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To give one perspective on resolutions with a 5k display, iMac Pro options.

Larger Text 1600x900
2048x1152
Default 2560x1440
2880x1620
More Space 3200x1800 (resolution I prefer)

View attachment 2346794

Why would you use the full 5120 x 2880 resolution?
Agreed - 5120 x 2880 is too small to read anything (at least for my old eyes). I'm currently using 3200 x 1800 too. I was just wondering if the Mac is doing some kind of weird "scaling" from the 4K max resolution it currently detects vs scaling from the full 5K resolution the panel is capable of. Maybe both would look identical and I'm worried about nothing.
 
Agreed - 5120 x 2880 is too small to read anything (at least for my old eyes). I'm currently using 3200 x 1800 too. I was just wondering if the Mac is doing some kind of weird "scaling" from the 4K max resolution it currently detects vs scaling from the full 5K resolution the panel is capable of. Maybe both would look identical and I'm worried about noth

@Regulus67

It's more of a scaling and content issue.
The default is for the UI to display at 2560x1440. This is nice and usable with "normal" sized text, but it is actually upscaled so that the screen actually runs at the 5120x2880.

However, as I understand it when needed, some content can render at that higher resolution (e.g. videos, photo editing, etc) even though the UI is upscaled.

This results in a readable UI and lets you use those extra pixels in time that you need them.
 
When I watch video with QuickTime the window is larger. With the same video running on 5kPlayer, the window is much smaller. This is probably because of the scaling you mention.

As you can see in the screenshot

QuickTime vs 5kPlayer.png
 
I finally bought my r1811 and now waiting for delivery. Since I’m all about the authentic I will probably try to include a usb-c female to one of the ports in the back so it looks more stock, but since my housing only has usb-a, I was wondering if anyone has an idea on how to make it look proper.

My idea was to mount the usb c female on a 3D printed block with a whole and line it up on one of the usb-a ports but I don’t have a 3D printer and couldn’t find on printable a similar idea. Anyone figured something out for this? I have a drill and touched one of the thunderbolt 2 ports (different connector) and quickly realized this will make it worse
 
I finally bought my r1811 and now waiting for delivery. Since I’m all about the authentic I will probably try to include a usb-c female to one of the ports in the back so it looks more stock, but since my housing only has usb-a, I was wondering if anyone has an idea on how to make it look proper.

My idea was to mount the usb c female on a 3D printed block with a whole and line it up on one of the usb-a ports but I don’t have a 3D printer and couldn’t find on printable a similar idea. Anyone figured something out for this? I have a drill and touched one of the thunderbolt 2 ports (different connector) and quickly realized this will make it worse

I did the stock look myself, you can see my work here.

3D printing good brackets for the ports sounds like an excellent idea. I also don't have a 3d printer, so I had to resort to spare parts I had laying around: nuts, washers, plastic washers, and aluminium tape to create the right fit.

You'll have to shorten the female connector in order to make them fit properly, as the iMac aluminium case will add a couple of mm between the connectors.

You can see how I did it in the link above.

I whole-heartily agree with you that you should avoid any drilling/sanding or anything like such as it will always look worse than stock.
 
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The problem with fiddling around with USB-C sockets is that there is a very complex spring retention clip that Apple fits on the inside of the case shell which is essential to keeping the plug inserted.
Better to get a 2017+ shell like @Aiwi if you are worried about looks.
If you shorten a new socket you fit it is highly likely you’ll damage this retention clip, and have the plug loose so it will fall out.
Apple’s USB -C socket is so well engineered I doubt a replacement part will work as well, especially if it’s 1. cheap and 2. hacked about.
 
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I finally bought my r1811 and now waiting for delivery. Since I’m all about the authentic I will probably try to include a usb-c female to one of the ports in the back so it looks more stock, but since my housing only has usb-a, I was wondering if anyone has an idea on how to make it look proper.

My idea was to mount the usb c female on a 3D printed block with a whole and line it up on one of the usb-a ports but I don’t have a 3D printer and couldn’t find on printable a similar idea. Anyone figured something out for this? I have a drill and touched one of the thunderbolt 2 ports (different connector) and quickly realized this will make it worse
Hey. I did this two weeks ago. I used the Mini Display Ports, expanded them and glued the female adapter in from the inside with epoxy putty. Not the best work but there's room for improvement 😄
It works pretty good and is solid.

IMG_5448.jpg


Hey @Aiwi

I saw you used the IMX258 12MP 75° AF. Can you show me a picture how wide the FOV is with this camera?
I'm considering buying it too, but I don't want my whole room to be seen in conference calls like with many other cameras.
 
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I did the stock look myself, you can see my work here.

3D printing good brackets for the ports sounds like an excellent idea. I also don't have a 3d printer, so I had to resort to spare parts I had laying around: nuts, washers, plastic washers, and aluminium tape to create the right fit.

You'll have to shorten the female connector in order to make them fit properly, as the iMac aluminium case will add a couple of mm between the connectors.

You can see how I did it in the link above.

I whole-heartily agree with you that you should avoid any drilling/sanding or anything like such as it will always look worse than stock.
That is an excellent github post. I used a 2015 iMac, so my ports couldn't be re-used without making them larger somehow...I didn't try it because I knew I'd mess it up.
 
Hey. I did this two weeks ago. I used the Mini Display Ports, expanded them and glued the female adapter in from the inside with epoxy putty. Not the best work but there's room for improvement 😄
It works pretty good and is solid.

View attachment 2347579


Hey @Aiwi

I saw you used the IMX258 12MP 75° AF. Can you show me a picture how wide the FOV is with this camera?
I'm considering buying it too, but I don't want my whole room to be seen in conference calls like with many other cameras.

I'll see what I can do. Meanwhile, I would say it's very similar to the Macbook Pro's original 50 degree FOV.
 
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Hey. I did this two weeks ago. I used the Mini Display Ports, expanded them and glued the female adapter in from the inside with epoxy putty. Not the best work but there's room for improvement 😄
It works pretty good and is solid.

View attachment 2347579


Hey @Aiwi

I saw you used the IMX258 12MP 75° AF. Can you show me a picture how wide the FOV is with this camera?
I'm considering buying it too, but I don't want my whole room to be seen in conference calls like with many other cameras.
Thank you! This is the closest, but I might choose one of the USB-A ports instead, let's see at the fitting phase.

Additional question!

Why are there 2 USB-C ports available? R1811 only has one, or for that matter any board i've seen.

@Aiwi Your Github post has been the inspiration from the very beginning, it is exactly what I want, just happen to have the wrong housing :(. Amazing work!
 
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Additional question!

Why are there 2 USB-C ports available? R1811 only has one, or for that matter any board i've seen.

I don't use one of the Aliexpress Boards. I use the Board from a iiYama 5K Monitor and I have a USB C Hub inside the case. The second USB C Port is Just for data and peripherals


IMG_5381.jpg
 
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I did the stock look myself, you can see my work here.

3D printing good brackets for the ports sounds like an excellent idea. I also don't have a 3d printer, so I had to resort to spare parts I had laying around: nuts, washers, plastic washers, and aluminium tape to create the right fit.

You'll have to shorten the female connector in order to make them fit properly, as the iMac aluminium case will add a couple of mm between the connectors.

You can see how I did it in the link above.

I whole-heartily agree with you that you should avoid any drilling/sanding or anything like such as it will always look worse than stock.

Since you have some experience with the depth, do you think there is any opportunity of any of these working? I’m aware some of them might need usb-a to c cables female to male or vice versa
 
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The 2nd link says "No video output".
Any devices 'compatible with phones' isn't likely to have the internal wiring needed for high bandwidth video.

Lots (lots) of USB-C stuff doesn't work - earlier in this thread, and in many others, there are tales of woe.
You need it to be 8K video compatible to carry the main USB-C feed for the video board.
 
`
The 2nd link says "No video output".
Any devices 'compatible with phones' isn't likely to have the internal wiring needed for high bandwidth video.

Lots (lots) of USB-C stuff doesn't work - earlier in this thread, and in many others, there are tales of woe.
You need it to be 8K video compatible to carry the main USB-C feed for the video board.
for the video input part, I already bought these


I'm looking to make something of the other ports, but since I already phased out USB-A, that would be effort for nothing, so looking for ways to integrate USB-C (hard drives, peripherals, speakers)

Just trying not to have empty holes
 
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Since you have some experience with the depth, do you think there is any opportunity of any of these working? I’m aware some of them might need usb-a to c cables female to male or vice versa

`

for the video input part, I already bought these


I'm looking to make something of the other ports, but since I already phased out USB-A, that would be effort for nothing, so looking for ways to integrate USB-C (hard drives, peripherals, speakers)

Just trying not to have empty holes
I haven’t tried those you mentioned, but since you already have the adapter for USB 4/video, any adapter should be fine.

The r1811 only has usb 2.0 ports, so you might save a couple of dollars by finding 90 degree adapters with only usb 2. But the ones you linked should work, provided they physically fit in the space.
 
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I have an iMac (Late 2015) in front of me with a failing graphics card. Cost USD$200

I have ordered one of these. Cost $130USD
This JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board is selling on AliExpress

I have also ordered tools and adhesive, and intend to use an existing 12V supply.

For USD$330 (about AUD$500) I am hoping to have one of these bad boys up and running in the next few weeks. Thanks all for the knowledge contained in this thread.
 
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I have an iMac (Late 2015) in front of me with a failing graphics card. Cost USD$200

I have ordered one of these. Cost $130USD

I have also ordered tools and adhesive, and intend to use an existing 12V supply.

For USD$330 (about AUD$500) I am hoping to have one of these bad boys up and running in the next few weeks. Thanks all for the knowledge contained in this thread.
Let us know how it goes. I am very much tempted to order this board. Good luck with your DIY project!
 
Hi,

I've done the conversation with the t18. Do not hesitate to ask questions. The original speakers are working well with the crossover filter. They are good to go with YouTube etc. But I have some bad behavior. The Board only works with one TB to DP cable. With TB3 to TB3 (2 different) the screen keeps blank (you can see the background light, but cannot see any desktop etc. Sound works ;) ) HDMI does not work either. I don't know, what's the issue. Does someone have a solution for this? The same issue is available with the working cable, but not every time. It's totally weird, because I cannot see any system on the working or not working progress. I think it could be the power supply, but I ordered one of the best rated from amazon. I use a 24v 4a (96w). Could another power supply the solution? I ordered a new one (other brand) and a a third tb4 cable.
 
5K video over USB-C cables requires high quality cable specs, and also the correct internal wiring for the video signalling.
In practice that comes down to using certified 8K video cables, in particular Thunderbolt certified.

As to USB-C>DP cables, since the PC world is 4K or below, many adaptors fail to pass the higher frequency signal required for 5-8K.
In practice it's best to stick to good quality manufacturers who self-certify their cable quality.
The same applies to HDMI, although the T18 only has a 4K/HDMI 2.0 capability.

Hope your TB4 cable sorts out the problem.
 
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Hi,

I've done the conversation with the t18. Do not hesitate to ask questions. The original speakers are working well with the crossover filter. They are good to go with YouTube etc. But I have some bad behavior. The Board only works with one TB to DP cable. With TB3 to TB3 (2 different) the screen keeps blank (you can see the background light, but cannot see any desktop etc. Sound works ;) ) HDMI does not work either. I don't know, what's the issue. Does someone have a solution for this? The same issue is available with the working cable, but not every time. It's totally weird, because I cannot see any system on the working or not working progress. I think it could be the power supply, but I ordered one of the best rated from amazon. I use a 24v 4a (96w). Could another power supply the solution? I ordered a new one (other brand) and a a third tb4 cable.
I also have a T18 board and haven't tried any inputs except TB3/4 from my MacBook to DP which works, but only at 4K when connected through my Caldigit TS3+ hub - 5K if connected directly to my laptop.

Anyway - crazy thought on your issue. Earlier in this thread people mentioned that the OSD menu for the T18 only shows up when there is an input connected to the board. I'm wondering if you get one source connected and working, for example, through DP, and the T18 OSD menu is set to DP input, and then you pull the DP connection and connect the source through (e.g.) HDMI, the T18 doesn't autosense the new connection. Since it was last connected to DP, there's no way to get the OSD menu to display so you can change the input from DP to HDMI unless you also connect something to the DP input, get the OSD menu to show up, and change the input to HDMI? Kind of crazy, I know.
 
I bought these cables in advance with the intention to use them in this system. They were expensive, so I thought, they give me what I wanted 🤪 both are 8k60 ready, at least the manufacturer offered this.
Anyways. Today every input worked 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ The Digital AV Adapter with the MacBook Air over HDmi gave me 4K (as expected). The usb-c input has to be changed to dp1.4 for 5k60.
I don’t have the option for changing the input over the menu. But this is not so important as I only want to use it with the Mac mini. But it stays weird: not working the one day and working the other 😅
@fhall1 when I connect another source when the screen is running, the screen turns black for a short time. it feels like a short circuit, but the board is with the same two screens in the case as yours and I used rubber as for safety underneath the board and the screw.
 
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