Resolved Power to garage is dead what to do?

[hallux]

no metal conduit at all just the standard electrical wiring burried 6 inches down.

Who wired that? Any electrician worth his certificate wouldn't bury a bare Romex cable only 6" down (or bare Romex PERIOD). Also, the whole thing would have had to pass a code inspection in most locales before it was energized the first time.

Just from a common-sense thought process. There should be a circuit box in the garage, fed from the power feed prior to the breakers/fuses in the main panel (or however a remote panel is supposed to be run). I'd have the compressor on its own circuit, the lights on another and the outlets on at least one more. There are SOO many better ways to have that garage set up compared to how it was working before the current failure, and those ways are probably much closer to (if not actually) the way it's SUPPOSED to be by code.

 

[A.Goldberg]

1. I'm not being a dick, I'm speaking assertively. I'm encouraging you to analyze this situation a little more thoroughly.
2. Then clearly you didn't look too hard. It's a standard practice. Again, good luck finding a mechanic that will do a single brake pad. You can do single caliper, but pads definitely and rotors should are done in pairs. I've never seen them sell 1 set of brake pads. What do you think happens when one brake stops harder than another?
3. Your best solution would have been to run outdoor extension cords suitable for your appliances. Not re-wire things.

You may have not said it's a good idea but then again words don't really matter, action does.

 

[A.Goldberg]

1. there is no need to be a dick.
2. How so? Seriously. What difference would it make? I cannot find a single thing online stating anything about this.
3. When did I say this was a good idea? This is a bad Idea and is tempting fate, and if it wasn't for the necessity of powering the chest freezer a cord would not of even been run.
4. the insurance policy on my grandpa's house is different than ours. Because he lives in his if he had a fire or the house was a total loss he would get over 4x what would be for this house. Stuff IN his house is covered. HOWEVER, being that he doesn't LIVE in our house his policy on ours ONLY covers the dwelling + Extension. It covers nothing but the structure.


no metal conduit at all just the standard electrical wiring burried 6 inches down.

Oh PS, while its normal not to encase electrical wire underground, isn't it 24" without A conduit? Something less if their is? If power was 6" below the surface, I'm pretty sure there would be a lot more electrocutions with people digging around.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Who wired that? Any electrician worth his certificate wouldn't bury a bare Romex cable only 6" down (or bare Romex PERIOD). Also, the whole thing would have had to pass a code inspection in most locales before it was energized the first time.

Just from a common-sense thought process. There should be a circuit box in the garage, fed from the power feed prior to the breakers/fuses in the main panel (or however a remote panel is supposed to be run). I'd have the compressor on its own circuit, the lights on another and the outlets on at least one more. There are SOO many better ways to have that garage set up compared to how it was working before the current failure, and those ways are probably much closer to (if not actually) the way it's SUPPOSED to be by code.

You have to remember, The house was up to code (assuming it was a electrition that wired the garage) in 1994. in 2015 laws not a single house in my neighborhood would be up to code.

1. I'm not being a dick, I'm speaking assertively. I'm encouraging you to analyze this situation a little more thoroughly.
2. Then clearly you didn't look too hard. It's a standard practice. Again, good luck finding a mechanic that will do a single brake pad. You can do single caliper, but pads definitely and rotors should are done in pairs. I've never seen them sell 1 set of brake pads. What do you think happens when one brake stops harder than another?
3. Your best solution would have been to run outdoor extension cords suitable for your appliances. Not re-wire things.

You may have not said it's a good idea but then again words don't really matter, action does.

I didn't "Re-wire" anything, I ran some extension cords.

Oh PS, while its normal not to encase electrical wire underground, isn't it 24" without A conduit? Something less if their is? If power was 6" below the surface, I'm pretty sure there would be a lot more electrocutions with people digging around.

Not in this case. We installed some railings on the steps leading down to the garage for my disabled mother. As my grandpa was digging the holes for the railing posts he struck the power line to the garage with the shovel. It shocked him and shot sparks. Power to the garage was sill there so we went and got some electrical tape and taped up the wire. Most likely the area he nicked with the shovel several years ago is the area of problem now hence why I said i'd dig up the wire to take a look. Mostly likely that entire section of wire needs to be replaced.

 

[hallux]

You have to remember, The house was up to code (assuming it was a electrition that wired the garage) in 1994. in 2015 laws not a single house in my neighborhood would be up to code.

I'll just leave this here: http://www.rochestermn.gov/departments/building-safety/construction-residential

I didn't "Re-wire" anything, I ran some extension cords.

Did you disconnect the original wiring in the garage to hook it to the cords? You re-wired it.

Not in this case. We installed some railings on the steps leading down to the garage for my disabled mother. As my grandpa was digging the holes for the railing posts he struck the power line to the garage with the shovel. It shocked him and shot sparks. Power to the garage was sill there so we went and got some electrical tape and taped up the wire. Most likely the area he nicked with the shovel several years ago is the area of problem now hence why I said i'd dig up the wire to take a look. Mostly likely that entire section of wire needs to be replaced.

I'm not sure what to say to this. That is NOT what electrical tape is for. That wire should have been replaced at the time of the incident.

By the way, when it gets fixed, there may be a permit needed for the work and any work done needs to meet CURRENT code. The wire will likely need to be buried deeper, put inside conduit and probably a few other provisions.

 

[A.Goldberg]

You have to remember, The house was up to code (assuming it was a electrition that wired the garage) in 1994. in 2015 laws not a single house in my neighborhood would be up to code.

I didn't "Re-wire" anything, I ran some extension cords.
Not in this case. We installed some railings on the steps leading down to the garage for my disabled mother. As my grandpa was digging the holes for the railing posts he struck the power line to the garage with the shovel. It shocked him and shot sparks. Power to the garage was sill there so we went and got some electrical tape and taped up the wire. Most likely the area he nicked with the shovel several years ago is the area of problem now hence why I said i'd dig up the wire to take a look. Mostly likely that entire section of wire needs to be replaced.

Basically what everything the previous user said. I'd be surprised in 1994 if 6" was acceptable for electrical wiring without a conduit. I can't imagine building codes have changed that substantially in that regard. I thought you said your house was not up to code?

What you have preformed sounds like the definition of "re-wiring". Or did you choose to go with the male to make plug?

Well a shock puts anyone at risk for electrocution. An old man with a bad heart or a small child with a small body is at a higher risk of death. Getting shocked may not kill you, but it can certainly cause long lasting nervous system side effects, not to mention burns and scars... Or even starting a fire.

It sounds like this cutting that wire could easily be the cause of this problem. Checking wire would be a very reasonable place to start. I still think you just have a blown fuse

 

[MatthewLTL]

Basically what everything the previous user said. I'd be surprised in 1994 if 6" was acceptable for electrical wiring without a conduit. I can't imagine building codes have changed that substantially in that regard. I thought you said your house was not up to code?

What you have preformed sounds like the definition of "re-wiring". Or did you choose to go with the male to make plug?

Well a shock puts anyone at risk for electrocution. An old man with a bad heart or a small child with a small body is at a higher risk of death. Getting shocked may not kill you, but it can certainly cause long lasting nervous system side effects, not to mention burns and scars... Or even starting a fire.

It sounds like this cutting that wire could easily be the cause of this problem. Checking wire would be a very reasonable place to start. I still think you just have a blown fuse

I didn't do anything other than run 2 extension cords. Unless you consider adding a power cord to the lights to power them "re-wiring". We already checked the fuses. If we had a blown fuse something inside the house would also be without power. EVERY circuit in the house has power and every spot in the fuse box with a wire tested 115V. yea My house ISN'T up to code for the stardards of 2015. Technically speaking, any house with fuses instead of breakers is considered out-of-code. (Makes me wonder they they still uses fuses in cars rather than mini or micro breakers.) Or why they still use carburators on small engines rather than Fuel Injection. (those are topics wondering off topic though).

 

[laurim]

no metal conduit at all just the standard electrical wiring burried 6 inches down.

OK, now I know you are trolling.

 

[A.Goldberg]

I didn't do anything other than run 2 extension cords. Unless you consider adding a power cord to the lights to power them "re-wiring". We already checked the fuses. If we had a blown fuse something inside the house would also be without power. EVERY circuit in the house has power and every spot in the fuse box with a wire tested 115V. yea My house ISN'T up to code for the stardards of 2015. Technically speaking, any house with fuses instead of breakers is considered out-of-code. (Makes me wonder they they still uses fuses in cars rather than mini or micro breakers.) Or why they still use carburators on small engines rather than Fuel Injection. (those are topics wondering off topic though).

That would be the definition of rewiring.

If it's a blown fuse you should be able to tell just by looking. When you're using the multimeter in the fuse box What two points are you testing?

Cars use fuses because they're much cheaper and take up much less space. They're also more sensitive in some respects, which is a good thing safety wise (but not great in terms of potential maintenance).

Fuel injection is much more complex, substantially more expensive, and in most cases would require an electrical system- which would make them heavier because they would need a battery. Otherwise a mechanical system could be used, but that would add space and weight too. Fuel injection is more reliable and easier to start, but not practical.

 

[MatthewLTL]

That would be the definition of rewiring.

If it's a blown fuse you should be able to tell just by looking. When you're using the multimeter in the fuse box What two points are you testing?

Cars use fuses because they're much cheaper and take up much less space. They're also more sensitive in some respects, which is a good thing safety wise (but not great in terms of potential maintenance).

Fuel injection is much more complex, substantially more expensive, and in most cases would require an electrical system- which would make them heavier because they would need a battery. Otherwise a mechanical system could be used, but that would add space and weight too. Fuel injection is more reliable and easier to start, but not practical.

Tested all "Hot" or black wires from the fuses with the white ground wires on both top and bottom of the fuses wouldn't house fuses be cheaper and take less space too?

 

[Bug-Creator]

EDIT: Why pay someone for something i can do myself?

Maybe because you have by now established beyond any doubt that YOU can't do it yourself.

The only relief here is that you only use half the voltage I handle only daily basis (electrician by trade), but such utter stupidity isn't unheard of around here neither....

 

[samiwas]

Before I begin this response, know that I realize this is probably a sham, and this thread (amongst others referenced throughout, which I haven't read) is most likely just a bogus call for attention.

Why? Because the question is asked "what could be wrong", and whenever someone says what is wrong (everything), it's met with a highly defensive attitude. That being said, it's fun to reply anyway.

wow....... the way you guys react is rather priceless. I have used extension cords all my life, My weed eater is electric, my Drill is electric (not battery) the leaf blower, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, ALL requires extension cords to use them, Even my snow blower has a electric start AND came with a extension cord. For a cord to be a fire hazard it has to get hot, A hot cord means alot of current draw this cord never even gets warm. My mom's electric fry pan takes up more juice than everything in the garage combined.

This is false. An extension cord does not need to "get hot" to be a fire hazard. The type of insulation jacket matters as well. I knew a guy who used speaker wire for extension cords. You know, the clear gold speaker wire. Yes, it is copper cord. Yes, it is capable of carrying voltage. However, the jacket is not suitable for any sort of wear and tear. And if anything cuts into that jacket, it has little chance of surviving. With audio, this is not a big deal. With 120v, that can burn a house down.

The images you have posted in this thread show extremely light-guage cable with thin jackets powering a garage and being run across a yard for extended periods of time. There is nothing safe about this for any extended period of time. Maybe a couple of days in an emergency.

Not backwards. Seen the policy myself. It is renter's insurance that covers the dwelling + extension (garage) in event of natural disaster or fire. non of our stuff is covered. He cannot get homeowners insurance on a property he's not physically living in.

This is so patently false, I don't even know where to begin. Do rental houses not have homeowner's insurance on them from the owner? Of course they do! If someone owns a house, they can insure it. Pretty much no renter's insurance covers the actual property, just belongings within. If this house has "renter's insurance" as the main policy, someone is being lied to.

How would I know? It's what i found while looking up power strip and extension cord saftey codes. powering the garage like I am is no different than having a power strip.

Uhh, wrong. The breaker on a power strip is not designed to the same specifics as an actual breaker.

I don't over work the circuit, The garage runs off one of the 30A circuits for the clothes dryer. When using the clothes dryer I unplug the cord to the garage. the other side of the dryer circuit powers the fusebox the the outside centeral AC unit. When I use the air compressor in the garage i unplug everything and just run the compressor on the extension cord.

So, what you're saying is that you have what looks to be a 14-16 AWG extension cord protected by a 30A breaker.

I didn't do the wiring. It's not wired to the plug for the dryer its wired into the dryer's fuse box.... Again, house came that way. I know enough to unplug the garage before using the dryer because when i used to have m bedroom in the basement having m computer plugged in would blow one of the fuses whenever I ran the dryer. some one thought it was a brilliant idea to wire the outlet to the heating side of the dryer's circuit. Why the AC wasn't wired on it's own indipendent line rather than on the dryer's power side is beyond me. Sure wouldn't think the company that installed It would wire it like that. Just like the company that installed our furnace had to run a ground wire, claiming the furnace wouldn't function without a ground wire. Surely wouldnt think a old metal sewer vent pipe would be an adaquite ground.....

The stuff you are describing was not wired by any company, at least not any company worth anything.

And metal pipes were very, very frequently used as grounds until code changed. It's not allowed any more, but it used to be.

And "I know to unplug this in order to use that" is not any sort of safe electrical practice, especially when all of your talking speaks to under-rated cables being used on higher-amperage breakers.

You have to remember, The house was up to code (assuming it was a electrition that wired the garage) in 1994. in 2015 laws not a single house in my neighborhood would be up to code.

There is nothing about any of the situations you have explained that was "up to code" in 1994. All this crazy 30A breaker stuff powering numerous side-wired boxes all over the place and cable run 6" underground? Not even close to code in 1994.

Not in this case. We installed some railings on the steps leading down to the garage for my disabled mother. As my grandpa was digging the holes for the railing posts he struck the power line to the garage with the shovel. It shocked him and shot sparks. Power to the garage was sill there so we went and got some electrical tape and taped up the wire. Most likely the area he nicked with the shovel several years ago is the area of problem now hence why I said i'd dig up the wire to take a look. Mostly likely that entire section of wire needs to be replaced.

This is where it just gets silly. So, you repaired underground wire with some electrical tape? And now you're actually questioning what could be wrong?

There was a show I watched recently where a guy had a small farm, and had some really sketchy wiring powering a barn. One night, after heavy rain, the entire land around the barn became electrified from the bad wiring and it killed at least one of his animals, a very large animal.

And you seem to be brushing all of this off as "you people just don't understand". Everything you have described is highly unsafe electrical practice. Just because it hasn't burned down yet doesn't mean it's safe. I've known people who used tritaps like the one pictured powering your freezer and lights for many years, until one melted and almost burned the place down. "It hasn't happened yet" is not synonymous with "It's safe".

-----------

So here's my final two cents. I'm pretty sure this whole thread is fake, and this is all just a cry for attention from strangers on the internet by some bored teenager. But, if it isn't, then just do whatever the hell you want. You have deflected every single bit of advice given so far, accepting literally none of it. Everything you have described in this thread is frighteningly dangerous. I would not spend a night in this house. But no matter what someone tells you to do to fix it, you say "no". So, I'm not sure what else you want anyone to say.

The next thread is going to be "My house burned down but insurance won't pay anything...what should I do???"

 

[bunnspecial]

So here's my final two cents. I'm pretty sure this whole thread is fake, and this is all just a cry for attention from strangers on the internet by some bored teenager. But, if it isn't, then just do whatever the hell you want. You have deflected every single bit of advice given so far, accepting literally none of it. Everything you have described in this thread is frighteningly dangerous. I would not spend a night in this house. But no matter what someone tells you to do to fix it, you say "no". So, I'm not sure what else you want anyone to say.

Several of us in this thread have known this poster(MatthewLTL) from the PowerPC Mac forum for a long time.

If we were taking bets on this thread being real or not, I'd bet on it being real...and I'd probably win less money for taking that bet than I did betting on American Pharoah to win the Belmont yesterday(FWIW, my $5 win bet returned $8).

 

[Plymouthbreezer]

There are some things homeowners can do themselves.... Electrical things, aside from maybe installing a basic fixture, should be done by a registered and insured electrician. It's really a simple solution to most problems.

In regard to codes, even though you COULD get away with something (being "grandfathered in"), doesn't mean it's a good idea. Codes are updated for a reason, and whenever possible, one should seek to conform to those codes for safety's sake.

 

[MatthewLTL]

So here's my final two cents. I'm pretty sure this whole thread is fake, and this is all just a cry for attention from strangers on the internet by some bored teenager. But, if it isn't, then just do whatever the hell you want. You have deflected every single bit of advice given so far, accepting literally none of it. Everything you have described in this thread is frighteningly dangerous. I would not spend a night in this house. But no matter what someone tells you to do to fix it, you say "no". So, I'm not sure what else you want anyone to say.

The next thread is going to be "My house burned down but insurance won't pay anything...what should I do???"

The wire used in this extension cord is no thinner than the ACTUAL wire inside of the jackets used for wiring up houses.
Houses have fuses and breakers for a reason TO PREVENT fires. A set of lights rarely turned on, and a garage door opener that has been powered BY an extension cord for over 20 years is no more of a hazard now as it was then. The current of a garage door opened isn't strong enough to pose any sort of threat. The garage will be fixed. It's just NOT possible right now

 

[yg17]

A set of lights rarely turned on, and a garage door opener that has been powered BY an extension cord for over 20 years is no more of a hazard now as it was then.

Just because you haven't had any issues yet doesn't mean it's not a hazard. You are playing with fire, literally.

I don't know why you continue to ask for help and then when people offer their advice you ignore it and tell them why they're wrong and you're right. It seems like this thread is a sad cry for attention.

 

[samiwas]

The wire used in this extension cord is no thinner than the ACTUAL wire inside of the jackets used for wiring up houses.

You did not read what I wrote. I said "the jacket matters". The jacket of your standard Home Depot extension cord is not designed for any sort of wear and tear. That's why an extension cord will work in a wall, but it is illegal to run one through a wall.

Houses have fuses and breakers for a reason TO PREVENT fires.

And a 30A breaker will NOT protect you from a fire on an extension cord. The highest amperage possible on any sort of extension cord is 20A, and that is unusual. Most are a max of 15. Protecting them with a 30A breaker serves no purpose.

A set of lights rarely turned on, and a garage door opener that has been powered BY an extension cord for over 20 years is no more of a hazard now as it was then.

Yes, yes it is.

The current of a garage door opened isn't strong enough to pose any sort of threat.

The current, no. But a broken jacket, maybe chewed on by a squirrel or, I don't know...HIT BY A SHOVEL?

I don't know why you continue to ask for help and then when people offer their advice you ignore it and tell them why they're wrong and you're right. It seems like this thread is a sad cry for attention.

That's it exactly. Guy comes on asking what could be wrong, then vehemently denies any advice or warnings from anyone, even highly experienced electricians.

Matthew...stop asking for advice or help. You clearly do not want it.

And remember everyone...these are the people we allow to carry firearms around!

 

[MatthewLTL]

I don't know why you continue to ask for help and then when people offer their advice you ignore it and tell them why they're wrong and you're right. It seems like this thread is a sad cry for attention.

Where did I say or state that advice was being ignored? Where did I say I was right? I even ADMITTED this is a bad idea But when you have no choice options are limited. I could get buy with out a garage door opener, but going without powering the freezer will result in a HUGE wasted money on all the frozen food inside of it. The freezer NEEDS to be powered, no ifs, ands, or buts about it.

You did not read what I wrote. I said "the jacket matters". The jacket of your standard Home Depot extension cord is not designed for any sort of wear and tear. That's why an extension cord will work in a wall, but it is illegal to run one through a wall.

The current, no. But a broken jacket, maybe chewed on by a squirrel or, I don'tq know...HIT BY A SHOVEL?



That's it exactly. Guy comes on asking what could be wrong, then vehemently denies any advice or warnings from anyone, even highly experienced electricians.

Matthew...stop asking for advice or help. You clearly do not want it.

And remember everyone...these are the people we allow to carry firearms around!

1. When was it stated It would be run THROUGH a wall? (not like it would even be known anyway it would be INSIDE a wall but that's beside the point).
2. Squirrel stew anyone? LOL
3. I never denied ANY advice at all. Nor did i ever say that this was even a GOOD idea.
4. I don't believe in firearms. Just like drinking people don't know how to handle a firearm responsibly.

 

[yg17]

Where did I say or state that advice was being ignored? Where did I say I was right? I even ADMITTED this is a bad idea But when you have no choice options are limited. I could get buy with out a garage door opener, but going without powering the freezer will result in a HUGE wasted money on all the frozen food inside of it. The freezer NEEDS to be powered, no ifs, ands, or buts about it.

Yes, you do have a choice. CALL AN ELECTRICIAN. We've told you this time and time again. You keep ignoring that advice, and making excuses. You can't afford it? Maybe stop buying aftermarket LED lightbulbs and shift knobs for your Daewoo and hire an electrician instead. Yes, electricians are expensive. Welcome to homeownership. It's all about making sacrifices and putting off the purchase of things you want to buy things you need. You know what's more expensive than an electrician? You're house burning down to the ground.

What was the point of posting this thread? You know it's a bad idea. You know it needs professional help. What did you expect us to say? Validate the dangerous jerry-rigging you did? You asked a question, we answered it several times, and you keep finding excuses to ignore our advice. Keep ignoring us and your next thread will be "House burned down to the ground and renters insurance won't cover the structure, what to do?"

 

[samiwas]

Where did I say or state that advice was being ignored? Where did I say I was right? I even ADMITTED this is a bad idea But when you have no choice options are limited. I could get buy with out a garage door opener, but going without powering the freezer will result in a HUGE wasted money on all the frozen food inside of it. The freezer NEEDS to be powered, no ifs, ands, or buts about it.

Yes, your freezer needs to be powered. That is not one of the many, many atrocities you have detailed throughout this thread. If you simply ran a heavy-guage extension cord out to power the freezer until you could get an electrician in to fix things, no one would have said much.

But you went on and on and on and on about half of your kitchen running off of a single power strip, 30A fuses replacing 20A fuses in your panel because the 20s kept blowing, pictures of all sorts of very unsafe wiring, your descriptions of how you need to unplug the air conditioner to use the garage, and if I'm not mistaken, the garage is run off a wall plug on a 30A fuse which runs to an underground, unprotected cable, to another box in the garage. All scary, scary stuff.

1. When was it stated It would be run THROUGH a wall? (not like it would even be known anyway it would be INSIDE a wall but that's beside the point).

It wasn't. I was highlighting how just because something works, doesn't necessarily mean it's right, legal, or safe.

3. I never denied ANY advice at all. Nor did i ever say that this was even a GOOD idea.

And like i said, a temporary extension cord to keep the freezer running is one thing. An entire house filled with power strips to tritaps with extension cords going everywhere, all on over-rated fuses, is simply a disaster.

4. I don't believe in firearms. Just like drinking people don't know how to handle a firearm responsibly.

Good. I'm not against people having them, but the thought of you having one would make me want to move to another country.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Yes, your freezer needs to be powered. That is not one of the many, many atrocities you have detailed throughout this thread. If you simply ran a heavy-guage extension cord out to power the freezer until you could get an electrician in to fix things, no one would have said much.

But you went on and on and on and on about half of your kitchen running off of a single power strip, 30A fuses replacing 20A fuses in your panel because the 20s kept blowing, pictures of all sorts of very unsafe wiring, your descriptions of how you need to unplug the air conditioner to use the garage, and if I'm not mistaken, the garage is run off a wall plug on a 30A fuse which runs to an underground, unprotected cable, to another box in the garage. All scary, scary stuff.




It wasn't. I was highlighting how just because something works, doesn't necessarily mean it's right, legal, or safe.



And like i said, a temporary extension cord to keep the freezer running is one thing. An entire house filled with power strips to tritaps with extension cords going everywhere, all on over-rated fuses, is simply a disaster.



Good. I'm not against people having them, but the thought of you having one would make me want to move to another country.

You are way off on that 1st paragraph not even half of it was actually correct

 

[samiwas]

You are way off on that 1st paragraph not even half of it was actually correct

Oh, really? Let's Revisit...

But you went on and on and on and on about half of your kitchen running off of a single power strip

no not a ton of stuff, fridge, microwave, toaster, range light.

So, that appears to be true.

30A fuses replacing 20A fuses in your panel because the 20s kept blowing

The breaker fuses are 20A and 15A. The kitchen I put a 30A fuse on the circuit. kept blowing so much (from my moms electric frying pan) that it literally distroyed the 20A breaker fuse on the circuit. the pan is plugged into a 6 way power strip with a built in breaker and that breaker strip trips over the fuse blowing.

That one also appears to be true.

pictures of all sorts of very unsafe wiring

View attachment 558143 This is the junction box I tapped into for the lights. I removed the line coming in from the breaker box and attached this power cord (brown) in it's place.

That one is true too.

your descriptions of how you need to unplug the air conditioner to use the garage

I don't over work the circuit, The garage runs off one of the 30A circuits for the clothes dryer. When using the clothes dryer I unplug the cord to the garage. the other side of the dryer circuit powers the fusebox the the outside centeral AC unit. When I use the air compressor in the garage i unplug everything and just run the compressor on the extension cord.

Okay, I was wrong here...it was the dryer.


and if I'm not mistaken, the garage is run off a wall plug on a 30A fuse which runs to an underground, unprotected cable, to another box in the garage.

That outlet is just a standard outlet with a power cord and plug put on it I didn't make it I'm just utilizing it. I know exactly what is on the 30A circuit which is why I am using it.

no metal conduit at all just the standard electrical wiring burried 6 inches down.

As to why i need another breaker box? I dont. its circuit protection so the entire garages doesn't overheat/overload a single 30A circuit.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying here, but it sounds to me like the power for the garage is supplied by a cable that plugs in by the dryer into an outlet, which you then unplug as necessary.

What kind of cable runs underground to the garage?


So, what all was not true again?

 

[MacNut]

The wiring was obviously not done up to code in 1994. And it obviously was not inspected prior to the sale to MacGyvers family. So I want to know how the sale was even allowed to have occurred when the home was never inspected. Either this was a sale done under the table or this town he lives in is ass backwards and building permits don't exist.

 

[yg17]

The wiring was obviously not done up to code in 1994. And it obviously was not inspected prior to the sale to MacGyvers family. So I want to know how the sale was even allowed to have occurred when the home was never inspected. Either this was a sale done under the table or this town he lives in is ass backwards and building permits don't exist.

Can't a house be grandfathered in? My house was built in the 60s and has 2 prong outlets on the main floor (3 prong in the more recently refinished basement and kitchen). I'm pretty sure code today requires grounded outlets, but I'm under the assumption my house was grandfathered in because it passed inspection when I bought it in 2013.

 

[samiwas]

Can't a house be grandfathered in? My house was built in the 60s and has 2 prong outlets on the main floor (3 prong in the more recently refinished basement and kitchen). I'm pretty sure code today requires grounded outlets, but I'm under the assumption my house was grandfathered in because it passed inspection when I bought it in 2013.

I'm sure some things can be "grandfathered" in, such as 2-prong instead of 3-prong outlets, but I wouldn't think obvious safety issues would make the cut. I don't think all the crazy panels and sub-panels sharing fuses would be allowed to pass. And if it's true that the garage is powered off of a cable that plugs into and outlet in the house then runs underground, that most certainly wouldn't pass anything.