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@ItsAShaunParty
"I’d like to repurpose the iMac’s original power button and plug..."

To use the iMac's original power button, you wire the cable from the button in parallel to the Control Strip power-on switch K1, pins 3 and 4 (from L) Gnd and Power on the ribbon cable. The plug isn't really usable, as the wire needs to be extended, and soldering is easier.

View attachment 2488406

"I'd love to use a remote control..."
Yes, StoneTaskin sell the remote control that works with the R1811.
This pic shows the same remote control that works with the R1811, R9A18 and the R9513 V5 board for 4K 21.5" iMacs.
The IR receiver is on the Control Strip next to the ribbon cable, so this needs to be able to receive the signal from the remote.
On my conversion I find it works fine inside the back of the case, so the Strip can be hidden away.
I put a dark plastic window that passes the IR signals through to the inside.

View attachment 2488398

Apple fits iMacs with multiple internal microphones which are mixed through a Digital Signal Processor to get good noise reduction and clear output.

This is more or less impossible to recreate in a DIY build, though people have added a single microphone, like @Aiwi did in his blog.
Generally the results are mixed. Every YouTuber uses an external close range microphone, because that is the only way to get good sound...
An iPhone using Continuity Camera for a webcam also does sound with Apple's magic touch. 🫨

anyone have the raw IR codes?

i -really- dont need yet another remote, but have plenty of solutions for transmitting IR codes...
 
@erihp "anyone have the raw IR codes?"

Looking at Vishay's catalogue of IR receiver diodes, the specification of the one used in the Control Strip appears to be recommended for 'NEC, Mitsubishi, Sejin 4PPM, Sharp' control codes.

But that is something of a guess, because there are 7 different ones with the right form factor and 38kHz carrier frequency.

FWIW, just reading the catalogue, and without testing*, my best guess is that the IR diode receiver used for the R1811 etc Control Strip is TSOP14638, or TSOP14438, but it could be TSOP94638.

* I have checked my R1811 remote control with a 38kHz carrier Arduino IR receiver diode, and confirmed that a signal is received. Whether that is the optimum frequency I don't know, but it seems to be the default and only manufacturers like Sony or Panasonic use other frequencies...
 
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I have a late 2015 iMac (A1419) that I want to convert into a monitor, but I see a few different choices for driver boards on aliexpress. Is there a comparison table somewhere that shows the differences between these boards? This one is $80 and I'd like to know what it's missing from the ones that are in the $200+ range:
 
@valexv This list is work-in-progress, from an earlier version by @SubDriver

It doesn't really include Firmware info, but that breaks down into 4 categories:
Basic: (no DDC brightness/volume control, Limited Range YUV HDMI): JRY--AA1, U49.
Functional: JRY--FA1/SA1, T18/19.
Functional + IR remote control: R9A18, R1811 with V04 firmware (older stock at slightly lower price).
Advanced with additional information + IR remote control: R1811 HDMI 2.0, R1811 HDMI 2.1 both with Realtek (blue) firmware.

___________Video Inputs
(Resolution/Hz/bit depth)
____________________
Controller
Board
Input VoltageHDMI Ports
(Protocol)
DisplayPorts
(Protocol)
USB C
(PD Watts)
Audio AmpsDriver ChipChip
Maker
USB-A / B Ports (Version)
R1811 V.4
HDMI 2.1
24 Vdc2 (2.1) (5K/60/10)2 (1.4) (5K/60/10)Y (65W)(5K/60/10)10 W
4/8Ω
RTD2718QRealTek2 / 0
(2.0)
R1811 V.4
HDMI 2.0
24 Vdc2 (2.0) (4K/60/8)2 (1.4) (5K/60/10)Y (65W) (5K/60/10)10 W
4/8Ω
RTD2718QRealTek2 / 0
(2.0)
R9A18 V1
(Note 4)
12 Vdc2 (2.0) (4K/60/8)2 (1.2) (5K/60/8-10)None10 W
4/8Ω
RTD2718QRealTekNone
R9A18 V1.1
(Note 4)
12 Vdc2 (2.0) (4K/60/8)2 (1.4?) (5K/60/8-10)None10 W
4/8Ω
RTD2718QRealTekNone
JRY-W9CUHD-AA112/24 Vdc1 (2.0) (5K/30/8)1 (1.4)
(5K/60/8)
Y (65W)
(5K/60/8)
2 W
MT98**?MediaTek2 / 1
(2.0)
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA112/24 Vdc2 (2.1) (5K/60/10)2 (1.4) (5K/60/10)None3 W
MT9801VMediaTekNone
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA124 Vdc2 (2.1) (5K/60/10)1 (1.4) (5K/60/10)Y (90W) (5K/60/10)3 W
MT9801VMediaTek2 / 1
(3.0)
Haijing T1812/24 Vdc2 (2.0) (4K/60/8)1 (1.4) (5K/60/10)Y (65W) (5K/60/10)5 W
RTD2718QRealTek2 / 1
Haijing T1912/24 Vdc2 (2.1) (5K/60/10)2 (1.4) (5K/60/10)None5 W
RTD2718QDRealTekNone
U4912/24 Vdc3 (2.0) (4K/60/8)1 (1.4)
(5K/60/8)
Y (65W)
(5K/60/8)
8 W
MT9***?MediaTek1 (2.0)

General Notes:

1. Power delivery via USB C requires 24 Vdc power supply

2. Host computer’s GPU must support 5K resolution to obtain 5K on the display (every Apple silicon Mac is capable of driving at least one 5K display). 2018 and earlier Macs with DP 1.2 only support 4K (1080p HiDPI), except R9A18 (Note 4).

3. To achieve 10 bit color depth on iMac displays (LM270QQ1) or LG UltraFine displays (LM270QQ2) requires a GPU and video cables that support Display Stream Compression (DSC). (All Apple silicon Macs support DSC) (search for “8K cable” for additional cable info)

4. 5K/10 bit color depth via DisplayPort requires using two DP cables (see post #1409 for one potential solution). Single DP cable gives 8 bit Limited Range YUV color depth.

5. A 30 Hz refresh rate is generally not recommended due to choppiness of items in motion on the display (e.g., viewing videos)

6. HDMI 2.0 can only achieve 60 Hz refresh rate at 5K resolution using compression technology (e.g., Display Stream Compression, or DSC) and requires proper cables. The JRY--AA1 board appears to be limited to 30 Hz for 5K resolution over HDMI 2.0

7. All the boards will support higher refresh rates at lower resolutions (i.e., 4K or less). The table is a comparison of board performance at 5K resolution only.

8. The details in the table reflect performance/capabilities when using MacOS. Windows or other operating systems may yield different results.
 
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. Is there any additional functionality I would get out of the IR remote if the board supports DDC brightness control? I'm looking at either the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 or the Haijing T18 since it seems like the simplest option and can do 5K 10-bit with only one DP cable.
 
I see. Do you know for sure if both of those boards have DDC control? I looked at their product descriptions on aliexpress and neither of them mention it, so I don't know if that's just an oversight or what.
 
@valexv Both the T18 and the JRY—SA1 have been reported as responding to basic DDC commands for adjusting brightness and volume from Monitor Control.
Particularly using DP or USB-C inputs.

But both have had ‘quirky’ behaviours reported.
Quite possibly because of user errors…
 
@valexv
Problems with HDMI brightness control (T18).
Problems with Volume but not Brightness (JRY--SA1).
Problems with Brightness and Contrast and Backlight level all being adjusted at the same time (R1811).

I guess that users who don't know how to configure DDC with BetterDisplay, and how that interacts with the OSD or MacOS Display Settings get confused. But there might be some quirks... 😀

So I think that the basic keyboard Brightness and Volume* are operational in all boards except the JRY--AA1 and R9A18 V1 with early 01/02 firmware, but in the others I doubt that all BD's in-depth DDC configuration settings are enabled, even on a R1811.
*Edit: It seems the JRY--SA1/FA1 need to use eQMac to adjust the audio volume.
 
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I’ll go with the SA1 board then, since I don’t plan to use the internal speakers anyway so volume control isn’t important for me.
 
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Latest update to my project. I was able to insert the vent in the imac again using a different powerplug for the board. So the imac is complete, but the display is disconnected from the imac and connected to the
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board

Before the conversion the imac was very good usable using oclp with the latest system, but now the imac is hardly usable with an external display. I ask myself if the option Disable Firmware Throttling on the oclp menue is working correctly.
 
@Guenter "...the imac is hardly usable with an external display."

Here is a explanation of the problem, in terms of running Linux on a headless iMac:

"Fix thermal throttling: When the MSR (Model-Specific Register) doesn't detect a connected screen, it sets the CPU to run at 800mhz.
It does that by setting BD-PROCHOT to throttle for heat.
So, we need to fix that flag in the MSR.
This is accomplished by installing msr-tools (sudo apt install msr-tools), and then running a script to change the hex-based flag to disable the throttling.
I used the script here: https://github.com/yyearth/turnoff-BD-PROCHOT/blob/master/bdprochot_off.sh "


Then follows an analysis of running the necessary code:

"I ask myself if the option Disable Firmware Throttling on the oclp menue is working correctly."
Possibly OCLP is not trying to correct the MSR at such a fundamental level?
 
Paul
I thought oclp should do this because imac without internal display is listed there, but i will try your approch.
Thanks again.
 
anyone have the raw IR codes?
Not 100% sure what your question means. In case you are asking for suitable IR photoreceivers, it may help to know what part is being used in my build as a new IR receiver was installed just above the display panel where the webcam normally sits in the iMac (rather than using the standard control strip that came with the converter board).

Part used
Tru Components IR receiver OS-1638 (940 nm, 38 kHz, 2.7...5.5 V, supports NEC code and RC5 code)

Build description
Another iMac turned into a 5K Monitor using the R9A18 board

Background information
Data Formats for IR Remote Control (explains RC 5 code and NEC code)
 
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I have a M2 Studio Ultra.

And late 2015 iMac.

Just read through ********s of posts.

Would like to clarify what I need

R1811 BOARD - AND THE LEADS THAT COME WITH IT

USB-C TO DISPLAY PORT 8K CABLE

24 VDC POWER SUPPLY

I dont need the speakers or camera to work

Just the screen

Cheers
 
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@steveebeatz Yes that list is the basics. You will need a few other hardware bits and pieces to mount your R1811 and it’s Control Strip and power supply in a tidy manner. 😉
 
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The problem with static electricity.
I have installed the SA1 board and am experiencing a problem with static electricity. Due to the climate and heating, I walk at home in warm clothes, which electrifies. When I was fixing the iMac screen there was often static discharge on the iMac and everything worked fine. After remodeling iMac into a display with SA1 control board, when lightly touching the monitor and static discharge - the board goes to sleep/reboot. This interferes with operation. Maybe someone has encountered something similar? How did you solve the problem?

p.s. of course the board is well grounded, but it does not help.
p.s.2 yes, I checked the grounding with the contact to the body and the ground from the other socket.
 
But.. But.. Apple, Hdmi plug in macOS josemite is function properly... upwards no, asking myself what could it be. Apple has not adopted the RGB/VESA/Display Port route could be one reason other could be a not so well target coded macOS version, still waiting to see how it plays in the future IMO. ;)
 
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@alexey-xxx The are lots of reports about static electricity turning a monitor off briefly.
In this video an oscilloscope is used to show an air-born spike.
In his comments he says he cured the problem with a different DP cable, instead of HDMI.


The other thing that might help is having a grounding point or earthed pad where you can get rid of static before touching anything near the monitor.
 
@alexey-xxx The are lots of reports about static electricity turning a monitor off briefly.
In this video an oscilloscope is used to show an air-born spike.
In his comments he says he cured the problem with a different DP cable, instead of HDMI.


The other thing that might help is having a grounding point or earthed pad where you can get rid of static before touching anything near the monitor.
Getting rid of static these way: https://esahubble.org/wordbank/red-giant/ no cables included. :rolleyes:
 
Many thanks to @PaulD-UK and all the others for explaining the 5K monitor conversion process! I've mostly succeeded in converting an A1419 iMac to a nice 5K monitor, using an SA-1 board and audio crossovers from StoneTaskin. It's connected to an M2 Macbook Air using USB-C. Video quality was great out of the box. The board gets pretty hot, and even crackled at one point (ouch), but it seems to work. I'm still planning to connect the iMac on/off button, and the power cable connector.

My main remaining issue is that I can use the Mac keyboard volume buttons to mute and unmute audio, and to show the pretty on-screen display showing higher or lower volume, but *not* to actually increase or decrease the volume coming out of the iMac/5K display. Changing volume settings within the Music app does change volume. I've played with the DCC settings through both MonitorControl and BetterDisplay, aiming to force software volume control, but nothing seems to work. I would be grateful for any further tips.
 
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