Thanks! The watermarking is probably a good idea in general, given the piratical nature of the internet. I need to find a way to do it from within PS. Right now, if I want a watermark, I save a final image (usually a tif file) and then resize and mark it in a different program. It's cumbersome, so I haven't been doing it for months.I see you started ©watermarking your images - probably a good idea considering they would sell for quite a bit. I think I told you this before, but if you ever decided to go professional I have no doubts about your success... Incredible work, as always.
I like this one a lot. Where in Canada did you find these. (I'm Canadian, and know about the Metis)7.8.07 - Metis sur Mer, Canada
shamus, m@lew, jht Nice!
Thanks! The watermarking is probably a good idea in general, given the piratical nature of the internet. I need to find a way to do it from within PS. Right now, if I want a watermark, I save a final image (usually a tif file) and then resize and mark it in a different program. It's cumbersome, so I haven't been doing it for months.
I like this one a lot. Where in Canada did you find these. (I'm Canadian, and know about the Metis)
VictorM, very jealous. Been trying to shoot bees with very little luck. What settings are you using? Having a bit of difficulty getting used to this lens....
Do you have a link to that program?Right now, if I want a watermark, I save a final image (usually a tif file) and then resize and mark it in a different program.
Yeah, I know what you mean, I'm going through a learning curve with this lens (105VR). I keep the VR turned on all the time, although I've read that the benefit diminishes as you approach higher magnification (I should try it OFF and see if it improves the photos or not). I use continous-mode AF, although it can be sketchy at these magnifications (on my D70s anyway), I still find it useful 80% of the time, once I lock onto the object (bee) I can usually hold AF even as it moves around. I've also decoupled the auto-focus and shutter release buttons because I can concentrate better (the decoupling is something I like to do anyway, not just a macro thing).
What's helping more than anything is using flash, because it lets me keep larger DOF (so I can get more than just the eyes in focus, although sometimes that's cool too) and still lets me use a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the moving bees (or whatever). I'm not using a tripod, cuz it just doesn't work for me (moving around too much), although i can certainly see the attractiveness of a tripod sometimes.
This is generally my starting point: camera on full manual, F20, 1/250sec shutter, with flash. I'm using the R1C1 flash kit, and I've normally got it set to 0EV and 4:1 ratio to get some shadows/sense of depth. Of course you can use other flash units, I know freebooter is, and he gets great stuff too. This tends to be a good starting point for me on a sunny day. Naturally I adjust as lighting changes (but I try not to drop the shutter to slow if it's a moving object because it just doesn't come out sharp).
Thank you so much. I like this lens, but I have found it soo difficult to get decent macro shots out of it. Don't suppose it helps, I'm still trying to get to grips with using a dSLR, as well.
Here's another of my attempts
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Taken last summer.
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I know that must be possible, I just haven't gotten around to learning how to do some of the steps.Couldnt you create an action-script in photoshop where you insert your logo as either a text or gif layer and then automatically lower transparency? Just a thought...
Do you have a link to that program?
How is it that you are able to make the majority of your bokeh black, thus highlighting the subject of the image?
Thanks freebooter, that helps a lot. I will probably upgrade as well once I am consistently pleased with the shots I am taking and then processing into a final product.The program is Downsize and can be found on versiontracker.com or macupdate.com I think. It works well, and can make frames, too.
As to the black background, it's not hard to do. You need a flash; I just use the pop-up, built-in flash since it's powerful enough for close ups most of the time. I'm experimenting with a few homemade diffusers made from plastic bottles, tinfoil and duct tape that channel the light out over the subject and then diffuse it downwards. If I want a black background I choose a small aperture and fast shutter speed (I can go as high as 1/500 on manual), and I try not to illuminate the background with the diffuser. It also helps to line things up so that the background is far away. Sometimes I want a more natural background, so I might light up more of the area by holding the diffuser differently, choosing a slower shutter speed, larger aperture or a higher iso. Eventually I will get a proper flash set up, once I decide on a camera system. (The D40 is just temporary until this year's 'semi-pro' models come out. I have my weather eye on Nikon, Canon and Olympus.)