Funny to think you can upgrade a 2009 iMac 11,1 to the same 580X graphics chip as the “new” 2019 model.
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Its a 21.5 inch so I only have one external mini display port so its not an issue, nice to know though.You are correct, i forgot that page.
But GTX880m does need Nvidia web drivers, and kepler cards don’t.
So I would still prefer and reccomend a kepler card, kepler also has Mojave support.
Nvidia web drivers are a dead end at this moment.. :S
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Good work
Cinema display brightness would always work, if cinema USB is connected.
The USB port of the cinema display. Will make macos control the brightness of it.
So hooking it up the cinema USB port is reccomended.
GTX765M only has 1 external monitor output working with Dell/Alienware vbios.
So dual cinema display’s wont work..
I haven't had a chance to test DyingLight on an iMac yet, but I know what portion of the firmware is causing the backlight flicker on change. I plan on revising it, and including the new firmware with future DyingLight modules. Current DyingLight modules can be updated using an EEPROM programmer.
Can you (or someone else who's done this) take a video of the backlight flicker on change? I THINK I may be able to fix it, but it may be too much for the little ATTINY85 microcontroller to handle stable PWM output and USB communication. Also I just need to update the driver to work with the backlight keys on an Apple USB or BT keyboard... I just need to get one for testing first.I just completed a 765m install in a 2011 27" imac with a DyingLight module and I also did the bluetooth/wifi upgrade as well. Everything went really well. I obviously have the flicker on change thing going on since i'm sure my has the older firmware. However, is it expected that the F14/F15 keys don't control brightness?
For others interested. I stole power for the DyingLight from the IR receiver so I still have a functional SD Card slot as well.
My 765m has been working great, but I am having some issues bootcamping my 2011 iMac. I am using a USB install tumbdrive that i created on my boot-camped macbook pro. I have been holding the option key down to get into the boot selector, I know i cant see it but I only have 2 options so I figured I could just select it blindly. I am almost certain the USB is being booted to as it shows up on my macbook pro when i enter the boot selector and doesn't boot into OSX on my iMac. After I hit enter to boot the iMac screen just stays blank, is that because the windows setup also requires a mac supported card to display? If that is the case how do i bootcamp it without the original card? I still have it it would just be annoying to have swap them again..
Thanks
Did you check the PWM voltage? The IR sensor runs off 5v and I don't think the DyingLight will reduce it's input voltage to a 3.3v PWM output, 5v PWM might actually be ok but I wouldn't risk it long term.
You can use the IR sensors USB data lines, but as I said before, I would split 3.3v from the SD cable to power the DyingLight (you can still use the SD reader) or just take 3.3v straight from the PSU.
No news on a firmware update yet, the DyingLight had sold out on eBay but hopefully Collin is still working on it for the next batch? I have a hunch there might be a spike in demand for them quite soon...
Can you (or someone else who's done this) take a video of the backlight flicker on change? I THINK I may be able to fix it, but it may be too much for the little ATTINY85 microcontroller to handle stable PWM output and USB communication. Also I just need to update the driver to work with the backlight keys on an Apple USB or BT keyboard... I just need to get one for testing first.
If you could upload it to Google Drive, Dropbox or YouTube, that would be great.Sorry, I should have been more specific. I had a 3.3v buck converter laying around, unused from a different project. I used that to get the 5v to 3.3v.
Took a video. How should i post it?
If you could upload it to Google Drive, Dropbox or YouTube, that would be great.
The bootable thumb drive dose not show up in system prefs, already triedEasiest way to boot to Windows is to select the bootcamp drive as a startup disk from system preferences in Macos.
As for the black screen what I reckon is happening is that you're not getting any backlight. This is what happened with my Alienware 780m in Windows. Shine a torch into the screen once you're up and see what you can see. Oddly enough the Dell rom for the 780m works perfectly with windows, but not with Macos. As far as I know no card/rom combination works with both windows and macos, but the DyingLight module should be a way around it as it should force backlight on windows.
The bootable thumb drive dose not show up in system prefs, already tried
I used windows media creation tool on my bootcamped mac, just tried disconnecting the internal screen, did not work...Could be a uefi thing - how did you install windows to it?
I cant find where to purchase the DyingLight module
I used windows media creation tool on my bootcamped mac, just tried disconnecting the internal screen, did not work...
I did post the pin-outs a few pages back, replacing the SD reader and using a PCIE extension cable is the easiest method. I’m away from home at the moment but I'll try and post photos and a wiring diagram when I get back.Is there a write up on how to do the DyingLight mod?
Cool, it sounded like you might have been feeding 5v into the backlight board. As you also did the Bluetooth mod at the same time it might have been easier to tap the 3.3v from that join with the tape around it?Sorry, I should have been more specific. I had a 3.3v buck converter laying around, unused from a different project. I used that to get the 5v to 3.3v.
I get exactly the same flicker as in the video, I wonder why it doesn’t happen on the Macbook? It might be safer to have the function keys working, as the screen goes off completely at the lowest setting and you then can’t see the slider to turn it back up!Can you (or someone else who's done this) take a video of the backlight flicker on change? I THINK I may be able to fix it, but it may be too much for the little ATTINY85 microcontroller to handle stable PWM output and USB communication. Also I just need to update the driver to work with the backlight keys on an Apple USB or BT keyboard... I just need to get one for testing first.
It might be safer to have the function keys working, as the screen goes off completely at the lowest setting and you then can’t see the slider to turn it back up!
As you also did the Bluetooth mod at the same time it might have been easier to tap the 3.3v from that join with the tape around it?
980Ms don't work, only kepler based cards do. An 880m will work but require nvidia's flaky drivers. At this stage the 780m is the best card to get.
It's also the card that rominator said he got working with a bootscreen, but it looks like he's dropped off the radar and despite making a big deal about it working and getting a lot of people in this thread excited there's been no updates or progress in months.
If you've got the cash maybe look at egpu. I've got an rx 580 in a Razer Core X that I use with my 13" rmbp w/tb, I might do a benchmark today with it hooked up to the iMac's thunderbolt 1 and see how it benchmarks. I'll report back.
I haven't tested that feature actually, I'll give that a try today. I used to work in an Apple store when I bought this machine, so I've explored a lot of what it could do.Ah sorry didn't realise you had the 2010 model, no idea to be honest.
Have you tested target display mode though? The benefit of the pre Thunderbolt 27" iMacs is that they can be used as displays on any device, basically a cheap cinema display.