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I really appreciate the reply. Thank you and everything that you do on this forum. I'm going to get rid of the K3100Ms and try a S7100X. I know they are experimental and not fully supported yet.

I did re-read the first post and still am a little confused about the K5 Pro recommendation. I understand that K5 Pro is better then thermal pads. But from everything that I've read, the MX4 out performs the the K5 Pro in thermal transfer.
Using the more fluid MX-4 is a mess on the board and it is used to make contact between a ceramic GPU top and a metal heat sink. It is not simply about numbers, it is about the material used and the gaps to be expected. MX-4 makes a thin film, but the sink is not made for the these cards and the gaps can be between half a millimeter and two millimeters for different modules. K5 is perfect to gap all those different distances - except for the GPU.

The S7100X is (like the W6170M) a nightmare in the iMac12,2 system. NVRAM corruption on cold boot, and broken sleep/wake.

No brightness control on all systems...
 
Using the more fluid MX-4 is a mess on the board and it is used to make contact between a ceramic GPU top and a metal heat sink. It is not simply about numbers, it is about the material used and the gaps to be expected. MX-4 makes a thin film, but the sink is not made for the these cards and the gaps can be between half a millimeter and two millimeters for different modules. K5 is perfect to gap all those different distances - except for the GPU.

The S7100X is (like the W6170M) a nightmare in the iMac12,2 system. NVRAM corruption on cold boot, and broken sleep/wake.

No brightness control on all systems...
Ah, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the clarification.

I have a 11,1 system, so I think I'll be okay, from what I've read on that thread. It doesn't bother me that there will be no brightness control. Although, I thought I saw something about a third party software control for brightness.
 
Test the gpu without the heat sink just temporary and for a few seconds to see if the Mac will post. This will determine if it’s a short.

First:
Dismount the metal frame in front during your experiments. This way you can swap in and out a GPU very easily without removing the system board. Remount it after you solved all your problems and tested all software and hardware updates (consider the BT/WiFi one).

Second:
Run the iMac without any GPU installed and perform three PRAM resets in a row until you hear the fourth chime. Switch the iMac off.

Third:
Mount the WX7100 again and redo the power on test. When you hear a chime pull the wall plug or switch off power immediately!

Great news! I'm glad you got this working --enjoy the powerful graphics performance.

For future steps: Yes, K5 Pro should go on the VRAM and coils, and Arctic MX-5 should go on the GPU die. If you've not done so already, you'll definitely need to install OpenCore Legacy Patcher as well. Optionally, you can upgrade the Bluetooth/WiFi card to a better-supported/newer model if you intend to use these features (more info in the first post.) You should then be able to put the iMac back together and install macOS Monterey.


Thank you all it's working!

Maybe the problem was a "mixture" between PRAM reset not done & a short circuit. The short circuit maybe was between the heatsink and the metal frame that I use for the 2 ssd (3,5" metal frame with 2 ssd slots). .. and I forgot to do the PRAM reset!!!! after fixing this things, my wx7100 on imac27 works!

but I need help for the last thing.. I didn't find how to do in this post or I missed it...

Before install the GPU I prepared the first SSD: 3 partition (1 for High Sierra without apfs, 1 for the future Monterey and 1 for Windows 10). I installed Windows 10 and it booted & worked well. (The second SSD it's only for data.. no OS)

Today I started to install Monterey with OCLP, but before proceeding to reboot for the install I made the OLCP Recovery CD (just in case).

[I don't know if is known: if you use an external optical drive, works well the C during booting - my old internal ODD died some time ago]

Obviously I tried to boot in USB, but I can't without the native boot picker. So I booted with the OLCP Recovery CD and I made all the installation of Monterey with OLCP... I made all the build, install and post install....

but how can set the "OLCP boot picker" as "default driver"? I can't always boot from the Recovery CD.
Now it is set on High Sierra and I need alway to connect the external LCD, to turn on the internal LCD.


PS: Windows 10 boot from "Startup Disk" and works well with the new GPU without external LCD. I updated also the driver of the card..
 

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but how can set the "OLCP boot picker" as "default driver"? I can't always boot from the Recovery CD.
Now it is set on High Sierra and I need alway to connect the external LCD, to turn on the internal LCD.
I'd be careful about keeping High Sierra, Monterey, and Windows as partitions on the same SSD. High Sierra doesn't like to play nicely with more recent versions of macOS and can corrupt the other partitions when you boot into it. I've also had trouble running macOS and Windows on the same SSD with OCLP, although your experience may vary.

I'd personally recommend using separate SSDs instead of partitions when dual (or tri) booting as things just seem to work better this way in my experience.

Eliminating High Sierra from your system entirely might not be a bad plan. It used to be needed a few years ago to "rescue" a broken OS upgrade, but with the way OCLP has evolved, I don't think it's necessary anymore and might only make things work less smoothly.

To get OCLP to work by default, you'll need to install it directly to your primary boot SSD's first partition. This way, if there is ever a power outage or the PRAM gets reset somehow, you'll always boot into OCLP and avoid needing to take the computer apart again or go through a lot of hassle with CDs. This might be complicated by the several operating systems you have installed.

The partition that boots first by default (after a PRAM reset,) whether it's High Sierra or Monterey, must have a copy of OCLP installed on its EFI partition. As you can imagine, this gets really really messy with multiple OSs. Even with multiple drives and no partitions, such as a Windows drive and a Mac drive, you'll need to make sure the macOS SSD (not the Windows one) is plugged into the default SATA port so that if the settings ever get forgotten after a PRAM reset, OCLP will always load by default. Windows ought to be run through OCLP as well --see the OCLP docs about this if you haven't already.

To select a default boot drive when you are in the OCLP boot picker, hold down the control key while you hit the enter/return key, and the computer will remember to boot from that drive in the future (but only as long as the PRAM remembers.)

I hope this helps
 
but how can set the "OLCP boot picker" as "default driver"? I can't always boot from the Recovery CD.
Now it is set on High Sierra and I need alway to connect the external LCD, to turn on the internal LCD.
Agree with what davidg5678 shared above, and those are my experience too.

You may also use a small active display adapter instead of an external LCD to enable your internal LCD so as to save more desktop space, unless you prefer to work with dual mons.
 
I'd be careful about keeping High Sierra, Monterey, and Windows as partitions on the same SSD. High Sierra doesn't like to play nicely with more recent versions of macOS and can corrupt the other partitions when you boot into it. I've also had trouble running macOS and Windows on the same SSD with OCLP, although your experience may vary.

I'd personally recommend using separate SSDs instead of partitions when dual (or tri) booting as things just seem to work better this way in my experience.

Eliminating High Sierra from your system entirely might not be a bad plan. It used to be needed a few years ago to "rescue" a broken OS upgrade, but with the way OCLP has evolved, I don't think it's necessary anymore and might only make things work less smoothly.

To get OCLP to work by default, you'll need to install it directly to your primary boot SSD's first partition. This way, if there is ever a power outage or the PRAM gets reset somehow, you'll always boot into OCLP and avoid needing to take the computer apart again or go through a lot of hassle with CDs. This might be complicated by the several operating systems you have installed.

The partition that boots first by default (after a PRAM reset,) whether it's High Sierra or Monterey, must have a copy of OCLP installed on its EFI partition. As you can imagine, this gets really really messy with multiple OSs. Even with multiple drives and no partitions, such as a Windows drive and a Mac drive, you'll need to make sure the macOS SSD (not the Windows one) is plugged into the default SATA port so that if the settings ever get forgotten after a PRAM reset, OCLP will always load by default. Windows ought to be run through OCLP as well --see the OCLP docs about this if you haven't already.

To select a default boot drive when you are in the OCLP boot picker, hold down the control key while you hit the enter/return key, and the computer will remember to boot from that drive in the future (but only as long as the PRAM remembers.)

I hope this helps
Thank you…

My partition scheme:
  1. EFI
  2. High Sierra (small partition)
  3. BOOTCAMP
  4. Monterey

I have already installed OCLP on the EFI partition of the boot disk… but after resetting the PRAM, OCLP started at boot!

After i follow your advice.
I boot a gparted usb and deleted the monterey and high sierta partitions, moved the bootcamp partition at the end and created a new monterey partition:
  1. EFI
  2. Monterey
  3. BOOTCAMP
I didn’t touch the EFI partition!

I re-installed Monterey OCLP (build-install-post) and works well…
But OCLP don’t see the previos windows installation, and also Monterey can’t boot via “Startup Disk” (see partition but can’t boot)

This evening i try to fix the windows installation.. if i can’t, i’ll re-install windows.. could be quicker…

In the next post, i’m going to post the performance!

Thank you again!
 
Thank you…

My partition scheme:
  1. EFI
  2. High Sierra (small partition)
  3. BOOTCAMP
  4. Monterey

I have already installed OCLP on the EFI partition of the boot disk… but after resetting the PRAM, OCLP started at boot!

After i follow your advice.
I boot a gparted usb and deleted the monterey and high sierta partitions, moved the bootcamp partition at the end and created a new monterey partition:
  1. EFI
  2. Monterey
  3. BOOTCAMP
I didn’t touch the EFI partition!

I re-installed Monterey OCLP (build-install-post) and works well…
But OCLP don’t see the previos windows installation, and also Monterey can’t boot via “Startup Disk” (see partition but can’t boot)

This evening i try to fix the windows installation.. if i can’t, i’ll re-install windows.. could be quicker…

In the next post, i’m going to post the performance!

Thank you again!

There is one thing about Windows that is less known to many: The partition (volume) for Windows must be as near as the beginning of the physical disk, or else Windows will reject the installation. I fell into this situation once on my iMac 2010. It took me a lot of time searching the internet for the cause and solution.
In the process of Windows installation, avoid multiple times of deleting + creating Windows volume, as it will create a small and undeletable EFI partition (volume in Mac language) each time. In the end, you would have to wipe out the entire disk (re-partitioning) and start from scratch.
 
Bootrom update is irrespective of what gpu you have in your system.
Either Mojave 10.14.6 Security Update 2020-004 or High Sierra Security Update 2020-004 released on 15 July 2020 will update your 2011 imac to 87.0.0.0.0
Install High Sierra, go to App Store click on updates, install all updates, done. Easy peasy.
Hi so finally my bootrom
Is updated to 87.0.0.0.0 but now the display comes only after booting to apple logo and disappears the machine is on but blank display as I can hear keystrokes. Okay so I did hs clean install and the security update 2020-006 it went into long beep and firmware update happend this is all while I used old hd6990 card then I installed catalina and now it is messed up more like only apple logo and the display inverter goes off same thing in old card .
Man this is a struggle the k3000m was all easy
What next
 
There is one thing about Windows that is less known to many: The partition (volume) for Windows must be as near as the beginning of the physical disk, or else Windows will reject the installation. I fell into this situation once on my iMac 2010. It took me a lot of time searching the internet for the cause and solution.
In the process of Windows installation, avoid multiple times of deleting + creating Windows volume, as it will create a small and undeletable EFI partition (volume in Mac language) each time. In the end, you would have to wipe out the entire disk (re-partitioning) and start from scratch.
Yes, it’s true…

For working, the windows partition need to be or the second or the third one (excluded the EFI as first).

From the fourth partition included, doesn’t work the installation process.
 
That looks sketchy as bro.
It surely is if you don't have any other plan to lift and connect the lcd yourself, but if you have a steady hand and some patience this works really well (at least for me). Please take into consideration that it is written from an indie perspective, like how most people figure out how to do things by themselves. Some might like it, some don't and have their own ways. What this method solves is that you have one hand on the lcd, so you have the other free to remove the cables now that you have more space to reach.

The reason why I think most people put it on it's back is because of the tilting, which if prevented creates a very stable working-table for the iMac itself. If you take these things apart, you also get a kind of feeling how they must have put it together in the factory. I don't think they did that by putting them on their backs, but more like a conveyer of assembly. Again, that's my take but it works for me. Just put two pots underneath, stabalize it and take it slow. That's probably what counts most, how you prepare to take it on slow and steady.
 
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Using the more fluid MX-4 is a mess on the board and it is used to make contact between a ceramic GPU top and a metal heat sink. It is not simply about numbers, it is about the material used and the gaps to be expected. MX-4 makes a thin film, but the sink is not made for the these cards and the gaps can be between half a millimeter and two millimeters for different modules. K5 is perfect to gap all those different distances - except for the GPU.

The S7100X is (like the W6170M) a nightmare in the iMac12,2 system. NVRAM corruption on cold boot, and broken sleep/wake.

No brightness control on all systems...
If you find yourself in the ditch of upgrading your GPU with an AMD WX 41xx card, than make sure you have the chops to create your own copper plate(s) of 0.5mm to fill those gaps.

I personally didn't choose for K5 PRO due to it's price here in Holland (35 incl shipment), as that's about 1/3 of the AMD-card's price. I opted for Artic Silver Cooling Pads (1.5mm) that work just fine, and used MX-4 for the GPU.

Below is a before and after picture, where the original GPU had really good thermal patches that were still "wet" (like K5 probably) after 10 yrs. I had put AS5 on the GPU before but I say that's one of the reasons why it burnt through; the paste is conductive* to a degree that MX-4 does not suffer from due to it's synthetic ceramic base.

The way I check if I applied enough thermal paste or if the pads even touch is by doing a "dry mount" with no thermal paste to see if everything would fit nicely since it's not an original card. This way I could already press the patches firmly against the heatsink, and see the imprint of what I could cut away as access. Better too much than too little.
IMG_0400.JPG
IMG_0399.JPG
 
If you find yourself in the ditch of upgrading your GPU with an AMD WX 41xx card, than make sure you have the chops to create your own copper plate(s) of 0.5mm to fill those gaps.

I personally didn't choose for K5 PRO due to it's price here in Holland (35 incl shipment), as that's about 1/3 of the AMD-card's price. I opted for Artic Silver Cooling Pads (1.5mm) that work just fine, and used MX-4 for the GPU.

Below is a before and after picture, where the original GPU had really good thermal patches that were still "wet" (like K5 probably) after 10 yrs. I had put AS5 on the GPU before but I say that's one of the reasons why it burnt through; the paste is conductive* to a degree that MX-4 does not suffer from due to it's synthetic ceramic base.

The way I check if I applied enough thermal paste or if the pads even touch is by doing a "dry mount" with no thermal paste to see if everything would fit nicely since it's not an original card. This way I could already press the patches firmly against the heatsink, and see the imprint of what I could cut away as access. Better too much than too little.
View attachment 2015291View attachment 2015292
DIY Copper Plates are certainly an option if you already have a bunch of .5mm copper sheets lying around and are in the mood to shape them by hand, but do keep in mind that pre-made .5mm copper plates meant for GPUs are sold online for a very low price, so this is not strictly necessary if you don't want to do it yourself (or risk getting cut on the sharp metal edge.)

Regarding the "jam jar technique", I've done something similar to work on my iMac while it is upright: I take a small cardboard box and wedge it between the stand and the back of the iMac to keep it from moving. I think that the jars accomplish essentially the same goal, but might be a little riskier as they seem like they have a greater potential to slip out from underneath the iMac. iFixit actually sells a foam wedge that is specially designed to fit in this area behind the iMac to aid in servicing, so I do think that working on the iMac while upright is a legitimate strategy.
 
Hi,

I just bought this AMD FirePro M5100 but I’m not so sure if it is really a M5100 because in the main chip it says “216-0846000” and all the M5100 I’ve seen before say “216-0848000”. Could someone guide me if it is a really M5100?

I also noticed this card has SAMSUNG memory (519 K4G20325FD FC04) and I didn’t find any BIOS for this memory brand. Is there a specific BIOS version for SAMSUNG or which BIOS should I flash?

Thanks in advance
 

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This is weird since Mojave was never supported on these iMacs. Using the old GPU you can follow the upgrade visually while most metal GPUs will show only a black screen during this part until the beep sound happens and the system finally reboots.

Sometimes the update does not happen on the first attempt for an unknown reason.

And you should not copy a firmware from one machine and write it to another, iCloud conflicts will follow using the same firmware/serial combination on more than one system. There are ways to change the serial back, but it is beyond this thread.
I have a query i still have issues with the wx4130 card getting delayed boot up and my boot rom is updated to 87.0.0.0.0 what I want to know is that when the chime comes do we get display like the orignal or when the apple logo and progress bar comes.
Another question do we have to install any other program or firmware like OLCP or something as this is my 4th day of struggle with the cards.
Thanks again
 
I have a query i still have issues with the wx4130 card getting delayed boot up and my boot rom is updated to 87.0.0.0.0 what I want to know is that when the chime comes do we get display like the orignal or when the apple logo and progress bar comes.
Another question do we have to install any other program or firmware like OLCP or something as this is my 4th day of struggle with the cards.
Thanks again
Yes, you have to install OCLP ---this will resolve the delayed boot up problem
 
Hi, I put the AMD s7100x video card, flashed the GOP BIOS and installed the open core.
on macOS works perfectly, but on windows I can not install any drivers for gpu. has anyone encountered this problem? is this a bios or video card problem?
iMac 11.1 27 i7-860 s7100x
 

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Hi, I put the AMD s7100x video card, flashed the GOP BIOS and installed the open core.
on macOS works perfectly, but on windows I can not install any drivers for gpu. has anyone encountered this problem? is this a bios or video card problem?
iMac 11.1 27 i7-860 s7100x

What do you mean by "can not install"?
(1) You couldn't find the drive online; or
(2) Windows didn't find and install the driver itself.

If your case is (2), please check the below link (AMD official link)
 
Using the more fluid MX-4 is a mess on the board and it is used to make contact between a ceramic GPU top and a metal heat sink. It is not simply about numbers, it is about the material used and the gaps to be expected. MX-4 makes a thin film, but the sink is not made for the these cards and the gaps can be between half a millimeter and two millimeters for different modules. K5 is perfect to gap all those different distances - except for the GPU.

The S7100X is (like the W6170M) a nightmare in the iMac12,2 system. NVRAM corruption on cold boot, and broken sleep/wake.

No brightness control on all systems...
? More fluid mx-4?
Really?
Fluid?
 
? More fluid mx-4?
Really?
Fluid?
Yes, it means it flows more. MX-4 is meant to fill minor gaps between GPU die and uneven heatsink surface (to remedy the drawbacks of the non-perfect thermal contact). K5 Pro will fill a wider void between RAM ICs and the heatsink (those are not meant to and do not make perfect contact). These compounds have different consistencies and while both will probably harden over time, MX-4 may flow out of that wider void before it does so (if used on RAM ICs).

By the way, there is no need to mock non-native speakers. Many of us on this thread are such. If you feel like a recent Dutch engineer (and do not need a manual), please feel free to experiment and do let us know if/once you find a better solution.
 
What do you mean by "can not install"?
(1) You couldn't find the drive online; or
(2) Windows didn't find and install the driver itself.

If your case is (2), please check the below link (AMD official link)
thanks for the answer :)
1. I tried different drivers, even modified. They are not installed.
2. Windows installed the base video adapter.
I'll try to install another Windows.

if someone finds a solution faster, unsubscribe
 

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? More fluid mx-4?
Really?
Fluid?
Fluid (adjective) does not describe an absolute state, even glass is considered to be a fluid (noun) and is fluid (adjective) or liquid, with a really different viscosity compared to the fluid (noun) we see and experience most of the day. You could have learned those things back in school, and you could have noticed differences of different fluids (noun)

Since we have wikipedia I do not need to cite a text book any longer in case you want to fill the gaps in knowledge and experience.

P.S. Both fluid and liquid can be used to as an adjective in english language, in case you never noticed.
 
The only problem you will have is using High Sierra. The vBIOS is not compatible with High Sierra unless you connect an additional external display! So please borrow such a display just for the installation time and connect it on boot.

OCLP can be installed after the GPU change.
Excuse me again, if you install Monterey and Win10 with OCLP first, then divide 200mb to OCLP and then replace the RX480, is it possible to use an external monitor?
I would like to ask whether the RX480 rear bracket uses a 6770m bracket or a 6970m bracket?
Can I use the original HD5750 heatsink? Installed to the case with a 6970m heat sink and found that something will be stuck
 
Seeing that Black Apple's Pascal gtx1080 big sur 11.6.3 monterey 12.2 WEB driver can be driven properly, is it perhaps possible on the iMac as well?
 

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