If you want to play Windows games, I recommend a BootCamp-Installation (EFI-Installation on a separate SSD/HDD, not using Boot Camp Partitioner but let Windows Installer format the disk).
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Mac Pro with Westmere x5690 (3.46GHz)
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If you want to play Windows games, I recommend a BootCamp-Installation (EFI-Installation on a separate SSD/HDD, not using Boot Camp Partitioner but let Windows Installer format the disk).
It's possible to play game in Parallel.
However, don't expect it can have the same performance as native Windows.
For me, the best way to do it is like Synchro3 said, install in on a separate HDD. So that you can run parallel or boot into native Windows as required.
However, don't expect it can have the same performance as native Windows.
For me, the best way to do it is like Synchro3 said, install in on a separate HDD. So that you can run parallel or boot into native Windows as required.
The temp and fan speed is similar to my old CPU, but the conversion
speed in Handbreak is 80% higher
Just did the same update to my MacPro 2009. Geekbench went up almost 3 times yet Handbrake stays at 500%. Anything to do? Some settings I ignored?
Did a quick test this morning. If I compress a file from a HD Prores Quicktime, indeed, Handbrake hits more than a 1000%. Now if the file is HD but DNxHD (Avid codec), then it plateaus around 500%.
Interesting.
Bootcamp games in Parallels run like a proper dog compared to the real thing. Had a similar issue crop up with a client with a RAID0 setup so I installed a 250Gb 840 EVO SSD in sled 2 in an NWT 3.5 bracket and patched the MBR to enable Intel SATA AHCI for bootcamp post Win 7 installation as the normal ATA mode-133 is so slow compared to SATA2 and trim is enabled too. The instructions to mod for AHCI are here on this forum, and the 4,1 supports up to the Intel RST driver 11.7.4.1001. He was pretty happy with the outcome.
I know people hate W8.1, and I do too, but it is about 10 million times easier to simply install W8.1 in EFI mode which also gets you AHCI, than it is to try to get AHCI working on the MP in W7. The boot times are also insanely fast in comparison. And if you're talking about gaming, then with W7 you can't use DirectX 11.1 or newer.
I have (but don't really use) W8.0 +updates to 8.1 in a VM. If I decide to install on its own HD, do I need the 8.1 installer, or will the 8.0 installer suffice?
I don't know; I've never had 8.0. I think there's an easy way to check though.
Stick your 8.0 install DVD into the drive and hold OPTION/ALT until you see the boot options. If one of them is "EFI Boot", then you should be good to go. You can verify after installation by checking disk manager for a small EFI partition and checking device manager to see if the drive controllers are using AHCI instead of ATA.
I find the MP systems quite easy to patch for 7 having done so many, plus I've got Winclone Pro for fast restores of the images too. I have plenty of gamer clients I know and I can count the number on one hand that run 8.x, all still on 7. I still can't bring myself to be even fond of 8.x; its a pup, just like Vista and 10.0-2 were and my sole system that ran 8 from the factory has been running Win 10 TP since soon after release.
And that's going on every Mac and PC in the household soon after release bar the 7 Media center modded Vaio XL3 HTPC, though I won't be doing the beast first. My son's gaming rig 7 install is first, cattle trucked from OC and Fraps captures it needs flattening from scratch!
My 12 core will be way down the queue - probably last. With the Apple 1Tb nMP second gen blade I don't really know what slow means anyway ;-)
If you have a Windows 8.0 License, which is actually a Windows 8.1 license, you can download a little Microsoft app, which can download an ISO image of Windows 8.1 'Core' or Windows 8.1 'Pro' installer. Link: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media
Another question: I have Windows 8.1 also installed and activated in a VM. Can I activate it a second time when I install it on an SSD?
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Okay, thanks for the link, I'll look into that.
You should be able to activate it again since it's the same machine, but you may have to call MS activation and explain. I had to do this once, but on other occasions I only had to tick a check box during the activation that certified I'm not using this license on another machine. You can get it done one way or the other.
I upgraded my 4,1 to x5690 with Gelid Supreme thermal paste.
In the PC world Gelid is superior to Arctic Silver. Coollabratory is the best overall thermal paste but you can't use it with aluminium heatsinks as found in cMP (if any of the compound touches the aluminium it will cause erosion)
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,review-32804.html
In the PC world Gelid is superior to Arctic Silver. Coollabratory is the best overall thermal paste but you can't use it with aluminium heatsinks as found in cMP (if any of the compound touches the aluminium it will cause erosion)
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,review-32804.html
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Have just done this upgrade too! Dropped a pair of X5680 cpu's into my 2009 Mac Pro with 48GB of 1333 ram (3x 16GB), a GTX770 video card and a Crucial MX100 512GB SSD drive. All running very smoothly so far. I left the heat spreaders on the cpus and just tightened the heat sinks so they were "finger-tip tight" (didn't count turns). Have been running for a few weeks with no probs. Will post some benchmarks as I get to them.
Hi!
what about the Kit? I'm very interested, and I ask you:
1- with this kit you can tighten the screws without fear of crushing the cpu against the socket?
2- solve also the problem of fan's supply? You can not break the plastic of the power, it's true?
Do you know if there something similar in europe to have minus expedition costs?
thanks a lot
Yes, you can tighten without being afraid of ruining the socket, this is the same height as the Apple CPUs, so there are no issues with over-tightening (unless you tighten so much as that you break the screw or similar, but that would be impressive).
Also correct, you do not need to break/cut the connector, the heatsink will fit right back down as it's supposed to without any modifications.
Check the video of the install
I'm not sure of anyone in Europe who sells a similar kit. Also, be aware that in addition to the shipping costs, you'll also have to pay customs fees.
Great and simple upgrade video with all info needed! Keeping this bookmarked for my possible future upgrade! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
The video is not good. Too rushed.
1. After removing the old thermal paste use a surface purifier.
2. Gelid makes the best thermal paste for these Macs.
3. Do not smear thermal paste with credit card. This creates potential for air bubbles and isn't ideal.
4. Use the pea method for CPU with an IHS. Use the line method for CPU without an IHS.
5. Tighten the screws minimally. Just enough for the heat sinks to become attached. Boot up. OSX will let you know if the screws need to be tightened a little more by showing you that either the CPUs or memory are not all visible to the system yet. In that case shutdown and give just a little more tightening. It doesn't take much.
This doesn't makes the videos easier to watch, explain a bit more (pea/line ect), please.
Cheers