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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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@djjoshep Did you allow Better Display to configure your FA1 board's Hardware DDC control?
BD drop menu>Hardware Control> Configure DDC controls> Detect DDC Capabilities>Auto Configure DDC Features.
This will report the way the FA1 will respond to DDC controls.
If you did this, and the Audio levels are not controllable from the Mac's keyboard, then the JRY firmware (on any of their boards) isn't capable of allowing full DDC adjustments...
A reported workaround is to use the free version of eqMac to control the audio volume.
BD drop menu>Hardware Control> Configure DDC controls> Detect DDC Capabilities>Auto Configure DDC Features.
This will report the way the FA1 will respond to DDC controls.
If you did this, and the Audio levels are not controllable from the Mac's keyboard, then the JRY firmware (on any of their boards) isn't capable of allowing full DDC adjustments...
A reported workaround is to use the free version of eqMac to control the audio volume.
Yep, the only real menu option is to select DDCCI on/off and input select (Auto, DP1, DP2, HDMI1, HDMI2). I have of course tried the auto option and manually selecting either of the DPs. Also tried turning DDCI on and off to no avail... I've tried using Better Display as well, just in case that has some additional detection. It's bizarre!
Mowgli10L - I know you used this board (multiple times!). Did you experience anything like this?
Hello everyone on this forum. I'm new but thanks to this forum I managed to remodel the iMac 27 "to the monitor. I have R1811 v.4 HDMI 2.1 and I use Macmini M4. But I need advice on what cable I need USB-C to MacMini M4. Thank you for your help. Excuse my bad English language
@Pabo49
Any USB-C to USB-C 5K or 4K/120Hz monitor cable will work. But most USB-C cables are data cables, so it has to carry video as well, so the specifications of the cable has to mention it is suitable for Alt-mode DP video, at 8K or 4K/120Hz .
The best way to get a proper cable is to buy a Thunderbolt 3/4 cable, because they all do video.
Or you can use a USB-C to DisplayPort 1.4 8K adapter cable, and connect to a DP input port.
This has the advantage that you can buy cable latching versions, which have a DP plug that clips in, and can't fall out
Any USB-C to USB-C 5K or 4K/120Hz monitor cable will work. But most USB-C cables are data cables, so it has to carry video as well, so the specifications of the cable has to mention it is suitable for Alt-mode DP video, at 8K or 4K/120Hz .
The best way to get a proper cable is to buy a Thunderbolt 3/4 cable, because they all do video.
Or you can use a USB-C to DisplayPort 1.4 8K adapter cable, and connect to a DP input port.
This has the advantage that you can buy cable latching versions, which have a DP plug that clips in, and can't fall out
I have used my display now for about a week and a half playing video games and movies. I have added an P3 color profile and I run it at 10bits HDR over an DP 1.4 cable from my Win 11 PC with an RTX 3080Ti. I am very happy I have the R1811 card with a full 24V power supply as I have no issues with background light or other display anomalies reported by some users.
My setup is; original iMac 2017 speakers, original iMac 2017 PSU. I added a 12V to 24V step-up converter & 15A automatic fuse from Amazon and the cross-over filters that StoneTaskin provides. I also disregarded the "replacement" adhesive kit from Amazon and went for real Chinese made "3M" foam tape which very closely mimics the original Apple foam tape. See a full image of my setup just before I attached the display here:
I did re-use the built-in power button as well, cutting its wire just after it leaves the left speaker, then soldering on an extension cable that is then soldered onto the power button on the control board, effectively leaving me with two options for turning on and off the monitor (the original power button and the control board power button).
I also shorted the remaining power switch lead that is connected to the original PSU, effectively faking a continuously pressed power button for the PSU to detect. I wrapped the control board in shrink wrap to avoid and electrical contact and to make it slightly more usable. It hangs down beneath the monitor and is easily accessible where I sit. See a close-up of it here:
.
The extension cables for DP, HDMI, USB C and the control board are routed through a hole I dremeled in the ventilation grille. The hole is hidden by the VESA stand (see detail image here:
)
I used these products:
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B088ZMK5SF Opening tool + completely useless adhesives which I did not use
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B08LBZ8KGL "3M" foam tape
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DJT18MGV USB C extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0BG76RM65 12V to 24V step-up converter, I oversized it to "480 chinese Watts" because I understood they get very hot if you load them at full capacity, mine does not even heat up the display.
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B09248MY72 15A automatic circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0D7GY7LZH HDMI 4K extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DMTKGJL5 DP 8K extension cable
various XT60 connectors to make simple the connections between step-up converter and original Apple PSU and the auto fuse.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0160BQA06 VESA Mount adapter (note require original monitor stand to be removed, see https://ohmypizza.com/2023/06/vesa-mounting-the-imac-5k-external-display for instructions how to fit this VESA adapter)
I would truly recommend the R1811 V4 card as it is silent and a clear winner in display quality using a P3 color profile. Also, the 24V input with a beefy enough PSU eliminates the need for a constant power driver board for the backlighting.
I have one issue with my installation and that is if I stand up from my seat, the screen turns off for just a second and then back on. I do not even touch anything except air. I have tried waving my arms and pushing air in front of the screen but nothing happens, but if I stand up from my chair the screen goes black and the green LED from the control board goes red, and then back to green and the display comes back on. I have not figured out why and so far I am guessing it is some kind of proximity sensor built into the iMac that tells the original PSU to shutdown, but because I have hardwired the original power button to be constantly on it is "pressing" it back on thus resuming function. Any ideas here as to what could cause the temporary black screen by just standing up in front of the screen?
My setup is; original iMac 2017 speakers, original iMac 2017 PSU. I added a 12V to 24V step-up converter & 15A automatic fuse from Amazon and the cross-over filters that StoneTaskin provides. I also disregarded the "replacement" adhesive kit from Amazon and went for real Chinese made "3M" foam tape which very closely mimics the original Apple foam tape. See a full image of my setup just before I attached the display here:
I did re-use the built-in power button as well, cutting its wire just after it leaves the left speaker, then soldering on an extension cable that is then soldered onto the power button on the control board, effectively leaving me with two options for turning on and off the monitor (the original power button and the control board power button).
I also shorted the remaining power switch lead that is connected to the original PSU, effectively faking a continuously pressed power button for the PSU to detect. I wrapped the control board in shrink wrap to avoid and electrical contact and to make it slightly more usable. It hangs down beneath the monitor and is easily accessible where I sit. See a close-up of it here:
.The extension cables for DP, HDMI, USB C and the control board are routed through a hole I dremeled in the ventilation grille. The hole is hidden by the VESA stand (see detail image here:
)I used these products:
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B088ZMK5SF Opening tool + completely useless adhesives which I did not use
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B08LBZ8KGL "3M" foam tape
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DJT18MGV USB C extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0BG76RM65 12V to 24V step-up converter, I oversized it to "480 chinese Watts" because I understood they get very hot if you load them at full capacity, mine does not even heat up the display.
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B09248MY72 15A automatic circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0D7GY7LZH HDMI 4K extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DMTKGJL5 DP 8K extension cable
various XT60 connectors to make simple the connections between step-up converter and original Apple PSU and the auto fuse.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0160BQA06 VESA Mount adapter (note require original monitor stand to be removed, see https://ohmypizza.com/2023/06/vesa-mounting-the-imac-5k-external-display for instructions how to fit this VESA adapter)
I would truly recommend the R1811 V4 card as it is silent and a clear winner in display quality using a P3 color profile. Also, the 24V input with a beefy enough PSU eliminates the need for a constant power driver board for the backlighting.
I have one issue with my installation and that is if I stand up from my seat, the screen turns off for just a second and then back on. I do not even touch anything except air. I have tried waving my arms and pushing air in front of the screen but nothing happens, but if I stand up from my chair the screen goes black and the green LED from the control board goes red, and then back to green and the display comes back on. I have not figured out why and so far I am guessing it is some kind of proximity sensor built into the iMac that tells the original PSU to shutdown, but because I have hardwired the original power button to be constantly on it is "pressing" it back on thus resuming function. Any ideas here as to what could cause the temporary black screen by just standing up in front of the screen?
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Hey everyone!
So, I just updated the GPT and it's pretty helpful.
The only issue so far is that the links will direct you to the correct page within the thread but not the specific post.
Here's a link:
----------
Personal Update
I just finished my 21.5" “just get the display working with this $30 board” experiment, and it went smoothly.
That said, I really hate the idea of dropping over $250 on an R1811 board. I’m hoping to find a used one for cheap on eBay. But honestly, it seems like I’ll have to bite the bullet and spend the $280. If anyone has an R1811 board to sell for around $100, let me know!
What else, what else....
Nothing like procrastination, right?
So, I just updated the GPT and it's pretty helpful.
The only issue so far is that the links will direct you to the correct page within the thread but not the specific post.
Here's a link:
----------
Personal Update
I just finished my 21.5" “just get the display working with this $30 board” experiment, and it went smoothly.
That said, I really hate the idea of dropping over $250 on an R1811 board. I’m hoping to find a used one for cheap on eBay. But honestly, it seems like I’ll have to bite the bullet and spend the $280. If anyone has an R1811 board to sell for around $100, let me know!
What else, what else....
Nothing like procrastination, right?
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Hey - I just finished my project and have various components from the old 27" iMac leftover - logic board/ram/psu/speakers/fan etc. I can just throw it away but it seems like a waste. Anyone got any tips on a straightforward way to give this to someone who might actually have use for it? Or is it just going to the eWaste box?
Got lucky today and snagged a late 2015 retina iMac at my local electronics recycler for $40.
Anything I need to make it work other than a R1811 V4 control board, anppropriate power supply, and a Thunderbolt cable? Do I need a separate backlight control board, or does the v4 handle that well enough?
I’ve got a camera module from a raspberry pi I might fiddle around with and put where the factory webcam is, but I’m not concerned about the speakers working as I have external speakers anyway.
Just want it to turn on and look good.
Anything I need to make it work other than a R1811 V4 control board, anppropriate power supply, and a Thunderbolt cable? Do I need a separate backlight control board, or does the v4 handle that well enough?
I’ve got a camera module from a raspberry pi I might fiddle around with and put where the factory webcam is, but I’m not concerned about the speakers working as I have external speakers anyway.
Just want it to turn on and look good.
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