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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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I used VHB tape and then some aluminium tape along its perimeter to secure it to the case.
If you want to have the iMac power button to break main power to the r1811 you can get a bi-stable relay.
I am thinking on internal vs external power supply: internal MW LRS 200 or simply cut and solder the original Apple cable and use it to get a clean look input for 24V from external power supply. Did somebody tried this?
external power supply:
pro:
+ less heat inside
+ no opening needed in case power supply is failing
+ no hazardous voltage inside of Mac (sure proper insulation and grounding, but it's still metal framing)
con: ?
external power supply:
pro:
+ less heat inside
+ no opening needed in case power supply is failing
+ no hazardous voltage inside of Mac (sure proper insulation and grounding, but it's still metal framing)
con: ?
The iMac’s inbuilt power socket has a good anti-electromagnetic radiation filter to prevent any interference exiting the sealed aluminium case via the power cable.
If this is bypassed then the sort of radiation that interferes with Bluetooth peripherals could escape.
Many PSUs only pass EMR certification with such a filter on their supply.
Some Macs are very sensitive to this.
If this is bypassed then the sort of radiation that interferes with Bluetooth peripherals could escape.
Many PSUs only pass EMR certification with such a filter on their supply.
Some Macs are very sensitive to this.
Yes, it did work... now even when I reconnect the iMac motherboard I still get a bad image...
So this is a word of caution to all who are enthusiastic to save money. I carefully read this thread from the beginning until the end. I settled on bying the T18 from Haijing Cool because I wanted a one cable solution: USB-C video, USB-C upstream data and USB-C PD.
I selected an external 9.2A - 24V power supply from MeanWell GST220A24-R7B since I wanted to have power over USB-C and wanted to keep the heat out of the case.
Did anyone have a bad experience with the T18? Can I somehow check whether they did send me a version suited for LM270QQ1?
What I also notice now is that even when I power off the display, the non-working sections are clearly visible.
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I think you got an hardware issue from dissembling the screen. I'm sorry for you
Did you smell smoke or something like this? Your display was not in this shape (pic 3) before you connected it to the t18?My T18 isn't working properly, too. I still get these blank screens with backlight on. The support from them aren't helpful yet. I asked for a replacement but haven't got an answer yet. They talked about moving the warehouse and something like this.
Which screen did you use a1, b1, c1? We can check the cables if you are interested. Send me a PM.
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My 2017 iMac is still in delivery. You mean the power connection has a filter build in, this will probably block DC current, which means the AC cable can't used without bypassing those.
Ferrite can be attached to DC cable to suppress high frequencies. But this is also valid for USBC and DP cables leaving the iMac casing. Ground shielding needs to be connected with frame. But there will be no BT/Wifi remain in my iMac. Filter Quality of the boards will be a good question.
But I will start with external powering anyway for first tests. And then I try to go in direction of @Aiwi super build, probably without USB Hub and ethernet. I big thank for the Aiwi's blog and all the infos here in this forum.
Are you sure you haven't damaged the flex cables connecting LCD panel to the PCB in the panel assembly? I've fixed similar issue on my screen but the damage was much less severe.
Aesthetics. The only reason I’m not simply buying a 4k monitor from Amazon and going on this journey
"Aesthetics. The only reason I’m not simply buying a 4k monitor..."
I haven't looked at the back of my DIY monitor for months.
I look at the screen for hours at at time.
Many hours a day if I'm involved in a project.
The 5K excellence of this screen - sharpness, colour fidelity, pixel-invisibility - is, for me, what makes "going on this journey" worthwhile.🙂
I haven't looked at the back of my DIY monitor for months.
I look at the screen for hours at at time.
Many hours a day if I'm involved in a project.
The 5K excellence of this screen - sharpness, colour fidelity, pixel-invisibility - is, for me, what makes "going on this journey" worthwhile.🙂
I went the external route - mainly for your second pro (not having to open the panel again).
My T18 has been running 4 to 8 hours a day for two months now with no issues at all. It certainly seems like you got sent the wrong connectors for your panel...or some of those very thin wires got kinked or twisted and broken internally, but didn't break through the insulation.
Hi together
I'm also on the edge to build my own 5k iMac Display. I already purchased a quasi empty 27" 2015 iMac and the corresponding display.
As I want to build the whole setup very price conscious and retain the stock look as much as possible without altering the case/shell I haven't ordered all the parts to finish the project.
@Tiberian7 : Your setup looks really clean and nice and i got inspired by your 5D controller. Could you explain the wiring a little bit more and could you map all functions from the original controller board to the new rocker button?
Thanks for all the cool inspirations in this forum and i'm excited to share my own build-up
Hello everyone,
I'm about to start converting my 2014 iMac and now I need to pick the board. What's the difference between those two pieces?
stonetaskin.com
stonetaskin.com
I'm wondering what causes so big price difference.
Thanks
I'm about to start converting my 2014 iMac and now I need to pick the board. What's the difference between those two pieces?
StoneTaskin JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 5K Driver Board For iMac 27 inches A1219 A2
To create a good consumer experience, please confirm your LCD/LED Screen part number before ordering. If you're a wholesale/distributor in your country please contact us for a better price and the best logistic options Please feel free to ask any questions about the product Every order is...
DIY 5K universal R1811 V.4 Driver Board Transform Your iMac with R1811 Driver Board: Unleash the 5K Screen Potential!
Unlock the full potential of your iMac A1419 A2115 with the revolutionary R1811 Driver Board! If your iMac's motherboard has been damaged, don't worry – the R1811 Driver Board is here to save the day. With this innovative solution, you can convert your iMac's high-quality 27-inch LM270QQ1 or...
I'm wondering what causes so big price difference.
Thanks
At first look, only the R1811 has a power supply included, and more ports
"I'm wondering what causes so big price difference."
The JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 has an older, less sophisticated video driver chip, and can only drive the monitor screen at 8-bit colour depth - millions of colours.
Its onboard audio amp is only 2 watts/channel, which is probably not really powerful enough.
It is a fairly new board, and there are no reports of its long-term reliability yet.
The R1811 is a more featured board which does 10-bit colour resolution - billions of colours - and has recently born upgraded to an HDMI v2.1 option, to allow 5K over HDMI.
The onboard audio is very usable with the original iMac speakers if you fit a pair of crossover unit.
It also has an I/R remote control, with which to operated the board remotely, which I find very convenient.
The R1811 (with its predecessor the R9A18) have been sold since 2018/19, and there are no problems with their long-term use - as long as they don't get very overheated.
The power supply which it comes with is a low price product, and may not be the best thing to use in a sealed-box iMac conversion. I used a better one in my R1811 conversion.
The JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 has an older, less sophisticated video driver chip, and can only drive the monitor screen at 8-bit colour depth - millions of colours.
Its onboard audio amp is only 2 watts/channel, which is probably not really powerful enough.
It is a fairly new board, and there are no reports of its long-term reliability yet.
The R1811 is a more featured board which does 10-bit colour resolution - billions of colours - and has recently born upgraded to an HDMI v2.1 option, to allow 5K over HDMI.
The onboard audio is very usable with the original iMac speakers if you fit a pair of crossover unit.
It also has an I/R remote control, with which to operated the board remotely, which I find very convenient.
The R1811 (with its predecessor the R9A18) have been sold since 2018/19, and there are no problems with their long-term use - as long as they don't get very overheated.
The power supply which it comes with is a low price product, and may not be the best thing to use in a sealed-box iMac conversion. I used a better one in my R1811 conversion.
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Thank you for such a broad explanation. R1811 will be more future-proof, I guess. I'll stick with that choice.
Isn't it true that the components on the board run on 5 or 12 volts and 24 volts are needed purely for the power delivery for the USB-C port?
I don't know enough about these kinds of things myself, so that's why I'm asking.
Otherwise I will have to install both a 24 volt and a 12 volt power supply for the fan, for example. Or a stepdown converter from 24 to 12 volts.
I was just preparing to answer a question written in german about using the DIY 5k display with an iMac Pro, but it has been removed.
In any case.
As I just tested connecting the DIY to the iMac Pro. I will post the result here. In case anyone should wonder how it works.
The desktop background image does not have the same size. But the app windows seems to be the same size.
The R1811 reports the resolution at 3840 x2160 @ 60Hz
edit: Most likely the DisplayPort versions causing this on the iMac Pro. DP 1.2?
In any case.
As I just tested connecting the DIY to the iMac Pro. I will post the result here. In case anyone should wonder how it works.
The desktop background image does not have the same size. But the app windows seems to be the same size.
The R1811 reports the resolution at 3840 x2160 @ 60Hz
edit: Most likely the DisplayPort versions causing this on the iMac Pro. DP 1.2?
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@Izzie24
One user reported that his R1811 monitor went black if he used too weak a power supply so too low a voltage does not seem to work.
Another builder earlier in this thread (@webhdx) got 12v for a fan from the board connecting to the long white socket next to the video out plug.
The pictures of the R1811 v3 board show the fan being powered this way, but the previous user used different pins on the long socket.
Your board may have the 12v pins labelled on the underside.
EDIT: Link to his full description.
Quote: "I use 12V output to power PWM controller for iMac fan. I haven't noticed any issues powering it this way, even though the fan running at 100% speed draws considerable amount of current. Fortunately it only ramps up when you connect a laptop to charge it via USB-C. I use Mac Studio with the display so the display runs cool and quiet."
One user reported that his R1811 monitor went black if he used too weak a power supply so too low a voltage does not seem to work.
Another builder earlier in this thread (@webhdx) got 12v for a fan from the board connecting to the long white socket next to the video out plug.
The pictures of the R1811 v3 board show the fan being powered this way, but the previous user used different pins on the long socket.
Your board may have the 12v pins labelled on the underside.
EDIT: Link to his full description.
Quote: "I use 12V output to power PWM controller for iMac fan. I haven't noticed any issues powering it this way, even though the fan running at 100% speed draws considerable amount of current. Fortunately it only ramps up when you connect a laptop to charge it via USB-C. I use Mac Studio with the display so the display runs cool and quiet."
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Thanks! Then i will read this complete thread again and keep my eyes wide open. But for the safety i can use the best some Mean Well 24 volt power supply. 😃