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I have now had my JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 setup running for a couple of days. I powering it with a Mean Well LRS-200-24. I have only tested the USB-C input and will mainly use it with a MacBook Pro M1 Pro 14". Some of my observations are:

  • The screen appears to be very bright (brighter than i remember the old 5K iMac).
  • I have confirmed that it actually gives 60Hz output.
  • System report says 90W power delivery.
  • I have used a 10 bit colour test and it appears to be 10 bit.
  • The iMac case is a lot cooler than my previous Apple LED Cinema Display 27 even though it is completely fan less.
  • I can control brightness and volume (but haven't tested sound) from keyboard with MonitorControl.
  • The internal usb-ports reports as USB2.1 Hub (Genesys Logic, Inc) in system report (have only tested with USB-C connection, not USB-B).
  • Sleep wake works as expected and takes about 3 sec to wake from sleep.
I used an iMac 5K (late 2014) for 7 years and have missed the sharpness of 5K so now it feels great to be back with 5K. However I noticed some kind of eye fatigue after the first day using it and might suspect it has something to do with the 10 bit color reproduction with dithering so I have now tested the software Stillcolor to see if the fatigue goes away. So far it feels better.
 
So that means you have to supply a separate USB 3 input connection from the Mac through the USB-B port to get USB 3 functionality from the USB-A ports....
 
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@Donald.l.Smith "
When I get a chance I'll look closer at the 60-pin cable connection at the AA1 board end.
It came already attached."


I'm only asking this because someone else had problems with an AA1 board because it came shipped to them with the backlight cable in the wrong socket, and they didn't realise it was wrong = picture failure...

Your AA1 arrived with the eDP cable plugged into the 60 pin socket labelled e-DP just above the heatsink, and not the similar 60 pin socket marked V-By-one on the reverse side of the board?
 
I’ve been reading up on this thread for a few months now, and I’ve purchased most of the materials I plan to use for the project and gotten to the point of testing a lot of the basic functionality successfully. I’ve also started modeling some 3D parts and printing them to align connectors to ports and mount my R1811 board. (Happy to share once I’m happy with them.)

From reading past posts, I see that there doesn’t seem to be an available connector for the speaker or stock imac fan to go to. I hesitate to cut off the existing connector to splice in wires because it will be easy to lose track. What have people found is the best way to get solid connections to each of these systems? If people are somehow just pushing wire ends into the connectors, I would love some detail on what type of wire worked for you, since doing so seemed less than ideal. Thank you so much in advance. I’ve been really enjoying the ingenuity and cooperation through this thread!
In the hope that my earlier question got lost and someone has advice, I just wanted to ask again. Does anyone have advice for how to hook up to the built-in speaker connectors and the stock fan connector? The connector is incredibly small and I am willing to try whatever has worked for others. Thanks!
 
@lehnek
There is no fan connector available so that has to be soldered.
There are wiring instructions earlier in this thread.
Or in a blog by @Aiwi

There is a crossover unit with plugs sold on AliExpress, so no soldering...

Here is an eBay link to that one:

However I've just found a newer one on AliExpress:

iMacCrossover.png

 
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@lehnek
There is no fan connector available so that has to be soldered.
There are wiring instructions earlier in this thread.
Or in a blog by @Aiwi

There is a crossover unit with plugs sold on AliExpress, so no soldering...

Here is an eBay link to that one:

However I've just found a newer one on AliExpress:

View attachment 2464952
Thanks so much for replying. I actually already bought the crossover units, so I’ll just be soldering wires on to the connections then.

I’ll definitely give an update and link some stl files when I’m all done.
 
@soisaac Only a couple of U49 users have reported here, and neither of them are active contributors of this thread.
They both has good results using MacOS to drive the board, although one reported problems with lo-res streamed video scaling...
Also not as much experience with Windows.

Do you mean you tried it with MacOS, and it only showed the right half of the image, and restricted it to the right side of the screen panel?
MacOS has a mode like that for computers that have GPUs that don't support DSC (compression).
This dual SST mode was used with the LG Ultrafine 5K Thunderbolt displays, and also the Dell UP2715K 5K TB monitor sold in 2015.
It's enabled by the EDID signal the monitor controller board sends to the Mac, and is only visible using a utility like Better Display or SwitchResX.

The R9A18 has this mode, and you have to have two cables from the Mac to the board (as does the Dell monitor).
It has different firmware, and this dual-cable mode is an option in the OSD, that the firmware enables.

So if your U49 has a similar 'dual input' mode then it would need two cables to work properly.
And the dual setting would need to be deselected in to OSD to get single-input operation to work.
All that is speculation, as I haven't heard of this mode of operation for the U49...

Only MacOS has this mode, so maybe that's why Windows shows a stretched image?
I've no expertise in the details...
Hopefully someone will be able to respond.

Edited to add further info.
Oops, I didn't see that you'd added more! On macOS (M2 Pro MacBook Pro), it was similar to what I showed with the Windows picture, where it displayed the right half of the display image across the entire panel (not half of the display image restricted to half of the panel). Also, the product info page states "DP 1.4 single cable 5K", so I don't think this is a situation requiring two cables.

Still waiting to hear back from StoneTaskin...
 
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@Donald.l.Smith "
When I get a chance I'll look closer at the 60-pin cable connection at the AA1 board end.
It came already attached."


I'm only asking this because someone else had problems with an AA1 board because it came shipped to them with the backlight cable in the wrong socket, and they didn't realise it was wrong = picture failure...

Your AA1 arrived with the eDP cable plugged into the 60 pin socket labelled e-DP just above the heatsink, and not the similar 60 pin socket marked V-By-one on the reverse side of the board?
What socket should the backlight cable be plugged into. eDP is just above heatsink.IMG_0324.jpeg
IMG_0325.jpeg
IMG_0326.jpeg
 
I’m afraid to say that everything is plugged in correctly so nothing is obviously wrong.
If the cables were plugged in when you received the board then it looks like StoneTaskin tested the board before sending, which I think they usually do.
So it seems like a eDP cable or screen problem?
 
Hi everyone, I’m still struggling with the R1811. This time I measured the backlight voltage at the output of the board, and it is 24V, which, as I understand, is very low for the LM270QQ1 (CD)(C1) matrix. It should be about 39-45V DC. Friends, could any of you measure the voltage on a working board? Just use a voltage tester between the + of backlight and - contacts of power supply and let me know the result here. I would really appreciate it!!!
 
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@yurazazik The backlight LEDs in the screen panel work at up to 50-54 volts for full brightness, so your voltage is as you say, too low.

The R1811 data sheet has this to say:
装机注意事项;1-1 在生产过程中操作顺序是先连接信号线和控制线,(检查屏电
压跳帽是否正确,有 12V/10V/5V/3.3 路)检查连接正确最后才上电。

"Installation notes; 1-1 In the production process, the operation order is to connect the signal line and the control line first, (check whether the screen voltage jumper is correct, there are 12V/10V/5V/3.3 settings) check that the connection is correct and finally turn on the power."


For the iMac panel it is set to 12v.
Maybe your jumper is not making proper contact?
It might help to check there is nothing making this jumper contact not make a good electrical contact.

R1811Jumper.jpg
 
@yurazazik The backlight LEDs in the screen panel work at up to 50-54 volts for full brightness, so your voltage is as you say, too low.

The R1811 data sheet has this to say:
装机注意事项;1-1 在生产过程中操作顺序是先连接信号线和控制线,(检查屏电
压跳帽是否正确,有 12V/10V/5V/3.3 路)检查连接正确最后才上电。

"Installation notes; 1-1 In the production process, the operation order is to connect the signal line and the control line first, (check whether the screen voltage jumper is correct, there are 12V/10V/5V/3.3 settings) check that the connection is correct and finally turn on the power."

For the iMac panel it is set to 12v.
Maybe your jumper is not making proper contact?
It might help to check there is nothing making this jumper contact not make a good electrical contact.

View attachment 2465343
The jumper is set to the 12V position. And it does not matter what position is of jumper, every time it is 23.8V on backlight.
 
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@PaulD-UK @SubDriver I received the following reply from stonetaskin:

Here’s some additional information regarding the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1:

  1. FA1 supports HDMI 2.1 – It is fully compatible with HDMI 2.1.
  2. Integrated Constant Current Function – The FA1 already includes a built-in constant current function, which supports maximum brightness without needing an additional constant current board.
  3. No Cooling Fan Needed – We do not recommend using a cooling fan for the FA1 and SA1 models as they come with efficient heat sinks. Feedback from other customers has shown that the cooling performance is more than sufficient.
The confirmation of HDMI 2.1, silent operation without need for a fan, and 2 DP makes FA1 attractive to me.

The user reports of washed out colors vs. the information here leads me to believe it was their cables and/or settings.
Update: My FA1 arrived today! I've been tinkering with it for about 3 hours between my MBP M4 Max and iMac i9 2020 5K with AMD Radeon Pro 5500.
  1. HMDI at 5K is confirmed using 8K HDMI cables. The picture quality is indistinguishable from using DisplayPort. I'm not sure how to determine bit-depth.
  2. Brightness: No Constant Current board and the display is as bright as my iMac 2020. I find Brightness at 80 to be satisfactory.
  3. Heat: The heatsink is HOT to the touch. I have it resting in the open air and it would burn if touched for longer than 1 second. I'm somewhat hesitant about trapping it in the iMac without a fan.
  4. Color: After ColorSync calibration on my MBP it looks FANTASTIC. Using the same profile on my intel iMac with AMD didn't produce the same output. The real bummer is that it probably COULD calibrate to look better; but would require changing the board's hardware settings for brightness/contrast/temperature/etc. And that's a pain. It would be nice if each input (DP1/DP2/HDMI1/HDMI2) saved its own Brightness/Contrast and Picture Settings.
  5. Remote control: at first I thought a remote (included with a board for a 4K conversion) was a gimmick. But the buttons are somewhat frustrating. I wrote to Stone Taskin and they said they are working on an upgrade for the FA1 to possibly include IR in the future.
As it seems FA1 owners are a rare breed on these pages, ask any questions and I'll try to answer!

@SubDriver @PaulD-UK thanks for your input on Page 87 :)
 
I’ll be mounting the circuit boards and closing up the iMac this weekend. Any tips on positioning and mounting the boards? I plan to mount on the back of the LCD. But I’m not 100% on how to make sure they’re out of the way of the mount posts in the iMac body. I have the sticky-tape nylon PCB spacers to use. TIA!
 
Another iMac turned into a 5K Monitor using the R9A18 board
Please let me share my take on converting an old iMac into a high-resolution computer monitor.

Background
A few months ago I have been offered a nonfunctional iMac 27" by a friend. The machine, a late 2015 model A1419, would chime and initiate the boot process but never succeed and produce tons of kernel panic messages instead. All attempts to fix the problem were in vain. Ultimately I abandoned the idea of resurrecting an outdated Intel-based Mac and focussed on its most valuable component, the gorgeous 5K display (LG LM270QQ1).

Objectives
o Secondary display for a MacBook, hence no need for speakers and camera
o Input via Thunderbolt/USB-C interface
o Quiet operation, no fan noise
o No separate power brick, reuse the original power supply instead
o IR-Sensor hidden somewhere on the front side of the monitor for convenient use
o Clean look, no cables dangling from the back, no control buttons placed outside case
o No drilling of holes in iMac casing, no hot glueing of components

Converter-driver board evaluation
As I wanted to connect the display via a single Thunderbolt/USB-C cable, I initially favored the R1811 board over the R9A18 that must be driven from either two DisplayPort or two HDMI ports operating in parallel, if it is to support 5K resolution at a frame rate of 60 Hz. Another major difference is that the R1811 comes with a fan whereas the R9A18 just features a heat sink of decent size. After reading several user complaints about fan noise, I opted for a more adequate solution: Use a video splitter as front-end to the R9A18 in order to distribute the input stream across two internal DisplayPort 1.2 connections. An OWC `Thunderbolt 3 to Dual DisplayPort Adapter' was chosen for the purpose.

Power supply
Why use a separate power brick when there is a power supply in working condition? In the A1419 model, the built-in unit (Delta Electronics ADP-300AF) delivers a single regulated 12.1 V voltage and all other supply voltages get derived from there on the mainboard. The current rating of 25 A is amply sufficient for the 5 to 7 A drawn by the R9A18. Testing with 12 V light bulbs from car headlights revealed the power supply is always on as long as the iMac stays connected to the mains. A word of caution: Beware of the 230 V AC in the mains circuit and of the 390 V DC that build up across some capacitors! While I observed that the DC voltages dissipate within a minute or so after separating the power supply from the mains, I insist you check yourself before touching anything.

Manual controls
The R9A18 comes with a small PCB carrying five button switches, a bicolor status LED and an infrared (IR) receiver. The buttons serve to select the input source and to adjust display resolution, brightness, color saturation, etc. In order to preserve the sleek look of the iMac, I wanted to place the buttons in the existing USB slots measuring 4.7 by 12.5 mm each. This made it necessary to design a new control strip to accommodate four switches of rectangular shape plus a red and a green LED. A prototyping board with a pitch of 1/10" served as a basis. The fifth button is meant to turn the display on and off, so it came natural to lay a short cable to the iMac's original power button. The control strip connects to the R9A18 board via a ribbon cable and is being firmly pressed to the back of the iMac enclosure by two tailored pieces of cork. So this is not just a recycling monitor, it is also built from renewable materials ;-)

Another option for adjusting display settings is with a small IR remote control shipped together with the R9A18 board. As placing the IR sensor on the rear side of the monitor along with the button switches would not be very convenient, I removed the original iSight camera mounted at the top of the panel to make room for installing the IR receiver there.

Mechanical construction
Since the video splitter is to accept the Thunderbolt cable, it was placed such that its USB-C port can be reached from below through the open RAM door. If need be, an elastic device, referred to as `ClingOn Screw-in Cable Stabilizer' by OWC, can be used to secure the connection. The splitter box has no provisions for chassis mounting, however, so I prepared a twisted aluminium profile and a bracket to hold it in place. The two 50 cm DisplayPort cables connecting to the R9A18 driver board are rather thick and rigid which imposed restrictions on component placement and cabling. To allow the air to circulate care should nevertheless be taken to arrange the fins of the heat sink vertically, a piece of advice that has not been followed in all cases.

Throughout the construction process, I kept the hard disk mounting brackets in place and even inserted screws into most of the mounting studs no longer in use. Their lengths were adjusted such as to indicate the maximum height available for the new components and cables. Luckily, all threads were found to be metric.

Cabling
Originally, the power supply unit used to feed the A1419 mainboard via a 12-pin connector with 6 lines serving for power and 6 for current return (ground). I identified the correct Molex counterpart (micro-fit connector, pitch 3 mm), purchased 12 pre-crimped pigtails and manufactured four tree-like cables that connect to a 5.5/2.5 mm concentric plug fitting into the socket on the R9A18 board. The LCD panel receives data encoded in V-by-One HS signaling format via a delicate linear connector featuring a contact pitch of a mere 0.5 mm. The rather limited length of the cable requires attention during panel mounting and removal. Another particularity of the R9A18 board is that the two 4-pin backlight connectors are interchangeable while the outermost red wire must align with the outermost gray wire at the other end of the cable.

Let me conclude by expressing my gratitude to the unknown designers of the R9A18 circuits and to Mr Stone Chen of StoneTaskin who patiently provided me with technical details of the various converter-driver boards on the market.

View attachment 2379410
In operation before sealing of LCD panel

View attachment 2379411
Waiting for LCD panel to be mounted

View attachment 2379412
Back view
@Kaeslin kudos on a such a clean and beautiful design! After 7 months of use, I have a few questions:
  1. Heat: did you modify your design since this post to include a fan? Any indications that the heat may be affecting performance or longevity?
  2. Control Board: you indicated you used a "prototyping" board and cork to keep it in place. Can you provide examples and/or photos? How has it held up over time?
  3. Mounting: What method did you use to mount the board to the Mac? It doesn't appear you used the Mac standoffs.
 
  1. HMDI at 5K is confirmed using 8K HDMI cables. The picture quality is indistinguishable from using DisplayPort. I'm not sure how to determine bit-depth.
You can use AllRez to dump all the modes on an Intel Mac. It will show the framebuffer bit depth and the output bit depth. I don't think it can get that info on an Apple Silicon Mac.

Can BetterDisplay get framebuffer and output bit depths? It has a command line option to list all the modes.
 
@6-Colors
Nice report. :)
The hardware for the JRY--FA1 is evidently excellent, but maybe let down a bit by its firmware...
It will be interesting if StoneTaskin can improve it, and enable the IR remote function built into the board.

@joevt
Yes, without using the command line, the free version of Better Display can give fairly comprehensive data as to the output of the Mac.
Below is the data for a R1811 with HDMI 2.1 input from a M4 Pro mini.
But it's Colour Mode has the caveat:
  • Negotiated mode may differ from the listed parameters. Check visuals or display OSD info.
Which the OSD for the R1811's latest firmware allows, and confirms.
  • BD-ColourMode.png
  • BD-DisplayMode.png
 
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Anyone know if a Mac mini m4 can drive 5K by HDMI with the R1811? I see the R1811 supports it. But from Apple's tech specs, it no more than 4K is supported on HDMI for the m4 (not Pro). But if anyone knows otherwise, I realize I'd rather use HDMI and free up a USB-C port to connect a hub to.

@DaveF
According to Apple's Tech Specs:
HDMI display video output
  • Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz (M4 and M4 Pro)
So if you are not using two other displays from the TB4 ports, the M4 performs exactly the same as the M4 Pro.
Which means you should get the 5K/60 10 bit you want if you are using the HDMI 2.1 version of the R1811.
And you are using an 'Ultra Certified HDMI Ultra High Speed' 8K cable.

However...
MacOS has a quirk that means it often assumes it is a TV you are connecting over HDMI, and for TVs , YCbCr 4.2.2 is an acceptable colour mode.
So that is what you may get as the default even if it is a computer monitor that is connected, and you will need Better Display or SwitchResX to switch to RGB.

I read that as 4K @ 240Hz is supported by m4 but 8K @ 60Hz is m4 Pro only. (Otherwise that entire bullet would have been under the m4 capabilities. Or broken out as for both and not listed under m4 Pro with an ambiguous parenthetical. Apple’s tech specs aren’t well written.) I was hoping someone who has tried can confirm the meaning one way or the other. :)

"Otherwise that entire bullet would have been under the m4 capabilities"
I agree there could be ambiguity, but Apple are very precise, and they listed:
  • Three display arrangements...
  • Two display arrangements...
For each of M4 and M4 Pro, because each is different, and one USB-C display max is the same as with two.
Then, jointly for HDMI, because it doesn't need to be written twice:
  • Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz (M4 and M4 Pro)
So I take that bullet point precision to mean exactly what it says. :)

Hopefully someone will confirm it in practice.

I understand how you’re reading it. It might well mean that. Hopefully you’re right and I’m wrong on this. :)

If nothing else, I’ll buy the $15 HDMI cable and test it out when I have time after Christmas. 🎅 🎄

iMac mini m4 connected by 8K HDMI to R1811 driver board (in deconstructed iMac Franken-monitor setup), running 5K resolution. :D


Screenshot 2024-12-27 at 9.31.20 AM.pngScreenshot 2024-12-27 at 9.31.30 AM.pngScreenshot 2024-12-27 at 9.31.47 AM.png
 
@DaveF Does Better Display allow the selection of Color Mode 10 bit RGB Full range?
As in my picture in the post above, which is an M4 Pro mini.
It first showed 10 bit YCbCr Limited Range, as in your screenshot, but I could click to change the setting in BD.
 
@DaveF Does Better Display allow the selection of Color Mode 10 bit RGB Full range?
As in my picture in the post above, which is an M4 Pro mini.
It first showed 10 bit YCbCr Limited Range, as in your screenshot, but I could click to change the setting in BD.
Yes. This is with HDMI. (I hadn't noticed that Limited Range setting earlier.)

(Switching to HDMI also resolved Volume control with Better Display Pro, inexplicably.)

Screenshot 2024-12-27 at 10.09.08 AM.pngScreenshot 2024-12-27 at 10.09.23 AM.png
 
Jumpers I bought are too big for both boards. But now I’m pretty sure both connectors on the driver and current boards are 2mm pitch, so 6 pin JST PH 2mm socket-socket connector should work.

The downside, I can’t find such cable Amazon anywhere, short of spending $30+ to have the kits and gear to crimp custom cables.

EDIT: StoneTaskin replied, said there was a fulfillment error, and will send me the missing cable.
Has anyone used the constant current board LP0818? (High-quality DIY Universal Driver Board 50W Current Board DZ-LP0818 Resolve the Panel brightness problem) It decreases the brightness for me!


I've got a basic light meter and I'm measuring screen brightness of a white window. The screen maxes out around 500 lux without the constant current board but only about 350 lux with it.

I'm going to email StoneTaskin. But this might just be $30 and a day lost fussing with a useless constant current board.

1735313197181.png
 
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Brightness: No Constant Current board and the display is as bright as my iMac 2020. I find Brightness at 80 to be satisfactory.
Are you using a 24v or 12v power supply? I’m using a 12v 5a with this board, but i’m not sure if I get the full brightness capacity out of my 2017 panel. Maybe a 24v power supply will ‘unlock’ more brightness.
 
I’m using whatever the R1811 comes with. The daughter board doesn’t have a separate power supply.
 
Fixed the guts into place and taped it up for proto-qual testing :)

The monitor doesn't stay in place for tilting. It tilts all the way back -- not enough dead weight to counterweight the internal springs? How do you all address that?

IMG_7545.jpeg
 
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