DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[Regulus67]

If you do not have any backup of your files. I guess rebuilding the iMac will be the best option. Even if it is a lot of work.

When my iMac died, I went to the following steps:

Step 1 - Purchased SSD blade from OWC, and tried to reinstall Monterey.
But it would hang during the install process (1/3 of the progress bar), just as it did with the original ssd blade.
Even with the new blade, and a new SSD disk, it would not complete the install.

Step 2 - Purchase Disk Drill (Pro) app. It recovered a lot of files, but mostly just OS or app files.
Only a small percentage of the Numbers documents.
None of my saved Pages documents. Some presented the first page of the document as pdf file.
None of my videos. A few was recovered partly, but would only play up to the first 10 minutes. Even though the file info said they were over an hour long. The video just stopped, even when it was continuing the playback.

So in my case, I was not able to recover much of what I wanted. And sadly it had been a while since I did the last backup of files.

 

[3quid]

If you do not have any backup of your files. I guess rebuilding the iMac will be the best option. Even if it is a lot of work.

When my iMac died, I went to the following steps:

Step 1 - Purchased SSD blade from OWC, and tried to reinstall Monterey.
But it would hang during the install process (1/3 of the progress bar), just as it did with the original ssd blade.
Even with the new blade, and a new SSD disk, it would not complete the install.

Step 2 - Purchase Disk Drill (Pro) app. It recovered a lot of files, but mostly just OS or app files.
Only a small percentage of the Numbers documents.
None of my saved Pages documents. Some presented the first page of the document as pdf file.
None of my videos. A few was recovered partly, but would only play up to the first 10 minutes. Even though the file info said they were over an hour long. The video just stopped, even when it was continuing the playback.

So in my case, I was not able to recover much of what I wanted. And sadly it had been a while since I did the last backup of files.

Yeh. I saw similar experiences online so started to put the iMac back together. Wasn’t too bad tbh as I didn’t put all the screws back in or connect anything like speakers etc. just logic board, psu, hard drive and fan. Currently transferring files to an external hd

Just wish I’d known prior to moving it all across. Hopefully someone learns from my error 👍

 

[Alex777]

Please tell me which board supports 10 bit image on the LM270QQ1SBB1 display through a motherboard with a display port on a Intel Core i5 10600K Marvel`s Avengers Collector`s Edition processor hackintosh, integrated 630 graphics. My old imac...

 

[Regulus67]

I have the LM270QQ1 (SD)(B1), and very happy with the R1811. The display card supports 10-bit. But I have no idea how to check if it activates 10-bit, or not.
Perhaps someone has mentioned it somewhere in this long thread, but I can not remember.

Please tell me which board supports 10 bit image on the LM270QQ1SBB1 display...

 

[kstereo]

I have the LM270QQ1 (SD)(B1), and very happy with the R1811. The display card supports 10-bit. But I have no idea how to check if it activates 10-bit, or not.
Perhaps someone has mentioned it somewhere in this long thread, but I can not remember.

Quick question: Does your R1811 remember your color settings? If so, was there a particular step to make it recall the settings after powering off? Each time I power off my display, the color format reverts to YUV from RGB.

 

[PaulD-UK]

Mine remembers the settings every time. M1 Mini (still on Monterey) connected DP<USB-C.

The R1811 needs a graphics card that can support Display Stream Compression to run at 10 bit through a single cable.
I'm not sure the Intel 630 graphics will support DSC?

 

[kstereo]

Mine remembers the settings every time. M1 Mini (still on Monterey) connected DP<USB-C.

The R1811 needs a graphics card that can support Display Stream Compression to run at 10 bit through a single cable.
I'm not sure the Intel 630 graphics will support DSC?

Thanks for the feedback! I wonder what I'm doing wrong… i'm on a M2 MacMini using the DP input using a USB-C to DP cable.

 

[PaulD-UK]

My R1811 is on v04 firmware.

 

[kstereo]

My R1811 is on v04 firmware.

Hmmm. Mine is as well!
Would you mind sharing your color settings? I wonder if I need to try changing one of them.

 

[PaulD-UK]

I’ve left the Color setting at G1-27 on the Mac, and not changed anything on the R1811 except the to slightly reduce the Saturation slider. I use Monitor Control to set the screen brightness.
Compared to the Dell monitor I used before, the R1811 DIY build has been absolutely straightforward.
I’m using a Cable Matters usb-c to DP cable.

 

[kstereo]

I’ve left the Color setting at G1-27 on the Mac, and not changed anything on the R1811 except the to slightly reduce the Saturation slider. I use Monitor Control to set the screen brightness.
Compared to the Dell monitor I used before, the R1811 DIY build has been absolutely straightforward.
I’m using a Cable Matters usb-c to DP cable.

Ah! I was talking about the settings on the R1811. I can't get those to survive a power down. What are your color settings on that? Example: Gamma, Temp, Color Effect, Color Format, PCM?

 

[PaulD-UK]

I don’t think I have changed anything much.

 

[3quid]

Glad you got yours in the post and up and running. Mine's been stuck on 'In Transit' on the Royal Mail app for ages now. Starting to wonder if I'll ever get it! I don't suppose you took any pictures of the installation of the cables - seems like everyone has trouble putting the cables in!

As I had to rebuild the iMac to transfer files (see posts above about Fusion Drive) I thought I would a) take some pictures this time to help others and b) put it together with a bit more care.

I was trying to work out the best way to fix the board properly to the case ... ie not just gaffa tape. Realised that two of the mounting posts for the logic board were perfect distance apart to use the pre-made holes on the board. I used some sticky-back neoprene that I had lying around to insulate/protect the back of the board from the case.

I then used the Dremel to cut a couple of the grill bars out of the back of the case and mounted the control panel - they are just about the exact same width.

I also thought about putting the power supply brick inside the case but was worried about overheating and length of cable so just left it outside.

Then clipped the screen cables back on and there we have it. All done!

Pictures​

Neoprene Backing



Logic Board posts indicated


Board fixed in place


Grill bars cut out and controls fixed in place


Controls (rear)


Controls (front) with power light


Bingo!!

 

[Regulus67]

Quick question: Does your R1811 remember your color settings? If so, was there a particular step to make it recall the settings after powering off? Each time I power off my display, the color format reverts to YUV from RGB.

Hi. Yes mine does, just like PaulD-UK's. It remembers it, with no issue
I have set the Color to DCI-P3. I can only change sharpness in Picture, the rest is greyed out.
And in Advance, typeC 1.4.
My card is also version 4.

This is the cable I use

USB C till DisplayPort-kabel 8K vid 60 Hz, Maxonar 3 m (10 fot), 4K vid 60 Hz/144 Hz/120 Hz, 5K vid 60 Hz, 2K vid 240 Hz, Thunderbolt 3 till DisplayPort HBR3 typ C DP 1.4 för MacBook Pro 2021, M1

USB C till DisplayPort-kabel 8K vid 60 Hz, Maxonar 3 m (10 fot), 4K vid 60 Hz/144 Hz/120 Hz, 5K vid 60 Hz, 2K vid 240 Hz, Thunderbolt 3 till DisplayPort HBR3 typ C DP 1.4 för MacBook Pro 2021, M1

www.amazon.se

My graphic card is the Radeon Pro Vega II MPX

​

edit: see my post 718 in page 29

 

[Regulus67]

I used a plastic lid with PC motherboard standoffs to secure the R1811 to the lid.
The lid itself I screwed to the iMac's own HD standoffs.
That way, it is securely fastened, and can't move

 

[michaelsft]

As I had to rebuild the iMac to transfer files (see posts above about Fusion Drive) I thought I would a) take some pictures this time to help others and b) put it together with a bit more care.

I was trying to work out the best way to fix the board properly to the case ... ie not just gaffa tape. Realised that two of the mounting posts for the logic board were perfect distance apart to use the pre-made holes on the board. I used some sticky-back neoprene that I had lying around to insulate/protect the back of the board from the case.

I then used the Dremel to cut a couple of the grill bars out of the back of the case and mounted the control panel - they are just about the exact same width.

I also thought about putting the power supply brick inside the case but was worried about overheating and length of cable so just left it outside.

Then clipped the screen cables back on and there we have it. All done!

Pictures​

View attachment 2253567
Neoprene Backing


View attachment 2253568
Logic Board posts indicated

View attachment 2253574
Board fixed in place

View attachment 2253572
Grill bars cut out and controls fixed in place

View attachment 2253573
Controls (rear)

View attachment 2253570
Controls (front) with power light

View attachment 2253569
Bingo!!

Thanks very much! Still waiting for the board but this looks really helpful!

 

[kstereo]

Hi. Yes mine does, just like PaulD-UK's. It remembers it, with no issue
I have set the Color to DCI-P3. I can only change sharpness in Picture, the rest is greyed out.
And in Advance, typeC 1.4.
My card is also version 4.

This is the cable I use

USB C till DisplayPort-kabel 8K vid 60 Hz, Maxonar 3 m (10 fot), 4K vid 60 Hz/144 Hz/120 Hz, 5K vid 60 Hz, 2K vid 240 Hz, Thunderbolt 3 till DisplayPort HBR3 typ C DP 1.4 för MacBook Pro 2021, M1

USB C till DisplayPort-kabel 8K vid 60 Hz, Maxonar 3 m (10 fot), 4K vid 60 Hz/144 Hz/120 Hz, 5K vid 60 Hz, 2K vid 240 Hz, Thunderbolt 3 till DisplayPort HBR3 typ C DP 1.4 för MacBook Pro 2021, M1

www.amazon.se

My graphic card is the Radeon Pro Vega II MPX

​

edit: see my post 718 in page 29

Thanks! Is your Color > Color Format set to YUV or RGB? I find that the color format switches from RGB to YUV at power off.

 

[Regulus67]

If you check my setting in post 718, you will see it is RGB. I can not change that, as shown in the photo.
It does not change if I let the mac go to sleep, or shut it down. No problems at all.
So far the R1811 has been rock solid .

I just tested to turn the R1811 on, without starting the mac. Same result.
So I have no clue what can cause yours to reset. Could it be some other setting that causes the card to reset? Or is there any possibility that it has contact with the body, causing an intermittent electric connection?

edit: I would check the small card with the physical buttons

 

[PaulD-UK]

@kstereo The experience I had with a Dell monitor in the past is that it's the Mac that can change the monitor setting to YUV when it initialises the monitor whilst the computer is booting.
Especially when using HDMI as older Intel Mac OS's used to assume that HDMI monitors were for video - movies etc.

That doesn't seem to be the case these days, but that's what may be going on with your system. It used to take a terminal hack to override the problem.

I thought that had all gone away with Apple Silicon, and Macs having an HDMI port for a 2nd computer monitor - which seems to be standard with MacBook Pros.

So I can't see any reason for it to be happening to you
This link to post #684 shows my R1811 settings.

 

[PaulD-UK]

HDR works...

I have just been reading the Apple Silicon (ARM) Macs section of MR, reading the thread:
Washed-out colours in the macOS Interface When Enabling HDR
and it prompted me to look at my R1811 settings menu...

As expected, enabling HDR in Display Settings on the Mac produces the washed out screen.
But buried in the R1811's internal settings menu (under Advanced) is an HDR - Off/Auto/HDR toggle (for HDR10).
Which I've just set to Auto and tested with YouTube, and it works amazingly!!
The Mac HDR button has to be unchecked (setting it on produces a doubled/garish effect), so the monitor driver board is handling the HDR detection.

Originally when I read through the Chinese specs of the R1811 I remember reading that the HDR10 setting only works with 4K, not 5K,(but I can't find that reference now).
So I'd never tried fiddling with the HDR setting, except to try enabling the Mac's HDR setting - which gives the washed-out look.

With HDR on Auto, while the colour accuracy is probably somewhat inaccurate, all the R1811's menu settings still function and I can definitely get a good-enough picture to watch the YT movies.
I've never seen the screen so bright and vibrant.
And all the desktop colour settings for normal windows/wallpaper etc look as usual.
Very impressive.

 

[yaosiang]

Can someone with M1 Mac and R1811 driver board confirm that they are getting RGB colour format on the OSD menu? I tested the Mac mini M1 with R1811 and although I can get 5K@60Hz, the colour format appears to be YUV (not RGB). Both USB-C and DisplayPort inputs on the R1811 gave the same results. I repeated the tests with the same cables on a Windows 10 Pro laptop and I could get RGB colour format so the issue is definitely not caused by the cables.

On the Mac mini M1:
View attachment 2235188

View attachment 2235192

On the Windows 10 Pro laptop:
View attachment 2235193

View attachment 2235194


I previously carried out chroma subsampling test on the R9A18 in post #283. Results for R1811 as below. It is important that the test is carried out with the UI resolution set to 5120x2880 (scale of 1.0). Otherwise, the test image would look fine even if chroma subsampling is present. I used the test image from RTINGS.


View attachment 2235198

Just want to provide an update on this issue that I encountered with the R1811 and Mac mini M1 previously. It seems to have self-rectified and the only change that I can think of is the recent update of macOS from 13.5 to 13.5.1. The Color Format now shows RGB and the Chroma Subsampling test confirmed that it is indeed RGB.

Thanks! Is your Color > Color Format set to YUV or RGB? I find that the color format switches from RGB to YUV at power off.

I believe the Color Format is an option determined by the driver board rather than user. If your driver board is showing YUV at power on, it means that your set up is not running in full RGB. Changing the OSD settings from YUV to RGB will not force it to run at RGB unfortunately.

I suggest you carry out the Chroma Subsampling test to confirm if macOS is running on RGB or YUV.

Please note for the purpose of the test only, you need to open the image at 100% with the screen resolution set to 5120x2880 @ 1.0x. The test is not valid if you open the image at 100% with screen resolution set to 2560x1440 @ 2.0x (which is the default option). It might work if you view the image at 50% but to make things less complicated, view the image at 100% 1:1.

The test image can be downloaded from RTINGS. The width of the image window displayed on the screen should be between 14 to 15cm, measured with a ruler as below. Observe the vertical bars in the last 2 rows and report back. If they look odd, it means that macOS is running on YUV.

 

[joevt]

If they look odd, it means that macOS is running on YUV.

You mean YUV with chroma sub sampling (4:2:2 or 4:2:0).
YUV can be used without chroma sub sampling (4:4:4) and should look just as good as RGB.

4:2:2 is chroma sub sampling in the horizontal direction only. The vertical lines will look normal if you rotate the image 90°.
4:2:0 is chroma sub sampling in both directions. Vertical and horizontal lines will both have problems.

 

[yaosiang]

You mean YUV with chroma sub sampling (4:2:2 or 4:2:0).
YUV can be used without chroma sub sampling (4:4:4) and should look just as good as RGB.

4:2:2 is chroma sub sampling in the horizontal direction only. The vertical lines will look normal if you rotate the image 90°.
4:2:0 is chroma sub sampling in both directions. Vertical and horizontal lines will both have problems.

Yes thanks for the clarification @joevt.

 

[michaelsft]

Thanks very much! Still waiting for the board but this looks really helpful!

You have to laugh I guess... After weeks and weeks of waiting I finally got a bill - £37.72 for customs - not ideal and certainly makes the overall cost a lot more expensive, but at least it would finally be delivered.

Today it arrived and... the box was severely beaten up and the card has a bent corner. I don't know if this works yet - I don't have time to try it until the weekend but it's fair to say I'm a little disappointed. I'll have to bend the board back into shape with some pliers and hope that there's nothing important in that part (I don't think there is but I'm no expert). Seems clear to me that this package was not treated well at all so if the board survived is anyone's guess.

 

[Regulus67]

That looks horrific. I would assume that has been damaged after it went through the customs?
The postal services have really deteriorated the past decades. I see that here in Sweden as well.

I am a bit surprised. If I am not mistaken, my R1811 came in what seems a much better packaging.