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Yes I did. Standard is as fast as an AB LR.

I don't know much about the Highland Performance. With the pre-highland I thought standard was the same for all, and sport was just faster (either AB faster, or P faster).

I keep mine on Standard, and it jumps to sport (I have AB in both my TM3 and TMY) when you do 90% pedal and returns when you go <10% pedal. This is achieved using the S3XY commander (have one in both)
 
It's more satin than matte but basically the same. I went in thinking I would get the blue one but once I saw that "shooting star" finish, I couldn't turn away from it. I think it works well with the silver trim on the Limiteds.

I was a little worried about maintenance on it but I've read a lot of reports from people with it that it is pretty durable as long as you don't scratch it. Some people do a full hand-wash routine with foam cannons and special wiping techniques. Others just take it through any old automatic car wash. I'll probably do hand washed in the summer and touchless automatic washes in the winter.

Do you have a CC1 or NACS port?
 
It's more satin than matte but basically the same. I went in thinking I would get the blue one but once I saw that "shooting star" finish, I couldn't turn away from it. I think it works well with the silver trim on the Limiteds.

I was a little worried about maintenance on it but I've read a lot of reports from people with it that it is pretty durable as long as you don't scratch it. Some people do a full hand-wash routine with foam cannons and special wiping techniques. Others just take it through any old automatic car wash. I'll probably do hand washed in the summer and touchless automatic washes in the winter.
I've started using modern touchless automatic washes again. They are absolutely fine, no longer the nylon stiff bristles from the 1990s. Nor those scary drying machines that would rip your sharkfin antenna or spoilers or wingmirrors. I was very much so in the hand car wash team, but for now at our place in the Netherlands I can't wash it myself and started using an automatic carwash. Probably does a more gentle job than some washing by hand ;)

I love it how the Ionic 5 seems to have made a revival. It is a great car.
 
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Yeah I had the AWD LR model. Loved it but always had Performance model FOMO, so I "traded up". It is my daily driver.
I have a 23 LR so the previous generation. I think if I was to get a new one, I would still go with the LR. As much as I love the acceleration I find I rarely use it. It’s extremely fun but on the street I try to keep it within 10 mph of the speed limit. Most of the time I’m in chill mode and even then the full acceleration in chill mode is pretty good. I out accelerate most cars. If the performance didn’t have the range hit, then I probably go for it.
 
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I don't know much about the Highland Performance. With the pre-highland I thought standard was the same for all, and sport was just faster (either AB faster, or P faster).

I keep mine on Standard, and it jumps to sport (I have AB in both my TM3 and TMY) when you do 90% pedal and returns when you go <10% pedal. This is achieved using the S3XY commander (have one in both)
I have been thinking about getting one of those. Honestly only the battery preconditioning for max performance interests me. Even then I don't see myself using it a bunch. Does it have a way of showing you the battery temp?
 
I have a 23 LR so the previous generation. I think if I was to get a new one, I would still go with the LR. As much as I love the acceleration I find I rarely use it. It’s extremely fun but on the street I try to keep it within 10 mph of the speed limit. Most of the time I’m in chill mode and even then the full acceleration in chill mode is pretty good. I out accelerate most cars. If the performance didn’t have the range hit, then I probably go for it.
From TMC all of the range hit compared to the LR is the wheels/tires. If you get some 18's you basically would match the range.

I guess I am too lazy to try it out, haha.
 
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I have a 23 LR so the previous generation. I think if I was to get a new one, I would still go with the LR. As much as I love the acceleration I find I rarely use it. It’s extremely fun but on the street I try to keep it within 10 mph of the speed limit. Most of the time I’m in chill mode and even then the full acceleration in chill mode is pretty good. I out accelerate most cars. If the performance didn’t have the range hit, then I probably go for it.
I do like the improved look of the performance :) Range is sufficient in all versions for me.
 
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From TMC all of the range hit compared to the LR is the wheels/tires. If you get some 18's you basically would match the range.

I guess I am too lazy to try it out, haha.
I’ve heard that too. I know there’s a company that makes a 18” wheels for the performance, but I don’t think the standard 18” Tesla wheels will fit due to the larger discs.
I do like the improved look of the performance :) Range is sufficient in all versions for me.
it looks the same except for the spoiler, right? I never thought to see if it looks different
 
I have a 23 LR so the previous generation. I think if I was to get a new one, I would still go with the LR. As much as I love the acceleration I find I rarely use it. It’s extremely fun but on the street I try to keep it within 10 mph of the speed limit. Most of the time I’m in chill mode and even then the full acceleration in chill mode is pretty good. I out accelerate most cars. If the performance didn’t have the range hit, then I probably go for it.

All you likely would have to do is put the LR wheels/tires on the car and you would get the range back.

Early Model 3's had what was known as the stealth package. Motors, battery, etc of the Performance, but the range of the LR.
 
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I’ve heard that too. I know there’s a company that makes a 18” wheels for the performance, but I don’t think the standard 18” Tesla wheels will fit due to the larger discs.

it looks the same except for the spoiler, right? I never thought to see if it looks different
From what I can see:
- Different front splitter
- Different rear diffuser
- Different rear spoiler
- Different front seats
- Different active adaptive damping system
- Forged lightweight alloy wheels - impressively low weight for better unsprung weight 22.7/23.3 lbs vs 32 lbs for the uberturbines
- Bigger discs and calipers
- Carbon interior
- Car is lower

Yes, I think there are quite a few different visual clues with the Performance version.
 
Do you have a CC1 or NACS port?
It's the 2024 model so it's CSS1. The 2025s arriving now have NACS. They were not on the lot yet and the deals for 2024s were so good, I didn't resist.

I hope to get the NACS adaptor when Hyundai ships then in Q1, but most of my driving is local so NACS vs CSS1 isn't that important. The non-Tesla charging situation seems to be better than it was a year ago with more stations and better maintenance. If they could just keep scavengers from cutting the cables.
 
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Nice. Is it a 24 or 25? Drivetrain? Missing mine, still in the shop ;(
2024 Limited AWD

Is your's in the shop for a failed LCCU? That is a concerning issue. Seems to be endemic. My Volt needed a replacement BECM (battery controller?) during the Covid supply chain fun and games. I got lucky and only had to wait a week for the part.
 
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It's the 2024 model so it's CSS1. The 2025s arriving now have NACS. They were not on the lot yet and the deals for 2024s were so good, I didn't resist.

I hope to get the NACS adaptor when Hyundai ships then in Q1, but most of my driving is local so NACS vs CSS1 isn't that important. The non-Tesla charging situation seems to be better than it was a year ago with more stations and better maintenance. If they could just keep scavengers from cutting the cables.
Yea, I saw deals that offered $15k off!
Because of the 800V architecture charging if the Ioniq is limited to about 100kW for RWD and about 130kW for AWD at the supercharger, so much lower than the max of about 240kW possible, but so many more options when needed.
I have the Lectron Adapter, never used ;)
 
2024 Limited AWD

Is your's in the shop for a failed LCCU? That is a concerning issue. Seems to be endemic. My Volt needed a replacement BECM (battery controller?) during the Covid supply chain fun and games. I got lucky and only had to wait a week for the part.
No, got hit in parking lot, pics a few pages back.
There’s been a recall on the ICCU issue mid December, have that done and it should be fixed.
There’s been quite a few posts on the Hyundai forums about this issue, I have not not experienced it.
 
I have been thinking about getting one of those. Honestly only the battery preconditioning for max performance interests me. Even then I don't see myself using it a bunch. Does it have a way of showing you the battery temp?

I use my S3XY for rear fog activation (it exists but NA does not have the on/off switch), push button mirror anti-dazzle on/off (I have DARK tint, helps with parking), interior cabin lights (I have a 3-year-old, I use the lights a lot), auto switch between driving modes.

I don't use it, but a feature that a lot of people use, who do not have FSDs, auto reactivation of Autopilot. I have FSDs, so I let the car change lanes for me.

Reactivation of autopilot. If you use the indicator before you switch lanes, autopilot will release steering as you switch lanes, then on a preset amount of time after the cancelation of the indicator AP will auto resume.

I also have hold rear driver's side rear door handle open to unlock charging port. If you hold the driver's front door open it will pop the frunk.

In the app, you can see battery temp, you can even throw your phone on the dash and hit a setting and make it a heads-up display.

The app also has blind spot monitoring without the use of the indicator. You just need to get a phone mount.
 
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It's more satin than matte but basically the same. I went in thinking I would get the blue one but once I saw that "shooting star" finish, I couldn't turn away from it. I think it works well with the silver trim on the Limiteds.

I was a little worried about maintenance on it but I've read a lot of reports from people with it that it is pretty durable as long as you don't scratch it. Some people do a full hand-wash routine with foam cannons and special wiping techniques. Others just take it through any old automatic car wash. I'll probably do hand washed in the summer and touchless automatic washes in the winter.
I never touch automated car washes. Always hand wash at home using two buckets and my Karcher.
 
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I never touch automated car washes. Always hand wash at home using two buckets and my Karcher.
About 10 years or so ago mobile detailers started to work at my workplace, gotten quite accustomed to that. They do a good job, fair compensation and can’t beat the convenience

Edit: spelling
 
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About 10 years or so ago mobile retailers started to work at my workplace, gotten quite accustomed to that. They do a good job, fair compensation and can’t beat the convenience
Do you mean “detailers”? I have considered taking it to a detailer once in a while, but the idea of a mobile detailer does sound appealing, if I could trust them to do it right and not to add swirl marks.
 
Do you mean “detailers”? I have considered taking it to a detailer once in a while, but the idea of a mobile detailer does sound appealing, if I could trust them to do it right and not to add swirl marks.
oopsie, must have been the stupid spell checker ;)
Yes, of course detailer. My experience has been good thus far and I used several.
 
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Do you mean “detailers”? I have considered taking it to a detailer once in a while, but the idea of a mobile detailer does sound appealing, if I could trust them to do it right and not to add swirl marks.
Furthermore, the last one I used I "found" in my neighborhood when detailing a neighbor's car, so I talked to the neighbor first.
And then, tell them you expectations and pet peeve like eg swirl marks. Like my pet peeve is to not properly clean in the inside of the windows, esp windshield, I told him that and it was spotless
 
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All you likely would have to do is put the LR wheels/tires on the car and you would get the range back.
You’re probably right about this.

Early Model 3's had what was known as the stealth package. Motors, battery, etc of the Performance, but the range of the LR.
I wish they offered something like this today. They couldn’t put the exact same wheels, but since aftermarket companies can make 18” wheels that fit they should be able to have something. There’s probably not much demand for this. People that want the performance probably won’t give up handling in exchange for a little bit of range. If they had some option to pause tracking in Tesla insurance for even 10 minutes I might actually consider getting a performance model. Without that ability, the only thing I can do is straight line acceleration. Once you do it, you’ve done it. I guess I could do it again, but I can’t justify paying so much extra for just that though.
 
From what I can see:
- Different front splitter
- Different rear diffuser
- Different rear spoiler
- Different front seats
- Different active adaptive damping system
I like all of this stuff because it looks cool. I suspect the seats might be more comfortable. I suspect the ride is less comfortable just because it would be stiffer. I could be wrong on that one though.

- Forged lightweight alloy wheels - impressively low weight for better unsprung weight 22.7/23.3 lbs vs 32 lbs for the uberturbines
All this, and it makes the car more inefficient. It’s like there’s something they’re saying you can have fun or you can be really practical, but you can’t have both at the same time 😂

- Bigger discs and calipers
Yeah, and if you have Tesla insurance, you can’t use this feature unless you want to pay an extremely high insurance premium. I only can use regenerative braking. If I touch my brake pedal, it costs me money 😭🤣


- Carbon interior
- Car is lower

Yes, I think there are quite a few different visual clues with the Performance version.
I’m not crazy about carbon fiber, interior or anything. I know it’s been a thing for at least 20 years that I can remember, but I’ve never been fascinated by the look of it. The car being lower in theory should mean some improvement to efficiency. That would be interesting. I wonder if anyone’s tested a performance against a long range with different wheels.
 
I like all of this stuff because it looks cool. I suspect the seats might be more comfortable. I suspect the ride is less comfortable just because it would be stiffer. I could be wrong on that one though.
I haven't had the chance to driving it, the suspension adaptive suspension can absorb a lot. It is possible not to lose the comfort.
All this, and it makes the car more inefficient. It’s like there’s something they’re saying you can have fun or you can be really practical, but you can’t have both at the same time 😂
Well, or you can look at it from a different perspective and that is that unsprung weight is one of the best indicators for handling and performance. And if they didn't do that then just imagine what the figures would be.
Yeah, and if you have Tesla insurance, you can’t use this feature unless you want to pay an extremely high insurance premium. I only can use regenerative braking. If I touch my brake pedal, it costs me money 😭🤣
Aren't there other insurance companies? My daughter is in the age bracket where black box devices are often required, we tend to ignore those as it means I couldn't 😇 drive her car.
I’m not crazy about carbon fiber, interior or anything. I know it’s been a thing for at least 20 years that I can remember, but I’ve never been fascinated by the look of it. The car being lower in theory should mean some improvement to efficiency. That would be interesting. I wonder if anyone’s tested a performance against a long range with different wheels.
I think they've done it nice and subtly when looking online. Not like the AliExpress aftermarket kits :)

Out of interest why are you so focussed on improved efficiency? Even the base, small battery is sufficient for most. Do you expect to exceed the 50 mile difference every single day?
 
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I haven't had the chance to driving it, the suspension adaptive suspension can absorb a lot. It is possible not to lose the comfort.

Well, or you can look at it from a different perspective and that is that unsprung weight is one of the best indicators for handling and performance. And if they didn't do that then just imagine what the figures would be.
Maybe I will test drive one whenever I decide to upgrade my current model. I know they put quite a bit of effort into making it drive well


Aren't there other insurance companies? My daughter is in the age bracket where black box devices are often required, we tend to ignore those as it means I couldn't 😇 drive her car.
There are, but I really haven’t shopped around. Getting the Tesla insurance just seem to be the easiest at the time I bought it. I got one other quote and it was about 2 1/2 times the price, but I suspect if I shopped around, I can get something more reasonable.


I think they've done it nice and subtly when looking online. Not like the AliExpress aftermarket kits :)
Yeah, some of the aftermarket kits don’t look so good.


Out of interest why are you so focussed on improved efficiency? Even the base, small battery is sufficient for most. Do you expect to exceed the 50 mile difference every single day?
Honestly, I don’t know. I’ve always been interested in efficiency, but it’s not a necessity. No my daily travel is maybe 30-40 miles so well within the range of even a short range EV.
 
With 30-40 miles per day you have nothing to be concerned about. Almost any car on sale will be suitable. If you have fast (well as fast as AC can go) home charging, then you have the convenience of starting every single day with a fresh full battery. We charge ours (a Polestar, less efficient) to 90% and for 90% of all journeys we do that is more than plenty. Enjoy it.
 
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