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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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I have read on a eBay listing a R1811 have stand-by-mode problems, is this correct? ( they write you have to turn off and on )
Do t18/t19 have any stand-by problems?
My R1811 does not have any stand-by-mode problem. And I can not recall anyone mention this
Okay, good to know
It is this listing
Reuse 27" 5K LM270QQ1-SDA2/B1/C1...-R1811 Controller Board Kit DP1.4 Type-C HDR | eBay
R1811 is a LCD MONITOR driver board that supports QQHD. The DP interface supports the DP1.1, DP1.2, and DP1.4 protocols support hard decoding of 5K @ 60HZ and 4K @ 144Hz signals and supports the DP ring connection function.
www.ebay.com
I have a T18 and have been using it daily for about a month now - no standby problems so far....which is better than my old Dell 4K monitor which required a turn off/on every couple weeks....sometimes even a reboot of my Mac before it would wake up.
Summary on different board capabilities:
R1811 (with fan):
1x USB-C + charging: 5k 10 bit (DSC, full RGB)
1x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC, full RGB)
no standby issues reported
R9A18 (no fan):
no USB-C
2x DP 1.2/1.4:
Dual DP 1.2 5k 10 bit (full RGB);
single DP 1.4 5k 10bit (not full RGB) - no DSC
T18 (no fan):
1xUSB-C + charging: 5k 10 bit (DSC)
1x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC)
2x HDMI2.0
T19 (no fan):
no USB-C
2x HDMI 2.1 5k 10 bit (DSC)
2x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC)
JRY (no fan):
USB-C + charging: 5k 8 bit
1x DP 1.4: 5k 8bit
1x HDMI 2.0: 4k 60Hz
U49 (no fan)
USB-C + charging 65w
single DP 1.4: 5K 8-bit
3 x HDMI 2.0: 4k 60Hz
----
connections:
USBC: Displayport Alternate Mode + Audio + USB 2.0 + Charging
USB-C to USB-C Cable (min Thunderbolt3 cable, not Apple charging cable)
USB-C to DP1.4 via cable possible (DP alternate mode)
HDMI2.1: cable with HDMI 2.1 port (min MacbookPro M2 Pro)
USB-C to HDMI 2.1 (only with active adapter dock)
If I missed something or did mistake please correct me.
R1811 (with fan):
1x USB-C + charging: 5k 10 bit (DSC, full RGB)
1x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC, full RGB)
no standby issues reported
R9A18 (no fan):
no USB-C
2x DP 1.2/1.4:
Dual DP 1.2 5k 10 bit (full RGB);
single DP 1.4 5k 10bit (not full RGB) - no DSC
T18 (no fan):
1xUSB-C + charging: 5k 10 bit (DSC)
1x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC)
2x HDMI2.0
T19 (no fan):
no USB-C
2x HDMI 2.1 5k 10 bit (DSC)
2x DP 1.4: 5k 10 Bit (DSC)
JRY (no fan):
USB-C + charging: 5k 8 bit
1x DP 1.4: 5k 8bit
1x HDMI 2.0: 4k 60Hz
U49 (no fan)
USB-C + charging 65w
single DP 1.4: 5K 8-bit
3 x HDMI 2.0: 4k 60Hz
----
connections:
USBC: Displayport Alternate Mode + Audio + USB 2.0 + Charging
USB-C to USB-C Cable (min Thunderbolt3 cable, not Apple charging cable)
USB-C to DP1.4 via cable possible (DP alternate mode)
HDMI2.1: cable with HDMI 2.1 port (min MacbookPro M2 Pro)
USB-C to HDMI 2.1 (only with active adapter dock)
If I missed something or did mistake please correct me.
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Also:
U49 (no fan)
USB-C + charging 65w
single DP 1.4: 5K 8-bit
3 x HDMI 2.0
Comes with its own Constant Current backlight board.
www.aliexpress.com
U49 (no fan)
USB-C + charging 65w
single DP 1.4: 5K 8-bit
3 x HDMI 2.0
Comes with its own Constant Current backlight board.
Stonetaskin 5k Driver Board U49 For Imac 27 Inches A1419 A2115 Lm270qq1 Lm270qq2 Conversion Board Screen Panel 5120x2880 Adapter - Laptop Lcd Screen - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Okay, R1811 have full RGB profile via USB-C (Thunderbolt)
what about single DP 1.4? no RGB?
And what color profile have T18 and T19?
The R1911 runs at 5K 10-bit RGB through a single USB-C to DP 1.4 cable.
Or YUV, you can choose either.
HDR can be enabled on both the monitor board and the Mac, but although extremely vivid, the colours are so inaccurate as to make it unusable except as a spectacle.
The T18/T19 seller's sales videos shows them running at 5K 10-bit RGB through a single DP 1.4 cable - from a Windows machine - but they are sold as Mac compatible, and users in this thread confirm that.
The T18 is also shown at 5K through USB-C, but no bit depth info is shown.
Or YUV, you can choose either.
HDR can be enabled on both the monitor board and the Mac, but although extremely vivid, the colours are so inaccurate as to make it unusable except as a spectacle.
The T18/T19 seller's sales videos shows them running at 5K 10-bit RGB through a single DP 1.4 cable - from a Windows machine - but they are sold as Mac compatible, and users in this thread confirm that.
The T18 is also shown at 5K through USB-C, but no bit depth info is shown.
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The R1811 supports 5K 10bit RGB on USB-C and both DP ports. See my testing here.
The source has to support DSC for either of these inputs in order to achieve this.
Also, it is not Thunderbolt. It is USB-C with DP alt mode, if we want to be really accurate.
@Aiwi How do you connect the crossover filter from the speaker to your usb sound card directly over an headphone jack or something different? The 1811 has only one USB-C. Did you use a usb-a to usb-c cable for the second usb-c at the iMac housing? And: Your USB-Connection is only usb 2.0, isn't it?
I want to solve these problems with a tb3 dock but I have no solution for the power for the board and the dock with only one cable. I was thinking about splitting one and connect it directly to the two power adapters because the boards needs 24v and most of the docks 20v. I don't know if any dc-dc converter gets enough current strength. As I'm not an electrician I'm not sure about this.
I want to solve these problems with a tb3 dock but I have no solution for the power for the board and the dock with only one cable. I was thinking about splitting one and connect it directly to the two power adapters because the boards needs 24v and most of the docks 20v. I don't know if any dc-dc converter gets enough current strength. As I'm not an electrician I'm not sure about this.
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Originally yes, I connected the crossovers to the usb sound card. I am revising this, and will connect the crossover filters to the amplifier on the R1811 board itself. I will install this item in the following weeks.
You can read on my github page what I did with the second USB-C port. (I wired Displayport to it)
The USB-A ports on the R1811 are USB 2.0, yes.
You can try with a tb3 dock, its definitively possible to do that. My only question is as to why? The r1811 has pretty much everything you might need
regardless, keep us posted on your progressBut these are only crossovers, too, what do you expect from the new ones?
Okay, so you have two video inputs in the iMac case?
my intention is to get usb 3.1 and two usb-c (usb 3.2 and tb3/4) in the iMac case because usb 2.0 is to slow for data transfer. But I want this with only two cables from outside the iMac case (power and tb).
I‘ve got a t18. My wiring intention was: DP from the board to the Dock, tb3 to Mac.
The Dock can handle the webcam, too. I haven’t decided over a microphone yet. Your selfmade mic is impressing, but I don’t think I’m able to do it like you did🙈
Does the T19 do full RGB? And is the HDR bad on all of these? Which one has the best HDR? TIA
THANK YOU!Yeah sorry that wasn't specified. As @PaulD-UK says, it's just a 5.5x2.5mm barrel plug. Either you have some old electronics that happen to have this type of cable that you can cut and use (just make sure it can handle enough current). I've circled the power cable for the R1811 board in the picture below.
On a side note, I updated my FaceTime camera setup to reuse the original plastic bracket. Now it is really secure and has the perfect angle
The build page is updated to reflect this change. I did not let the flex cable for the camera dangle like it does in the picture. It was secured to make sure it won't take any stress. I just don't happen to have a picture of it
Now I have a new issue, I can´t see which one cable on my power connector is blue so I can connect it to live on my psu, should I strip the cable maybe and then attach a cable with enough gauge for 24v 10a to extend it so it reaches my new PSU? maybe when I strip it I will be able to see the color to determine which one should be Blue to Live?
This is very challenging for me but excited to keep advancing
**Update: From page 36 @PaulD-UK recommends to
- Strip the cables and wire your own extensions
- Use multimeter to check what is live and what is Neutral
- Ground the PSU to the Imac case (just use silver tape to attach cable to anywhere on the case?)
Extra question: @Aiwi Are you using the DC-DC converter for the current board?
Attachments
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Yes, only crossovers, but with a neat connector for the amp output on the r1811.
Yes, two video inputs on the iMac case:
- USB-C port 1 on the iMac goes to the usb-c to the r1811
- USB-C port 2 on the iMac goes to the DisplayPort on the r1811
- (if I open the ram access door I have two additional full size ports, one DisplayPort and one HDMI)
You could use your multimeter to find out which one is live and neutral. On the other hand, AC power will be alternating and you can plug your power plug in the wall in any direction, so it doesn’t really matter which goes where. Just make sure protective earth goes to protective earth. I would screw it to the case, just like it is done by Apple. Silver tape might not be conductive and even if it is, it could loosen over time with heat.
With Current Board I guess you mean the backlight booster? No it does not have any dcdc connected to it. It’s only connected to the r1811. If you see the page, you can see it’s a 24V-5V dcdc that I am using. It’s going to the USB-A ports, ensuring they have enough current available for any peripherals attached.
Only downside of integrated Audio is, that you need extra app to control volume with keyboard keys. I read that Apple does not support this via DisplayPort (Alternate).Originally yes, I connected the crossovers to the usb sound card. I am revising this, and will connect the crossover filters to the amplifier on the R1811 board itself. I will install this item in the following weeks.
You can read on my github page what I did with the second USB-C port. (I wired Displayport to it)
The USB-A ports on the R1811 are USB 2.0, yes.
You can try with a tb3 dock, its definitively possible to do that. My only question is as to why? The r1811 has pretty much everything you might need
Other question does R1811 have a Mic port? Or do I need to use USB Audio anyway, if I want to use a Mic?
As per @Aiwi s build, I will be using this to connect the microphone
UGREEN Sound Card USB to 3.5Mm Audio Interface USB to Microphone Speaker
I recommend you see his GitHub page before attempting to do a Microphone mod since there are some things to consider
GitHub - aiwipro/5K-iMac-Studio-Display-Stock-Look: Converting a 5K iMac to act as a generic 5K display is nothing new. What is yet to be found is a conversion that keeps the stock iMac look. This is what this project aims to achieve.
Converting a 5K iMac to act as a generic 5K display is nothing new. What is yet to be found is a conversion that keeps the stock iMac look. This is what this project aims to achieve. - aiwipro/5K-i...
github.com
@vortexgently, it’s the “Ajazz AK820 Pro Mechanical Keyboard” from whatgeek.com for like $60.
Hi all! First of all, great thread! 🥳
I've opened my late 2015 iMac and ordered the R1811 driver board directly from stonetaskin.com. (link)
I am considering replacing its power supply from the R1811 with the Mean Well RSP-150-24 for its ON/OFF control feature, allowing me to use an Arduino (Attiny84) to activate the original Apple button for power switching.
The R1811 driver board I've ordered also has a power button, but I prefer a complete power shut-off for added safety. I'm planning to install a fan, which requires 5 or 12 volts, making the standard 24-volt supply somewhat inconvenient.
My main question is whether I can directly connect a 12-volt supply to the R1811 board, potentially through soldering, as I'd like to avoid using a USB-C connection to my MacBook to mitigate the risk of damage, opting for Display Port 1.4 instead.
I'm considering adding an "OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub" to my setup, but it requires 20 volts at 5.5 amps. Sticking with a 24-volt supply and using a step-down converter to provide 20 volts to the hub separately might be a better option.
With adding the OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub to my setup I can connect to the R1811 using a USB-C to DP 1.4 cable, streamlining the connection to just one cable to my MacBook. Additionally, I plan to connect the original speakers to the hub in the future, allowing me to control the audio from the keyboard as was possible with the original iMac setup.
Essentially, I'm dealing with power supply issues and would appreciate any assistance or guidance. I've been searching a lot and am fairly skilled, but sometimes need help.
Thanks in advance for any help.
P.S., opening my beloved iMac was quite nerve-wracking, but I managed to do it successfully on my own! 😊
//edit;
I'm still contemplating, but for the price of an OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub, I could also purchase a vertical dock for the MacBook. This way, I only need to connect the MacBook to the dock for it to charge, and I can remove the hub from the iMac, simplifying the internal setup. Then, by using a long USB-C to Display Port 1.4 cable, I can connect the R1811, and it's all set.
This way, I also won't have an issue with an additional 20-volt power supply for the hub inside the iMac.
I've opened my late 2015 iMac and ordered the R1811 driver board directly from stonetaskin.com. (link)
I am considering replacing its power supply from the R1811 with the Mean Well RSP-150-24 for its ON/OFF control feature, allowing me to use an Arduino (Attiny84) to activate the original Apple button for power switching.
The R1811 driver board I've ordered also has a power button, but I prefer a complete power shut-off for added safety. I'm planning to install a fan, which requires 5 or 12 volts, making the standard 24-volt supply somewhat inconvenient.
My main question is whether I can directly connect a 12-volt supply to the R1811 board, potentially through soldering, as I'd like to avoid using a USB-C connection to my MacBook to mitigate the risk of damage, opting for Display Port 1.4 instead.
I'm considering adding an "OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub" to my setup, but it requires 20 volts at 5.5 amps. Sticking with a 24-volt supply and using a step-down converter to provide 20 volts to the hub separately might be a better option.
With adding the OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub to my setup I can connect to the R1811 using a USB-C to DP 1.4 cable, streamlining the connection to just one cable to my MacBook. Additionally, I plan to connect the original speakers to the hub in the future, allowing me to control the audio from the keyboard as was possible with the original iMac setup.
Essentially, I'm dealing with power supply issues and would appreciate any assistance or guidance. I've been searching a lot and am fairly skilled, but sometimes need help.
Thanks in advance for any help.
P.S., opening my beloved iMac was quite nerve-wracking, but I managed to do it successfully on my own! 😊
//edit;
I'm still contemplating, but for the price of an OWC Thunderbolt 4 hub, I could also purchase a vertical dock for the MacBook. This way, I only need to connect the MacBook to the dock for it to charge, and I can remove the hub from the iMac, simplifying the internal setup. Then, by using a long USB-C to Display Port 1.4 cable, I can connect the R1811, and it's all set.
This way, I also won't have an issue with an additional 20-volt power supply for the hub inside the iMac.
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Aiwi, how did you fasten/secure your power supply?Yeah sorry that wasn't specified. As @PaulD-UK says, it's just a 5.5x2.5mm barrel plug. Either you have some old electronics that happen to have this type of cable that you can cut and use (just make sure it can handle enough current). I've circled the power cable for the R1811 board in the picture below.
On a side note, I updated my FaceTime camera setup to reuse the original plastic bracket. Now it is really secure and has the perfect angle
The build page is updated to reflect this change. I did not let the flex cable for the camera dangle like it does in the picture. It was secured to make sure it won't take any stress. I just don't happen to have a picture of it