it only took a bit of work to put them right.
When I got home, the ARP studs were waiting for me, so I'd hoped to get it finished tonight.
They were even nice enough to include an ARP "Advanced Racing Performance" sticker. I wonder how many horsepower that's good for
Unfortunately, I hit a bit of a road block. I have one stud that absolutely stuck in the block and won't budge. I got it nice and cherry red with my MAP/Oxy torch(a handy $60 Lowes investment) but it's still being stubborn-I hit it with PB blaster and will make another attempt tomorrow.
Also, one other thing. I mentioned "chasing" the threads earlier. This is mostly just a way to clean up and reform them-it's a good idea any time you're dealing with a fastener where the torque is critical, but also is good just as a general habit on this type of work.
Basically, you just use a tap that matches the threads already in the hole, and just turn it gently.
Here's a 5/16-16 tap going into the rocker pedestal stud holes
If you've ever tapped a hole, you have some reference for if something is "wrong" when you're doing this. I turned the tap wrench with one finger on the handle for the initial pass, and once I did the initial cleaning the tap would thread all the way into the hole by hand.
Contrast that to when(in another car project) I was tapping a 3/16 NPT hole in a 1/2" sheet of aluminum. Pipe threads are the worst to tap as they are tapered, but any hole that big(I used a 9/16" pilot drill) is going to be a pain. In that case, I had the workpiece clamped in a vice and was turning the tap with a crescent wrench. Normally, using anything other than a proper tap wrench is frowned upon, but in that case it was necessary(taps are harder than any known drill bit and consequently quite brittle), and too much side loading can break the tap. The big pipe tap was strong enough to handle side loading in this case. I also used a special high sulfur tap lube, and would only go 1/4 turn at a time before backing out to clean out the swarf. Even so, I still had sweat popping out of my forehead every time I turned it, and managed a good work-out from tapping the hole.
First of all, I took the head to the machine shop over in the physics department at work. At first I thought I was in deep trouble because it rocked on his ground-flat granite table. He suspected it was old head gasket material, though, and pulled out his straight edge. Fortunately, the worst we found would pass a 1 thou feeler gauge but not a 2 thou(the spec is 2 thou), so the head is good. I borrowed his straight edge and checked the block with similar results.
I did a bit of other clean-up work too. When the head was reworked, it was fitted with what are called "umbrella" oil seals on the valve stems. These are considered an improvement over the old O-ring type seals, and do a better job of keeping oil from leaking down the valve stems and into the combustion chamber.
I happened to notice that two of the seals had migrated up off the valve guide and were sitting way up on the valve stem.
Fortunately, it only took a bit of work to put them right.
When I got home, the ARP studs were waiting for me, so I'd hoped to get it finished tonight.
They were even nice enough to include an ARP "Advanced Racing Performance" sticker. I wonder how many horsepower that's good for
Unfortunately, I hit a bit of a road block. I have one stud that absolutely stuck in the block and won't budge. I got it nice and cherry red with my MAP/Oxy torch(a handy $60 Lowes investment) but it's still being stubborn-I hit it with PB blaster and will make another attempt tomorrow.
Also, one other thing. I mentioned "chasing" the threads earlier. This is mostly just a way to clean up and reform them-it's a good idea any time you're dealing with a fastener where the torque is critical, but also is good just as a general habit on this type of work.
Basically, you just use a tap that matches the threads already in the hole, and just turn it gently.
Here's a 5/16-16 tap going into the rocker pedestal stud holes
If you've ever tapped a hole, you have some reference for if something is "wrong" when you're doing this. I turned the tap wrench with one finger on the handle for the initial pass, and once I did the initial cleaning the tap would thread all the way into the hole by hand.
Contrast that to when(in another car project) I was tapping a 3/16 NPT hole in a 1/2" sheet of aluminum. Pipe threads are the worst to tap as they are tapered, but any hole that big(I used a 9/16" pilot drill) is going to be a pain. In that case, I had the workpiece clamped in a vice and was turning the tap with a crescent wrench. Normally, using anything other than a proper tap wrench is frowned upon, but in that case it was necessary(taps are harder than any known drill bit and consequently quite brittle), and too much side loading can break the tap. The big pipe tap was strong enough to handle side loading in this case. I also used a special high sulfur tap lube, and would only go 1/4 turn at a time before backing out to clean out the swarf. Even so, I still had sweat popping out of my forehead every time I turned it, and managed a good work-out from tapping the hole.
Gratuitous ‘under the hood’ shot just showing how clean this is. Looks like it’s right from the factory. Preparing for C&C, Meet&Greets and two car shows.
(Also, as someone else previously implied, for the S550 owner (s) with the hideous coolant expansion tank, Mishimoto makes a nice aftermarket set up to delete the stock off-colored bulbous tank.
)
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2019 Scat Pack Spy-shot leaked.
Seems like a rather minor update from the exterior, aside from the dual nostrils that are now embedded inside the grill for the air intake. It’s difficult to say, but the headlamps looks slightly re-designed or reduced. No much is else known about it, but in a way, I like that’s not completely “overhauled” and it’s more minor. I still think the Scat-Pack looks really good and it does have its core differences from the RT in terms of aesthetics and interior.
The Scat pack was the only other alternative I was considering before purchasing the SHO, and two things I like about Dodge is they always have some outstanding color options and even their stock wheels are a nice set up. Being I drive the RT model for work related purposes, I think the redundancy factor worked out for the best that I did not purchase it.
Seems like a rather minor update from the exterior, aside from the dual nostrils that are now embedded inside the grill for the air intake. It’s difficult to say, but the headlamps looks slightly re-designed or reduced. No much is else known about it, but in a way, I like that’s not completely “overhauled” and it’s more minor. I still think the Scat-Pack looks really good and it does have its core differences from the RT in terms of aesthetics and interior.
The Scat pack was the only other alternative I was considering before purchasing the SHO, and two things I like about Dodge is they always have some outstanding color options and even their stock wheels are a nice set up. Being I drive the RT model for work related purposes, I think the redundancy factor worked out for the best that I did not purchase it.
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991 Speedster Concept was just shown off. Will go into production soon!
https://presse.porsche.de/prod/pres...d=867681&pid=484F1A385DDB8D19C1257C3500196734
500hp 4.0 flat-6
9k RPM redline
Manual-only
https://presse.porsche.de/prod/pres...d=867681&pid=484F1A385DDB8D19C1257C3500196734
500hp 4.0 flat-6
9k RPM redline
Manual-only
Still looking for recommendations for moderately priced, but decent sheep skin seat covers, or good quality synthetic sheep skin covers, I'm not proud.
Still looking for recommendations for moderately priced, but decent sheep skin seat covers, or good quality synthetic sheep skin covers, I'm not proud.
My disclaimer is I don’t have any experience with sheep skin covers or the brand I listed below, but I did do some research from Amazon from various offerings and I found some sheepskin covers that are affordably priced with some outstanding reviews. Offered in four colors. Perhaps these might be of interest to you:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182QTSPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FA5gBb2Z5E0RP
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Thanks, I have looked at these. My only concern is that they fit a seat with an integrated headrest.
I bought some at a local auto supply store, but they are kind of rough looking, all matted and partially disclolored, which I’ll be returning. The issue with ordering something like this online is expense of return, although I could return for discoloration, but not for not liking them, at least I don’t think so.
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Price range?991 Speedster Concept was just shown off. Will go into production soon!
https://presse.porsche.de/prod/pres...d=867681&pid=484F1A385DDB8D19C1257C3500196734
500hp 4.0 flat-6
9k RPM redline
Manual-only
