M1 on left and M4 on the right. I don’t feel like mine looks nearly as bad as others.
True Tone and dark mode definitely makes it more pronounced. Thoughts?
I kind of like the tone your M4 has.M1 on left and M4 on the right. I don’t feel like mine looks nearly as bad as others.
True Tone and dark mode definitely makes it more pronounced. Thoughts?
I don't see any problem with your M4 pic.M1 on left and M4 on the right. I don’t feel like mine looks nearly as bad as others.
True Tone and dark mode definitely makes it more pronounced. Thoughts?
Looks normal to me, typical LCD vs. OLED difference when photographed.M1 on left and M4 on the right. I don’t feel like mine looks nearly as bad as others.
True Tone and dark mode definitely makes it more pronounced. Thoughts?
Have you tried to calibrate the ipad with your calibrator and then use the x and y white balance values in settings>display & brightness>advanced>reference mode? Im not sure about the MBP but you may have the same options under ’Display’. Here is a video that demonstrates this:I just got a calibrator for my MBP’s monitor…
That’s because cameras (as well as human eyes) don’t “see” all light frequencies equally well, they have sensitivity curves centered on three red/green/blue primaries. Similarly, OLED displays have relatively narrow RGB spectra, whereas with LCD the spectrum is wider due to their white backlight. So the color perceived by the camera varies, roughly speaking, depending on how the display’s spectral curves matches the camera’s sensitivity curves. Physically, light color has infinite dimensions (all the different frequencies), but we compress that color space into just three dimensions (RGB primaries), and that creates variations.I just discovered that what looks the same to my eyes and what a camera sensor might see are two different things. I just got a calibrator for my MBP’s monitor and adjusted the M4 iPad using the accessibility color filter option to get the two screens to look pretty much the same. When I pulled out a mirrorless camera and took a photo, they didn’t look the same at all. When I got the two to look the same in the photo, they looked different to my eyes. So photographing OLED and LED can be problematic. It was very strange.
Just tried this and it did make a difference. I noticed the monitor change as soon as I put in the fine tuning values. It’s as close as I could get using the color filters under accessibility, maybe a little better, and a whole lot less fine-tuning. I’m pretty happy with the set-up now, though I still see a very slight difference between the MBP and the iPad as far as some colors. The greys look pretty much the same, so it will work with me. It’s been a very interesting exercise and I’ve learned a lot about monitors. I ended up using the same x and y values for the target number that were indicated in the video - I tried to find them online, but found a whole lot of information that I’m totally clueless about instead (photography is a hobby, not a profession).Have you tried to calibrate the ipad with your calibrator and then use the x and y white balance values in settings>display & brightness>advanced>reference mode? Im not sure about the MBP but you may have the same options under ’Display’. Here is a video that demonstrates this:I’m hoping that this might sort out the colour variation. Let us know if it works!
Thanks for the explanation - as someone who had cataract surgery, I have a reasonable idea of what you are talking about (colors look a lot different on an uncorrected eye than the corrected eye).That’s because cameras (as well as human eyes) don’t “see” all light frequencies equally well, they have sensitivity curves centered on three red/green/blue primaries. Similarly, OLED displays have relatively narrow RGB spectra, whereas with LCD the spectrum is wider due to their white backlight. So the color perceived by the camera varies, roughly speaking, depending on how the display’s spectral curves matches the camera’s sensitivity curves. Physically, light color has infinite dimensions (all the different frequencies), but we compress that color space into just three dimensions (RGB primaries), and that creates variations.
This is also the case with calibrators, by the way. They have internal translation curves for different panel types, and if the actual panel differs too much, the calibration can be inaccurate.
The one thing I’m noticing tonight is that while I have reference mode turned on, there’s no way to dim the display. I took the readings when it was pretty light inside and now that I’m in a dark room, I think it’s a bit bright. I’d have to turn off reference mode in order to change the brightness.Have you tried to calibrate the ipad with your calibrator and then use the x and y white balance values in settings>display & brightness>advanced>reference mode? Im not sure about the MBP but you may have the same options under ’Display’. Here is a video that demonstrates this:I’m hoping that this might sort out the colour variation. Let us know if it works!
Interesting to compare readings. I didn’t do one with True Tone active, only with the default settings. True tone looked lousy and I was interested in setting the white point.It's becoming clear that Apple is shipping some MacBook Pro M4 displays which have a warm white balance. Mine was not but I measured it with with and without True Tone enabled and this was the result.
View attachment 2380203
These are the default recommendation: https://calibrite.com/. You’ll need at least the Plus version if you want to go above 1000 nits.Any color hardware meter you guys recommend to do the measurement?
do OLED screens sort-of shift as they are on
That’s from TrueTone, which you can turn off.I think they do depending on the light. My 13" was yellow no matter, my 11" that matches my 15 Pro Max can go from cool white to warm white depending on the environment.
Nope, I never use true tone, hate it. Happens with true tone off as wellThat’s from TrueTone, which you can turn off.
Okay, I never experienced this with OLED screens, and also have not seen this with my M4. Of course the color can appear different depending on environment (the purpose of True Tone is to counteract this), but that doesn’t mean the actual color changes. That would defeat the ability to calibrate displays.Nope, I never use true tone, hate it. Happens with true tone off as well
Interesting - Your reading with a Luminance near 100 and White Point near 6500 seems ideal. How frustrating that all the new displays aren't shipping with this white point. Would be nice if Apple would comment on this.Interesting to compare readings. I didn’t do one with True Tone active, only with the default settings. True tone looked lousy and I was interested in setting the white point.
View attachment 2380224
I had the display brighter than yours. White point is different, warmer than yours. I measured it at two different times and the figures were slightly different - do OLED screens sort-of shift as they are on, or something?
These threads pop up every year and every year they are a huge nothing-burger.I think Apple may have to address this eventually. From what people are writing here, it sounds like there are a lot of them being returned (with photos posted here that look pretty bad). My assumption is that they will do an investigation before they make any type of statement - no point in saying that they have a problem if they aren’t yet sure what caused it and whether they have a real solution, so I don’t expect one any time soon. I’m just glad that I was traveling on launch day because I probably would have pre-ordered. As it was, I went into the Apple Store having read of the issues and was able to check mine out closely before I left with it.
Personally, I think it would be awesome if I could calibrate the display like I can my MBP, especially since I now own a calibrator (I bought a Calibrite Display Pro).