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I checked Apple's official website. It is estimated that it is 5.1.5621. brigadier-0.2.4 downloaded 4033 for me...
I can't install the bootcamp5.1.5621 through win7 compatibility mode, Finally I forced the installation through "msiexec /i BootCamp.msi" , the bootcamp control panel works now.

F11 and F12 can adjust the volume,
but F1 F2 still can't adjust the brightness.who can help solve this problem?
After playing for 1 minute, the wx4170's temperature is 83℃+. Will the graphics card burn again?
View attachment 1961094
Brightness adjustment in Windows never worked for me with any AMD Polaris GPU cards (like the WX4170) in my late 2009 iMac.
But it does work for @Ausdauersportler's 2010 iMac.

With the brightness then constantly at the maximum I recommend to avoid GPU intensive applications. The display generates very much heat then.

At least a 27" iMac shouldn't be used at maximum brightness in my opinion. For that reason I only boot my iMac into Windows when there's no way around it, and prefer Wine or VMware for running the Windows applications I need.
Try to run your game in macOS in PortingKit, which uses Wine.
 
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I checked Apple's official website. It is estimated that it is 5.1.5621. brigadier-0.2.4 downloaded 4033 for me...
I can't install the bootcamp5.1.5621 through win7 compatibility mode, Finally I forced the installation through "msiexec /i BootCamp.msi" , the bootcamp control panel works now.

F11 and F12 can adjust the volume,
but F1 F2 still can't adjust the brightness.who can help solve this problem?
After playing for 1 minute, the wx4170's temperature is 83℃+. Will the graphics card burn again?
View attachment 1961094
You have ODD fan set to auto and spinning at lowest speed, no wonder card overheats. Change it to custom and target the GPU with max speed at 75°
 
But it does work for @Ausdauersportler's 2010 iMac.
I'm "glad" you have the same problem, not just me😅 ,it does work for m0bil 2010 iMac too.
what's wrong with 2009?
Well, I always thought that the iMac27' model in late 2009 was the same as that in 2010, the same first generation processor and the same motherboard. If the MAC could not really control the brightness, the heating would be terrible.
 
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Yes, that card (together with the RX 5700) is the latest known MXM graphics card with AMD GPU.
The card doesn't adhere completely to the MXM specifications with respect to the board dimensions, so you'll maybe need to do some more heat sink or iMac case modifications.
We don't know how well our old EFI firmware plays with PCIe 4.0 cards, although they should be backwards compatible.

With some luck the VBIOS will work with our EFI firmware as is - but modifying it may become a challenge.

You should start in the iMac 2010 as the 2011 is "pickier".
Ok, I ordered I'll let you know how it turns out 👍
 
I'm pleased to report a success installing an Nvidia Quadro K3100M into my 2011 27" Imac.

However I'm no longer interested in the project due to the large size of the Imac, and having recently bought a Mac Mini which plays through my TV.

I wondered whether there would be any interest if I were to advertise the board and the associated three pipe heatsink to which it was applied using the recommended compounds.

i would be looking for around GB£130 + P&P to cover my costs should there be any interest.

Please advise if this post is inappropriate

I would also consider selling the Imac with the graphics card in it with 16Mb of RAM and a 128SSD and 1tb HDD

Thank you

Tony

IMG_2528.JPEG
 
Hi,

I plan to buy a "Sonnet eGPU Breakaway Puck Radeon RX 5500 XT" and extract the card to try to see if it is recognized by my 2011 or 2010 iMac,


This is what the card looks like (RX 5700 version):


Do you think it can work? I know the price is high but I'm doing this for research :)

I plan to use the sonnet for normal use on my newer MacBook Pro if it doesn't work
I did this with an RX560 Breakaway Puck after the lying ebay seller/previous owner plugged the power cable in upside down killing the Thunderbolt to MXM board.

Anyways I never had working Backlight enabled from the card itself. The iMac thinks it has proper backlight control but the card cannot deliver the PWM signal. To fix this, I'd have to reinstall a modified dyinglight module from Dosdude1. Maybe the rx5700 version might behave differently, but I doubt it.
 
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About gaming with an old iMac...​


This is now my third GPU upgrade in the same machine in the past 6 months (getting addicted I guess...)...now installed an AMD RX480 on my iMac 11,3. I am pretty impressed what is still possible with an 11 years old iMac! Here is a clip sample of very high demanding game in terms of graphics - Metro Exodus. The RX480 is really powerful - I cannot use the full power of this GPU as the iMac internal system is heating up and can crash. It's a bit tricky as you need to find the right fan settings in the iMac and the right resolution in the game settings. I discovered that the "Power Heatsink" is getting easily above 80 degrees Celsius, sometimes 100 degrees - I guess it's because of high workload and the resulting increased power consumption of GPU (94 watts in peaks). At the same time, if Power Heatsink is at 80+ and GPU die goes close to +75 C degrees the iMac is suddenly rebooting. I had these symptoms pretty often in the beginning but after playing around with fan settings and game settings I could find a workable/stable solution. The main challenge is to get an acceptable thermal working condition. I am mainly running the CPU fan at maximum and have the ODD fan kick in at 55 degress and max RPM at 65 degrees. I am using the Mac fan control pro version in order to save the settings for "gaming" with high quality. For normal usage these settings are not required.

Absolutely amazing what open source software developers, testers, bios reverse engineers have created here. Your are really awesome! With special thanks to @Ausdauersportler for the helping hand and @internetzel for creating the bios!
Agree. The RX480 is an amazing beast with very close performance to its bigger brother WX7100. Luckily I fetched one more than a year ago before its price hike and currently vey difficult to find.

Congratulation to your success. Put a small 1mm thick copper plate on the CPU for better coupling with the heaksink, which needs to be the 3-pipe one. Mine has its temp rising to ~90 C on running an extended benchmark but not higher with no reboot or instability. Probably the only game I played (Diablo III) isn't that GPU demanding as yours. I think the vBIOS supplied has already tuned down the power consumption. It is a very good investment, though I think for most casual users, the "lower end" AMD WX4130 or 4150 should suffice. They are much better in later OSX than the nVidia.
 
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Hi,
Do you have some experince with Quadro K1000m (N12p-Q1-A1) or Quadro K2000m in iMac 27 2011. I can buy both but they are from HP laptop, not for Dell. Give me some recommendation, please. Thank you.
 
Hi,
Do you have some experince with Quadro K1000m (N12p-Q1-A1) or Quadro K2000m in iMac 27 2011. I can buy both but they are from HP laptop, not for Dell. Give me some recommendation, please. Thank you.
Please check this post about the complete process, get the correct vBIOS and flash the card after installation using the Linux flash utility (FAQ).

Cards from HP will not give you a working screen before getting the new vBIOS installed. Cards from HP will be working fine normally.
 
Please check this post about the complete process, get the correct vBIOS and flash the card after installation using the Linux flash utility (FAQ).

Cards from HP will not give you a working screen before getting the new vBIOS installed. Cards from HP will be working fine normally.
Thank you for your answer. Will I have working external screen before flashing or there is no screen at all?
 
Agree. The RX480 is an amazing beast with very close performance to its bigger brother WX7100. Luckily I fetched one more than a year ago before its price hike and currently vey difficult to find.

Congratulation to your success. Put a small 1mm thick copper plate on the CPU for better coupling with the heaksink, which needs to be the 3-pipe one. Mine has its temp rising to ~90 C on running an extended benchmark but not higher with no reboot or instability. Probably the only game I played (Diablo III) isn't that GPU demanding as yours. I think the vBIOS supplied has already tuned down the power consumption. It is a very good investment, though I think for most casual users, the "lower end" AMD WX4130 or 4150 should suffice. There are much better in later OSX than the nVidia.
Many thanks for your feedback. Very interesting that you installed the copper plate - I have not. Also very interesting that your GPU is can up to ±90 C in extended graphics without instability. I am wondering if you experience also the high temperatures of Power Heatsink1 ? My observation is that if both GPU and Power Heatsink1 are high (like +70C GPU and +80C Power) the reboot occurs.
 
Many thanks for your feedback. Very interesting that you installed the copper plate - I have not. Also very interesting that your GPU is can up to ±90 C in extended graphics without instability. I am wondering if you experience also the high temperatures of Power Heatsink1 ? My observation is that if both GPU and Power Heatsink1 are high (like +70C GPU and +80C Power) the reboot occurs.
AMD RX480 has a temperature sensor IC with top mark T19D (LM89-1D), which could (or should?) cause address collision in iMac11,x machines (with one of the CPU temperature sensors). In my (limited) experience those address collisions can come in several disguises. Either just a simple wrong CPU temperature readout (this occurred to me with a HP WX4150 in an iMac11,1 and also to @Ausdauersportler with some GCN cards), or random reboots (happened to me with an improperly modded HP WX4170 in iMac11,1 and iMac11,3).
Note: I'm not saying this is the culprit. Check your GPU to heatsink mount first.
 
Agree. The RX480 is an amazing beast with very close performance to its bigger brother WX7100. Luckily I fetched one more than a year ago before its price hike and currently vey difficult to find.

Congratulation to your success. Put a small 1mm thick copper plate on the CPU for better coupling with the heaksink, which needs to be the 3-pipe one. Mine has its temp rising to ~90 C on running an extended benchmark but not higher with no reboot or instability. Probably the only game I played (Diablo III) isn't that GPU demanding as yours. I think the vBIOS supplied has already tuned down the power consumption. It is a very good investment, though I think for most casual users, the "lower end" AMD WX4130 or 4150 should suffice. There are much better in later OSX than the nVidia.
My own RX480 works like a charm thanks to @internetzel who created the vBIOS.

Before I installed it to my heat sink I measured and tested it. Of course I cannot completely deny that an additional copper plate may help, but it's size needs to be more 20mm x 20mm or even bigger, this GPU chip is mounted diagonal on the card.

Nevertheless the GPU itself is the highest part and in direct contact with the copper part of the sink. I have to admit I never used a game with this card.
 
What's involved to install a Wx7100 8gb to a IMac mid 2011 27. Nvidia quadro k3100m was easy to install and runs no problem. If someone could help step by step what I need to do that would be brilliant.
 
What's involved to install a Wx7100 8gb to a IMac mid 2011 27. Nvidia quadro k3100m was easy to install and runs no problem. If someone could help step by step what I need to do that would be brilliant.

To me, the first step is to sit back and think why I would spend 400$ to buy that card and struggle with it, when an old Mac Mini M1 is just 500$...
 
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To me, the first step is to sit back and think why would I spend 400$ to buy that card and struggle with it, when an old Mac Mini M1 is just 500$...
Hilarious!

Yes, I invested nearly 400 Euro into my WX7100 (including shipment and taxes from the U.S., sold as new) last summer and have it running - thanks to @internetzel - within a fully refurbished iMac12,2, 16GB memory, 1TB new crucial SSD, BT/WiFi upgrade. Display and system in nearly mint shape...

If someone in Europe/Germany is interested to get this machine just let me know in an PM. I guess it is impossible to get the card from the usual sources...
 
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Thank you for your answer. Will I have working external screen before flashing or there is no screen at all?
No screen unless you flashed the new vBIOS! HP cards to not have a vBIOS and so they will not display internally or on an external display.

After flashing internal and external screen will work. Do me a favor and read the docs.
 
Little bit off-topic, but did someting quite different today; don't know wether this is done before.

Bought a 2011 i5 2,7 really cheap, with a defective screen. Initially i hoped th videocard was gone but no.
Tried replacing the backlight board, but no luck either. At first the left side of the screen was rather dark, and eventually all of the screen goes dark. (could see the image with a flashlight tough)

Had a new 2009 screen lying around, with a small scratch on the screen, but offcourse none of the cables will fit to a 2011 iMac. so I opened up the topside of the panels and inside the flatbed connectors are the same, so I switched the circuitboards & cables and yes it worked! i only had overseen de bluetooth connector at the left side, so now I still have to switch a part of the frame. (just unscrew).
Today I did the same with a dead (backlight cable broken) mid 2010 display and a working, but flickering, late 2009 display. Before I had tried to change display cable, inverter board, but the flickering went from iMac to iMac with the display, so it could only be the display and it's electronics. After putting the 2010 board into the 2009 display the flickering was gone - hope it does not come back. At least I have a working test system, again.


Clear the access to the four screws in the red circles. Get rid of the old plastic and metal duct tape and replace it completely on reinstallation.

Start.jpg

Remove the four screws using a normal small Philipps driver. Bend the metal cover carefully back until you see the electronics. The two long boards on the top are connected to the panel while the smaller board in the middle uses two flat bed connectors to connect. We will replace only the board in the middle!

OpenCover.jpg

Open carefully both flat bed connectors using a little flat screw driver.

OpenConnector.jpg

After opening both connectors lift the board in the center slightly (it may be glued to the metal cover) and pull it away carefully from the fixed boards.

OpenedConnectors.jpg


Disconnected.jpg

Step 5

Now you can grab the board and replace it with another model. When reconnecting use a magnifier glas, you can easily see a little rail alike slide guide for the flat cable on both connectors in the back. Makes it pretty easy to slide in the new board and close both connectors, again.

BTW:
The flickering did not went away completely, I am was pretty sure the backlight connectors cables are were disconnected after years of heat. Repairing this needs a different approach.

Edit:
The LCD electronics was broken, replacing it with a electronics and panel from a 2010 fixed it. The complete back part including LED backlight and light scattering unit works perfectly, now.
 
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21.5' 2009/2010/2011 iMac display cleanup ('ghosting' removal)

Below is a description on how to get rid of 'ghosting' (fine dust buildup within the display - between the actual LCD panel and the backlight sheet) in an iMac11,2 display. (I'm pretty sure the same procedure will work for an 21.5' iMac10,1 or an iMac12,1 display.)

First, here is the display before cleaning - this is not a particularly bad example, but some ghosting is visible in the upper left part.
IMG_0606.JPG
IMG_0609.JPG
I used the following:
  • microfibre cloth,
  • neutral LCD cleaning liquid,
  • 30mm wide aluminium tape,
  • snap-off blade cutter,
  • tweezers,
  • T10 torx screwdriver,
  • spudger,
  • flat end screwdriver (in case the spudger just won't do).
IMG_0649.JPG
First, remove and discard the metal tape in yellow rectangles in the image below. Then use the blade cutter to carefully cut along the red lines. Finally, remove four T10 screws marked with small orange arrows. (Just slightly move the 'metal sponge' out of the way to access the upper right one.)
IMG_0615.JPG

Flip the display and note the alignment of the neodymium magnets with the edge of the metal frame. (I'll explain the relevance later...)
IMG_0618.JPG

Now we'll have to remove the two brackets with the magnets. Those are not only held in place by the screws we just removed, but also by some strong glue. Carefully force those brackets away from the display frame. If the spudger won't do, use that flat end screwdriver.
IMG_0619.JPG
IMG_0622.JPG

Once the glue is defeated, remove those brackets and put them aside. (Simply cut along the black tape with the blade cutter if it still sticks to the bracket.)
Remember the position of the 'metal sponge' at the bottom of the display. Remove it carefully and set it aside.
Remove the black and transparent tape at the sides and the bottom of the display. Discard that removed tape.
IMG_0623.JPG
IMG_0624.JPG
IMG_0626.JPG

Now, we'll actually lift the frame of the display. Prepare a wide cardboard box for that frame to rest against. Using a spudger, carefully unsnap the metal frame from plastic/metal holders (5 at the bottom, 2 on each side).
IMG_0627.JPG

Once all of those are unsnapped, flip the display, lift the frame and rest it against that cardboard box.
IMG_0628.JPG

Use tweezers and carefully unglue the metal tape - only the part attached to the LCD panel (blue arrow). Use the spudger to carefully lift the LCD panel itself. Just lift one of the bottom corners, then carefully rest it against the lifted frame.
N.b.: There are 6 fragile ribbon cables at the top, connecting the panel to the T-CON board. Do not break these!
In the image below you can see the fine dust in the location the ghosting occurred at this particular display.
IMG_0631.JPG
Spray some LCD cleaner onto the microfibre cloth and clean both - the LCD panel (black) and the backlight sheet (silvery white). Be gentle and make sure no streaks remain.
Once cleaned, lower the LCD panel into place, reattach that metal tape on the right side, and lower the metal frame (make sure it 'clicks' in all 9 positions). Provisionally mount the display into the iMac (without the brackets) and power it on. Does it look OK?
IMG_0634.JPG

Actually, no. I left a speck there! So let's do it again.
Now, you'll have to reseal the display. I used 30mm wide aluminium tape to do this. (I used a relatively thin variant. While it is rather fragile and tears easily it does a really good job at sealing every nook and cranny, thus preventing the dust from entering again.)
IMG_0638.JPG
IMG_0640.JPG
IMG_0641.JPG
IMG_0643.JPG

Now, reattach the side brackets and that metal sponge at the bottom. Remember that magnet alignment? You'll have to force it - the magnets will try to align the bracket differently. (Failing to do that, you'll end up with a 1mm gap between the front glass and iMac case... You don't have to ask me, how I know that.)
IMG_0644.JPG
IMG_0637.JPG
 
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Experimental AMD RX 5500 XT 4GB (Extract from Sonnet eGPU Breakaway Puck)

Tested on Big Sur in a 27-inch iMac 2010

I adapted a MXM-A 2 pipe heatsink (only for tests, you need at least a 3 pipe for this card I guess, the mod is quite complicated). Neither of the two x-bracket formats is suitable due to the components

As predicted by @highvoltage12v here, the card does not deliver a PWM signal,

I assume that the original vbios has GOP because I was able to get the OpenCore bootpicker but without active backlight,

So I did the "hot wire solution" to have a display to test,

I add the boot-args agdpmod=pikera because the screen comes black when loading the OS and graphics drivers,

Additional info :

- No temp reading
- No graphics acceleration on High Sierra, I guess from Catalina (system released with iMac Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2020)
- No external display from miniDisplay port
- Booting on Windows 10 UEFI
- No POST on iMac12,2 (SMBus likely)
- iMac11,3 sleep and wake fully functional

I attach the vBios, maybe the PWM signal can be recovered? Unless it's hardware...

**update**
Score + vBios attached (the first was saved with GPU-z but incomplete)

(Sorry for the translation)
 

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Brightness adjustment in Windows never worked for me with any AMD Polaris GPU cards (like the WX4170) in my late 2009 iMac.
I used to use Nick's BIOS.
For his week,I used geekbench5.4.4 to test 3 BIOS provided by you, but the two kinds of BIOS of 4170 roms can't pass geekbench's metal test.
The following is the result:
nick's 4150rom: ok, metal-score:17000-18000
WX4150_ GOP: ok, metal-score:21000-22000
WX4170_ GOP: get stuck at 34sec then crash, Tested for 5 times, only passed the test for the first time, metal-score: 27000.
WX4170_ GOP_ ALT_ VRAM: get stuck at 34sec then crash, Test only once.
IMG_6200.JPG

I don't know why the two kinds of BIOS of 4170 can't pass the test. They both get stuck at Gaussian blur for 34 seconds, and then the black screen crashes
It's also strange and happy that under the same core frequency of 1053mhz and video memory frequency of 1500mhz, the score of BIOS you provide is much higher.
 
I used to use Nick's BIOS.
For his week,I used geekbench5.4.4 to test 3 BIOS provided by you, but the two kinds of BIOS of 4170 roms can't pass geekbench's metal test.
The following is the result:
nick's 4150rom: ok, metal-score:17000-18000
WX4150_ GOP: ok, metal-score:21000-22000
WX4170_ GOP: get stuck at 34sec then crash, Tested for 5 times, only passed the test for the first time, metal-score: 27000.
WX4170_ GOP_ ALT_ VRAM: get stuck at 34sec then crash, Test only once.
View attachment 1962321
I don't know why the two kinds of BIOS of 4170 can't pass the test. They both get stuck at Gaussian blur for 34 seconds, and then the black screen crashes
It's also strange and happy that under the same core frequency of 1053mhz and video memory frequency of 1500mhz, the score of BIOS you provide is much higher.
Which WX4170 do you have? This could be the reason.
 
I don't know...
I also want to know how to distinguish a graphics card from Polaris 11 or plaris 21 chip?
Here are the photos I took before
View attachment 1962343View attachment 1962344
I'm not sure if the grade of the GPU can be distinguished from the GPU die. But you do have an early revision, so you could have the lower grade variant. (In my case - I have an even earlier WX4170 revision - the WX4170 VBIOS would crash during MetalBench benchmark, while the WX4150 VBIOS is rock stable.)
Another possibility: Your card has a temperature sensor IC on board, which could cause address collision in 2009/2010 iMacs. (Though I'm not sure how this could be related to VBIOS used.) What are the CPU temperature readings?
 
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Another possibility: Your card has a temperature sensor IC on board, which could cause address collision in 2009/2010 iMacs. (Though I'm not sure how this could be related to VBIOS used.) What are the CPU temperature readings?
I guess it has nothing to do with the temperature and temperature sensor. The temperature is low.
tem.png
IMG_6200.JPG

And every crash must be at Gaussian blue 34 seconds.Six crashes all occurred in this 34.
 
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