DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[balika011]

I have some good news!
On the R1811 AL16 can be set to SD0, AK17 to SCK and AK18 to WS.
The AK17 and AK18 directly connect to the UART header. (Red on top right)
AL16 connects to the headphone jack.
So we would loose headphone insertion detection, but who cares? We could have digital audio output!

 

[balika011]

Nobody here has R9A18 docs and R9A18 / R1811 firmwares? That's really unfortunate.

 

[Xarl-li]

Well, I could finally add the support for a compatible USB camera without drivers, 5MPX work really well and have AF, i have also added a USB microphone in the original space.
The Thingierse link has the support for the camera, for its plate, and also the support and cover for the USB micro. I have to add the switch to remove the 5V of both modules and leave them completely disconnected from the system, when I find a switch of my liking that fits me in the space of the old hole of the RJ45, I will update the link.


Thingierse STL


Camera 5Mpx
Microphone USB A

Link for STL

 

[Xarl-li]

These days need to work with the open panel until the camera support is polished, so I am forced to make some feet for the separate panel. Use hollow m10 rods of 1mtr cut to 64.5cm. I leave the STL in case someone needs it.

Pannel Support on Table STL link

 

[shijan]

So i ordered JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 from GIVIFENI Store for surprisingly low cost $102.82. Will let you know in about two weeks if it is fake or real deal.

This GIVIFENI Store shipped to me different lower cost board JRY-W9UHD-NV2 4K@60Hz board instead of JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 4K@144Hz

 

[balika011]

This GIVIFENI Store shipped to me different lower cost board JRY-W9UHD-NV2 4K@60Hz board instead of LM270WRA-SSA1

Is the heatsink glued? It would be nice if you cold check the what chip it has on the board for us.

 

[shijan]

Heatsink is glued, but from specs on this page https://www.globalsources.com/LCD-controller/UHD-monitor-controller-board-1204275027p.htm it use MStar MST9U13 chip.
It is 12V only board. With 5.5x2.1 sized DC connector (not a 5.5x2.5). 3xHDMI 1xDP.

I still want to believe that it could be a seller mistake, because first i asked seller about this low cost board, and then after some additional communication i ordered another board. I'll ask for refund or replacement tomorrow. Included cables are exactly same as i asked. Can't test firmware yet because panel didn't arrive yet.

By the way, i find many local sellers that sell JRY boards without cables and their description says that it is universal board. So is it possible that all these JRY boards with default firmware don't need any special firmware version for each display model, but only need compatible cables kit?

Here are large photos. Overall quality looks OK.

 

[balika011]

So is it possible that all these JRY boards with default firmware don't need any special firmware version for each display model, but only need compatible cables kit?

That's unlikely, as every panel has different specs, and they aren't stored on the panel itself.
By specs I mean resolution, timing, command set, voltage etc.
Even the protocol isn't the same, as some uses eDP others use V by One (VBO/VB1) and the older ones need LVDS.
Ones made for mobile / tablet usage use MIPI DSI.

 

[PaulD-UK]

shijan said:
"So is it possible that all these JRY boards with default firmware don't need any special firmware version for each display model, but only need compatible cables kit?"

I agree with this. I don't think the wider AliEx/Taobao retail supply chain is organised with vendors who can develop or support custom firmwares.

@balika011 "By specs I mean resolution, timing, command set, voltage etc.
Even the protocol isn't the same, as some uses eDP others use V by One (VBO/VB1) and the older ones need LVDS.
Ones made for mobile / tablet usage use MIPI DSI."

The boards that are of interest in this forum, for DIY conversions, only use eDP (although there may be VbyOne functionality also built into the board).
RealTek and MediaTek don't release the data sheets for their chips to anyone but their partner board manufacturers, so the information needed for using the SDKs is closely guarded.

I think when JRY make the boards they are flashed with a basic 4K firmware that will allow them to work with any appropriate 4K panel, to give a test image on the panel.
Chiyakeji may make their boards for a wholesaler who specifies appropriate RealTek SDK custom firmware.

Because all the 5K boards (or Apple-compatible 4096x2304 '4'K) use chipsets originally designed for UHD 4K, and to make them work at 5K these select few wholesalers have developed the custom firmware needed to get 5K (or '4'K).
And at least one of these sellers can provide support and alternative firmwares...

 

[jorycz]

@DaveF did you ever get response about R1811 firmware update, that would resolve this DDC issue? I assume it was you who also wrote to Better Display developer about brightness issue.

For reference, in case anyone searches for this in the future:

R1811 v4 driver board
DisplayMonitor and BetterDisplay Pro apps

Set DDC value range maximum value to 31 (30 - 33) to get maximum backlight for maximum macOS brightness setting. This enables the backlight to be commanded from 30 to ~100. This driver board cannot be DDC commanded to below 30: the 0 - 29 range can only be commanded with its OSD in the firmware controls. And if you set a level below 30, commanding brightness with the apps will jump it back up to 30 minimum.

This has been tested for HDMI, USB-C and DisplayPort inputs to the R1811. It's been tested for multiple PCM color settings.

I haven't found any better settings for contrast or neutral values in the apps.

If anyone has contact with the board developers, this would be a great firmware improvement for a v5 especially if that could be distributed for user upgrades.

Detailed discussion here.

How to set min / max range for LCD backlight level (0 to 100, not 0 to 255) · waydabber BetterDisplay · Discussion #3845

Have an iMac 2017 27" conversion with the R1811 driver board. I use HDMI, running 5K and 10 bit color. The R1811 firmware supports Backlight levels from 0 to 100. BetterDisplay drives it from 30 to...

github.com

View attachment 2468041

 

[balika011]

The boards that are of interest in this forum, for DIY conversions, only use eDP (although there may be VbyOne functionality also built into the board).
I think when JRY make the boards they are flashed with a basic 4K firmware that will allow them to work with any appropriate 4K panel, to give a test image on the panel.

True, these are all eDP. However even if it's all eDP and even use same the commands you still need the correct timing. True, in some cases the panels may display an image even if the timing is off.
If i would see "universal board" for me that would mean I can connect any panel and it would just work. That's definitely not the case. Even between the LG 4K and 5K panels.

These being designed for 4K isn't really true. These are designed to push data in a particular pixel clock rate range.
Dell G3223D, Razer 27 165Hz: 1440p, uses RTD2717Q
Razer 27 144Hz: 1440p and has RTD2797UPM inside.

 

[balika011]

@PaulD-UK I keep adding docs and tools to my repo.
You might be interested in these:
LM315WR7-SSA1_Ver1.0_20241024_202505294018.pdf
LM270QQ2-SPA3 Rev1.3 Spec Sheet.pdf
RTD2718Q_Brief_Spec.pdf
RTD2797UPM.pdf

An LM315WR7-SSA1 is on the way to me. 4K 32" panel, released this year to the market.
I'll be installing it into a Dell G3223D.
I'll plan on publishing 3d printable adapters and a patched firmware to make the panel work with it's original board.
The pinouts of this panel is the same as the original LM315WQ1-SSB1, so it should be pretty much a drop in replacement.
The firmware can be updated with the RTDCustomerTool over display port, so that should be one of the easier conversions.
Ofc that panel can be used with other boards as well, if you have the right firmware for it.

I also plan on publishing adapters and firmwares for the Razer 27 to replace the original panel with LM270QQ2-SPA3.
These will be my main displays.

I plan on making an adapter that takes USB-C @ USB HS and DP 1.4 and coverts it into DP 1.2 + USB-C DP 1.2 alt mode.
This is due to the monitor only having a single DP 1.2 connector on it and I want to convince the monitor to use the DP and USB-C in dual link.

Ofc if I had the 165Hz version I would have no issues what so ever, it has DP1.4 already.

 

[Jack2010]

OT... baby iMac monitor was born 😎

 

[shijan]

This GIVIFENI Store shipped to me different lower cost board JRY-W9UHD-NV2 4K@60Hz board instead of JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 4K@144Hz

GIVIFENI confirmed that they send me wrong model. Now i am thinking maybe keep this low cost board for test purposes and asked them:
"Is it possible to connect this board to other panel without changes in firmware?"
GIVIFENI reply:
"Can connect to other screens"

They also ask to test this board with my panel. Guess without real life test they are not sure if it really will work with this newest panel

 

[shijan]

@PaulD-UK I keep adding docs and tools to my repo.
You might be interested in these:
LM315WR7-SSA1_Ver1.0_20241024_202505294018.pdf
LM270QQ2-SPA3 Rev1.3 Spec Sheet.pdf
RTD2718Q_Brief_Spec.pdf
RTD2797UPM.pdf

An LM315WR7-SSA1 is on the way to me. 4K 32" panel, released this year to the market.
I'll be installing it into a Dell G3223D.

Yes, that's the same newest 120Hz panel generation as 27" LM270WRA-SSA1 with 3000:1 contrast ratio (2400:1 in reality). By the way, any idea where to find datasheet for LM270WRA-SSA1 ?

 

[balika011]

Yes, that's the same newest 120Hz panel generation as 27" LM270WRA-SSA1 with 3000:1 contrast ratio (2400:1 in reality). By the way, any idea where to find datasheet for LM270WRA-SSA1 ?

Panellook has it, but it's pretty pricey to download from there.
I'll try to get it.

 

[balika011]

Yes, that's the same newest 120Hz panel generation as 27" LM270WRA-SSA1 with 3000:1 contrast ratio (2400:1 in reality). By the way, any idea where to find datasheet for LM270WRA-SSA1 ?

Here you go: LM270WRA-SSA1_Ver1.0_20241016_202505298429.pdf

 

[PaulD-UK]

@t1ppy
"I saw the power supply you used (CFM130M240-C) and think it looks like a great choice and just wanted to ask a couple of quick questions if you don't mind. Would you still recommend it?

I can't find the version with a cage in stock, only the open board version of the Cincon, do you think that would cause any issues?"

My Cincon PSU has been in use more or less daily use for over two years, with absolutely no problems.
I recently found a couple more CFM130S240-C (single output) versions from Mouser, who shipped them to me from Texas...
So they are still my #1 choice, and I still recommend them as being very good for the job, and nice and small.

But, I don't power a laptop from my monitor, and it might be the Cincom PSUs don't provide quite enough power if you need to connect to a laptop, and use it for a power supply.

The reason I prefer the cased version is that because it is encapsulated in thermal paste there is less likelihood of the PSU making a noise while in standby. It is absolutely quiet.

But the uncased version is exactly the same electronically, so should perform as well.

Good luck if you do your own conversion.

Paul.

 

[t1ppy]

@t1ppy
"I saw the power supply you used (CFM130M240-C) and think it looks like a great choice and just wanted to ask a couple of quick questions if you don't mind. Would you still recommend it?

I can't find the version with a cage in stock, only the open board version of the Cincon, do you think that would cause any issues?"

My Cincom PSU has been in use more or less daily use for over two years, with absolutely no problems.
I recently found a couple more CFM130S240-C (single output) versions from Mouser, who shipped them to me from Texas...
So they are still my #1 choice, and I still recommend them as being very good for the job, and nice and small.

But, I don't power a laptop from my monitor, and it might be the Cincom PSUs don't provide quite enough power if you need to connect to a laptop, and use it for a power supply.

The reason I prefer the cased version is that because it is encapsulated in thermal paste there is less likelihood of the PSU making a noise while in standby. It is absolutely quiet.

But the uncased version is exactly the same electronically, so should perform as well.

Good luck if you do your own conversion.

Paul.

Thanks Paul, I've already stripped my 2017 Imac. Just in the process of ordering parts, planning for R1811, DZ-LP0818 and using the mac speakers with crossovers. I won't be using Laptop power either.
Apologies for not just posting in the thread, but I've been reading the entire thing, currently up to page 42 and it felt rude to post until I was all the way through.

 

[balika011]

Thanks Paul, I've already stripped my 2017 Imac. Just in the process of ordering parts, planning for R1811, DZ-LP0818 and using the mac speakers with crossovers. I won't be using Laptop power either.
Apologies for not just posting in the thread, but I've been reading the entire thing, currently up to page 42 and it felt rude to post until I was all the way through.

That's not rude. Just nature of forums with 100+ pages. If you feel like taking notes, we can make a FAQ section in the first post, reducing the repetition in the thread.

 

[t1ppy]

That's not rude. Just nature of forums with 100+ pages. If you feel like taking notes, we can make a FAQ section in the first post, reducing the repetition in the thread.

I'm taking notes of what seems relevant, I'll share it when I'm done

 

[shijan]

Finally panel arrived and i done some tests with JRY-W9UHD-NV2. It outputs 60Hz 8-bit. It don't have P3 preset, so when use it with wide gamut panel, it require calibration. Or at least you can set default Display-P3 ICC profile in macOS system settings to avoid oversaturation. I powered it from 12V 3A power supply. Connectors: 1xDP1.2 1xHDMI2.0 2xHDMI1.4. Heatsink feels hot, so it require decent airflow.
So overall it is a low cost board for basic sRGB 8-bit panels.

 

[djjoshep]

EDIT: I plugged one of the cables the wrong way!

Need help with JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1. I purchased it from Stonetaskin (https://stonetaskin.com/products/st...60hz-10bites-5120x2880?variant=45583488778394) and everything seems to be plugged in correctly as my computer recognizes the monitor. But the problem is the display is not powering on. It was working before I disassembled it so I know it works. Is it possible I damaged it when I was disassembling the iMac? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

[djjoshep]

Has anyone had success with the Stonetaskin kit with the crossover kit(JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1)? I was able to get audio through the built in iMac speakers with the crossover kit to produce audio (https://stonetaskin.com/products/st...60hz-10bites-5120x2880?variant=45583488778394) but I am unable to get the volume control to work with BetterDisplay or through the OSD. It's only one volume and mute/unmute.

 

[kevinherring]

Hi all, I am in the process of converting a 21.5" 4K 2017 iMac with a R9513 v5. The screen works fine when I plug my Nvidia Shield into one of the HDMI ports - the picture pops up immediately. However, I cannot get either of the DisplayPorts to work or be detected. I have tried two cables (one USB-C to Displayport, one regular DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable), and two systems (my 2024 Macbook Air and a Windows computer). I just get a message on the screen (in Chinese) saying nothing is detected and it will go to sleep in a minute. I've converted 3 x 27" displays and never had any problems, but this is my first 4k one.

Any ideas as to what I could try to troubleshoot?