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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
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@djjoshep Did you allow Better Display to configure your FA1 board's Hardware DDC control?
BD drop menu>Hardware Control> Configure DDC controls> Detect DDC Capabilities>Auto Configure DDC Features.
This will report the way the FA1 will respond to DDC controls.
If you did this, and the Audio levels are not controllable from the Mac's keyboard, then the JRY firmware (on any of their boards) isn't capable of allowing full DDC adjustments...
A reported workaround is to use the free version of eqMac to control the audio volume.
BD drop menu>Hardware Control> Configure DDC controls> Detect DDC Capabilities>Auto Configure DDC Features.
This will report the way the FA1 will respond to DDC controls.
If you did this, and the Audio levels are not controllable from the Mac's keyboard, then the JRY firmware (on any of their boards) isn't capable of allowing full DDC adjustments...
A reported workaround is to use the free version of eqMac to control the audio volume.
Yep, the only real menu option is to select DDCCI on/off and input select (Auto, DP1, DP2, HDMI1, HDMI2). I have of course tried the auto option and manually selecting either of the DPs. Also tried turning DDCI on and off to no avail... I've tried using Better Display as well, just in case that has some additional detection. It's bizarre!
Mowgli10L - I know you used this board (multiple times!). Did you experience anything like this?
Hello everyone on this forum. I'm new but thanks to this forum I managed to remodel the iMac 27 "to the monitor. I have R1811 v.4 HDMI 2.1 and I use Macmini M4. But I need advice on what cable I need USB-C to MacMini M4. Thank you for your help. Excuse my bad English language
@Pabo49
Any USB-C to USB-C 5K or 4K/120Hz monitor cable will work. But most USB-C cables are data cables, so it has to carry video as well, so the specifications of the cable has to mention it is suitable for Alt-mode DP video, at 8K or 4K/120Hz .
The best way to get a proper cable is to buy a Thunderbolt 3/4 cable, because they all do video.
Or you can use a USB-C to DisplayPort 1.4 8K adapter cable, and connect to a DP input port.
This has the advantage that you can buy cable latching versions, which have a DP plug that clips in, and can't fall out
Any USB-C to USB-C 5K or 4K/120Hz monitor cable will work. But most USB-C cables are data cables, so it has to carry video as well, so the specifications of the cable has to mention it is suitable for Alt-mode DP video, at 8K or 4K/120Hz .
The best way to get a proper cable is to buy a Thunderbolt 3/4 cable, because they all do video.
Or you can use a USB-C to DisplayPort 1.4 8K adapter cable, and connect to a DP input port.
This has the advantage that you can buy cable latching versions, which have a DP plug that clips in, and can't fall out
I have used my display now for about a week and a half playing video games and movies. I have added an P3 color profile and I run it at 10bits HDR over an DP 1.4 cable from my Win 11 PC with an RTX 3080Ti. I am very happy I have the R1811 card with a full 24V power supply as I have no issues with background light or other display anomalies reported by some users.
My setup is; original iMac 2017 speakers, original iMac 2017 PSU. I added a 12V to 24V step-up converter & 15A automatic fuse from Amazon and the cross-over filters that StoneTaskin provides. I also disregarded the "replacement" adhesive kit from Amazon and went for real Chinese made "3M" foam tape which very closely mimics the original Apple foam tape. See a full image of my setup just before I attached the display here:
I did re-use the built-in power button as well, cutting its wire just after it leaves the left speaker, then soldering on an extension cable that is then soldered onto the power button on the control board, effectively leaving me with two options for turning on and off the monitor (the original power button and the control board power button).
I also shorted the remaining power switch lead that is connected to the original PSU, effectively faking a continuously pressed power button for the PSU to detect. I wrapped the control board in shrink wrap to avoid any electrical contact and to make it slightly more usable. It hangs down beneath the monitor and is easily accessible where I sit. See a close-up of it here:
.
The extension cables for DP, HDMI, USB C and the control board are routed through a hole I dremeled in the ventilation grille. The hole is hidden by the VESA stand (see detail image here:
)
I used these products:
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B088ZMK5SF Opening tool + completely useless adhesives which I did not use
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B08LBZ8KGL "3M" foam tape
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DJT18MGV USB C extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0BG76RM65 12V to 24V step-up converter, I oversized it to "480 chinese Watts" because I understood they get very hot if you load them at full capacity, mine does not even heat up the display.
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B09248MY72 15A automatic circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0D7GY7LZH HDMI 4K extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DMTKGJL5 DP 8K extension cable
various XT60 connectors to make simple the connections between step-up converter and original Apple PSU and the auto fuse.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0160BQA06 VESA Mount adapter (note require original monitor stand to be removed, see https://ohmypizza.com/2023/06/vesa-mounting-the-imac-5k-external-display for instructions how to fit this VESA adapter)
I would truly recommend the R1811 V4 card as it is silent and a clear winner in display quality using a P3 color profile. Also, the 24V input with a beefy enough PSU eliminates the need for a constant power driver board for the backlighting.
My setup is; original iMac 2017 speakers, original iMac 2017 PSU. I added a 12V to 24V step-up converter & 15A automatic fuse from Amazon and the cross-over filters that StoneTaskin provides. I also disregarded the "replacement" adhesive kit from Amazon and went for real Chinese made "3M" foam tape which very closely mimics the original Apple foam tape. See a full image of my setup just before I attached the display here:
I did re-use the built-in power button as well, cutting its wire just after it leaves the left speaker, then soldering on an extension cable that is then soldered onto the power button on the control board, effectively leaving me with two options for turning on and off the monitor (the original power button and the control board power button).
I also shorted the remaining power switch lead that is connected to the original PSU, effectively faking a continuously pressed power button for the PSU to detect. I wrapped the control board in shrink wrap to avoid any electrical contact and to make it slightly more usable. It hangs down beneath the monitor and is easily accessible where I sit. See a close-up of it here:
.The extension cables for DP, HDMI, USB C and the control board are routed through a hole I dremeled in the ventilation grille. The hole is hidden by the VESA stand (see detail image here:
)I used these products:
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B088ZMK5SF Opening tool + completely useless adhesives which I did not use
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B08LBZ8KGL "3M" foam tape
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DJT18MGV USB C extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0BG76RM65 12V to 24V step-up converter, I oversized it to "480 chinese Watts" because I understood they get very hot if you load them at full capacity, mine does not even heat up the display.
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B09248MY72 15A automatic circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0D7GY7LZH HDMI 4K extension cable
https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0DMTKGJL5 DP 8K extension cable
various XT60 connectors to make simple the connections between step-up converter and original Apple PSU and the auto fuse.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0160BQA06 VESA Mount adapter (note require original monitor stand to be removed, see https://ohmypizza.com/2023/06/vesa-mounting-the-imac-5k-external-display for instructions how to fit this VESA adapter)
I would truly recommend the R1811 V4 card as it is silent and a clear winner in display quality using a P3 color profile. Also, the 24V input with a beefy enough PSU eliminates the need for a constant power driver board for the backlighting.
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Hey everyone!
So, I just updated the GPT and it's pretty helpful.
The only issue so far is that the links will direct you to the correct page within the thread but not the specific post.
Here's a link:
----------
Personal Update
I just finished my 21.5" “just get the display working with this $30 board” experiment, and it went smoothly.
That said, I really hate the idea of dropping over $250 on an R1811 board. I’m hoping to find a used one for cheap on eBay. But honestly, it seems like I’ll have to bite the bullet and spend the $280. If anyone has an R1811 board to sell for around $100, let me know!
What else, what else....
Nothing like procrastination, right?
So, I just updated the GPT and it's pretty helpful.
The only issue so far is that the links will direct you to the correct page within the thread but not the specific post.
Here's a link:
----------
Personal Update
I just finished my 21.5" “just get the display working with this $30 board” experiment, and it went smoothly.
That said, I really hate the idea of dropping over $250 on an R1811 board. I’m hoping to find a used one for cheap on eBay. But honestly, it seems like I’ll have to bite the bullet and spend the $280. If anyone has an R1811 board to sell for around $100, let me know!
What else, what else....
Nothing like procrastination, right?
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Hey - I just finished my project and have various components from the old 27" iMac leftover - logic board/ram/psu/speakers/fan etc. I can just throw it away but it seems like a waste. Anyone got any tips on a straightforward way to give this to someone who might actually have use for it? Or is it just going to the eWaste box?
Got lucky today and snagged a late 2015 retina iMac at my local electronics recycler for $40.
Anything I need to make it work other than a R1811 V4 control board, anppropriate power supply, and a Thunderbolt cable? Do I need a separate backlight control board, or does the v4 handle that well enough?
I’ve got a camera module from a raspberry pi I might fiddle around with and put where the factory webcam is, but I’m not concerned about the speakers working as I have external speakers anyway.
Just want it to turn on and look good.
Anything I need to make it work other than a R1811 V4 control board, anppropriate power supply, and a Thunderbolt cable? Do I need a separate backlight control board, or does the v4 handle that well enough?
I’ve got a camera module from a raspberry pi I might fiddle around with and put where the factory webcam is, but I’m not concerned about the speakers working as I have external speakers anyway.
Just want it to turn on and look good.
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@obesechess "Anything I need to make it work other than a R1811 V4 control board, an appropriate power supply, and a Thunderbolt cable? Do I need a separate backlight control board, or does the v4 handle that well enough?"
The 2015 iMac's LM270QQ1 SD(B1) screen can develop 'pink edges' with age, and it only supports ~91% Display P3, and since you don't intend to use the iMac's speakers, you could get good results with the cheaper JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board as an alternative to the R1811 V4.
The major thing you would lose is an I/R remote control.
And a lower spec audio amplifier, which won't be a concern for you
However if you intend to use the HDMI input for 5K, with the HDMI 2.1 version of the R1811, then that is the one to go for.
The other advantage of the R1811 HDMI 2.1 version is that it comes with better firmware, which gives more info about the board's operational parameters.
For ordinary use you won't need the extra DZ-LP0818 backlight control board with the R1811, as the board's internal backlight circuit is fine for everything but use of the screen in constant direct sun on the glass.
You don't need a TB3/4 cable, as an 8K video-capable USB-C cable is OK.
But it may be easier to go with a TB/4 cable as that guarantees good video performance.
Good luck with the conversion. 😉
The 2015 iMac's LM270QQ1 SD(B1) screen can develop 'pink edges' with age, and it only supports ~91% Display P3, and since you don't intend to use the iMac's speakers, you could get good results with the cheaper JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board as an alternative to the R1811 V4.
The major thing you would lose is an I/R remote control.
And a lower spec audio amplifier, which won't be a concern for you
However if you intend to use the HDMI input for 5K, with the HDMI 2.1 version of the R1811, then that is the one to go for.
The other advantage of the R1811 HDMI 2.1 version is that it comes with better firmware, which gives more info about the board's operational parameters.
For ordinary use you won't need the extra DZ-LP0818 backlight control board with the R1811, as the board's internal backlight circuit is fine for everything but use of the screen in constant direct sun on the glass.
You don't need a TB3/4 cable, as an 8K video-capable USB-C cable is OK.
But it may be easier to go with a TB/4 cable as that guarantees good video performance.
Good luck with the conversion. 😉
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Hi again! After a summerbreak getting back on the conversion. When reading up get some second thoughts about the powersupply i am using, and if that might be part of my mishap and breaking of two displayboards! Before firing up the third that now has arrived, i want to double check with the expertese in this forum on PSU!
So, I read that LED powersupplys are not suitable. OK, that a constant-power suppply would not be good, but if it is described as a switching power constant voltage, is it still bad? what is the difference from other "non LED" powersupplies?
I got this MJCC LED powersupply from Ali-express, 100w, 12v
Is this a no go and cause of my problems?
I have read recomendations of the meanwell psu, but it builds 30mm, and in the 21.5" there is only room for a 25mm high psu.
If the MJCC is a bad option, does anyone have a suggestion of a AC/DC 12v output powersupply that only builds 25mm?
So, I read that LED powersupplys are not suitable. OK, that a constant-power suppply would not be good, but if it is described as a switching power constant voltage, is it still bad? what is the difference from other "non LED" powersupplies?
I got this MJCC LED powersupply from Ali-express, 100w, 12v
Is this a no go and cause of my problems?
I have read recomendations of the meanwell psu, but it builds 30mm, and in the 21.5" there is only room for a 25mm high psu.
If the MJCC is a bad option, does anyone have a suggestion of a AC/DC 12v output powersupply that only builds 25mm?
@Cudman
Excellent write-up of your conversion.
Your idea for heat-shrink enclosing the Control Strip to use it externally is brilliant! 👍
Quote: "I have one issue with my installation and that is if I stand up from my seat, the screen turns off for just a second and then back on. I do not even touch anything except air. I have tried waving my arms and pushing air in front of the screen but nothing happens, but if I stand up from my chair the screen goes black and the green LED from the control board goes red, and then back to green and the display comes back on. I have not figured out why and so far I am guessing it is some kind of proximity sensor built into the iMac that tells the original PSU to shutdown, but because I have hardwired the original power button to be constantly on it is "pressing" it back on thus resuming function. Any ideas here as to what could cause the temporary black screen by just standing up in front of the screen?"
The general feeling is that this is caused by static electricity, which is being made more sensitive by the video cable you are connecting from the Mac to the monitor. Changing the cable and using ferrite rings on the cable has been shown to improve this.
I don't think the PSU expects to be constantly connected to the power switch in the ON position...
Excellent write-up of your conversion.
Your idea for heat-shrink enclosing the Control Strip to use it externally is brilliant! 👍
Quote: "I have one issue with my installation and that is if I stand up from my seat, the screen turns off for just a second and then back on. I do not even touch anything except air. I have tried waving my arms and pushing air in front of the screen but nothing happens, but if I stand up from my chair the screen goes black and the green LED from the control board goes red, and then back to green and the display comes back on. I have not figured out why and so far I am guessing it is some kind of proximity sensor built into the iMac that tells the original PSU to shutdown, but because I have hardwired the original power button to be constantly on it is "pressing" it back on thus resuming function. Any ideas here as to what could cause the temporary black screen by just standing up in front of the screen?"
The general feeling is that this is caused by static electricity, which is being made more sensitive by the video cable you are connecting from the Mac to the monitor. Changing the cable and using ferrite rings on the cable has been shown to improve this.
I don't think the PSU expects to be constantly connected to the power switch in the ON position...
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@Mowgli10L "...if it is described as a switching power constant voltage, is it still bad? what is the difference from other "non LED" powersupplies?"
If the PSU is 'constant voltage' the that's fine. If it prioritises 'constant current', then the voltage may increase too much when the power supply is switched on the the board, and that voltage spike may be too much...
With an LED a voltage spike won't hurt it, but for a board with capacitors on, the spike may easily damage them if they aren't capable of withstanding the higher voltage.
There are low profile 12V PSUs out there, like the Cincon LFM200S120C, but that sort of thing comes at a 'commercial' price...
If the PSU is 'constant voltage' the that's fine. If it prioritises 'constant current', then the voltage may increase too much when the power supply is switched on the the board, and that voltage spike may be too much...
With an LED a voltage spike won't hurt it, but for a board with capacitors on, the spike may easily damage them if they aren't capable of withstanding the higher voltage.
There are low profile 12V PSUs out there, like the Cincon LFM200S120C, but that sort of thing comes at a 'commercial' price...
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Thanks again Paul for your swift and friendly help! I am determined to get the screen running this time and not just for a brief second, so since i am obviously a total idiot on electronics, better safe than sorry. Ordered the PSU you recommended. Wish me luck on the 3rd assembly!
Yet another silly question. The sincon only has 1 single output. (My current one has 2). I want 1 output for displayboard and 1 for PWM fan control. Can I split the output in a "non symmetrical" manner? (the PWM only needs a few amps right?). Or this might not matter, since the 200w gives enough headroom anyway?
@Mowgli10L "I want 1 output for displayboard and 1 for PWM fan control. Can I split the output in a "non symmetrical" manner?"
Just connect the two sets of wires to the PSU's +/– output terminals.
Each wire will pass the right current to 1. the board and 2. the PWM controller input.
Just connect the two sets of wires to the PSU's +/– output terminals.
Each wire will pass the right current to 1. the board and 2. the PWM controller input.
I guess it's too late as you have ordered it, but I used a USB-C PD power adapter (a 65w one) with one of these devices from Adafruit to negotiate 12v. Pretty cheap alternative if you already have USB-C chargers lying around.
My full write up of my 21.5" conversion will be done this weekend!
I was able to sell the mainboard, with CPU and SSD (for the fusion drive) for about $50 on ebay. None of the other parts seem to be worth much (or enough to waste my time getting them listed on ebay and then packaging for shipment after).
New thoughts about the controlstrip: We got the pinout from the cable/to the board. But has anyone a circuit diagram for the strip? Might be obvious for everyone else, but if i want to move the buttons also to another position, just as the IR -sensor and LED. How are they all connected on the strip?
@Mowgli10L
You can’t really‘move’ the buttons because they are soldered to fine tracks on the PCB.
What you could do is cut the ribbon cable in the middle, and connect the wire to each switch’s + connection to swap the function of each switch to something else..
The two Gnd wires and the IR receiver and LEDs + wires would have to stay the same.
But this would have to be done with great care not to misconnect anything…
If you want to move the IR receiver or LEDs you need expert (de)soldering skills, as they are easily damaged by heat.
It would be better to get new ones, and connect those.
The details of this are earlier in the thread.
You can’t really‘move’ the buttons because they are soldered to fine tracks on the PCB.
What you could do is cut the ribbon cable in the middle, and connect the wire to each switch’s + connection to swap the function of each switch to something else..
The two Gnd wires and the IR receiver and LEDs + wires would have to stay the same.
But this would have to be done with great care not to misconnect anything…
If you want to move the IR receiver or LEDs you need expert (de)soldering skills, as they are easily damaged by heat.
It would be better to get new ones, and connect those.
The details of this are earlier in the thread.
OK. Sorry. I see Paul already answered ME with answer to this question in earlier post with a good picture explaining this!! Just to make sure. If removing the buttons it would be sufficient to connect only one of the (+) corners/pins and one of the grnd (-) corners/pins?