Not quite. Plaid starts at $120K, Plaid+ (aka, Plaid Plus starts at $135K).
(Price shown is with "potential savings", incentives, gas savings, I quoted the pre-discounted prices)
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The Car Thread ... !
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Not quite. Plaid starts at $120K, Plaid+ (aka, Plaid Plus starts at $135K).
(Price shown is with "potential savings", incentives, gas savings, I quoted the pre-discounted prices)
not doing the burbs enables a tank of gas (Honda civic VX) to last not quite a month.
for a warmer climate a diesel is no big issue.
this spring i might sell off the garage queen (black on black honda s2000 ap1)
by the way...
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I guess what AFB wanted to express is, that depending on taxation, you need to do a certain amount of miles per year for a Diesel to be financially viable.
Agreed. The cost difference between Diesel and petrol isn’t what it once was. Also Diesel engines used to require more regular mileage for efficiency. They would be expected to last longer, but over the 5-8 years I own a car it’s not an issue for me.
Plus they are not good for the environment.
Red is for farm machinery here. No idea about military. But yes illegal here to.I recently owned a tractor and bought the blue colored diesel
red = military
its illegal to run either color in a street vehicle here but less or no tax on these colors
very few boats here; too far from water both vertically and horz.
Yeah, Volvos have a tendency of having nightmare accessory systems to deal with. IIRC the older 850’s had to have the entire front bumper/grille removed to change an alternator.
Those old 2.5T 5-cylinders were pretty much rock solid. My mom’s XC90 had the 2.5T- despite being pretty slow and you’d expect to be over stressed, she put 150k on it with zero significant engine issues. The biggest problem with the 1st gen XC90’s (besides the GM transmissions in the T6 models) was their suspension parts wearing out from their massive weight.
My parents are hesitant to buy another Volvo after the XC70 fiasco. But she owns an A4 Allroad after owning an original A6 Allroad, perhaps one of the worst Audis ever made in terms of reliability.
I think the A6 Allroad is definitely the wagon to have. It’s just hard to justify spending an extra $10-15k over the V90cc, which is close to another $10k over the V60cc.
That is illegal as well in most countries...
The days of diesel are numbered for most of the western world, only the latest EURO-6 compliant models are allowed in citi centres, new ones are banned from sale all together in 9 years from now...
For me it's the noise and dirty hands when filling it up; just too unrefined...
It really is unfortunate. In california I still can't buy a gas car that gets as good MPG as my 2015 diesel jetta. Knowing we're all looking for something "greener", adding lithium to my car only makes its carbon footprint larger.
I'd really love to see these car companies make great turbocharged cars that are 50-125HP. But americans are always looking at more horsepower, even if you're a grandma, for some reason...
I'd also love to see more alternate fuel choices. Seeing tesla lovers say it's no big deal to stop for 2 hours on a 400 mile trip is absurd, not to mention the fact that the more you use superchargers the more overall battery life you're shaving off your battery and ultimately gas vehicles can be well maintained for 100s of thousands of miles, making them greener still.
Also there's very little "harzardous" waste on a gas vehicle compared to enormous lithium batteries you have to throw out every 50-100k miles on hybrids and electric vehicles.
That is simply not true.
Plenty of them do...
No need to stop for 2 hours on a 400 mile trip, that is an absurd thing to say. And ahem, there is continual hazardous waste
Every single time you start your engine sadly...
A fun and quick little evening project:
When I did the 300 mile "shake down" of my car, I noticed an awful buzz that hadn't been there before, and I tracked it down to the gear stick vibrating.
I think I mentioned this upthread, but once home I pulled it all apart and found the anti-rattle bushing omitted. This is a brass spring loaded plunger that applies a bit of side tension on the gearstick just for this sort of thing. The bushing is $2 and the spring is $1 from Moss, but of course they charge a fortune to ship to I just started building an order for a one of these day projects.
A first class padded mailer full of parts that they charged me $16 to ship arrived today(to be fair, the order is split into two pieces, although I'm guessing the OD screen and speedo driven gear will also be in a small box), and in it were the needed parts.
Installation is relatively straight forward.
First of all, the shift knob gets removed. On these, you just loosen the jam nut, unscrew the knob, and then remove the jam nut. Also, I'll point out that when I put it back together last, I "flipped" the stick with the bend the wrong direction, so it looks like it's in gear when it's in neutral
Next, the gaiter comes off. The chrome trim ring is held on with 4 Posi-drive screws(note, they're not Phillips, and I'm actually not aware of any Phillips head screws that the factory fitted-Posi is a superior drive type for a lot of reasons).
Removing the gaiter shows the gearstick in the retaining plate. Note here that the gearstick is actually only tied to the car body by the rubber gaiter, and the retaining plate is attached directly to the transmission(or rather a remote control box on the transmission). I point this out since this is a common arrangement on manual transmissions, and one reason that the fancy Ferrari-type gaited shifters some folks want to fit to their cars often won't work correctly if mounted to the console. I'm digressing, though.
In any case, the retaining plate, as can be seen, is held down with 3 bolts and has an oblong hole in it. The hole, of course, allows easy front-to-back movement. The "hump" at the left is to allow access to the reverse gait. The plate MUST be installed in this orientation, or various ills can befall like being unable to engage reverse or popping out of gear.
These bolts are sort of "buried", so a nice long extension on the 1/2" 1/4" drive socket makes removing them handy
Once removed, another anti-vibration measure can be seen
The bolts holding the retaining plate on are shouldered, and the slack is taken up by a large spring washer called a "Thackery washer." This allows the retaining plate to "float" over the transmission remote control.
Of course, from there it just all pulls out. The nylon bushing seen here engages the remote control lever, yet another anti-vibration measure
While out, I decided that everything deserved a good clean-up. I didn't get too fancy here-basically I just soaked the retaining plate in Kerosene(always handy in the garage for a lot of reasons, and I have a lot of it now since that's how I'm heating the garage) then scrubbed it by hand with a brass brush. The gearstick just got a quick wipe down with kerosene. The nylon bushing is shown installed here-it just snaps onto the end of the stick(I normally leave it, but it popped off when I pulled the stick).
Of course, in all of this, it's a good idea to not lose sight of the original goal, which was getting the anti-rattle bushing in place. It's an easy install-just drop the spring and bushing in their respective hole, shown at about 5:00 in this photo
Probably the most difficult part for me always is reinstalling the gearstick. Basically, you just drop it in the hole and manipulate it around until it "catches" the control lever, while also being careful to not move it in such a way that you pop off the nylon bushing. Eventually, though, with some patience, it goes in. Some folks zip tie the bushing in place in this step, and that had been done to mine in the past(hence the zip tie in one of my earlier photos).
From there, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. There's one last key little thing, though.
As can be seen, the gaiter retaining screws are two different lengths.
Although it's of no great consequence, I actually should have three long screws and one short screw. The key in this is that a short screw MUST go in the forwardmost hole. A long screw in this position will contact the top of the transmission and-again-surprise-transmit vibration to the body of the car.
Once that's down, though, it's pinned up and ready to go. This was a nice satisfying job to finish in a few minutes before dinner
One last thing-as can be seen, the interior of the car was quite bright while I was working on it. I actually probably had more light than I needed. Because I'd only been out there a few minutes and it was below freezing outside, the garage was cold. Thank goodness for good old fashioned energy-wasting incandecents. I had two clamp lights, each with 100W bulbs, and then a cage light with a 72W halogen bulb. Those bulbs inside a car this size made it nice and comfortable.
I'll also mention that all three of the bulbs I mentioned here were bought just a few weeks ago and are fully "legal." In the US, halogen bulbs meet the energy efficiency standards(just barely) since a 100W-equivalent bulb uses 72W. My clamp lights have nice GE 100W rough service bulbs, which have a heavy duty filament that can take being knocked around a lot more than a typical incandescent bulb. These also have a teflon coating on the envelope so that if they break, they won't shatter. Rough service bulbs are currently specifically exempted from regulations, and the GE ones do live up to their name. I went through a box of the halogens before I bought these, as the halogens would go with the slightest knock(when on). These have taken some pretty good falls and keep on trucking.
When I did the 300 mile "shake down" of my car, I noticed an awful buzz that hadn't been there before, and I tracked it down to the gear stick vibrating.
I think I mentioned this upthread, but once home I pulled it all apart and found the anti-rattle bushing omitted. This is a brass spring loaded plunger that applies a bit of side tension on the gearstick just for this sort of thing. The bushing is $2 and the spring is $1 from Moss, but of course they charge a fortune to ship to I just started building an order for a one of these day projects.
A first class padded mailer full of parts that they charged me $16 to ship arrived today(to be fair, the order is split into two pieces, although I'm guessing the OD screen and speedo driven gear will also be in a small box), and in it were the needed parts.
Installation is relatively straight forward.
First of all, the shift knob gets removed. On these, you just loosen the jam nut, unscrew the knob, and then remove the jam nut. Also, I'll point out that when I put it back together last, I "flipped" the stick with the bend the wrong direction, so it looks like it's in gear when it's in neutral
Next, the gaiter comes off. The chrome trim ring is held on with 4 Posi-drive screws(note, they're not Phillips, and I'm actually not aware of any Phillips head screws that the factory fitted-Posi is a superior drive type for a lot of reasons).
Removing the gaiter shows the gearstick in the retaining plate. Note here that the gearstick is actually only tied to the car body by the rubber gaiter, and the retaining plate is attached directly to the transmission(or rather a remote control box on the transmission). I point this out since this is a common arrangement on manual transmissions, and one reason that the fancy Ferrari-type gaited shifters some folks want to fit to their cars often won't work correctly if mounted to the console. I'm digressing, though.
In any case, the retaining plate, as can be seen, is held down with 3 bolts and has an oblong hole in it. The hole, of course, allows easy front-to-back movement. The "hump" at the left is to allow access to the reverse gait. The plate MUST be installed in this orientation, or various ills can befall like being unable to engage reverse or popping out of gear.
These bolts are sort of "buried", so a nice long extension on the 1/2" 1/4" drive socket makes removing them handy
Once removed, another anti-vibration measure can be seen
The bolts holding the retaining plate on are shouldered, and the slack is taken up by a large spring washer called a "Thackery washer." This allows the retaining plate to "float" over the transmission remote control.
Of course, from there it just all pulls out. The nylon bushing seen here engages the remote control lever, yet another anti-vibration measure
While out, I decided that everything deserved a good clean-up. I didn't get too fancy here-basically I just soaked the retaining plate in Kerosene(always handy in the garage for a lot of reasons, and I have a lot of it now since that's how I'm heating the garage) then scrubbed it by hand with a brass brush. The gearstick just got a quick wipe down with kerosene. The nylon bushing is shown installed here-it just snaps onto the end of the stick(I normally leave it, but it popped off when I pulled the stick).
Of course, in all of this, it's a good idea to not lose sight of the original goal, which was getting the anti-rattle bushing in place. It's an easy install-just drop the spring and bushing in their respective hole, shown at about 5:00 in this photo
Probably the most difficult part for me always is reinstalling the gearstick. Basically, you just drop it in the hole and manipulate it around until it "catches" the control lever, while also being careful to not move it in such a way that you pop off the nylon bushing. Eventually, though, with some patience, it goes in. Some folks zip tie the bushing in place in this step, and that had been done to mine in the past(hence the zip tie in one of my earlier photos).
From there, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. There's one last key little thing, though.
As can be seen, the gaiter retaining screws are two different lengths.
Although it's of no great consequence, I actually should have three long screws and one short screw. The key in this is that a short screw MUST go in the forwardmost hole. A long screw in this position will contact the top of the transmission and-again-surprise-transmit vibration to the body of the car.
Once that's down, though, it's pinned up and ready to go. This was a nice satisfying job to finish in a few minutes before dinner
One last thing-as can be seen, the interior of the car was quite bright while I was working on it. I actually probably had more light than I needed. Because I'd only been out there a few minutes and it was below freezing outside, the garage was cold. Thank goodness for good old fashioned energy-wasting incandecents. I had two clamp lights, each with 100W bulbs, and then a cage light with a 72W halogen bulb. Those bulbs inside a car this size made it nice and comfortable.
I'll also mention that all three of the bulbs I mentioned here were bought just a few weeks ago and are fully "legal." In the US, halogen bulbs meet the energy efficiency standards(just barely) since a 100W-equivalent bulb uses 72W. My clamp lights have nice GE 100W rough service bulbs, which have a heavy duty filament that can take being knocked around a lot more than a typical incandescent bulb. These also have a teflon coating on the envelope so that if they break, they won't shatter. Rough service bulbs are currently specifically exempted from regulations, and the GE ones do live up to their name. I went through a box of the halogens before I bought these, as the halogens would go with the slightest knock(when on). These have taken some pretty good falls and keep on trucking.
Nice writeup @bunnspecial! It's quite satisfying if, for a change, you can finish some fault without two new ones popping up while doing it ?
Did you do a test-drive?
Did you do a test-drive?
They don't (assuming you mean government), and they don't need to. At least in Germany, tax for a Diesel car is roughly 2,3x the tax for petrol cars (comparing vehicles within the same emissions tier and displacement). On the other hand, Diesel fuel costs about 10-15% less than gas (the difference used to be bigger). So, given that Diesel cars normally use less fuel and the fuel is cheaper, eventually there comes a point where a Diesel car is overall more financially viable. But if you do only 10.000 - 15.000 km per year, it doesn't work out.
Red is for heating in Germany. Obviously it's illegal to use it in a car.
@bunnspecial Nice that you can do it all from above. I started the job on my daughters MK2 Golf but sadly you also have to get in from below and drop the exhaust to change ball. A right pain to do if you don't have a ramp/lift, so I had to take it somewhere. But changing all those parts and I also did the linkages to the box made the box feel like brand new and so precise.
And besides the tax, the narrowing gap of diesel fuel costs, there is also the increased initial capital outlaw, and the reduced gap in mileage between equivalent petrol and Diesel engines, and the ultra low emission zone charges, or outright ban and thus restrictions on where you can drive.
True, but in the main that seems to be a UK only thing and artificially created by successive governments.
I think I’m in love......😁 (Surprised quagmire didn’t post about this yet.)
GM announces the 2022 Cadillac CT-5 Blackwing [This is the last of the V8 ‘V’ Series before migrating to all EV.]
Breakdown:
- 6.2l Eaton Supercharged sedan (668HP/659TQ)
- Available in both 6 Speed manual &(Camaro gearbox)/10 speed auto.
- 15” rotors/6 piston Brembo brakes (4 piston for the rears.
- {0-60}–> 3.7s
- Standard 19” wheels (magnesium option to follow)
- ‘Track tested & equipped.’
- Starting price ~$84,990.
Fun facts:
“The equipped 10 speed can speeds reach over 200 MPH...”
“The CT5-V is the smallest supersedan compared with the M5, E63 S, and Charger SRT Hellcat....”
“There are three levels of interior options available on the Blackwing (base, mid-level and uplevel), and wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto capability is standard. Options include more aggressively bolstered carbon-fiber-backed seats and heated and ventilated seats with a massage function...”
My thoughts:
It’s not necessarily surprising a supercharged V-8 is the last of what we know as ‘muscle cars’, but it’s also kind of disappointing sedans have been and are a dying breed, that’s one of the reasons I have such a passion for sedans personally, I’m glad to see Cadillac put out something that doesn’t have to be a coupe to produce power, and that’s what I think I really love about this car, is it’s perfect for your every day commuter make it comfortable for everybody who rides along and then to feed your ‘wild side’, you can take it to the track. And for that, I thank GM for what an outstanding finale this vehicle is.
I’ve posted hundreds of vehicle reveals on this thread, but I honestly think this is the one car that impresses me the most, even though I do think the ‘price point’ is higher over the competition, and that would probably be the only downfall that might be a detraction.
GM announces the 2022 Cadillac CT-5 Blackwing [This is the last of the V8 ‘V’ Series before migrating to all EV.]
Breakdown:
- 6.2l Eaton Supercharged sedan (668HP/659TQ)
- Available in both 6 Speed manual &(Camaro gearbox)/10 speed auto.
- 15” rotors/6 piston Brembo brakes (4 piston for the rears.
- {0-60}–> 3.7s
- Standard 19” wheels (magnesium option to follow)
- ‘Track tested & equipped.’
- Starting price ~$84,990.
Fun facts:
“The equipped 10 speed can speeds reach over 200 MPH...”
“The CT5-V is the smallest supersedan compared with the M5, E63 S, and Charger SRT Hellcat....”
“There are three levels of interior options available on the Blackwing (base, mid-level and uplevel), and wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto capability is standard. Options include more aggressively bolstered carbon-fiber-backed seats and heated and ventilated seats with a massage function...”
2022 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing First Look Review: A 668-HP Monster
The 2022 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing comes packing a 668-hp and 659 pound-feet of torque evolution of the old CTS-V's supercharged 6.2-liter V-8.
www.motortrend.com
My thoughts:
It’s not necessarily surprising a supercharged V-8 is the last of what we know as ‘muscle cars’, but it’s also kind of disappointing sedans have been and are a dying breed, that’s one of the reasons I have such a passion for sedans personally, I’m glad to see Cadillac put out something that doesn’t have to be a coupe to produce power, and that’s what I think I really love about this car, is it’s perfect for your every day commuter make it comfortable for everybody who rides along and then to feed your ‘wild side’, you can take it to the track. And for that, I thank GM for what an outstanding finale this vehicle is.
I’ve posted hundreds of vehicle reveals on this thread, but I honestly think this is the one car that impresses me the most, even though I do think the ‘price point’ is higher over the competition, and that would probably be the only downfall that might be a detraction.