2030 as it stands on new cars here. That’s not long at all.
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The Car Thread ... !
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I do wonder if the government will offer a scrappage scheme like they did with old diesels a few years ago to try and help motorists afford the transition. I know there will be perhaps a decade beyond 2030 where people will still be driving around in petrol and diesel cars but with costs going to over £2.00 a litre now, maybe we will also see a reduction in the amount of filling stations for these fuels too by then? We need larger EV’s to be produced now as the market will need these vehicles to be depreciated enough by 2030, albeit older and inferior technology at that time.
That’s the issue though isn’t it. An old large ICE vehicle that’s done 100k. It’s a risk but one people feel able to take if that fits there needs.
But who would by a 10 year old similar EV? I’d not take the risk on either, but that’s just me. At some point people will have to.
But if your criteria is long range and large, it’s hard to see how EV’s will offer this to the second hand market in a long time.
I’ve had mine nearly a month now and haven’t even had a passenger it it yet.
In other news, having my Zappy charger installed today.
I haven't bought a vehicle in 5 years, and my first child is 8 months old... What is worse for the world, getting rid of cars every couple years, or keeping a full sized truck? I'm going to guess replacing cars like they are accessories.
How many young children do you have?
I'll take the pepsi challenge with my Ram in the snow/ice. Out performs my A4 quattro, and any other 4wd I've owned or driven.
What you are talking about are modern 1/2 ton trucks with crappy stock tires (because everyone leases) or you are thinking about older 1/2 ton solid axle leaf sprung trucks without traction control.
Tires are the biggest overlooked part of low traction driving.
Yes, fwd vehicles are capable, until the aren't and cause highway pileups in heavy snow. At least 1-2 x a year it happens in Long Island, where I'm forced to leave the LIE, use the access road (very hilly) and drive on the grass to go around these fwd vehicles causing major congestion.
I used to commute 40 miles east (each way), when there was heavy snow (10"+), there is just no way for the plows to keep up with the snow fall. It's either be prepared, or get stranded, then cause others to get stranded. One of the biggest things that pisses me off are fwd or rwd vehicles in the NE US driving in snowy conditions. They are a danger to everyone...
And before anyone asks, I work in hospitals, so I do not have the option of staying home, oh and there wasn't the option of mass transit to get to my last hospital. My current one yes, but the prices are more than it costs me to drive my DD (plus I bring my baby to daycare at my job). The trains are also recalled in heavy snow, but I still have to be at work.
Yes good tires play a huge part in traction in the snow.
But why is FWD vehicles good in the snow?
Why were RWD cars from the 60's and 70's bad in the snow?
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION.
FWD cars have the weight over the drive wheels. Those old RWD vehicles had no weight over the drive wheels. It's the same with trucks that have no cargo in the bed. There is no weight over the drive wheels. That is why trucks can be dangerous on snow/icy roads because they drive around with empty beds thus no weight over the drive wheels.
4th Gen Rams are about 54% front. You are thinking of 3/4 ton+ trucks, 2wd 1/2 ton trucks or older trucks from back in the day. Things are not the same anymore.
Plus, I am talking about 4wd tucks, which have traction in the front as well...
I have never put sand bags in my truck and have driven 40+ miles in snow/ice/flooding rain. Never once have it lost traction.
Doesn’t matter, if the rear loses traction you’re spinning out. You can hope the front is able to pull the rear back in, but if it is far too gone, bye bye.
Seen way too many people act too arrogant in 4WD vehicles. Seen Jeep’s drive by me going 70 MPH in crappy snowy roads.
People overestimate their vehicles capabilities because it is a Jeep or truck….
The other thing that comes into play is wheel base. This all applies to 4wd, but jeeps have a short wheel base which makes it more likely for the rear to come around. I have plenty of snow/ice/flooding rain experience.
No one is saying all drivers are experienced, or display good wisdom in bad conditions. If we take the driver out of the equation, and look specifically at capabilities, a modern 1/2 ton full sized pickup will out perform any fwd vehicle in rain/snow/ice in any metric other than fuel economy. This is a vehicle vs vehicle (apples to apples) comparison.
Here was my jeep I built before. I also never once lost control from sheets of ice all the way up to 28" of fresh unplowed snow. I went from factory rear limited slip to F&R lunchbox lockers, to F&R Detroit lockers to F&R ARB Lockers, all of which play a huge roll in control on a SWB wrangler.
I wouldn’t buy a car that old out of choice to be honest either, but I may be left without choice in 10 years time. There’s people in more extreme positions than me who don’t earn a decent wage. There’s people at my work who are on minimum wage and commute in cars that cost £500-£2k which are 20 years old. They couldn’t get to work without a car as our premises is in a remote location. They aren’t going to spend even £15k on a car, let alone the prices EV’s are now. I’m interested in how it’s all going to work out as it’s obviously got a plan behind it that we may not be aware of.
It does indeed sound bleak. I'd love to be wrong. But we all need to be careful about assuming these problems will be adequately solved. They might not be. The people running governments aren't the ones struggling to afford cars and fuel. But they certainly hear a lot from auto and fossil fuel lobbies.
There has to be a transition period, and it will inevitably be painful for the consumer. But well thought-out planning by governments to build EV infrastructure and encourage the production of more affordable and more capable EVs might help make it less painful.
My full-sized truck is 24 years old, so naturally I favor keeping vehicles rather than replacing them willy-nilly. I keep vehicles as long as possible. That doesn't mean there is never a valid reason to replace your vehicle before it is completely worn out.
Like I said, your 4WD doesn't matter when it comes to maneuvering and braking. It doesn't outperform anything with four wheels, because they are all connected to the ground in exactly the same way. Ride height is not particularly relevant on roads (sure, speed bumps etc. but we aren't talking Lamborghinis here). Trucks are light at the rear without extra weight in the back, which can cause traction issues in certain situations - not a fatal problem but an inherent compromise of this type of vehicle. All modern cars have stability and traction control, so I'm not trying to compare truck from the 90s with a new car.
Oh, and re: wheelbase, I do agree. My Fiesta's short wheelbase (and the fact the wheels are out near the corners) make it very maneuverable. There is a potential for liftoff oversteer, but it is mild and with the stability control you hardly ever notice it. Generally only an issue on 'hot hatches.'
I couldn't agree more. The difference in performance between all seasons and proper snow tires like Blizzaks is vast, it makes the car feel like an entirely different vehicle.
I categorically disagree. People not driving to the conditions causes those pileups regardless of what they're driving. Sure, trucks might be more capable in some of those situations, but not all of them.
I'm not trying to bash trucks or say they aren't capable. On the contrary, I'm sticking up for other types of cars, which are constantly being unfairly bashed as 'useless' or even 'dangerous'. That's hogwash.
I simply don't agree with you on your disdain for anything that isn't AWD/4WD as a winter driver. My community is full of people who drive clapped-out old 90s sedans to work every day in very snowy conditions. Or even old 2WD trucks. Sure, accidents happen, but I'm telling you again that new 4WD pickups are more likely to be in the ditch. When you're driving an old Taurus you are more careful and don't take risks, and you get there. Who passes me on a double yellow in the middle of a snowstorm? Not the taurus. It's the fellow in the brand-new Yukon Denali. Who I later see in the grocery store buying a pork loin and potatoes. Whew, it's lucky you've got 420 horses going to four wheels to haul that hunk of meat n spuds home!
The biggest factor, by far, is the driver. I'm not arguing against trucks here, I'm arguing for driving to the conditions. With snow tires, on roads, you'll be just fine 95% of the time without 4WD/AWD.
If you think you need a truck, by all means, have it, I'm not telling you you shouldn't. And yes, if you are a working in a critical infrastructure job, you have a case for having extra capability. If I was an EMT or volunteer firefighter or some such where I live, I would likely replace one of my hatchbacks with a larger vehicle with 4WD. And of course if I were a tradesman or a farmer I'd have one too. But the number of trucks driving around far outstrips the number of people who fall into those categories.
For most people, we know that 99% of the time they are just big, increasingly unaffordable lifestyle vehicles. Towing a couple jet skis doesn't constitute a need.
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Tomorrow is due to be the hottest day of the year. Glad I can have my i3 nice and cool when I leave for home tomorrow night. Definitely one of the features I enjoy!
Without a doubt. A few years back now, I was working on a project in Milton Keynes, which is well in the South of the UK. We had snap snowfall and it was sudden carnage as people had no experience of driving in snow. One of the guys I was working with was Scottish, and used to ‘real’ weather. We were sat in a queue at traffic light and the lead vehicle was just spinning their wheels when the lights went green. This happened for three cycles of lights then my friend jumped out of his car, went to the front vehicle said “get out, I’m Scottish!” and promptly got the guy out of the little rut he had made for himself so we could all get on our way.
This is also the reason Finland produces an unusually high number of rally drivers per capita…
So true. I remember one day at work it started snowing. Lots of hills where I lived. Got to this one big hill (duel carriage way) and everyone stopped at the top and was taking turns to s all the way down. No issues. Then sons idiot decided he didn’t need to wait in his Rav 4. Off he goes in the snow ends up mounting the central reservation.
Also a good set of the right tyres over a 4x4 is worth more in my opinion.
Yup, near where we used to live there was a corner in our road. Some numpty who believed the hype nearly went straight though a fence in their Audi Q7; as already said up-thread, 4WD / AWD might help you start in snow but makes no difference to your ability to turn or stop.
I’ve been an AWD fan for years; had them over two decades now. When we had a couple of years of bad snow in a row I invested in a second set of alloy wheels with winter tyres on them. That combo was amazing.
Can’t beat a good set of winter tyres. But we have little use for them in the U.K. most years unless you live in Scotland.
Just gave the i3 a good wash and dry. The dust we’ve had this last week followed by yesterday’s rain had taken the shine off somewhat. All good again now.
I work for a consultancy and used to be on-site all over the UK. But that hasn’t been the focus of my role for ten years now so when I did my most recent car change I sold my wheels and tyres on EBAY.
2012 Fiat 500- Update, swaybar is on backorder, otherwise…
This is not a bad story, and could apply to any vehicle.
The other day my Fiat started sluggishly. I drove away, came back, tried to leave again and the car would not start, and the battery would not turn the engine over. I charged it over night and in the morning, it did not have enough to turn the engine over, read about 11volts. Battery purchased 08/19, 3 year warranty, stinking hot Texas, returned it to the store and got a new one on the house, however as per store policy regarding warranty, the new battery’s warranty only goes through Oct. 😐
The car could use a new clamp on the ground cable so I purchased one. The positive and ground cables have ring attachment which are bolted to to their respective clamps. This clamp has 2 bolts attached so I hooked up the 2 ground cables, attached the new clamp, but the car barely turned over, not enough to start the car, and then went completely dead.
Ok, so I thought, something else is going on And came >< this close to calling a tow truck, but decided to investigate some more. I verified the battery had a normal charge about 12.58V, I checked a couple of fuses like the main fuse, and the ignition fuse, among others, nothing out of order. Then I broke out my electric meter, set the meter to volts, and instead of placing them on the battery posts, placed them on the exposed part of each Positive and Negative cable. The meter read about 1 volt. I also checked the continuity of the connection from battery post to battery cable, it read hardly, if any continuity.
A closer examination revealed that the 2 bolts of this clamp weren’t designed to connect anything to them directly. I made a bad assumption. The intent is to slip a bare wire under a plate and by tightening the bolts press the wire, via the bar against the clamp body, achieving an electrical connection between the wire and the clamp body. Probably if I had stuck a piece of cable wire under the plate to make a better connection between the plate and the body of the clamp, this would have worked, but not as intended. I was just surprised these bolts did not make an adequate electrical connection with the body of the clamp.
I had messed with this long enough so I used the old clamp which is still functional, hooked up the barttery, and I now have a car that will start.
I’ll look for a battery post clamp that is made to have cables with a ring attachment bolted to it.
This is not a bad story, and could apply to any vehicle.
The other day my Fiat started sluggishly. I drove away, came back, tried to leave again and the car would not start, and the battery would not turn the engine over. I charged it over night and in the morning, it did not have enough to turn the engine over, read about 11volts. Battery purchased 08/19, 3 year warranty, stinking hot Texas, returned it to the store and got a new one on the house, however as per store policy regarding warranty, the new battery’s warranty only goes through Oct. 😐
The car could use a new clamp on the ground cable so I purchased one. The positive and ground cables have ring attachment which are bolted to to their respective clamps. This clamp has 2 bolts attached so I hooked up the 2 ground cables, attached the new clamp, but the car barely turned over, not enough to start the car, and then went completely dead.
Ok, so I thought, something else is going on And came >< this close to calling a tow truck, but decided to investigate some more. I verified the battery had a normal charge about 12.58V, I checked a couple of fuses like the main fuse, and the ignition fuse, among others, nothing out of order. Then I broke out my electric meter, set the meter to volts, and instead of placing them on the battery posts, placed them on the exposed part of each Positive and Negative cable. The meter read about 1 volt. I also checked the continuity of the connection from battery post to battery cable, it read hardly, if any continuity.
A closer examination revealed that the 2 bolts of this clamp weren’t designed to connect anything to them directly. I made a bad assumption. The intent is to slip a bare wire under a plate and by tightening the bolts press the wire, via the bar against the clamp body, achieving an electrical connection between the wire and the clamp body. Probably if I had stuck a piece of cable wire under the plate to make a better connection between the plate and the body of the clamp, this would have worked, but not as intended. I was just surprised these bolts did not make an adequate electrical connection with the body of the clamp.
I had messed with this long enough so I used the old clamp which is still functional, hooked up the barttery, and I now have a car that will start.
I’ll look for a battery post clamp that is made to have cables with a ring attachment bolted to it.
New car arrived last Saturday, enjoying it while role playing as a discount Magnum P.I. ;-)
2022 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Skycruise Sport RF
2022 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Skycruise Sport RF
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My 66 coupe, base model i6 200. Not sure if I posted it before. I’m pleased how it’s come along, I’ve had to fix almost every part of this beast. But it’s been very reliable as a summer daily since I got it sorted. I’ve put on a lot of miles this year, including an 800km road trip.
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I almost clicked 'Report' for car porn.