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Dadioh

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Feb 3, 2010
1,123
36
Canada Eh?
Trying to figure out how to order this Inductor from my MBP 13" 2010.

It is at the Firewire port
CRITICAL L4310 FERR-250-OHM
Can anyone help?
It looks like a big resistor.
I am trying to find it at Digikey, but the schematic does not give the specifics

That is a ferrite bead used for EMI control. In a pinch you should be able to just short it out and the only side effect could be higher interference to surrounding equipment. It would at least allow you to check out if the circuit is working.

----------

Thank you, cmdrdata.

However, I cannot do much with the backlight problem until I can get this MBP to boot up. With SMC bypass I do not see the LCD display come up. I had replaced the LED driver and had to solder a cap. I unfortunately had battery connected when I soldered the cap and realized too late (should not have been working on this so late in the evening!). Thus I now have a non-booting MBP.

Before this, I had a working MBP with no backlight.

No hand shakes required :D It is just finding enough time to get to all the questions.

What specific Cap were you soldering when things went South?

As the Commander indicated there are all sorts of power supplies that need to be good in order to get the logic board to boot.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Only the k24. Which schematic should I have?

K24 is the 2009 model
K6 is the 2010 model they are very similar with some minor changes.

I will attach it here. Look at page 3 for system architecture. Did this computer have liquid damage? It could be some of the other boot systems.
 

Attachments

  • MBP 2010 13%22 (K6, 820-2879).pdf
    2.4 MB · Views: 962

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
That is a ferrite bead used for EMI control. In a pinch you should be able to just short it out and the only side effect could be higher interference to surrounding equipment. It would at least allow you to check out if the circuit is working.

----------
Ok, but where can I buy one and what do I call it to order one. The board i am working on does not have a working firewire port, front usb does not work and headphone jack. This item is completely gone.
 

jlsinger

macrumors newbie
Aug 15, 2012
9
0
That is a ferrite bead used for EMI control. In a pinch you should be able to just short it out and the only side effect could be higher interference to surrounding equipment. It would at least allow you to check out if the circuit is working.

----------



No hand shakes required :D It is just finding enough time to get to all the questions.

What specific Cap were you soldering when things went South?

As the Commander indicated there are all sorts of power supplies that need to be good in order to get the logic board to boot.

Yeah, after the mishap, I went through numerous threads finding out a few details about SMC, only to get confused trying to keep track of which MBP was being discussed with issues that related to mine! LOL!

The 406 cap immediately right of 8545 driver if the LVDS connector is bottom left with pin 1 up top (connector facing right). It got blown off when replacing the 8545.
 

jlsinger

macrumors newbie
Aug 15, 2012
9
0
K24 is the 2009 model
K6 is the 2010 model they are very similar with some minor changes.

I will attach it here. Look at page 3 for system architecture. Did this computer have liquid damage? It could be some of the other boot systems.



Thank you!!

I bought locally as liquid damaged. No corrosion and LVDS is fine (no burns), but I did pull board and cleaned. I managed to get boot and display with no backlight. Found bad fuse and replaced, only also had a short in the 8545 driver. Hence, I replaced the driver and had to solder cap.The mini display worked, so everything was good except backlight until I made a huge error which was soldering cap with battery connected.

Now that I have schematic, is there anything out there to help locate components on the board?
 
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Dadioh

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Feb 3, 2010
1,123
36
Canada Eh?
That is a ferrite bead used for EMI control. In a pinch you should be able to just short it out and the only side effect could be higher interference to surrounding equipment. It would at least allow you to check out if the circuit is working.

----------
Ok, but where can I buy one and what do I call it to order one. The board i am working on does not have a working firewire port, front usb does not work and headphone jack. This item is completely gone.


I use digikey or Newark for components. If you type in the part number on their search you should be able to find a replacement. The part should be called a ferrite.
 

U-234

Suspended
May 16, 2012
72
0
Chicago, IL
Yeah, after the mishap, I went through numerous threads finding out a few details about SMC, only to get confused trying to keep track of which MBP was being discussed with issues that related to mine! LOL!

The 406 cap immediately right of 8545 driver if the LVDS connector is bottom left with pin 1 up top (connector facing right). It got blown off when replacing the 8545.

Hopefully that's all it happened. When i shorted a component serveral monthts ago, i thought that is it, but after more investigation I discovered no power on the main fuse by the battery 0V, meaning the macbook wont start. After trying few different things I finally send it for repair eBay service $250 (their repair rate 95%) they said the CPU ciruit got shorted and they can't fix it.

So the bottom line is you never know what that short did!
 

jlsinger

macrumors newbie
Aug 15, 2012
9
0
Hopefully that's all it happened. When i shorted a component serveral monthts ago, i thought that is it, but after more investigation I discovered no power on the main fuse by the battery 0V, meaning the macbook wont start. After trying few different things I finally send it for repair eBay service $250 (their repair rate 95%) they said the CPU ciruit got shorted and they can't fix it.

So the bottom line is you never know what that short did!


OUCH!!

Luckily for me I dont have much invested and not relying on this as my only computer. I bought it as a project and learning experience expecting the worst. I have been tempted to send this one in for board repair, but not quite ready to give up yet. :D
 

MacOG728893

macrumors 68000
Sep 10, 2010
1,715
114
Orange County CA
I have had a few with wonky sata cables that will sort of boot but not consistently. The sata disk cable is a flex cable and runs around a few 90deg turns so it is possible for internal traces to get broken. I would try a new cable if you can buy or borrow one. Although not sure how it would allow you to boot with the old drive. Maybe old drive is sata 1 and new drives are sata 2?

I agree with Dadioh about a bad SATA cable on a 13" MBP that I fixed a couple of years ago causing the symptoms described (I have forgotten about that fix). Bought one from eBay and it solved the problem

Okay, I will try this.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Ok folks i started a new thread with the specifics of what my computer issues are. I thought maybe it might make it easier to follow. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks!
Here is the title

"2009 13" MBP K24 2.26GHz no power liquid damage"

Original I know! :)
 

geogecko

macrumors member
Sep 22, 2008
39
30
Got a friends Early 2011 MacBook Pro 13" A1278. It was dropped from a height of about 3 feet or so, and the MagSafe plug came out of the MB. After restoring the connection he noticed that it was no longer charging. The battery is now completely dead. When the A/C adapter is plugged in, and connected to the MB, no LED's are lit on the MagSafe plug, and the MB does nothing.

I read the first 3-4 pages of this thread, and found some good information, but I am still at a loss where to start troubleshooting. The I can't get the MB to do the SMC bypass, or anything, for that matter.

I tried to check the A/C adapter, then found out that is nearly impossible, since it requires handshaking with the laptop to turn it on. Is there like a step by step guide of checking voltages on the MagSafe and logic boards that I could follow to try and determine what the problem is?

Thanks for the help. And from the looks of it, there is absolutely no water damage inside, it was just the fall that caused the problem.
 
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rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
I have a mba A1370 that wont turn on. I believe the problem is U7600. It doesn't output 5V (PP5V_S5) and 3V (PP3V_S5). As far as I understand DRVH1and DRVH2 should activate Q7660 and Q7620 but both pins are 0V. I can't find out why.


I will attach measurements on U7600, schematic and board view file if somene want to help.

Untitled.jpg

View attachment A1370 - M82 DVT3 820-2179-C.zip
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
I have a mba A1370 that wont turn on. I believe the problem is U7600. It doesn't output 5V (PP5V_S5) and 3V (PP3V_S5). As far as I understand DRVH1and DRVH2 should activate Q7660 and Q7620 but both pins are 0V. I can't find out why.


I will attach measurements on U7600, schematic and board view file if somene want to help.

View attachment 356122

View attachment 356120

How is your G3H supply voltage? Need to start there on page 57 of your schematic.
 

rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
How is your G3H supply voltage? Need to start there on page 57 of your schematic.

Thanks for replay.
G3H (PP3V42_G3H) is ok. DC Jack interface (on page 50) is ok too. That's why it is tricky. Normally, if fan wont start it is either Sys_onewire circuit, battery charher circuit or G3H.

I don't have a good LB to compare voltages. Something is causing U7600 not to open Mosfets for 3&5V.
 

Dwelch

macrumors newbie
Sep 6, 2012
1
0
Folks, I have my sister's old macbook (early 2008 white model) to fix :D
She lent it to someone that accidentally let the window of her house open and, during the night, it rained and the mac was soaked in water...

My sister got it back and, from that moment on, the macbook wouldn't charge. Now (six months later) that I have time to discover what is the deal, I discover that:

1. The computer only turns on with the power cord connected;

2. The battery, once it wasn't recognized by the computer (and phisically I confirmed it was depleted), was recharged through another macbook;

2a. After putting back the battery, the macbook would still start only if the power cord was connected.. but later - after removing the cord - it would continue working relying on the battery power source (?!!), even though the system Profile doesn't accuse any battery status;

2b. It only wakes from safe sleep after connecting the power cord;

3. Noticed then, when turning on the notebook, the Sleep Indicator Light blinked 5 times before actually booting;

4. Tried the "pressing during 5 seconds" procedure to reset the SMC;

5. Rebooted. The light blinked only once.

6. The power cord is still necessary and the battery status always accuses (calculating..) and, after sometime, (X) in black..

Is it really necessary for me to open it to discover the problem? I mean, these symptons are related to a failing logic board, or can be another component?

Sorry about any Engrish I wrote
 
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mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Folks, I have my sister's old macbook (early 2008 white model) to fix :D
She lent it to someone that accidentally let the window of her house open and, during the night, it rained and the mac was soaked in water...

My sister got it back and, from that moment on, the macbook wouldn't charge. Now (six months later) that I have time to discover what is the deal, I discover that:

1. The computer only turns on with the power cord connected;

2. The battery, once it wasn't recognized by the computer (and phisically I confirmed it was depleted), was recharged through another macbook;

2a. After putting back the battery, the macbook would still start only if the power cord was connected.. but later - after removing the cord - it would continue working relying on the battery power source (?!!), even though the system Profile doesn't accuse any battery status;

2b. It only wakes from safe sleep after connecting the power cord;

3. Noticed then, when turning on the notebook, the Sleep Indicator Light blinked 5 times before actually booting;

4. Tried the "pressing during 5 seconds" procedure to reset the SMC;

5. Rebooted. The light blinked only once.

6. The power cord is still necessary and the battery status always accuses (calculating..) and, after sometime, (X) in black..

Is it really necessary for me to open it to discover the problem? I mean, these symptons are related to a failing logic board, or can be another component?

Sorry about any Engrish I wrote

First things first: You will need to open it up and clean the corrosion on the logic board from the liquid damage.

Isopropyl alcohol of at least 91% and old tooth brush. Gently scrub the corroded areas.

Let it dry, reassemble and then try t power it on again.
From there you will have to diagnose the battery charging circuit.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Thanks for replay.
G3H (PP3V42_G3H) is ok. DC Jack interface (on page 50) is ok too. That's why it is tricky. Normally, if fan wont start it is either Sys_onewire circuit, battery charher circuit or G3H.

I don't have a good LB to compare voltages. Something is causing U7600 not to open Mosfets for 3&5V.

Ok, I just received a MBP 13" 2010 with the same exact problem you are having.
G3HOT good, charges battery, green to orange on magsafe, but not start, no fan. I do have a good board to compare to, but I am not sure what to check.
I wonder if these two are close enough for comparison. I can check values for you if you just let me know what to check.
 

rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
Ok, I just received a MBP 13" 2010 with the same exact problem you are having.
G3HOT good, charges battery, green to orange on magsafe, but not start, no fan. I do have a good board to compare to, but I am not sure what to check.
I wonder if these two are close enough for comparison. I can check values for you if you just let me know what to check.


Hi,

I think I found out why there is no 5v/3,3v from U7600. Both PP5V_S5 and PP3V3_S5 are shorted to ground. It is almost impossible to find out what is causing it. It is maybe U7600 itself.

It seems unlikely that short should come from to different sources at the same time.
I have observed the first time I checked the board for corrosion and fluid (didn't find any) that the GPU, I believe (the bigger chip) was miscolored.

So after I found out about short I tried to reflow the GPU with my IR machine as last resort. But the short was still there.

It would be nice if you could measure impendance and voltage at pins 1 and 8 on U7600 on both boards and post the results.

with kind regards
 

rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
Ok, I just received a MBP 13" 2010 with the same exact problem you are having.
G3HOT good, charges battery, green to orange on magsafe, but not start, no fan. I do have a good board to compare to, but I am not sure what to check.
I wonder if these two are close enough for comparison. I can check values for you if you just let me know what to check.

Do you know the history of yours mac? Water damage?

Mine died when the seller (if she says the true) changed battery!
She can have shorted something while doing it.

The first measurements around dc in and battery connector showed that something was wrong with voltage at Q7950 - BATT_POS_F (pins 5,6,7,8). It was pulsing whole time impossible to measure. Pins 1,2,3 and 4 were ok. So I found a macbook board with the same kind of mosfet and measured it in diode mode.

The measurements showed that mba mosfet was bad (reversed the current)
I took the mosfet out but it didn't help.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Hi,

I think I found out why there is no 5v/3,3v from U7600. Both PP5V_S5 and PP3V3_S5 are shorted to ground. It is almost impossible to find out what is causing it. It is maybe U7600 itself.

It seems unlikely that short should come from to different sources at the same time.
I have observed the first time I checked the board for corrosion and fluid (didn't find any) that the GPU, I believe (the bigger chip) was miscolored.

So after I found out about short I tried to reflow the GPU with my IR machine as last resort. But the short was still there.

It would be nice if you could measure impendance and voltage at pins 1 and 8 on U7600 on both boards and post the results.

with kind regards
Mine was liquid damage.
Ok, my layout is different then yours so my pin 7 is your pin 8 and measures 3.3v
My pin 24 is your pin 1= 0v
I do not have the equipment to measure the impedance.
Also note: My MBP that does not power on has the same values pin 7 and 24
 

U-234

Suspended
May 16, 2012
72
0
Chicago, IL
Ok, I just received a MBP 13" 2010 with the same exact problem you are having.
G3HOT good, charges battery, green to orange on magsafe, but not start, no fan. I do have a good board to compare to, but I am not sure what to check.
I wonder if these two are close enough for comparison. I can check values for you if you just let me know what to check.


Got similar problem, I have early 2011 MBP, the battery is charging solid green turns to amber, the board turns on with the fan speed normal but after 20 second the speed goes up to approx 3000rpm.

No post, no beep. I replaced few burned chips, the High Voltage circuit for power switch has 'off' readings including resistance and voltage.

U9410 pin 16 i'm getting 450KOhms instead of 0.6MOhms

Voltage wise on the surrounding caps i'm getting 7 volts where I should be getting 0V. So the readings are off big time.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Got similar problem, I have early 2011 MBP, the battery is charging solid green turns to amber, the board turns on with the fan speed normal but after 20 second the speed goes up to approx 3000rpm.

No post, no beep. I replaced few burned chips, the High Voltage circuit for power switch has 'off' readings including resistance and voltage.

U9410 pin 16 i'm getting 450KOhms instead of 0.6MOhms

Voltage wise on the surrounding caps i'm getting 7 volts where I should be getting 0V. So the readings are off big time.

Well you are ahead of us because we cant get our fans going. :)
Do you have the schematic you can upload and maybe a board file? I do not have the 2011 MBP yet and do not have U9410
 
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U-234

Suspended
May 16, 2012
72
0
Chicago, IL
Well you are ahead of us because we cant get our fans going. :)
Do you have the schematic you can upload and maybe a board file? I do not have the 2011 MBP yet and do not have U9410


I'm looking at your schema pg3, are you getting 12V on your F6905?

If yes, I would check the voltage on the two FETS Q7080 and 7085.

My newer LB has a diode but yours it appears has two FETS.

I would try to trace it and see if it is 'before' or 'after' a certain component.
 

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
I'm looking at your schema pg3, are you getting 12V on your F6905?

If yes, I would check the voltage on the two FETS Q7080 and 7085.

My newer LB has a diode but yours it appears has two FETS.

I would try to trace it and see if it is 'before' or 'after' a certain component.

Fuse is good so are the FETS
I have the complete G3Hot circuit working.
 

rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
Mine was liquid damage.
Ok, my layout is different then yours so my pin 7 is your pin 8 and measures 3.3v
My pin 24 is your pin 1= 0v
I do not have the equipment to measure the impedance.
Also note: My MBP that does not power on has the same values pin 7 and 24

Sorry I meant resistance. No impedance.I don't write in english so often.
 
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