DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[Tiberian7]

Hi All, thank you for the amazing resources throughout this thread!! You gave me inspiration to repurpose a late 2015 27in iMac that I found abandoned at the recycling center and bring it to life with cheapest board I could find in this thread -- the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 from stonetaskin.com. The quick and dirty conversion took less than an hour, but it took a few weeks before I finally got the courage to apply adhesive strips to the LCD panel. I was concerned about heat from what I've read on here and other reviews on aliexpress for this board, but after taking temps of the board with "Start Screen Saver when inactive" and "Turn display off when inactive" settings disabled for a few weeks, I had enough comfort to finalize the build. Max avg temp was 129F -- board enclosed, stock heatsink, and no active cooling.

I re-used the existing iMac speakers, and re-wired the panel control buttons to a simple 5D rocker button that I hot-glued to the ethernet port and re-purposed the existing power button. I mounted the board so that the heatsink was close to existing vents, and routed the wires through the power connector slot which was conveniently sized for a 1-1/2 rubber grommet. I popped off the existing aluminum standoffs with pliers and re-used them to mound the board with double-sided 3M adhesive tape.

The setup easily runs 5k 60hz connected to an m2 Mac mini and PC wired via cheapo 8k kvm switch. Links to parts and pics below:

Grommet kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CYSNDWP
5D rocker buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XB2245Q
Beefed up 24v 6A Power supply (just in case): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083K71SM8
Cheapo adhesive strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TDKW6RB
KVM switch for PC to Mac Mini setup (had to plug keyboard and mouse to printer port via USB hub to prevent sleep/wake issues): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGHQWLJQ
USB-C to Displayport cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB821BL2
Speaker frequency dividers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1JDBWJG
LCD driver board: https://stonetaskin.com/products/st...r-display-screen-dp1-5?variant=43939337797786

 

[fhall1]

@Tiberian7 Nice build! I wish I had looked to Amazon for adhesive strips vs. iFixIt - would have saved a few bucks. That's the same power supply I purchased for my T18 build - like you said - just in case. The 5D button rewire is a clever idea - not sure my brain-finger coordination would allow me to change and view settings quickly LOL.

Hopefully, all the builds in this thread last a long time and save all of us lots of bucks over buying a Studio Display!

 

[Guenter]

Has anybody tried to use the 5k iMac as a monitor while leaving the iMac in working conditions?

If I make an external connection from the internal video board, the internal video input, the screen backlight power connector and the backlight power connector it should be possible to use the screen input connectors either from the internal components or by an external box driven by an R1811 board.
It would not allow switching on the fly but the Iman would be usable after the modification.
The backlight power should not be a problem. However I am not sure if the video connection may fail when it is connected via some sort of switch.

Any thoughts about this?

 

[Aiwi]

Has anybody tried to use the 5k iMac as a monitor while leaving the iMac in working conditions?

If I make an external connection from the internal video board, the internal video input, the screen backlight power connector and the backlight power connector it should be possible to use the screen input connectors either from the internal components or by an external box driven by an R1811 board.
It would not allow switching on the fly but the Iman would be usable after the modification.
The backlight power should not be a problem. However I am not sure if the video connection may fail when it is connected via some sort of switch.

Any thoughts about this?

This person tried this. https://khronokernel.com/macos/2022/03/01/5K-MONITOR.html

TLDR is that the iMac goes into failsafe with no monitor attached, so it worked but at low speed

Edit: sorry I misread. This person tried running it without a monitor attached

 

[fhall1]

Has anybody tried to use the 5k iMac as a monitor while leaving the iMac in working conditions?


Any thoughts about this?

I think a couple people talked about this early on in this thread...my recollection was that it would be a lot of work and not as easy in practice as it is to describe it in words. No one has actually had success that I know of. If you do - be sure and post the results here.

 

[PaulD-UK]

This post and this post are @khronokernel's last posts in this thread summarising his findings and reasons for abandoning the idea of a dual functioning monitor conversion.

 

[vortexgently]

Hi All, thank you for the amazing resources throughout this thread!! You gave me inspiration to repurpose a late 2015 27in iMac that I found abandoned at the recycling center and bring it to life with cheapest board I could find in this thread -- the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 from stonetaskin.com. The quick and dirty conversion took less than an hour, but it took a few weeks before I finally got the courage to apply adhesive strips to the LCD panel. I was concerned about heat from what I've read on here and other reviews on aliexpress for this board, but after taking temps of the board with "Start Screen Saver when inactive" and "Turn display off when inactive" settings disabled for a few weeks, I had enough comfort to finalize the build. Max avg temp was 129F -- board enclosed, stock heatsink, and no active cooling.

I re-used the existing iMac speakers, and re-wired the panel control buttons to a simple 5D rocker button that I hot-glued to the ethernet port and re-purposed the existing power button. I mounted the board so that the heatsink was close to existing vents, and routed the wires through the power connector slot which was conveniently sized for a 1-1/2 rubber grommet. I popped off the existing aluminum standoffs with pliers and re-used them to mound the board with double-sided 3M adhesive tape.

The setup easily runs 5k 60hz connected to an m2 Mac mini and PC wired via cheapo 8k kvm switch. Links to parts and pics below:

Grommet kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CYSNDWP
5D rocker buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XB2245Q
Beefed up 24v 6A Power supply (just in case): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083K71SM8
Cheapo adhesive strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TDKW6RB
KVM switch for PC to Mac Mini setup (had to plug keyboard and mouse to printer port via USB hub to prevent sleep/wake issues): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGHQWLJQ
USB-C to Displayport cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB821BL2
Speaker frequency dividers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1JDBWJG
LCD driver board: https://stonetaskin.com/products/st...r-display-screen-dp1-5?variant=43939337797786

@Tiberian7 Oh, that's a very impressive built! Neat neat neat!
BTW, what's that gorgeous keyboard you've got there? Thanks for sharing

 

[ironic138]

@PaulD-UK It was a bad cable. I bought a 3.3ft/1m cable (cable matters, certificated) and this works flawless. Complicated with usb-c, tb etc. to get what you want.

Next Step is to wait for the webcam I ordered in China.

 

[tazziassi]

Hello all,

while preparing for my set up, one of the decisions I made was going for this power supply

LRS-200-24 Mean Well 200W 24V 8.8A Switching Power Supply MeanWell LRS-200-24

Applications : Industrial automation machinery Industrial control system Mechanical and electrical equipment Electronic instruments, equipments or apparatus

www.amazon.com

Mentally doing all the wiring, I think I oversaw one thing, PSU->R1811

I understand the R1811 works on a barrel plug, but, how do I go from the PSU to the R1811 exactly without causing Damage? What is the Size of the Barrell plug? Do I need a converter to go from the PSU to the R1811 or do I connect them directly?

I understand I am over my head, but will go very slowly and safely before powering up for the first time and I am trying to properly Plan everything before the board arrives.

@Aiwi I tried looking at your GitHub but was not able to fully understand how you made the connection

Thanks for the help!

 

[PaulD-UK]

The barrel plug size is 5.5x2.5.
That’s the external/internal diameter in mm.
I just found a cable with the right plug already on the end, and soldered the correct connection for my PSU outlet on the other end.

The centre pin is +ve, and the outer barrel is -ve.
You need 8 amp capable cable: 1mm sq or AWG <12.

Or you can get a '5.5x2.5 to screw terminal' adapter.

 

[tazziassi]

The barrel plug size is 5.5x2.5.
That’s the external/internal diameter in mm.
I just found a cable with the right plug already on the end, and soldered the correct connection for my PSU outlet on the other end.

The centre pin is +ve, and the outer barrel is -ve.
You need 8 amp capable cable: 1mm sq or AWG <12.

Or you can get a '5.5x2.5 to screw terminal' adapter.

Thank you @PaulD-UK for the assistance.

I have found what I think would be the correct plug

GINTOOYUN 2 Pack 90 Degree DC Power Pigtails Cable, Right Angle DC 5.5mm x 2.5mm Male Plug to Bare Wire Open End Power Supply Replacement Repair Cord, for Monitors, LED Strip Light, Camera,3FT 1m

Specification: 1. Connector 1: DC 5.5mm x 2.5mm male 2. Connector 2: Pre-tinned bare wire 3. Voltage: 0-24V 4. Current: 1-15A 5. Power: ≤180W 6. Wire gauge: 16AWG 7. 2*1.5mm² copper wire 8. Polarity distinction: red positive pole inside, black negative pole outside 9. 90 Degree Design 10. Cable L...

www.amazon.com

It seems to spec 15amps and up to 24 volts

Planning to use the original mac ac wall plug to wire the power supply, stripping the cables and going from there to the PSU terminals, I assume since the cables inside the mac probably won't reach the PSU I will need cables able to handle up to 120V which is what the wall will input into the monitor. then that same PSU will output 24v. I don't need any converter between the PSU and the R1811.

Sorry, little nervous, probably will be taking a saturday off to make it all happen when everything arrives in about 3 weeks!

 

[Aiwi]

Hello all,

while preparing for my set up, one of the decisions I made was going for this power supply

LRS-200-24 Mean Well 200W 24V 8.8A Switching Power Supply MeanWell LRS-200-24

Applications : Industrial automation machinery Industrial control system Mechanical and electrical equipment Electronic instruments, equipments or apparatus

www.amazon.com

Mentally doing all the wiring, I think I oversaw one thing, PSU->R1811

I understand the R1811 works on a barrel plug, but, how do I go from the PSU to the R1811 exactly without causing Damage? What is the Size of the Barrell plug? Do I need a converter to go from the PSU to the R1811 or do I connect them directly?

I understand I am over my head, but will go very slowly and safely before powering up for the first time and I am trying to properly Plan everything before the board arrives.

@Aiwi I tried looking at your GitHub but was not able to fully understand how you made the connection

Thanks for the help!

Yeah sorry that wasn't specified. As @PaulD-UK says, it's just a 5.5x2.5mm barrel plug. Either you have some old electronics that happen to have this type of cable that you can cut and use (just make sure it can handle enough current). I've circled the power cable for the R1811 board in the picture below.

On a side note, I updated my FaceTime camera setup to reuse the original plastic bracket. Now it is really secure and has the perfect angle I had a small issue where I was not perfectly pleased with the previous taped angle. I had to trim away some plastic in order to make it fit properly.

The build page is updated to reflect this change. I did not let the flex cable for the camera dangle like it does in the picture. It was secured to make sure it won't take any stress. I just don't happen to have a picture of it

 

[sebko200]

Yeah sorry that wasn't specified. As @PaulD-UK says, it's just a 5.5x2.5mm barrel plug. Either you have some old electronics that happen to have this type of cable that you can cut and use (just make sure it can handle enough current). I've circled the power cable for the R1811 board in the picture below.

On a side note, I updated my FaceTime camera setup to reuse the original plastic bracket. Now it is really secure and has the perfect angle I had a small issue where I was not perfectly pleased with the previous taped angle. I had to trim away some plastic in order to make it fit properly.

The build page is updated to reflect this change. I did not let the flex cable for the camera dangle like it does in the picture, I was secured to make sure it won't take any stress. I just don't happen to have a picture of it

Hi any tip on ordering on TaoBao, it seems GERMANY is not supported. But I am interested in buying latest R1811 with HDMI 2.1, which is only available there. Did You used an agent? Thx

 

[Aiwi]

Hi any tip on ordering on TaoBao, it seems GERMANY is not supported. But I am interested in buying latest R1811 with HDMI 2.1, which is only available there. Did You used an agent? Thx

No tips I'm afraid. I bought it while I was in China. You could try to reach out to them to see if they have any option to sell the HDMI2.1 version on AliExpress or similar.

 

[Pondering]

I'd be interested if you're able to overlock the monitors refreshrate with HDMI 2.1. It should be able to push 90hz at 10bit color uncompressed, but it'd be close. Best of luck!

 

[ironic138]

Hi any tip on ordering on TaoBao, it seems GERMANY is not supported. But I am interested in buying latest R1811 with HDMI 2.1, which is only available there. Did You used an agent? Thx

https://stonetaskin.com/products/di...een-external-monitor-1?variant=44211734904986 This one should be the one for you! They now offer the 2.1 Version. Don't forget the custom duties. I've ordered the T18 for 180$ and had to pay 50€ in duties. The 1811 is really expensive.

 

[fhall1]

https://stonetaskin.com/products/di...een-external-monitor-1?variant=44211734904986 This one should be the one for you! They now offer the 2.1 Version. Don't forget the custom duties. I've ordered the T18 for 180$ and had to pay 50€ in duties. The 1811 is really expensive.

WOW - the 1811 has really climbed in price since I started following this thread - must be lots of folks doing this upgrade! I also bought the T18 for $180 (from AliExpress) and was surprised that there were no Customs fees when it arrived (I'm in the US).

 

[sebko200]

WOW - the 1811 has really climbed in price since I started following this thread - must be lots of folks doing this upgrade! I also bought the T18 for $180 (from AliExpress) and was surprised that there were no Customs fees when it arrived (I'm in the US).

Thank You. And yes the prices are really high especially for R1811. Customs is free in Germany, but VAT is 19%. But not every delivery will end in customs so some kind of lottery

325 USD I am not willing to pay for 10Bit, but I managed to contact Taobao via chat and google translate.

Otherwise, I will probably consider the cheap 8bit JRY for 125 USD

StoneTaskin JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 5K Driver Board For iMac 27 inches A1219 A2

To create a good consumer experience, please confirm your LCD/LED Screen part number before ordering. If you're a wholesale/distributor in your country please contact us for a better price and the best logistic options Please feel free to ask any questions about the product Every order is...

stonetaskin.com

or the T18 for 225 USD

27 ''iMac A1419 A2115 5K LCD Controller DP 1,4 Typ-c Fahrer Bord DIY Monitor kit Für LM270QQ1 LM270QQ2 bildschirm test mainboard - AliExpress 7

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

de.aliexpress.com

 

[Nesbi90]

I bought an imac with this screen without any other hardware, just case and screen for only 40USD.

What is the best driver board for a LM270QQ1 (SD)(B1)?
I want to use it with a Macbook air M1
I want 5k over 1 cable, I use the another port for a dock

 

[Pondering]

I bought an imac with this screen without any other hardware, just case and screen for only 40USD.

What is the best driver board for a LM270QQ1 (SD)(B1)?
I want to use it with a Macbook air M1
I want 5k over 1 cable, I use the another port for a dock

The "best" would be an R1811 board. But look into other boards to see if they can fit your needs, such as the t18/t19, or R9A18. Most sellers will either specify the firmware they're using, or will ask you to email your model number to flash. Any of these will do 5k 1 cable at 8 bit color I'm pretty sure, but only the previously discussed R1811 with hdmi 2.1 will do 10 bit on 1 cable. Finding one with HDMI 2.1 would be the main issue.

 

[Nesbi90]

The "best" would be an R1811 board. But look into other boards to see if they can fit your needs, such as the t18/t19, or R9A18. Most sellers will either specify the firmware they're using, or will ask you to email your model number to flash. Any of these will do 5k 1 cable at 8 bit color I'm pretty sure, but only the previously discussed R1811 with hdmi 2.1 will do 10 bit on 1 cable. Finding one with HDMI 2.1 would be the main issue.

Thanks

I have found a R1811 board with HDMI2.1 on aliexpress

5K Drive Board R1811 HDR 4K@144Hz DP1.4 For LM270QQ1 LM270QQ2 Thunderbolt 3/4 5120*2880 LM375QW2 LCD Screen Control Motherboard - AliExpress 44

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

My Macbook air M1 have 2 x Thunderbolt/USB 4 but is it possible to get 10 bit from this?

 

[Pondering]

I looked back through our thread here and it seems like the T19 also has HDMI 2.1. A few USB4 to HDMI 2.1 have been advertised to work 5k 60hz at 10bit.

 

[PaulD-UK]

The R1811 and T18/19 do 5K 10-bit over 1 cable. Either USB-C or DP, or USB-C to DP.
Macs seem to drive monitors better from the TB4 ports rather than HDMI.

 

[Nesbi90]

I Will use tb/usb4 to dp1.4 or usb-c from my MacBook M1 and it also support 5k 10-bit on t18/t19
( t19 don’t have usb-c)

But do R1811 v4 support 10-bit?

I can read R1811 og t18 also can charge my MacBook if I use usb-c.
Do it work good?

 

[PaulD-UK]

Yes. I have a R1811 monitor and it runs at 10-bit, using TB4 to DP 1.4.

One result of using USB-C PD to charge a laptop is that you need a more powerful PSU, and this will generate more heat, and the R1811 or T18 will run hotter.
This really means you have to work out how to fit an internal case fan to exhaust the hot air and keep everything cool.