I don’t have experience with a flashlight. Where exactly should I shine it?
I tried both HDMI and DP cables, both are completely new, and the result is the same.
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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
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I tried both HDMI and DP cables, both are completely new, and the result is the same.
Did they change the cables included with the R1811 boards?
View attachment 2462185
And the backlight cables have a red cable to both connectors?
View attachment 2462184
It looks different on your photos
edit: never mind. You have a newer display than I haveMine is late 2015
Yes, I also noticed that my backlight cable looks a bit different.
Your:
1) 2 black, 2 black, red, red
2) 2 black, 2 black, empty, empty
And for me:
1) 2 black, 2 black, Empty, 2 red
2)2 black, 2 black, Empty, 2 red
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Hi all, started my build with a 2017 Imac 5k and and a JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board. I sadly have the same issue as others with not getting 10bit with USB-C. The cable was sent with the board and I can`t tell if it´s a good one. I ordered another one on Amazon (8k/60hz), should be here on Monday. I´m on windows 11.
Could you tell me how it looked and how did you understand that cable was broken?
I have no idea why people are focusing on 10-bit.
The iMac 27" 5k are not 10-bit panels. The Pro Display XDR 32" is a 10-bit panel.
But these displays have a glossy screen, a wider colour range (P3), and 5k resolution.
What more can you ask for?
I have used these displays the last 5 years, and I am still admiring the colour range and sharpness
@Regulus67
Did you mean the eDP output cable from the R1811 to the 60 pin screen panel connector?
If so, did that give a completely black screen, as @yurazazik is seeing?
@yurazazik Both types of backlight cable work exactly the same. The two sockets are – – + +.
Did you mean the eDP output cable from the R1811 to the 60 pin screen panel connector?
If so, did that give a completely black screen, as @yurazazik is seeing?
@yurazazik Both types of backlight cable work exactly the same. The two sockets are – – + +.
@ecma An alternative would be to use a USB-C to DisplayPort 1.4 8K cable, because all these boards work best using their DP input socket.
@Regulus67 The 2017+ screen panels are 8+2 bits FRC panels, and definitely show a smoother gradient when operated at 10 bits. However in practice, you are right, unless you are creating graphics it doesn't really matter.
@Regulus67 The 2017+ screen panels are 8+2 bits FRC panels, and definitely show a smoother gradient when operated at 10 bits. However in practice, you are right, unless you are creating graphics it doesn't really matter.
Thank you PaulD-UK for your quick reply.
I do not plan to power a laptop so I will give it a try with the 6 wires and see if it works and I will post back.
One more question:
Do you believe that using all 12 wires might damage the JRY--SA1 board?
Thank you.
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@traxap You can use 12 wires, but the input connector to the board needs only 2 wires, so you have to reduce the number of wire somewhere...
The top 6 wires on the PSU plug are positive, and the bottom 6 are negative, so check you don't mix them.
The number of wires you use doesn't make a difference.
The top 6 wires on the PSU plug are positive, and the bottom 6 are negative, so check you don't mix them.
The number of wires you use doesn't make a difference.
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Yes the eDP to the R1811 connector end.
But not the same error as yurazazik is seeing.
My R1811 would not start, and the power brick had a red diode light when it was faulty.
With the new eDP cable it lit up green, and everything was fine.
Oh don't get me wrong, the display looks stunning. For me it's more a thing of "I payed for it, so I want it"
@PaulD-UK - Just to make sure I get it right.@traxap You can use 12 wires, but the input connector to the board needs only 2 wires, so you have to reduce the number of wire somewhere...
The top 6 wires on the PSU plug are positive, and the bottom 6 are negative, so check you don't mix them.
The number of wires you use doesn't make a difference.
View attachment 2462222
The positive and negative rails as marked in the picture below.
I will reduce the wires down to two wires to fit the male connector to the board.
Thank you for clarification.
How do I know which way to connect cables? There’s no keying on the data cables and no info on the backlight cables. I’ve found three descriptions of the LED lights and they’re all different. I’ve found no descriptions on just how the data cables should connect. StoneTaskin has no info on anything.
LM270QQ1 (SD)(C1)
DIY 5K universal R1811 V.4 Driver Board USB-C Freesync EDP DP1.4 Compatible for iMac
I know enough about safe-to-mate to be scared of accidental power to data lines and destroying this $400 purchase on power on.
TIA!
and no info on the backlight cables. I’ve found three descriptions of the LED lights and they’re all different. I’ve found no descriptions on just how the data cables should connect. StoneTaskin has no info on anything.LM270QQ1 (SD)(C1)
DIY 5K universal R1811 V.4 Driver Board USB-C Freesync EDP DP1.4 Compatible for iMac
I know enough about safe-to-mate to be scared of accidental power to data lines and destroying this $400 purchase on power on.
TIA!
Attachments
StoneTaskin probably would give you the information if you contacted them.
Here are photos I received from StoneTaskin for my late 2015 iMac build (from a pdf document)
edit: If PaulID-UK says it's fine, it's fine. He knows far better than I do
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@DaveF
Everything looks fine in your pics.
The eDP video cable to the 60 pin connector on the screen looks fine.
Both plugs will only fit the correct way.
The backlight cable connections also look fine, but to check you should see three sightly raised circles on the black plastic of the screen's backlight connector socket on the side facing you when the outer red cable on the plug is at the right side.
Your pic looks correct, but it is not clear enough to see the black circles.
It doesn't matter which of the two backlight connectors plug into which socket on the R1811, as long as the red/black wires connect to the right polarity: – – ++ – – ++
Everything looks fine in your pics.
The eDP video cable to the 60 pin connector on the screen looks fine.
Both plugs will only fit the correct way.
The backlight cable connections also look fine, but to check you should see three sightly raised circles on the black plastic of the screen's backlight connector socket on the side facing you when the outer red cable on the plug is at the right side.
Your pic looks correct, but it is not clear enough to see the black circles.
It doesn't matter which of the two backlight connectors plug into which socket on the R1811, as long as the red/black wires connect to the right polarity: – – ++ – – ++
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@traxap - I'm very interested in your method of connecting the PSU to the SA1. I am strongly considering the same thing once I get the components to do my conversion (also a 2017 iMac). Which male connector on the SA1 board are you connecting to and how are you adapting the PSU connector to it? Or are you soldering directly to the pins on the back of the board?
And I realized that StoneTaskin didn't send me the cable to connect the Constant Current Board to the Driver Board. Anyone have a link to the right cable on Amazon. I can just order one and have it tomorrow.
stonetaskin.com
High-quality DIY Universal Driver Board 50W Current Board DZ-LP0818 R
For creating a good consumer experience, please confirm your LCD/LED Screen part number before ordering. If you're a wholesale/distributor in your country please contact us for a better price and the best logistic options...
stonetaskin.com
Many of those that have used the R1811 for the conversion have found the constant current board to be unnecessary. The R1811 provided sufficient display brightness by itself for their needs. You might want to evaluate whether you need it or not first... one less thing to jam into the iMac shell and one less thing to potentially cause issues.And I realized that StoneTaskin didn't send me the cable to connect the Constant Current Board to the Driver Board. Anyone have a link to the right cable on Amazon. I can just order one and have it tomorrow.
High-quality DIY Universal Driver Board 50W Current Board DZ-LP0818 R
For creating a good consumer experience, please confirm your LCD/LED Screen part number before ordering. If you're a wholesale/distributor in your country please contact us for a better price and the best logistic options...
View attachment 2462313
I'm guessing this is what I need.
ZYAMY 10PCS 6P Jumper Line 6 Pins 2.54mm Pitch Female to Female Jumper Cable Connector Multicolor Jumper Wire for Breadboard 20CM
Feature: Brand: Jumper Wire Jumper Cable Length: 20cm Connector: 6P Female-Female 6 pin header Use: Can be used for PCB project, pc motherboard etc Pin Spacing: 2.54mm
www.amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
No the R1811 has a 2mm pitch socket. That cable would probably fit the DZ-LP0818 CC board.
It looks like a 6 pin JST PH 2mm pitch plug to a JST XH 2.54mm pitch plug.
But it probably needs higher gauge wire than PH cables normally use, as the backlight LEDs are quite high current.
Maybe it will be better to get it made, or DIY….
I agree about the R1811 being fine without it. Unless you’re going to use the screen in sunlight.
It looks like a 6 pin JST PH 2mm pitch plug to a JST XH 2.54mm pitch plug.
But it probably needs higher gauge wire than PH cables normally use, as the backlight LEDs are quite high current.
Maybe it will be better to get it made, or DIY….
I agree about the R1811 being fine without it. Unless you’re going to use the screen in sunlight.
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Thanks. I might have to forgo and eat the $30 purchase.
But I use the computer in a home office with a bay window that can be bright in the mornings. And I've bought the board $30 board and have it sitting here, so I'd like to install it to see how it goes.
I've sent a note to StoneTasking telling them the cable wasn't included, to see what they say. But I'm not thrilled to wait another couple weeks for that to show up if they can send one.