what is the correct AWG size for posi tap use ?
because you have 3 versions :
10,12, GA, AWG
14,16, GA, AWG,
20-22, GA, AWG
because you have 3 versions :
10,12, GA, AWG
14,16, GA, AWG,
20-22, GA, AWG
what is the correct AWG size for posi tap use ?
because you have 3 versions :
10,12, GA, AWG
14,16, GA, AWG,
20-22, GA, AWG
Thank you to all the people that contributed to the thread. I took the plunge and modified my Mac Pro 5,1.
Looks very nice and clean.
I'm doing this right now, as well. I ordered the moddiy cable, but it will take forever to get here. I have an 8-pin to dual 8 pin (6 + 2) cable that came with my corsair powersupply that's in another machine. I want to just cut the end off of this thing and use it. Has anybody used a different cable?I'm finally attempting this mod - but was hoping to get all of my parts quickly via Amazon. Instead of waiting for the custom MOD DIY Open-End to Dual 8 Pin (6+2) PCI-E Sleeved Cable, could I order something like this:
and then just snip the ends off myself? Is there a better option on Amazon Prime that anyone can recommend?
Thanks in advance!
I built an internally powered and installed Dual Vega F.E. cMP System last April by modding the PSU cabling with the necessary taps ( for 4 x 8 pin PCIe booster ) . I was inspired by the Pixlas method and I'm certain I beat Apple to it . You don't need to do any rework on the inside of the PSU . You'd be amazed at how much juice one of these power supplies are capable of actually providing . Got bored with it and it's now sitting in a corner of my shop . I'm spending all my time working with PC and Mac Cascade Lake / Skylake Xeon Systems lately .
Here's a look if you like eye candy :
View attachment 884745
View attachment 884748
It's interesting to see that my single Radeon VII can beat 2x Vega FE 😁
View attachment 884760
Anyone know if I can get all the parts need off of Amazon?
I built an internally powered and installed Dual Vega F.E. cMP System last April by modding the PSU cabling with the necessary taps ( for 4 x 8 pin PCIe booster ) . I was inspired by the Pixlas method and I'm certain I beat Apple to it . You don't need to do any rework on the inside of the PSU . You'd be amazed at how much juice one of these power supplies are capable of actually providing . Got bored with it and it's now sitting in a corner of my shop . I'm spending all my time working with PC and Mac Cascade Lake / Skylake Xeon Systems lately .
Here's a look if you like eye candy :
I actually ordered two of these and installed them yesterday https://www.amazon.com/Express-Adap...NMP29SSTCH8&psc=1&refRID=CFH33JE6YNMP29SSTCH8@Mihatsu It looks like @Snow Tiger used four of these: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Bit...8-Pin-PCIE-to-Open-End-Split-Power-Cable.html, and cut off the additional 8 pin from each.
I'm not sure why that would be necessary/why they didn't just use two normal pcie 8 pin -> 2x 8pin for this application, or just two of the mining cables. Any insight, Snow Tiger?
Based on what I know this would lead to the same outcome, and would use fewer taps; or it could be something about the way these cables are pinned that chose this path for them.
Currently researching this for myself as well. I'm at the point where I'm deciding between buying cables or making my own.
@Mihatsu It looks like @Snow Tiger used four of these: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Bit...8-Pin-PCIE-to-Open-End-Split-Power-Cable.html, and cut off the additional 8 pin from each.
I'm not sure why that would be necessary/why they didn't just use two normal pcie 8 pin -> 2x 8pin for this application, or just two of the mining cables. Any insight, Snow Tiger?
Based on what I know this would lead to the same outcome, and would use fewer taps; or it could be something about the way these cables are pinned that chose this path for them.
Currently researching this for myself as well. I'm at the point where I'm deciding between buying cables or making my own.
Am I correct in thinking that these splices just go onto the PSU cable and they’ll cut through the insulation on there own or did you make an incision with a blade on the insulation first? Parts of me thinks that it’s only necessary to put the connectors straight on as if I made an incision there is a risk of actually cutting into the wire as the splice goes on...?
With my 3M GENUINE SCOTCHLOK 562 YELLOW taps I had to use a Channellock 348 Linesman Plier to secure them properly . Locking the taps just with hands is not possible . No incision by knife is necessary .
Channellock 348 8-1/2-Inch Linesman Plier
Channel lock Inc 8-1/2" Drop Forged Steel Hand-Honed Linesman Pliers are long lasting and are constructed with a heavy duty design. Features laser heat treated cutters and Western electric spec B8 comfort grips providing convenient, hassle-free use.www.amazon.com
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, sorry I have a pair of Mole Grips Pliers which I have adjusted to the correct tension in order to avoid crushing the splice so it gets a good grip and also able to push down the metal tab in the splice.
I just wasn’t sure whether I had to make an incision in the cable with a knife before putting on the splice.
The splices I used are these:
[automerge]1584205290[/automerge]878211D MULTICOMP PRO, Wire Splice, Crimp, 18 AWG, 14 AWG, Wire Tap Splice | Farnell® UK
Buy 878211D - MULTICOMP PRO - Wire Splice, Crimp, 18 AWG, 14 AWG, Wire Tap Splice. Farnell® UK offers fast quotes, same day dispatch, fast delivery, wide inventory, datasheets & technical support.uk.farnell.com
They are the same splices that Andree linked to at the beginning of this thread. They are 10-12AWG in one hole and 14-18AWG on the other hole so I guess they can do both jobs at once. I was just querying the fact that Jay at House Of Moth used slightly different splices but made a cut first.
Even with mole grips, it was hard to push the cable down initially, presumably due to the thickness of the PSU wire insulation, but once the ‘cut’ got started it just went down without any issue but yes it needed some force to go on. The splice actually cuts through the wire in two separate places about 5mm apart presumably for a more solid connection.