Helpful! Only thing missing is to understand whether it is 10 bit RGB or 10 bit YCbCr - this will make a difference to some users. It looks like @PaulD-UK was able to show that in his "Colour Mode" screen grab. Are you able to find a similar menu with a Color Mode option that shows the RGB details?
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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
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I’m considering the R1811 because the PBP Picture By Picture feature intrigues me. I haven’t seen this mentioned in this thread yet!
Can someone with the R1811 share their experience using PBP?
• What is the quality of the scaled down image?
• Would it be possible to set the the output of the Mac to be half the width of the actual screen, and if this were done on 2 Macs would the Picture by Picture fill the entire display instead of wasting so much vertical real estate?
• Can the board be set to rotate the image 90 degrees, and would the PBP be “stacked” to be Picture OVER Picture?
Can someone with the R1811 share their experience using PBP?
• What is the quality of the scaled down image?
• Would it be possible to set the the output of the Mac to be half the width of the actual screen, and if this were done on 2 Macs would the Picture by Picture fill the entire display instead of wasting so much vertical real estate?
• Can the board be set to rotate the image 90 degrees, and would the PBP be “stacked” to be Picture OVER Picture?
Hello, been lurking here a while, reading and working out what setup would be best for me. In the end I went for the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board, for 10-bit, single cable reasons, and the potential to add a USB camera and microphone.
There were some discussions two pages back about powering this board.
Given the choice between using the original PSU and a 12v to 24v convertor or just getting a 24v PSU and hooking it up to the original power cable, which option would people recommend?
Is a PSU like this one suitable :
www.aliexpress.com
If not I can pick up a meanwell lrs-150-24 for about 17 francs here in Switzerland.
There were some discussions two pages back about powering this board.
Given the choice between using the original PSU and a 12v to 24v convertor or just getting a 24v PSU and hooking it up to the original power cable, which option would people recommend?
Is a PSU like this one suitable :
Led Lights Strip Power Supply | 24v Led Strips Power Supply - Dc 12v 24v Switching - Aliexpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
If not I can pick up a meanwell lrs-150-24 for about 17 francs here in Switzerland.
Alright so the new 8k cable Usb-C to Usb-C is still stuck at 5k 8bit. I ordered a DP to Usb-C cable an then it should be 10bit according to the spec sheet you posted. If not, then maybe DSC is disabled on my Dell XPS? Will fiddle a bit more.
Ok seems that Dell indeed disabled DSC by default... Will try to enable it this evening and report back.
@6-Colors
I've done a quick test of the PBP and PiP modes.
I've only got one input source, but the effect is OK as a test, as the various panes just show the same input.
All the settings are manipulatable in appropriate sub-menus that appears once you are in the mode, so the panes can be adjusted to be anywhere on the screen.
But no pane can be more than 50% width, so you can't get complete overlap - only inlay in PiP.
However.
I am using the old V04 firmware, which is no longer sold.
I haven't got access to the new RealTek firmware at the moment.
So I've tested PBP, PiP, 3Flag and 3Skew modes.
With 3Skew modes, which does full height on one side, and two vertical tiles on the other, it needs 3 inputs I think, as I just get a black 3rd pane.
Only PiP or possibly 3Flag/Skew might be any use...
The problem is the letter-boxing - horizontal squeezing, that you get in the PBP/3pane modes.
Pictures below - they're taken with an iPhone camera, and are compressed and reduced in size, but the quality of the text on screen is full resolution even at reduced size.
Also, the Rotate option in the OSD doesn't do anything, except it totally kills the display and requires a power recycle of the Display to get normal working back. 🙁
Anyway Rotate is handled by the Mac in System Settings.
I've done a quick test of the PBP and PiP modes.
I've only got one input source, but the effect is OK as a test, as the various panes just show the same input.
All the settings are manipulatable in appropriate sub-menus that appears once you are in the mode, so the panes can be adjusted to be anywhere on the screen.
But no pane can be more than 50% width, so you can't get complete overlap - only inlay in PiP.
However.
I am using the old V04 firmware, which is no longer sold.
I haven't got access to the new RealTek firmware at the moment.
So I've tested PBP, PiP, 3Flag and 3Skew modes.
With 3Skew modes, which does full height on one side, and two vertical tiles on the other, it needs 3 inputs I think, as I just get a black 3rd pane.
Only PiP or possibly 3Flag/Skew might be any use...
The problem is the letter-boxing - horizontal squeezing, that you get in the PBP/3pane modes.
Pictures below - they're taken with an iPhone camera, and are compressed and reduced in size, but the quality of the text on screen is full resolution even at reduced size.
Also, the Rotate option in the OSD doesn't do anything, except it totally kills the display and requires a power recycle of the Display to get normal working back. 🙁
Anyway Rotate is handled by the Mac in System Settings.
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Thank you for the photos and description!
Your first photo demonstrates the 2 images are full height and squeezed in half to fit horizontally.
If Better Display could set both Mac’s resolutions to 1280x1440 (half of full width) and the same PBP setting was used, would the two inputs be displayed side by side in “native” resolution without distortion? (Essentially two half-width displays)
@6-Colors I've only got the free version of BD and it has no options to set non-16:9 or distorted resolutions.
The R1811 is doing the pillar-box 1/2 width squeeze, so to work like you want the Mac output to the monitor needs to be a 2x anamorphic distortion of the horizontal axis.
The R1811 is doing the pillar-box 1/2 width squeeze, so to work like you want the Mac output to the monitor needs to be a 2x anamorphic distortion of the horizontal axis.
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Looking for recommendations on which driver board best meets the following requirements:
• LM270QQ1 SDB1 support
• At least 2 inputs at 5k 10-bit over single cable to M4 Macs
• No USB-C charging needed
• No USB3 needed
• No Audio needed
• Minimal power consumption and heat production
• 5k HDMI would be nice
It seems the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 is the best choice? Is this the same as the SA1; but with 2 DP instead of 1 DP & 1 USB-C?
Also, the Stonetaskin site says 24V for the FA1; but this thread has mentioned it can work with just 12V. Can someone confirm 12V?
• LM270QQ1 SDB1 support
• At least 2 inputs at 5k 10-bit over single cable to M4 Macs
• No USB-C charging needed
• No USB3 needed
• No Audio needed
• Minimal power consumption and heat production
• 5k HDMI would be nice
It seems the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 is the best choice? Is this the same as the SA1; but with 2 DP instead of 1 DP & 1 USB-C?
Also, the Stonetaskin site says 24V for the FA1; but this thread has mentioned it can work with just 12V. Can someone confirm 12V?
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@Beetrootman
It seems that the JRY--SA1 could work with 12v, but it is designed to use 24v, and probably performs better with higher voltage.
In general there are big differences between LED lighting PSUs and Computer PSUs.
LED lighting depends on constant current, and the voltage is allowed to vary to ensure the current stays the same.
They may no be stable and if the voltage output is 'noisy' it doesn't interfere with LED operation.
Computer PCBs can be very intolerant of voltage fluctuations, and 'noisy' EMF (electro magnetic fields) have to be eliminated.
If the PSU has a manufacturer's data sheet you can see if the PSU has a performance that will work well in a computer monitor. That AliExpress PSU might work, or it might cause problems...
The Meanwell one comes with a data sheet, which shows it is designed to power electronic circuits...
It seems that the JRY--SA1 could work with 12v, but it is designed to use 24v, and probably performs better with higher voltage.
In general there are big differences between LED lighting PSUs and Computer PSUs.
LED lighting depends on constant current, and the voltage is allowed to vary to ensure the current stays the same.
They may no be stable and if the voltage output is 'noisy' it doesn't interfere with LED operation.
Computer PCBs can be very intolerant of voltage fluctuations, and 'noisy' EMF (electro magnetic fields) have to be eliminated.
If the PSU has a manufacturer's data sheet you can see if the PSU has a performance that will work well in a computer monitor. That AliExpress PSU might work, or it might cause problems...
The Meanwell one comes with a data sheet, which shows it is designed to power electronic circuits...
Thank you Paul. Based on my list of requirements, do you think the FA1 is a good choice? I haven’t seen many people share experiences with it.
So I've set up my 2017 5k Display with the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board to my M4 mini. Everything is working and looks good, I wired the daughter board power button to the OEM power button and the power supply (12V 5A) to the OEM power cable housing so that I can use the original cord. The only issue I seem to be having is that the screen will briefly flash gray on the desktop, kind of like it is reconfiguring the resolution. I currently have it wired through the display port to usb c running at 5120 × 2880. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
@6-Colors - Some thoughts from my perspective... @PaulD-UK can correct anything I might have incorrect.
1. You stated you were looking for at least 2 inputs at 5k 10-bit, but then also stated 5k HDMI would be nice. If 10 bit is also desired over HDMI, you are pretty much stuck with the R1811 - no one has posted anything stating 5k 10-bit has been achieved using any other card. The bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 is capable of supporting 5k 10-bit, so it is possible other HDMI 2.1 boards also support 10 bit - we just don't have anything to confirm it yet (unless I have missed something in the thread). Maybe we will get lucky and someone will see these postings and provide an update on HDMI with these other boards...
2. You are correct there isn't much in the thread about the FA1, but those that have shared details have generally reported positive outcomes.
3. Overall, given your list of requirements/desires, I think you are generally trying to decide between the FA1, the SA1, and the R1811 (Note: Although the Haijing boards perform well and would also meet your requirements, there are some concerns about continued development and support for them).
- The R1811 is approximately US$80-90 more expensive than the SA1, which is about US$30-40 more expensive than the FA1
- Although it might not be a concern for your planned use case (no USB-C charging, no audio, etc.), the heat production of the R1811 is generally expected to be higher than the FA1 and SA1
- The R1811 is the board with the most complete and detailed information in this thread. However, we are starting to learn more about the SA1 recently thanks to some members like @traxap
- In comparing the SA1 to the FA1, both will provide single cable 5k 10-bit connections to 2 computers (FA1 via the two DP connections and the SA1 via the DP connection and USB-C connection). However, the SA1 brings HDMI 2.1 capability with it which the FA1 does not. If the most capable HDMI connection is important to you this should probably be considered.
If I were in your position, I would probably rank the boards in this order: SA1, FA1, R1811. I put the FA1 before the R1811 only due to the large price difference.
I hope the above helps and I also hope @PaulD-UK doesn't find too much incorrect in my assessment above!
@SubDriver thank you so much for the recap. You have confirmed what I have researched as well.@6-Colors - Some thoughts from my perspective... @PaulD-UK can correct anything I might have incorrect.
1. You stated you were looking for at least 2 inputs at 5k 10-bit, but then also stated 5k HDMI would be nice. If 10 bit is also desired over HDMI, you are pretty much stuck with the R1811 - no one has posted anything stating 5k 10-bit has been achieved using any other card. The bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 is capable of supporting 5k 10-bit, so it is possible other HDMI 2.1 boards also support 10 bit - we just don't have anything to confirm it yet (unless I have missed something in the thread). Maybe we will get lucky and someone will see these postings and provide an update on HDMI with these other boards...
2. You are correct there isn't much in the thread about the FA1, but those that have shared details have generally reported positive outcomes.
3. Overall, given your list of requirements/desires, I think you are generally trying to decide between the FA1, the SA1, and the R1811 (Note: Although the Haijing boards perform well and would also meet your requirements, there are some concerns about continued development and support for them).
- The R1811 is approximately US$80-90 more expensive than the SA1, which is about US$30-40 more expensive than the FA1
- Although it might not be a concern for your planned use case (no USB-C charging, no audio, etc.), the heat production of the R1811 is generally expected to be higher than the FA1 and SA1
- The R1811 is the board with the most complete and detailed information in this thread. However, we are starting to learn more about the SA1 recently thanks to some members like @traxap
- In comparing the SA1 to the FA1, both will provide single cable 5k 10-bit connections to 2 computers (FA1 via the two DP connections and the SA1 via the DP connection and USB-C connection). However, the SA1 brings HDMI 2.1 capability with it which the FA1 does not. If the most capable HDMI connection is important to you this should probably be considered.
If I were in your position, I would probably rank the boards in this order: SA1, FA1, R1811. I put the FA1 before the R1811 only due to the large price difference.
I hope the above helps and I also hope @PaulD-UK doesn't find too much incorrect in my assessment above!
SA1 has an edge for me because it has HDMI 2.1 which should support 5k. I can’t justify having two additional inputs, only to be limited to 4K.
The stonetaskin website indicates FA1 and SA1 both use the same chip: MediaTek MT9801V WQT/BG so I’m surprised they both don’t have HDMI 2.1!
I’m hoping to not use a fan because I’d like silent operation. Again, since they both have the same chip, I’m imagining they have the same heat production under the same conditions.
@celebrityratowner - A few questions that might help others diagnose the problem.
1. When does the screen briefly flash gray on the desktop? At startup? At random times while it is in use?
2. If the flashing occurs while it is in use, how often does it happen?
3. Are you using the board to drive anything else other than the display? (For example, audio, fans, etc.)
4. What is your host computer and OS version?
@SubDriver @6-Colors Just a couple of points. 😃
"If 10 bit is also desired over HDMI, you are pretty much stuck with the R1811 - no one has posted anything stating 5k 10-bit has been achieved using any other card."
"However, the SA1 brings HDMI 2.1 capability with it which the FA1 does not."
Both JRY-W9RQUHD--SA1 and FA1 are specified as HDMI 2.1, so both will do HDMI 10 bit.
The question is whether this will be RGB (Full 4.4.4) 10 bit, or whether it is YCbCr 4.2.2 (also called YUV) 10 bit RBR (reduced bandwidth rate).
This matters for colour/text display, as YCbCr 4.2.2 is compressing the colour signal data. It is usually used for video monitors and TVs, where the precision of the colour display performance is less important.
The R1811 gives 10 bit YCbCr RBR by default, but with Better Display this can be set to Full RGB 10 bit.
No one has tried doing this with the FA1 and SA1 yet (AFAIK). So it may well be the same.
Note: To get this you MUST be using a certified Ultra High Speed 8K HDMI cable.
There a couple of brief reports - here and here about the FA1 using HDMI is from @DisraeliGears and @nullpointerninja:
"HDMI is atrocious compared to DP. Max resolution is 1080p and the colors are horrid. Some of this might be just in comparison to the glorious 5K, or maybe it's the cord I ran (I don't even remember what spec, it's just a random one I got from Parts Express)"
"macOS uses YCbCr by default instead of RGB when connected to the FA1 through HDMI and the colors are washed out and extremely annoying."
My own experience with running the R1811 with HDMI connected, is that HDMI is indistinguishable from DP, and even using an M1 mini, which is HDMI 2.0, and 4K.
At a glance there was no obvious difference. But I was using a proper HDMI cable.
Quote: "Although it might not be a concern for your planned use case (no USB-C charging, no audio, etc.), the heat production of the R1811 is generally expected to be higher than the FA1 and SA1"
We don't have any data to confirm that.
And I don't expect there to be any significant difference in power consumption and heat generation between the various boards, although the T18/19 have been tested and shown to need slightly more power than the R1811.
The R1811's heatsink fan is a design choice to allow a smaller heatsink which allows a slightly smaller PCB.
The SA1 is a perfectly good choice, as the two DP ports will both give good results.
The firmware isn't as fully-featured as the R1811's, as that gives a read-out of the displayed color mode.
And the R1811 has an IR remote control, which is invaluable for a constant tester like me... 😀
"If 10 bit is also desired over HDMI, you are pretty much stuck with the R1811 - no one has posted anything stating 5k 10-bit has been achieved using any other card."
"However, the SA1 brings HDMI 2.1 capability with it which the FA1 does not."
Both JRY-W9RQUHD--SA1 and FA1 are specified as HDMI 2.1, so both will do HDMI 10 bit.
The question is whether this will be RGB (Full 4.4.4) 10 bit, or whether it is YCbCr 4.2.2 (also called YUV) 10 bit RBR (reduced bandwidth rate).
This matters for colour/text display, as YCbCr 4.2.2 is compressing the colour signal data. It is usually used for video monitors and TVs, where the precision of the colour display performance is less important.
The R1811 gives 10 bit YCbCr RBR by default, but with Better Display this can be set to Full RGB 10 bit.
No one has tried doing this with the FA1 and SA1 yet (AFAIK). So it may well be the same.
Note: To get this you MUST be using a certified Ultra High Speed 8K HDMI cable.
There a couple of brief reports - here and here about the FA1 using HDMI is from @DisraeliGears and @nullpointerninja:
"HDMI is atrocious compared to DP. Max resolution is 1080p and the colors are horrid. Some of this might be just in comparison to the glorious 5K, or maybe it's the cord I ran (I don't even remember what spec, it's just a random one I got from Parts Express)"
"macOS uses YCbCr by default instead of RGB when connected to the FA1 through HDMI and the colors are washed out and extremely annoying."
My own experience with running the R1811 with HDMI connected, is that HDMI is indistinguishable from DP, and even using an M1 mini, which is HDMI 2.0, and 4K.
At a glance there was no obvious difference. But I was using a proper HDMI cable.
Quote: "Although it might not be a concern for your planned use case (no USB-C charging, no audio, etc.), the heat production of the R1811 is generally expected to be higher than the FA1 and SA1"
We don't have any data to confirm that.
And I don't expect there to be any significant difference in power consumption and heat generation between the various boards, although the T18/19 have been tested and shown to need slightly more power than the R1811.
The R1811's heatsink fan is a design choice to allow a smaller heatsink which allows a slightly smaller PCB.
The SA1 is a perfectly good choice, as the two DP ports will both give good results.
The firmware isn't as fully-featured as the R1811's, as that gives a read-out of the displayed color mode.
And the R1811 has an IR remote control, which is invaluable for a constant tester like me... 😀
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@PaulD-UK @SubDriver I received the following reply from stonetaskin:
Here’s some additional information regarding the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1:
- FA1 supports HDMI 2.1 – It is fully compatible with HDMI 2.1.
- Integrated Constant Current Function – The FA1 already includes a built-in constant current function, which supports maximum brightness without needing an additional constant current board.
- No Cooling Fan Needed – We do not recommend using a cooling fan for the FA1 and SA1 models as they come with efficient heat sinks. Feedback from other customers has shown that the cooling performance is more than sufficient.
The user reports of washed out colors vs. the information here leads me to believe it was their cables and/or settings.
Alright so I enabled DSC but no difference. Then I enabled HDR and tada 10bit is there BUT now I have washed out colors... As far as I can see I won't get rid of that.
Thank you! That did it. I can even see a difference in the settings menu, the colorchanges don't look like "stairs" anymore.
24V 5A DC Extension Cable
I used this extension on a 4K conversion which only used 12V; but the 5K boards need 24V. I run this extension outside the iMac so if/when the external PSU fails, I don't have to take apart the display again to unplug it.
Has anyone seen or used a 24V 5A rated barrel extension like this? Interestingly, the title of that item reads 12V but the description reads "36V 10A". I'm not sure how trustworthy that is.
I used this extension on a 4K conversion which only used 12V; but the 5K boards need 24V. I run this extension outside the iMac so if/when the external PSU fails, I don't have to take apart the display again to unplug it.
Has anyone seen or used a 24V 5A rated barrel extension like this? Interestingly, the title of that item reads 12V but the description reads "36V 10A". I'm not sure how trustworthy that is.
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I updated the table on page 83 (post 2051) with the FA1 HDMI details from StoneTaskin. I also updated it to reflect 10 bit color for any board with HDMI 2.1.