DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[DaveF]

@yurazazik With the R1811 board the DSC switch is in the OSD Advance Menu Option.
With the older V04 firmware it is the last option at the bottom of the page.

With the new Blue OSD version DSC is on the 2nd page of the Advance options, so you have to scroll down to the 2nd page where it's the 3rd choice.

You do need Better Display to see what effect it is having.

What’s this newer R1811? I thought the v4 firmware was the latest variant?

Is there any way to get this newer (v5?) firmware? Maybe it fixes the DCC control problem.

The R1811 on its own does about 450 nits. With the DZ-0818 constant current board this increases to about 550 nits.

For normal use 450 is absolutely fine because you are not going to be doing colour accurate work with direct light shining on the screen.

In fact selecting the P3 colour mode reduces the maximum brightness of the screen slightly, presumably to maintain accuracy, so I don’t think it’s necessary to use the CC Backlight board.

Does anyone have photos showing the R1811 connected properly to the CC board?

My CC board decreases brightness. I couldn’t figure it out. StoneTaskin was no help.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@DaveF "What’s this newer R1811? I thought the v4 firmware was the latest variant?"

This is from StoneTaskin - And the HDMI 2.0 board seems to have this 'RealTek' firmware = they still sell the V04 firmware version at a lower price:

"My CC board decreases brightness. I couldn’t figure it out. "

I wonder if altering the R1811's DDC parameters with Better Display may have caused that?
Maybe DDC control of the CC board is different?

"Does anyone have photos showing the R1811 connected properly to the CC board?"

https://stonetaskin.com/cdn/shop/products/High-quality-DIY-Universal-Driver-Board-50W-Current-Board-DZ-LP0818-Resolve-the-Panel-brightness-problem_6b87fecc-473b-4251-9c8a-ecd518d1a2aa.jpg

EDIT: They only seem to be supplyng the earlier versions of the firmware.

 

[DaveF]

"Does anyone have photos showing the R1811 connected properly to the CC board?"

https://stonetaskin.com/cdn/shop/products/High-quality-DIY-Universal-Driver-Board-50W-Current-Board-DZ-LP0818-Resolve-the-Panel-brightness-problem_6b87fecc-473b-4251-9c8a-ecd518d1a2aa.jpg

I’ve previously reviewed their photos and that image isn’t accurate to the R1811 board and cables I received.

Maybe they didn’t send me the right cables. They did forget the cable to connect from R1811 to CC board. Maybe it was also supposed to include a replacement cable from iMac screen to R1811 too.

I’m about to seal up my iMac conversion. Since there’s no new and immediate answers to my issue I’m eating the cost of the CC board, leaving it disconnected, and moving on.

And since there’s monitor is bright enough without it, and since the R1811 DDC controls don’t work correctly for lower brightness levels, I don’t think I want to bias it brighter without good lower level controls.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@DaveF The only difference in that DZ-LP0818 photo is that it shows a single QQ2 LG 5K backlight cable.
The R1811 for iMac QQ1 panel has a backlight cable with two four pin plugs and so uses both outlets on the CC board.

 

[DaveF]

@DaveF The only difference in that DZ-LP0818 photo is that it shows a single QQ2 LG 5K backlight cable.
The R1811 for iMac QQ1 panel has a backlight cable with two four pin plugs and so uses both outlets on the CC board.

And there's no photos for the two cable connections for which one goes into the which of the two plugs. And I ran out of time / interest in trying variations to see if it mattered.

 

[PaulD-UK]

It doesn’t matter as they are electrically identical.

 

[DaveF]

I'm declaring completion and success.

 

[Sean3D]

If you are going to print it, I would appreciate some photos later, to add it to thingiverse, so other users will have references to it. And if we have failed in something... you tell me and we will rectify it.

hello @Xarl-li I'm just starting my iMac to Studio Display conversion by acquiring all the necessary components. I downloaded your STL files for my SA1 build and had them printed via a 3D printing service. Everything I had printed fits well except for the display driver board support. The spacing between the left and right set of mounting holes is about 13mm too wide for my 2017 iMac.


I wonder if there was a printing problem - or if the file (JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1.stl) is incorrect.
Thanks for uploading these files...it's going to make for good install!

 

[pnwkayaker]

Hello @Sean3D I'm in the process of converting a pair of iMacs 5K using the SA1 board (ordered them from Stone Tasking, waiting for their arrival); in the meantime I'm printing some of the 3D parts that @Xarl-li created (I'm designing a different part for the RAM door).

I printed the display driver board part and it fits great in my 2015 iMac 5K (see pics below). I don't know if the print will match the board until it arrives (hopefully next week) but it does indeed fit my iMac perfectly.

Could it be that your board got printed slightly bigger? Adding a pic of my print showing the width for your reference.

BTW folks, this is my first post, I spent over a week during the Holidays break going over the 88+ pages of posts, learning as much as I can. All of you (knowledge + willingness to help) are the main reason I've decided to follow this path. Hoping to have my iMacs completed in aprox 2-3 weeks (once the boards arrive and I finish designing some parts).

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Sean3D @pnwkayaker
Hmm.
There is a difference in the two different 3D-printed backing boards in your two sets of pictures.

It looks like:
@Sean3D has printed a backing board for the JRY--SA1.
This shows the two holes where the heatsink plastic clips need clearance.

@pnwkayaker has printed the original one that @Xarl-li designed for a JRY--AA1, which is a smaller board.
So it looks like that design (with the slot in it) only fits the smaller JRY--AA1

However you could probably drill new holes to match the SA1, and use 4 short stand-offs to mount the SA1.

@Xarl-li did the SA1 redesign for @tangjunhao and it's not clear whether the modified 3D file actually fits, and was used to finish a DIY monitor.
It does look like its just upscaled in size, without regard for the placement of the iMac's stand-off positions...
The JRY--AA1 is 87mm across the board, the SA1 is 100mm.

 

[pnwkayaker]

@PaulD-UK I thought I had printed the adapter board that @Xarl-li posted at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6840882 titled "iMacCinemaDisplay Convert JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1" but I might be wrong, will double check.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@pnwkayaker If you look at the second pic in your thingiverse link you can see see that the SA1 3D printed board looks like the one in pictures in the post by @Sean3D, not like your 3D print.

And it also looks like its too wide for the iMac stand-offs.

 

[pnwkayaker]

@PaulD-UK and @Sean3D you're completely correct, I re-downloaded and printed the SA1 adapter board from the thingiverse link and it's indeed bigger than the other one I had printed previously (must have confused the AA1 with the SA1 ). Once the actual SA1 arrive I'll see what needs to be corrected.

 

[mmyk]

Hi, has anyone got an idea at what frequency crossovers should be set to use original speakers? Those crossover kits from Aliexpress don't have any specs provided. I'd like to source filters locally and I can get anything from 200Hz to maybe 8k. I believe I saw some graphs showing 3200 or 4000Hz crossover point. I don't really want to fry the tweeters.

 

[PaulD-UK]

The 3 watts amplifier in the SA1 is not likely to damage your speakers.

Are you buying the AliEx crossovers?
If so, which ones?

I’ve done an analysis of the larger crossovers earlier in this thread.

Basically a 10 microFarad audio bipolar capacitor in series with the tweeter will give protection.

A 0.15 milliHenry inductor in series will the bigger speaker will give you a suitable crossover.

 

[mmyk]

The 3 watts amplifier in the SA1 is not likely to damage your speakers.

Are you buying the AliEx crossovers?
If so, which ones?

I’ve done an analysis of the larger crossovers earlier in this thread.

Basically a 10 microFarad audio bipolar capacitor in series with the tweeter will give protection.

A 0.15 milliHenry inductor in series will the bigger speaker will give you a suitable crossover.

I am planning to drive those speakers via external amp altogether as I always have a DAC with preamp on my desk. So I am curious what is the correct frequency to split the signal at for both avoiding magic smoke and the (reasonably) best possible sound output.

Looking at your analysis it looks as if the correct point is around 3200Hz, isn't it?

Importing stuff to EU is a bit of a hassle these days so I'd prefer to go to a local electronics supplier for the crossovers. They are not that expensive.

 

[PaulD-UK]

The tweeters have a spike in levels just below 3000Hz, so the rollover point needs to be above this.
Because the main speakers are deep in the iMac case on post 2015 models it is best for the stereo imaging to keep the crossover frequency at not too high a number.
The values I suggest are by trial and error, and give a reasonable compromise.

 

[Paik4Life]

First, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I wish I had seen this thread just a day earlier. I only stumbled across it from Xarl-Li's thingiverse page.

I just ordered the JRY AA1 not knowing it would be the least feature rich for "complex" builds.

I'm using my 2019 iMac (either my M1 or M4) that I gutted already and was prepping for the board.

Ideally I would like:

1. 5K through to my Mac Mini via one cable (I haven't read through the whole 90+ pages but it seems this might be a bigger ask) with 10 bit since my 2019 happens to support it (honestly I probably wouldn't notice the difference). Perhaps I should cancel my order and get a R1811 based on @PaulD-UK 's previous post, but at nearly 3x the cost of the JRY AA1, not sure if it's worth it.
2. Camera (will buy the camera I've seen listed a couple places)
3. Use of the original speakers (looks like I'll order the crossover kit now)
4. Reuse the iMac power cable and iMac power button (both seem like a minor job based on the video I saw)

Is there something I'm grossly missing?

Thanks,

~Paik

 

[Kaeslin]

Is there something I'm grossly missing?

You may want to think about your tolerance to noise. As I wanted my new monitor to remain silent, I opted for a fan-less design around the R9A18 board. Further considerations included video input over a single cable, paying attention to a good heat sink, orientating its fins vertically for optimum air flow, and keeping things simple. See the links below for further details:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33143392
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33298938
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33570584
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33673082
Reusing the speakers should be fairly straightforward, but was no necessity in my case.

 

[PaulD-UK]

Unfortunately the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 only supports 5K/60 at 8 bits.
It gives best results using a DisplayPort input, using a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K cable.

It only gives 5K/30Hz 8 bit using HDMI.

However most internet sites are only 8 bit, so the reduced colour bits aren’t noticeable unless you’re using 10 bit software like Photoshop.

Another factor is that I don’t think it supports DDC control of brightness and audio volume from the Mac’s keyboard. Other boards can do this with Better Display or Monitor Control software.
I think you have to use the AA1 board’s Control Strip, so make sure it’s easy to access.

 

[Paik4Life]

You may want to think about your tolerance to noise. As I wanted my new monitor to remain silent, I opted for a fan-less design around the R9A18 board. Further considerations included video input over a single cable, paying attention to a good heat sink, orientating its fins vertically for optimum air flow, and keeping things simple. See the links below for further details:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33143392
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33298938
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33570584
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33673082
Reusing the speakers should be fairly straightforward, but was no necessity in my case.

Thank you. This was really helpful. Thanks for pointing me to some detailed specific posts. Now I'm torn between going with R1811 and your setup with the R9A18. I like the reuse of the original power supply and the reuse of the USB ports as well.

More to ponder/research before I make a decision.

Unfortunately the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 only supports 5K/60 at 8 bits.
It gives best results using a DisplayPort input, using a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K cable.

It only gives 5K/30Hz 8 bit using HDMI.

However most internet sites are only 8 bit, so the reduced colour bits aren’t noticeable unless you’re using 10 bit software like Photoshop.

Another factor is that I don’t think it supports DDC control of brightness and audio volume from the Mac’s keyboard. Other boards can do this with Better Display or Monitor Control software.
I think you have to use the AA1 board’s Control Strip, so make sure it’s easy to access.

Thank you for this info. Ah that's also something I didn't realize regarding DDC. That is definitely a quality of life improvement.

~Paik

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Paik4Life "Now I'm torn between going with R1811 and your setup with the R9A18."

One thing to balance is that to get 5K/60 10 bits the R9A18 must be driven by two cables (DP 1.2 or higher).
So to connect this to a Mac with a single cable it has to be a TB3/4 cable, and you have to use a TB3 to Dual DP adapter, with Mac extended display compatibility.
(Check the local cost of one, they are cheaper in the US than in the UK).

The R1811 only requires USB-C (8K video) cabling, however using TB3/4 is often used to guarantee the higher quality that is desirable. Or USB-C to DP 1.4 8K.

However the R1811 must use ~24V, so a reliable PSU has to be sourced.

These are added cost factors when comparing the R1811 against the R9A18.

 

[Xarl-li]

hello @Xarl-li I'm just starting my iMac to Studio Display conversion by acquiring all the necessary components. I downloaded your STL files for my SA1 build and had them printed via a 3D printing service. Everything I had printed fits well except for the display driver board support. The spacing between the left and right set of mounting holes is about 13mm too wide for my 2017 iMac.

View attachment 2473628View attachment 2473627View attachment 2473626
I wonder if there was a printing problem - or if the file (JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1.stl) is incorrect.
Thanks for uploading these files...it's going to make for good install!

Excus-me my absence ....the desing is for Imac later 2015 27" 5k ,¿Is it possible that your imac is another version?

I just reviewed the dimensions and I don't understand why you have them different.

 

[Xarl-li]

@PaulD-UK and @Sean3D you're completely correct, I re-downloaded and printed the SA1 adapter board from the thingiverse link and it's indeed bigger than the other one I had printed previously (must have confused the AA1 with the SA1 ). Once the actual SA1 arrive I'll see what needs to be corrected.

What is it? Both plates were designed to fit the same supports imac 2015 later 27" 5K

 

[Xarl-li]

hello @Xarl-li I'm just starting my iMac to Studio Display conversion by acquiring all the necessary components. I downloaded your STL files for my SA1 build and had them printed via a 3D printing service. Everything I had printed fits well except for the display driver board support. The spacing between the left and right set of mounting holes is about 13mm too wide for my 2017 iMac.

View attachment 2473628View attachment 2473627View attachment 2473626
I wonder if there was a printing problem - or if the file (JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1.stl) is incorrect.
Thanks for uploading these files...it's going to make for good install!

Sorry for the delay, at work my free tiem is absrved. Well if you givme the exat measurement from center of the thread, i can modify than distance. Do the rest other threee fit well?