@alxdrsyrbu Electrically it’s the same - if you have good soldering skills…
@ItsAShaunParty
"I’d like to repurpose the iMac’s original power button and plug..."
To use the iMac's original power button, you wire the cable from the button in parallel to the Control Strip power-on switch K1, pins 3 and 4 (from L) Gnd and Power on the ribbon cable. The plug isn't really usable, as the wire needs to be extended, and soldering is easier.
View attachment 2488406
"I'd love to use a remote control..."
Yes, StoneTaskin sell the remote control that works with the R1811.
This pic shows the same remote control that works with the R1811, R9A18 and the R9513 V5 board for 4K 21.5" iMacs.
The IR receiver is on the Control Strip next to the ribbon cable, so this needs to be able to receive the signal from the remote.
On my conversion I find it works fine inside the back of the case, so the Strip can be hidden away.
I put a dark plastic window that passes the IR signals through to the inside.
View attachment 2488398
Apple fits iMacs with multiple internal microphones which are mixed through a Digital Signal Processor to get good noise reduction and clear output.
This is more or less impossible to recreate in a DIY build, though people have added a single microphone, like @Aiwi did in his blog.
Generally the results are mixed. Every YouTuber uses an external close range microphone, because that is the only way to get good sound...
An iPhone using Continuity Camera for a webcam also does sound with Apple's magic touch. 🫨
______ | _____ | Video Inputs (Resolution/Hz/bit depth) | ____ | _____ | ____ | _______ |
Controller Board | Input Voltage | HDMI Ports (Protocol) | DisplayPorts (Protocol) | USB C (PD Watts) | Audio Amps | Driver Chip | Chip Maker | USB-A / B Ports (Version) |
R1811 V.4 HDMI 2.1 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W)(5K/60/10) | 10 W 4/8Ω | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 0 (2.0) |
R1811 V.4 HDMI 2.0 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W) (5K/60/10) | 10 W 4/8Ω | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 0 (2.0) |
R9A18 V1 (Note 4) | 12 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.2) (5K/60/8-10) | None | 10 W 4/8Ω | RTD2718Q | RealTek | None |
R9A18 V1.1 (Note 4) | 12 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.4?) (5K/60/8-10) | None | 10 W 4/8Ω | RTD2718Q | RealTek | None |
JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 | 12/24 Vdc | 1 (2.0) (5K/30/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/8) | Y (65W) (5K/60/8) | 2 W 4Ω | MT98**? | MediaTek | 2 / 1 (2.0) |
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | None | 3 W 4Ω | MT9801V | MediaTek | None |
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (90W) (5K/60/10) | 3 W 4Ω | MT9801V | MediaTek | 2 / 1 (3.0) |
Haijing T18 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W) (5K/60/10) | 5 W 4Ω | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 1 |
Haijing T19 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | None | 5 W 4Ω | RTD2718QD | RealTek | None |
U49 | 12/24 Vdc | 3 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/8) | Y (65W) (5K/60/8) | 8 W 4Ω | MT9***? | MediaTek | 1 (2.0) |
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board |
Not 100% sure what your question means. In case you are asking for suitable IR photoreceivers, it may help to know what part is being used in my build as a new IR receiver was installed just above the display panel where the webcam normally sits in the iMac (rather than using the standard control strip that came with the converter board).anyone have the raw IR codes?
I thought you have the "Mac Oct8gon"?I have a M2 Studio Ultra.
And late 2015 iMac.
Just read through ********s of posts.
Would like to clarify what I need
I see you understood the question (that I failed to see) 👍@steveebeatz Yes that list is the basics. You will need a few other hardware bits and pieces to mount your R1811 and it’s Control Strip and power supply in a tidy manner. 😉
Getting rid of static these way: https://esahubble.org/wordbank/red-giant/ no cables included.@alexey-xxx The are lots of reports about static electricity turning a monitor off briefly.
In this video an oscilloscope is used to show an air-born spike.
In his comments he says he cured the problem with a different DP cable, instead of HDMI.
The other thing that might help is having a grounding point or earthed pad where you can get rid of static before touching anything near the monitor.