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sorry i didn't respond faster but here are the results

No worries, thanks! That looks relatively fine. I got 274 points with 1366x768 resolution, so theres something clearly wrong with either the gpu or the motherboard :(

By the way, you can upgrade the CPU. The best is a 870s, its available now on eBay(it was really hard to find one a couple of months ago, i ordered directly from china on taobao...)
 
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So I have Catalina installed on my 2011 21.5" iMac now. To get the iMac to wake from sleep like in Mojave I had to use some (the HD3000Kext itself will cause a panic so its removed) to get the iMac to wake from sleep. I also now think my Kernel Panic issue earlier was from one of my SSD's because its not Panicking in Catalina.

We only need one kext from the ZIP "AppleIntelSNBGraphicsFB.kext" to allow our iMacs to wake from sleep, however My iMac will take about 40 seconds to boot with this kext installed. Still better than no sleep, will rebuild cache to see if this improves anything.
 

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Could someone help me with a BootRom from a 21.5" 2011 model.

 
No worries, thanks! That looks relatively fine. I got 274 points with 1366x768 resolution, so theres something clearly wrong with either the gpu or the motherboard :(

By the way, you can upgrade the CPU. The best is a 870s, its available now on eBay(it was really hard to find one a couple of months ago, i ordered directly from china on taobao...)

About CPU upgrade, that should be possible. I got some i5-760 here to test.

Does someone know if a i5-2500K will work on a 2011?

And about the score. I noticed the same strange behaviour on the 2011. The GTX765m, 770m and 780m are to closer to gether and not much difference from the original 6970M.
 
Yes, that is what i also thought. But were to get a BootRom file from and were do i have to edit the Serial number into it? And is it enough to just get a Bootrom and change the serial number? Can i use the Bootrom from a 27" model? As i own some 27" iMacs.
 
About CPU upgrade, that should be possible. I got some i5-760 here to test.

Does someone know if a i5-2500K will work on a 2011?

And about the score. I noticed the same strange behaviour on the 2011. The GTX765m, 770m and 780m are to closer to gether and not much difference from the original 6970M.

I put the i7-2600K on a 27 i5 2500S and works perfectly, I guess 2500K should run too
 
Can anyone please tell me which one should I buy?
iMac 2011 (27 inch).

please take a look at the first wikipost of this topic.
for example a GTX765M : Dell Alienware GTX765M 5YPW3 with vbios : 80.06.61.00.01
You will need specific Dell/Alienware versions, these cards will work with and withouth nicks efi bootrom patch.
So I have made 2 changes to the iMac and it's no longer Panicking. I went and found my old modded power management kexts and installed them, and unplugged my Optical drive (thermal sensor plugged in of course) and my W10 SSD. I'm more inclined to believe installing my old Power management kexts are allowing the iMac not to Kernel Panic. I will reattach my SSD's once my optical drive Caddy comes later.

Ok great, this kext mode only works for MacOS I presume.. ?
A fix like this dor bootcamp users is perhaps not possible ?
 
Hi,
I installed the K1100M (HP) with Dell Bios on an 2010 21.5" iMac and work perfectly. Does the fix for bootscreen also work on these Macs with K1100 M card?
 
Hi,
I installed the K1100M (HP) with Dell Bios on an 2010 21.5" iMac and work perfectly. Does the fix for bootscreen also work on these Macs with K1100 M card?

there is currently no EFI bootscreen mod available for the Quadro cards.
Currently only Nvidia GTX765/770/780m.

Perhaps someday there will be a EFI bootrom mod for these smaller Quadro cards, who knows..

Thx for Nick for providing this EFI bootrom mod ! ;)
 
Hey everyone, sorry to be a bother again, just wanted to ask. Where can I find a tutorial for hotwiring the backlight on a 27 inch imac (2011) I5-2500s- I installed a WX7100 in it, and am able to get it to boot into windows, ect. Works like a charm otherwise, I'm just looking to get the screen working now. And for some reason can't find a tutorial to save my life. I don't care for being able to adjust the brightness right now I just want the option to use the internal screen available.
 
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Hey everyone, sorry to be a bother again, just wanted to ask. Where can I find a tutorial for hotwiring the backlight on a 27 inch imac (2010) I5-760 - I installed a WX7100 in it, and am able to get it to boot into windows, ect. Works like a charm otherwise, I'm just looking to get the screen working now. And for some reason can't find a tutorial to save my life. I don't care for being able to adjust the brightness right now I just want the option to use the internal screen available.

Alright I think I got a mediocre drawing on how to hook up a dying light, did I do it right? the usb data on the ir board is almost certainly wrong but you should just have to test for ground and then go to the opposite side, according to a diagram it goes
USB -
USB +
5V
GND
It would probably be more easy to get ground from the ir plug but id rather not have the thin 3V line run alone. This SHOULD replace ir receiving functionality with a working backlight for amd/nvidia. I see the flickering issue but it looks like that only happens when changing the brightness, a small price to pay for salvation.

Let me know how this looks.View attachment 863311
Maybe if someone really wants they can use the board out of an old usb hub to keep ir and use the other ports for other fun internal things.
Here is an example post, you basically want to search for anything that has the word "dyinglight" in it. I'm also on the the fence about considering doing this to my 27" iMac. I kind of want to wait to see what happens with the 540m room that was discovered.
Well there are at least 4 versions of the Apple 6770 bios, and the Dell cards come with several different memory types, so a lot of variables. Glad to hear one combination worked in your 21”, they didn’t with the 27" 2011 iMac. There was nothing wrong with the card, the modified 1GB bios worked fine, except for BootCamp. Nice of that guy to send it to you, very generous… ; )

The RX580 is actually the easiest because the WX7100 card should already come with a working vbios, you just need to do the back-light mod. Not sure what’s happening with the DyingLight but in the mean time you can do a basic “hot-wire” mod instead, I think I posted about that before, to re-cap… You can do this with a single wire, but a safer method uses a PCIE power extension cable between the PSU and LCD “inverter” board.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-6-pin-PC...Video-Card-Power-Extension-Cable/352463698131
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pin-Male-...-Card-Power-Extension-Cable-20cm/201764196006
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Power/dp/B01DV1Z4EQ

You just cut the PWM wire on the extension (at the female/socket end) and feed ~3v into it to fire the back-light, you can tap 3.3v from the Bluetooth / SD reader cable, or just poke the wire into the right hole (!) on the back of the main PSU connector, & secure with a zip-tie. The PSU pin is SMB_SCL, not really a power rail, but it works.

Obviously all the usual health warnings apply, even when unplugged that power supply can give you a nasty jolt (take my word for it!) so don’t go poking anything on the back of the PSU PCB. Apple really should have insulated that, it’s almost as if they don’t want people opening these things… xD


The RX560 is a bit tricky, there are at least two versions of the WX4170 card, the one I found had a blank vbios chip that you can “blind flash” in windows using remote access (TeamViewer etc) or with a programmer clip. But, the version in most eBay listings are actually missing a vbios chip, so you would need to solder one on. You would then also need to do the back-light mod. There’s a small chance the WX4150 cards could work in a late 2009 iMac, it was actually detected in an early 2009 iMac (A1225) but couldn't output to its LVDS screen. They might also work in a 2009 Xserve?

The boot-screen mod is quite complicated, we can get to that later, but it basically involves injecting a few bits & bobs from newer iMac firmware into your bootrom (all original Apple code). I’ll try and put together a magic boot disk so you guys can update your bootrom easily. I'll post some proper photos of the back-light mod when I get time, and if the DyingLight has actually died a death we can look into some other options.

UPDATE: Bootrom + vbios files to enable boot-screen now attached.

I was hoping to make a boot disc to enable boot-screens on 560 / 580 cards, I did find a way to patch & write the bootrom through EFI shell using a tool called Chipsec, but it was complicated and ridiculously slow (about 3 hours to write the full bootrom!) so the much faster / safer option is just to use a hardware programmer instead. You can get a CH341A + Clip for $5 which you can also use to flash the video card bios, two birds one stone etc.

First dump the iMac bootrom (make a back-up copy!) then use UEFI Tool to inject the CoreEG2 & EDID Parser (DXE drivers from the iMac 17,1). Expand the first volume in the bios region, scroll down and insert both drivers at the end before the free space, then save the file. Flash the modded bootrom and the vbios for your card (patched with a GOP taken from the MBP 14,3) then do a NVRAM reset and you should see a boot-screen! 8)


Here are some example posts, you basically want to search for anything that has the word "dyinglight" in it. I'm also on the the fence about considering doing this to my 27" iMac. I kind of want to wait to see what happens with the 540m room that was discovered.
 
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Sorry again to be a bother. I just can't seems to find an exact exact answer on where to run 3.3v of power into. Knowing exactly which pin for a hotwire mod is actually very helpful. A little scared of messing up when doing it successfully could be just one pin away, you know? I included an image of the board is it possible someone can point out exactly where I'd need to run 3.3v into to get the desired effect? Maybe edit the photo in paint or something, and send it on back? I get that it goes in pin2 for pwm, but is it labelleed left to right or right to left? Also, if I'm just jumping off of the power connector then all I really need to do is just use on of the big pins in that rectangle and jump a wire between them for 3.3v. But which one exactly would be outputting that? **********************


EDIT:

Got it done, all up and running perfectly. Purrrrs like a kitten. Cheers everyone!

lcd panel exact help.png
 

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Hi all,

My 2010 27" iMac GPU died recently, after 9 years of service. Reading this forum thread has been extremely helpful in enabling me to upgrade my iMac to a GTX765M GPU. My iMac is now running the GTX765M GPU with macOS High Sierra 10.13.6, flashed with @Nick [D]vB's vBios! Still deliberating whether to proceed with the iMac BootRom change to get boot screen.

Great work @Nick [D]vB!! Do keep the goodies coming our way!

As reported by all who did the same upgrade, the backlight is now at 100% with no way of controlling it with macOS. There's report that the backlight could be controlled when running Linux on the iMac, so it appears to be a software issue. When I checked the list of .kexts that's loaded when my iMac booted up, it turns out that the "AppleBackLight.kext" was not loaded. Could it be as simple as fooling the .kext driver, by updating it's "Info.plist" file and get BackLight control back? I'm not too familiar with macOS' driver architecture to effectively test it at the moment. Would also try to avoid having to reinstall my iMac's OS without boot screen, if I happen to mess it up.

Failing to get the built-in macOS driver to load, is there any possibility to harvest the Linux driver codes and build a kernel extension for our iMacs?

Would love to have folks with macOS kernel extension development experience to chime in here.

I would very much like to have BackLight control back as my iMac is used in a rather hot climate and it's heating up fast with 100% backlight on.

Thanks again to @Nick [D]vB!
 
Hi all,

My 2010 27" iMac GPU died recently, after 9 years of service. Reading this forum thread has been extremely helpful in enabling me to upgrade my iMac to a GTX765M GPU. My iMac is now running the GTX765M GPU with macOS High Sierra 10.13.6, flashed with @Nick [D]vB's vBios! Still deliberating whether to proceed with the iMac BootRom change to get boot screen.

Great work @Nick [D]vB!! Do keep the goodies coming our way!

As reported by all who did the same upgrade, the backlight is now at 100% with no way of controlling it with macOS. There's report that the backlight could be controlled when running Linux on the iMac, so it appears to be a software issue. When I checked the list of .kexts that's loaded when my iMac booted up, it turns out that the "AppleBackLight.kext" was not loaded. Could it be as simple as fooling the .kext driver, by updating it's "Info.plist" file and get BackLight control back? I'm not too familiar with macOS' driver architecture to effectively test it at the moment. Would also try to avoid having to reinstall my iMac's OS without boot screen, if I happen to mess it up.

Failing to get the built-in macOS driver to load, is there any possibility to harvest the Linux driver codes and build a kernel extension for our iMacs?

Would love to have folks with macOS kernel extension development experience to chime in here.

I would very much like to have BackLight control back as my iMac is used in a rather hot climate and it's heating up fast with 100% backlight on.

Thanks again to @Nick [D]vB!

A backlight control could perhaps be made possible someday, thx to the recent nvidia prototype which has been dumped here from user duvelhedz.
I think backlight control has to bee made possible trough a new vbios, but of course i'm no expert on this.. ;)

Anyway, good to read another iMac has been saved from the death.. :p
with the bootrom mod from Nick, which is not that difficault
will give you the option with ease to install mojave/catalina with dosdude1 patcher.. ;)
remember to disable legacy video patcher for your 2010 iMac !

Anyway, doing the bootrom patch from Nick is highly reccomended !

Apps like Brightness Slider could be your saver here for the moment :
 
Sorry again to be a bother. I just can't seems to find an exact exact answer on where to run 3.3v of power into. Knowing exactly which pin for a hotwire mod is actually very helpful. A little scared of messing up when doing it successfully could be just one pin away, you know? I included an image of the board is it possible someone can point out exactly where I'd need to run 3.3v into to get the desired effect? Maybe edit the photo in paint or something, and send it on back? I get that it goes in pin2 for pwm, but is it labelleed left to right or right to left? Also, if I'm just jumping off of the power connector then all I really need to do is just use on of the big pins in that rectangle and jump a wire between them for 3.3v. But which one exactly would be outputting that? **********************

EDIT:

Got it done, all up and running perfectly. Purrrrs like a kitten. Cheers everyone!

View attachment 869070
Glad to see you got it working in the end.
I have edited your photo in paint anyway,
just for fun, and the avoidance of doubt! ;)

PWM LOL.png


You were right to be cautious, the middle two pins carry 12v and connecting to those would probably kill your logic-board! This is why I suggest using a PCIE extension; then you just cut the PWM wire shown in the “PWM-2” photo and connect it to the bright green 3.3v SD reader wire (or a DyingLight etc). There are other ways to hot-wire it, from the PSU, or maybe just use a paper-clip to connect the PWM & BL_EN (BLON) pins in the plug, but you can’t use that small CN2 connector because of those missing resistors (R75 / R76).

Anyway, it would be great to see some benchmarks, you could also do the bootrom mod to get the bootscreen / boot-picker etc, but that is completely optional - maybe quit whilst you’re ahead! I’ve just had a small disaster myself; I was doing some electrical tests and badly damaged the MXM slot on my logic-board, which is very difficult to repair, so I just had to buy another logic board. :(
So I have Catalina installed on my 2011 21.5" iMac now. To get the iMac to wake from sleep like in Mojave I had to use some (the HD3000Kext itself will cause a panic so its removed) to get the iMac to wake from sleep. I also now think my Kernel Panic issue earlier was from one of my SSD's because its not Panicking in Catalina.
So no issues in Catalina running 3D benchmarks etc? I’d be surprised if the KP problem was my vBIOS, that windows BSOD was probably a red herring, it’s a common bug in the newer drivers and I’ve seen it with stock vBIOS before on my 27”. You can set the power states in windows using the Nvidia control panel / inspector, but those power kexts could still be very useful in MacOS.

I’ve been doing some tests on the prototype with duvelhedz and it looks like enabling brightness control is going to be much more difficult than I’d thought, not giving-up on it yet though. I’ve also got some Quadro K1100M & K2000M cards coming but won’t be able to test them until my new logic-board arrives, and I’m going to be away until the end of the week anyway. It shouldn’t take too long to get their boot-screen working, if my luck changes…
 

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Glad to see you got it working in the end.
I have edited your photo in paint anyway,
just for fun, and the avoidance of doubt! ;)

View attachment 869295

You were right to be cautious, the middle two pins carry 12v and connecting to those would probably kill your logic-board! This is why I suggest using a PCIE extension; then you just cut the PWM wire shown in the “PWM-2” photo and connect it to the bright green 3.3v SD reader wire (or a DyingLight etc). There are other ways to hot-wire it, from the PSU, or maybe just use a paper-clip to connect the PWM & BL_EN (BLON) pins in the plug, but you can’t use that small CN2 connector because of those missing resistors (R75 / R76).

Anyway, it would be great to see some benchmarks, you could also do the bootrom mod to get the bootscreen / boot-picker etc, but that is completely optional - maybe quit whilst you’re ahead! I’ve just had a small disaster myself; I was doing some electrical tests and badly damaged the MXM slot on my logic-board, which is very difficult to repair, so I just had to buy another logic board. :(

So no issues in Catalina running 3D benchmarks etc? I’d be surprised if the KP problem was my vBIOS, that windows BSOD was probably a red herring, it’s a common bug in the newer drivers and I’ve seen it with stock vBIOS before on my 27”. You can set the power states in windows using the Nvidia control panel / inspector, but those power kexts could still be very useful in MacOS.

I’ve been doing some tests on the prototype with duvelhedz and it looks like enabling brightness control is going to be much more difficult than I’d thought, not giving-up on it yet though. I’ve also got some Quadro K1100M & K2000M cards coming but won’t be able to test them until my new logic-board arrives, and I’m going to be away until the end of the week anyway. It shouldn’t take too long to get their boot-screen working, if my luck changes…

I'm beginning to think my issue is either APFS related or a bad SSD. As stated the iMac would always panic while creating a user account. After completely wiping the SSD and pulling it from the iMac and doing a firmware update it's no longer panicking. There are so many variables at play here, and most of the time my panics only state on CPU 0 with no backtrace.

Since doing this my iMac hasn't panicked, I'd also like to add my Catalina install is also on another SSD in the iMac, I have 3 SSD's in this iMac.
That's great that you have bought a k2000m and k1100m cards, take your time no rush we're all rooting for you. I bought the dyinglight module and cables to do my 27" iMac the next time I have it apart, will also do the boot rom modifications.

Eventually If a wx7100 goes for sale in the USA I will probably buy one for my 27" iMac.
 
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Sorry again to be a bother. I just can't seems to find an exact exact answer on where to run 3.3v of power into. Knowing exactly which pin for a hotwire mod is actually very helpful. A little scared of messing up when doing it successfully could be just one pin away, you know? I included an image of the board is it possible someone can point out exactly where I'd need to run 3.3v into to get the desired effect? Maybe edit the photo in paint or something, and send it on back? I get that it goes in pin2 for pwm, but is it labelleed left to right or right to left? Also, if I'm just jumping off of the power connector then all I really need to do is just use on of the big pins in that rectangle and jump a wire between them for 3.3v. But which one exactly would be outputting that? **********************


EDIT:

Got it done, all up and running perfectly. Purrrrs like a kitten. Cheers everyone!

View attachment 869070
Awesome, I wonder how's it performs with the "RX 580" and a first gen Core i CPU? Wouldn't it get bottlenecked quite a bit? Also I hope you made your backlight mod reverseable in case someone does get brightness control working.
 
Awesome, I wonder how's it performs with the "RX 580" and a first gen Core i CPU? Wouldn't it get bottlenecked quite a bit? Also I hope you made your backlight mod reverseable in case someone does get brightness control working.
Perfectly reversible, I'm quite the handy little solder goblin when I need to be, so I'm used to working on stuff like this. For now I'm experiancing an interesting issue with the wx7100 where the core clock and memory clock are both locked at 300mhz, rather than the 1280 they're supposed to be boosting to and running at. Benchmarks reflect this reading too, HWmonitor, ect. all confirm it. Not sure how to move forward from here, did a clean install of windows, ect. Been working at it, but so far even after a clean install I'm still getting the problem. No benchmarks yet. Thoughts?

(ALSO, very sorry I actually have a 2011 i5-2500s 27 inch imac 12,2. Mis identified last time by mistake. Apologies.)
 
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Hi All,

First of all, I would like to thank everyone here for taking their time and selflessly sharing with the community. I have been following this topic on and off from the very start and when I got back after a longer break (somewhat inspired by Catalina’s release) I jumped in and realised significant progress has been made, mostly thanks to Nick [D]vB and dosdude1, but as well thanks to all other people actively participating in the forum. Over the last week, it took me many, many, many, did I say many, hours to read and to find answers to all the questions that I had on the topic. After all, I have just one iMac and one attempt at this, so I don't want to screw something up. I have previously already upgraded the CPU to i7 - 2600 and put in 3 SSDs, as well as 16GB RAM, so I am a newbie with the GPU but not a complete one considering the iMac.

Where am I now? Well, I ordered GTX 780M and Hardware programmer with SOIC 8 clip, as well as thermal paste. I am currently waiting for delivery, which will take another couple of weeks I presume (maybe a month). While waiting I was eager to understand as much as possible before I actually start with the upgrade, so I documented my personal thinking process a.k.a. Q&A a.k.a. my personal step by step guide with the process. Warning!!! Very simplistic answers and logic coming (written at the level of my understanding).
  1. I want to prolong the life of my 2011 iMac 27”, and I want Catalina on it. Can I do it? - Yes (Original post has details on this #0001)
  2. What do I need for that? - Compatible Graphics card and dosdude1 patch
  3. What graphic card is compatible? - Nvidia GTX series (GTX 765M, 770M or 780M - preferably from Dell Alienware) or AMD (RX580) (Original post #0001)
  4. What else do I need? - Thermal paste to make sure heatsink sits on the Graphic card chips (vram and power capacitors on the MXM video card) (Original post #0001). A recommendation is to use K5 Pro and 0.3mm copper heatsink plates (example) (thanks FlorisVN). How-to Video.
  5. Will any new graphic card fit on the heatsink? - No - it might require slight modification (i.e. filing in some places) (Original post #0001)
  6. What is an advantage of Nvidia over AMD? - Nvidia requires no backlight hack but is less future proof, AMD requires backlight hack but has more future potential.
  7. What is backlight hack? - In order for the backlight to work with the AMD card, you will need to hotwire 3,3V between the PSU and LCD, without the backlight, you will see black LCD. (Nick’s post #2233)
  8. OK, I decided that hot wiring is big risk for me so I will go with the GTX option. Will I lose some functionality with GTX? - With just the graphics card you will lose the brightness control of the LCD, resolvable by the backlight hack (Nick’s post #2233) or by a software - Brightness Slider (not ideal but serves the purpose).
  9. OK, I can accept the software solution. Is it just that? - No, you will also lose the boot screen too.
  10. Oh my, what do I need the boot screen for? - The boot screen is required if you want to install a fresh OS or install Catalina using dosdude1 patch, which you wanted to do in the first place. Or simply if you want to enter Boot options for various troubleshooting purposes.
  11. Is there a way around that? - Yes. 2 ways. Accept to go on without the boot screen, and install Catalina before you insert the new graphic card and second is to modify and flash the bootrom chip on your logic board. (thanks FlorisVN for correcting me here)
  12. I think I need the boot screen, so can I use generic bootrom modification uploaded by someone? - No - it has to be machine specific.
  13. How can I make it specific? - First dump the original bootrom from your iMac’s logic board (chip marked U160 near the Wireless card connector) - 8 leg chip (Nick’s post #2233)
  14. What is dumping? - Save the configuration of your bootrom using the Rom Tool from dosdude1 (http://dosdude1.com/apps/) - zip file password rom
  15. What’s next? - Once the dump is saved (make sure it is saved correctly and safely back it up), you should use UEFI tool to modify it based on the instruction on the video here, using the modifications done by Nick in his post #2616.
  16. Yay, I think I am ready to flash stuff… Can I flash vbios or bootrom from VMWare? - No - the vbios can be flashed from Windows or Linux using nvflash, but the Operating System has to be installed on a physical disk. With Linux you can also use live Linux cd, ran nvflash from there, on an external monitor) (posts #2562, #2563) External monitor output usually works, under Windows/MacOS and Linux…
  17. Can I flash the vbios in another way? Yes - you can flash using another computer (MacBook or Raspberry Pi) and a Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip (example) with the modifications done by Nick in his post #2616
  18. What about bootrom, can I flash it from the iMac MacOS directly? - No - has to be done by using the Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip and another computer (MacBook or Raspberry Pi).
  19. What to do if I mess something up with the bootrom flash? - Flash the bootrom back to the original one using the Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip and another computer.
  20. OK, so I have everything now, how do I flash? - Follow Nick’s guide from his post #2233, make sure the flash write is a successful one.

So... This is how far I got until now… I still have about 15 pages to read, but can someone please confirm my understanding so far as I want to be sure I have not derailed somewhere along the way. After all, there are too many pages to read and the logic is not always easy to follow.

Many thanks to all here... I can't wait to attempt the upgrade myself.
 
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Hi All,

First of all, I would like to thank everyone here for taking their time and selflessly sharing with the community. I have been following this topic on and off from the very start and when I got back after a longer break (somewhat inspired by Catalina’s release) I jumped in and realised significant progress has been made, mostly thanks to Nick [D]vB and dosdude1, but as well thanks to all other people actively participating in the forum. Over the last week, it took me many, many, many, did I say many, hours to read and to find answers to all the questions that I had on the topic. After all, I have just one iMac and one attempt at this, so I don't want to screw something up. I have previously already upgraded the CPU to i7 - 2600 and put in 3 SSDs, as well as 16GB RAM, so I am a newbie with the GPU but not a complete one considering the iMac.

Where am I now? Well, I ordered GTX 780M and Hardware programmer with SOIC 8 clip, as well as thermal paste. I am currently waiting for delivery, which will take another couple of weeks I presume (maybe a month). While waiting I was eager to understand as much as possible before I actually start with the upgrade, so I documented my personal thinking process a.k.a. Q&A a.k.a. my personal step by step guide with the process. Warning!!! Very simplistic answers and logic coming (written at the level of my understanding).
  1. I want to prolong the life of my 2011 iMac 27”, and I want Catalina on it. Can I do it? - Yes (Original post has details on this #0001)
  2. What do I need for that? - Compatible Graphics card and dosdude1 patch
  3. What graphic card is compatible? - Nvidia GTX series (GTX 765M, 770M or 780M - preferably from Dell Alienware) or AMD (RX580) (Original post #0001)
  4. What else do I need? - Thermal paste or thermal pads to make sure heatsink sits on the Graphic card chips (Original post #0001)
  5. What is an advantage of Nvidia over AMD? - Nvidia requires no backlight hack but is less future proof, AMD requires backlight hack but has more future potential.
  6. What is backlight hack? - In order for the backlight to work with the AMD card, you will need to hotwire 3,3V between the PSU and LCD, without the backlight, you will see black LCD. (Nick’s post #2233)
  7. OK, I decided that hot wiring is big risk for me so I will go with the GTX option. Will I lose some functionality with GTX? - With just the graphics card you will lose the brightness control of the LCD, resolvable by the backlight hack (Nick’s post #2233) or by a software - Brightness Slider (not ideal but serves the purpose).
  8. OK, I can accept the software solution. Is it just that? - No, you will also lose the boot screen too.
  9. Oh my, what do I need the boot screen for? - The boot screen is required if you want to install a fresh OS or install Catalina using dosdude1 patch, which you wanted to do in the first place. Or simply if you want to enter Boot options for various troubleshooting purposes.
  10. Is there a way around that? - Yes. 2 ways. Accept to go on without the boot screen, and install Catalina before you insert the new graphic card, or install it as a second OS where you will use target Disk Mode before reboot) and second is to modify and flash the bootrom chip on your logic board.
  11. I think I need the boot screen, so can I use generic bootrom modification uploaded by someone? - No - it has to be machine specific.
  12. How can I make it specific? - First dump the original bootrom from your iMac’s logic board (chip marked U160 near the Wireless card connector) - 8 leg chip (Nick’s post #2233)
  13. What is dumping? - Save the configuration of your bootrom using the Rom Tool from dosdude1 (http://dosdude1.com/apps/) - zip file password rom
  14. What’s next? Once the dump is saved (make sure it is saved correctly and safely back it up) you should use UEFI tool to modify it based on the instruction on the video here, using the modifications done by Nick in his post #2616
  15. Yay, I think I am ready to flash stuff… Can I flash vbios or bootrom from VMWare? - No - the vbios can be flashed from Windows or Linux using nvflash, but the Operating System has to be installed on a physical disk. With Linux you can also use live Linux cd, ran nvflash from there, on an external monitor) (posts #2562, #2563) External monitor output usually works, under Windows/MacOS and Linux… Or you can flash using another computer (MacBook or Raspberry Pi) and a Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip (example).
  16. What about bootrom, can I flash it from the iMac MacOS directly? - No - has to be done by using the Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip and another computer (MacBook or Raspberry Pi).
  17. What to do if I mess something up with the bootrom flash? - Flash the bootrom back to the original one using the Hardware Programmer CH341A with a SOIC 8 clip and another computer.
  18. OK, so I have everything now, how do I flash? - Follow Nick’s guide from his post #2233, make sure the flash write is a successful one.

So this far I got until now… I still have about 15 pages to read, but can someone please confirm my understanding so far as I want to be sure I have not derailed somewhere along the way. After all, there are too many pages to read and the logic is not always easy to follow.

Many thanks too all here... I can't wait to attempt the upgrade myself.

Great list, could help people out :) ;)

I would like to mention, keep in mind you also need to Modify your GPU heatsink to use it with nvidia cards, Im not entirtly sure if this is also for AMD cards,but I think it is.
And I would also highly reccomend you use K5 Pro, special thermal pasta for the vram and power capacitors on the MXM video card.
This k5 stuff looks the same like the original stuff apple puts on their cards, it cools the best for these area's.
Just dont use thermal pads in my opinion..

See video bellow as an example of this special stuff.

Also I would highly reccomend you put some 3mm copper chimes on the backside vram chips, with 3M thermal tape.

Also keep in mind, target disk mode is not working withouth an EFI bootscreen mod.
I however never got it working, it worked fine with the EFI bootrom mod from Nick [D]vB ;)
Also keep in mind you not only need to flash/modify your imacs bootrom, but also the vbios of your new graphics card.
All provided by Nick [D]vB ;)

[automerge]1571153447[/automerge]
can i use an external monitor to view the boot screen or does that also not work

you mean with the EFI bootrom mod from Nick [D]vB ?
 
Great list, could help people out :) ;)

I would like to mention, keep in mind you also need to Modify your GPU heatsink to use it with nvidia cards, Im not entirtly sure if this is also for AMD cards,but I think it is.
And I would also highly reccomend you use K5 Pro, special thermal pasta for the vram and power capacitors on the MXM video card.
This k5 stuff looks the same like the original stuff apple puts on their cards, it cools the best for these area's.
Just dont use thermal pads in my opinion..

See video bellow as an example of this special stuff.

Also I would highly reccomend you put some 3mm copper chimes on the backside vram chips, with 3M thermal tape.

Also keep in mind, target disk mode is not working withouth an EFI bootscreen mod.
I however never got it working, it worked fine with the EFI bootrom mod from Nick [D]vB ;)
Also keep in mind you not only need to flash/modify your imacs bootrom, but also the vbios of your new graphics card.
All provided by Nick [D]vB ;)

[automerge]1571153447[/automerge]


you mean with the EFI bootrom mod from Nick [D]vB ?

Thanks FlorisVN, I edited and made the changes based on your recommendations. I see you have been very active here and I am very thankful you are sharing your experience with the community.
 
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Attempting the bootrom mod on a 27" late 2009 (4MB bootrom) Where do I need to add the 2 patches on this bootrom, There DXE volumes are named differently. I attempted to add them where there was free space but the version of UEFI tool that worked to mod the 2011 didn't like my attempts to beat the 2009 rom into submission.
 
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