Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

Rpg16

macrumors newbie
Nov 6, 2012
8
0
15" first-gen unibody not powering

Hi,
I have an issue with the first generation unibody 13" macbook pro and thought you might be able to help me.
The laptop is not turning on, it has all the neccessary currents, the green led is lighting up on magsafe and 3.4v appears on power switch (and properly disappears when pressing power). Pressing the power switch only makes the fans twitch once, nothing else.
I have tried all the smc/pram resets and much else (i am ACMT myself).
Would appreciate if you'd point me somewhere.
 
Last edited:

duffman13015

macrumors newbie
Sep 28, 2012
4
0
Marseille (France)
Another dead Macbook 13"!

Hello evrybody,
I have a macbook pro unibody 13" dead (led stay black on magsafe)
I can't turn on the computer with battery or with power connected.
I have the 16,5V on some component on the logic board, but i don't have the 3,425V on the out of LT3470.

If i put this voltage with a generator on the G3HOT line, the macbook goes to start?

I have tested a lot of component arround the regulator LT3470 and it's look like good.

My fuses are good too.

For information, it's a 820-2530-A logic board. And where I can find the ship LT3470, please?

Thank you.

PS: Sorry for my English :)
 

Musicsoul78

macrumors regular
Aug 24, 2012
111
0
UK ESSEX

mac-n-sauce

macrumors regular
Jun 25, 2012
209
2
Tampa, Fl
Macbook Pro 13" 2009 Bad headphone Jack

Anyone have any experience fixing bad head phone jack?
I have two computers back to back both work fine except when you plug in headphones you get no sound. It just keeps using the computer speakers.
Yes the headphones do work.
 

Musicsoul78

macrumors regular
Aug 24, 2012
111
0
UK ESSEX
Anyone have any experience fixing bad head phone jack?
I have two computers back to back both work fine except when you plug in headphones you get no sound. It just keeps using the computer speakers.
Yes the headphones do work.

do you mean to say the switching mechanism is shot in the jack....

can you see the sound jack port come up in the sound preferences
i know there is contact sense lines 2 bands and 1 pin inside the jack if thats the culprit it needs to be replaced!
... how to... is the question?

----------

Hello,

Finally, my macbook have the LT3470 dead!!!!
I try with a laboratory power and it's work!

Thank you

http://www.linear.com/product/LT3470A

this is what you need to buy

this is the chip that needs replacing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/imayne/6263277933/
 

duffman13015

macrumors newbie
Sep 28, 2012
4
0
Marseille (France)
do you mean to say the switching mechanism is shot in the jack....

can you see the sound jack port come up in the sound preferences
i know there is contact sense lines 2 bands and 1 pin inside the jack if thats the culprit it needs to be replaced!
... how to... is the question?

----------



http://www.linear.com/product/LT3470A

this is what you need to buy

this is the chip that needs replacing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/imayne/6263277933/

Thank You. Do you have a methode for replace? I try with a heat gun.
 

kennethf

macrumors newbie
Oct 17, 2012
17
0
Macbook Pro 13 2010

Hello

I am working on a liquide damage macbook pro, I have got the G3Hot to work but there is something not working. The macbook charge the battery good.
Hope some of you can help me out to continue to resolve this problem why it wont start. :)

PS when I try to do SMC bypass then I get dim green light.
If I reset the SMC then its back to normal bright green.
 

Attachments

  • Macbook pro A1278.JPG
    Macbook pro A1278.JPG
    817.4 KB · Views: 1,253
Last edited:

Dadioh

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Feb 3, 2010
1,123
36
Canada Eh?
I found out that PP3V3_LCDVDD_SW_F line is causing the mbp to shut down by removing L9004. By removing it the mbp runs but nothing comes on display. It is not shorted. So the question is can something be done about this? If backlight IC is bad, can it be the indirect cause?
And I thought about LCD. I am not sure if those two lcd I have are 100% for my mbp 13" 2009. With other words are 2009 and 2010 lcd's compatible?

with kind regards

I just fixed a tricky liquid spill MBP13 2010 with a related issue. I was getting no display and no backlight. I had already ultrasonic cleaned the board and everything looked good. During troubleshooting I found that 3.3V was not making it to pin 4 which meant tha the LCD panel was unpowered. That in turn, was detected by the MCP and it refused to enable the backlight. It appeared that L9004 was open circuit but when I eventually found it that was not the case. So when probing pin 4 of the connector I noticed that it moved.... Not good. I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

The reason for the long story is that the graphics detected that the panel was not powered and was smart enough to disable backlight. That suggests some sort of communication between the panel and the logic board. In your case, when you remove L9004 you are effectively powering down the LCD panel which suggests that either the logic board does not like something about the panel, or, as you suggested, maybe it is drawing too much current from the 3.3V rail causing the non-boot. You have tried two different panels and it still occurs? That suggests maybe pin 4 is compromised. Maybe shorted to adjacent pin? I would compare resistance measurements on pin 4 to a known good board.
 

Richard-m

macrumors newbie
Jan 18, 2012
12
0
Hampshire, UK
LVDS Connector Removal and Replacement

... I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

What are the best techniques and tools for removing and replacing the LVDS connector? I have just done one with a soldering iron, but I had to melt the connector bit by bit to get it off. It took some time, but I do now have a working screen. I am new to hot air rework, and I couldn't get enough heat to the connector using the rework machine.

Richard
 

Dadioh

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Feb 3, 2010
1,123
36
Canada Eh?
What are the best techniques and tools for removing and replacing the LVDS connector? I have just done one with a soldering iron, but I had to melt the connector bit by bit to get it off. It took some time, but I do now have a working screen. I am new to hot air rework, and I couldn't get enough heat to the connector using the rework machine.

Richard

I remove the connector with the hot air tool. It destroys the connector in the process but I am replacing it anyway. Then clean off the solder from all the pins and the ground pad. This is important because the connector needs to sit flat when you solder the new one. Leaving solder bumps will not allow it to sit in place properly. Apply flux to all pads. Place the new connector. Tack the connector in place at either end. I tack the two ground connections. Then you patiently solder each pin. Finally run a bead along the ground on the leading edge and at either side. Clean up the flux with a brush and isopropyl alcohol.

I recommend checking the connections carefully to make sure ou have not bridged any pins.
 

Richard-m

macrumors newbie
Jan 18, 2012
12
0
Hampshire, UK
I remove the connector with the hot air tool. It destroys the connector in the process but I am replacing it anyway. Then clean off the solder from all the pins and the ground pad. This is important because the connector needs to sit flat when you solder the new one. Leaving solder bumps will not allow it to sit in place properly. Apply flux to all pads. Place the new connector. Tack the connector in place at either end. I tack the two ground connections. Then you patiently solder each pin. Finally run a bead along the ground on the leading edge and at either side. Clean up the flux with a brush and isopropyl alcohol.

I recommend checking the connections carefully to make sure ou have not bridged any pins.

Thanks Dadioh. Sounds like I need to be a bit bolder with the hot air tool. I managed to destroy the old connector with the soldering iron, but I was lucky not to lift any tracks. After that, I was on the same steps as your process.
 

rickAC

macrumors member
May 16, 2012
36
1
I just fixed a tricky liquid spill MBP13 2010 with a related issue. I was getting no display and no backlight. I had already ultrasonic cleaned the board and everything looked good. During troubleshooting I found that 3.3V was not making it to pin 4 which meant tha the LCD panel was unpowered. That in turn, was detected by the MCP and it refused to enable the backlight. It appeared that L9004 was open circuit but when I eventually found it that was not the case. So when probing pin 4 of the connector I noticed that it moved.... Not good. I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

The reason for the long story is that the graphics detected that the panel was not powered and was smart enough to disable backlight. That suggests some sort of communication between the panel and the logic board. In your case, when you remove L9004 you are effectively powering down the LCD panel which suggests that either the logic board does not like something about the panel, or, as you suggested, maybe it is drawing too much current from the 3.3V rail causing the non-boot. You have tried two different panels and it still occurs? That suggests maybe pin 4 is compromised. Maybe shorted to adjacent pin? I would compare resistance measurements on pin 4 to a known good board.

Thanks.
I don't know if LCD connector in your your model is wired differently than mine (13" unibody, A1278, K24) but the problem is not pin 4 on LCD connector. It is pin 2 and 3 where I do not get 3,3V via L9004. Does it make a difference in relation to your measurements?
 

Musicsoul78

macrumors regular
Aug 24, 2012
111
0
UK ESSEX
Looks like a tantulum capacitor. Maybe 33uF based on the markings? If you have any spare part boards I would pull one off the same spot you got that one.

yeah thought of that already... no spare boards as yet thanks for the id ... very helpfull as always!;)
 

paolo8721

macrumors newbie
Nov 7, 2012
8
0
Macbok Pro 2011 2.4 i7 17"

Early 2011 2.3GHz i5 13"...

At last - talk of a 2011 MBP :) There seems to be a lack of information for the newer models...

I'm getting a green light at the magsafe but no charging and no power/boot.

I've got a 2011 2.4 i7 17" with light water damage. It's been into Apple - still under Apple Care - but obviously they won't touch it. Logic board has been cleaned and is spotless as far as I can see.

So - I've nothing to loose as I can't find anyone in the UK that does board level repairs...



First question - if anyone knows - are there any jumper pads on a 2011 ? I've tried jumping it at the ribbon connector but no go. The voltage does not go to zero when pressing the power button.


The voltages at the DC in board are 19.39 and 3.95.

The battery terminals are reading 4 volts - that's the 4th and 6th terminals


Should I proceed with diagnosis - as a bit of a newbie - or wait until I can find someone to fix it?

Thanks for your help


Paolo
 
Last edited:

palych

macrumors newbie
Oct 6, 2012
8
0
The parts you are looking for are located on the bottom of the board. This is the side you can see when you take the bottom case off the computer. They are located 1.5" left of the lcd connector near the top edge of the computer which is the north side if the battery is the south.

Thank you, mac-n-sauce.
Now I can show measurements (Magsafe / Battery / Magsafe+Battery):

Magsafe has no light. Blinks once amber when connected. Out put voltage - 16.75 V.

LT3470:
Pin 1: 0.19 / 0.56 / 0.56 V
Pin 3: 0.50 / 0.67 / 0.67 V
Pin 4: 0.60 / 0.80 / 0.80 V

R6995 - 142 Ohm
R6996 - 133 Ohm

C6994 - missing (may be lost during clean up)

ISL6258:
Pin 2: 16.75 / 10.46 / 16.58 V
Pins 10, 11: 0.59 / 0.80 / 0.80 V
Pin 14: 0.40 / 0.0 / 0.55 V
Pin 27: 16.75 / 11.12 / 16.75 V

Battery connector:
Pin 4, 6: 0.80 V
Pin 5: 0.20 V
Pins 7-9: 11.64 V

G3HOT: 0.58 / 0.80 / 0.80 V

Q7055:
Pins 1-3, 5-8: 0.0 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
Pins 4: 0.0 / 8.21 / 8.21 V

F7040 is OK

MOFSETs Q7030 and Q7035:
1. next to memory: D-G and D-S impedance - 205 k
Pins 1-4:0.0 / 0.0 / 0.0 V
Pins 5-8: 1.30 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
2. far from memory: D-G and D-S impedance - 602 k
Pins 1-4: 1.30 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
Pins 5-8: 16.75 / 11.12 / 16.75 V

Base on that information, what are my next steps to correct problem

Thank you
 

debo160

macrumors newbie
Jan 24, 2012
16
0
MACBOOK PRO 15 I5 bad keyboard connector

I picked this pro up a few weeks back. The computer would boot off the short pins. After fixing the pins replacing the keyboard connector the board will not do anything? Im thinking maybe the board is shorted with in the connector. Any advise would be highly appreciated. Thanks. And thanks to everyone who is on this page. The questions and answers here all help. :)
 

frodo837

macrumors newbie
Oct 30, 2012
4
0
a1369 backlight

frodo my bad... photo i posted was for a mb unibody white 13

your pic was great but could not see fuse please take more of whole board front and back thanks
Just had chance to take picture of backside, unfortunately my camera not so good. Please let me know if you necessary more quality images, I will try take another picture by EOS.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5400.JPG
    IMG_5400.JPG
    3.6 MB · Views: 228
  • IMG_5404.JPG
    IMG_5404.JPG
    2.8 MB · Views: 213

chex

macrumors regular
May 17, 2007
222
0
Hi, I was hoping you could help me out. I tried your SMC bypass method as well as the one on Apple's site but couldn't get it to boot.

Here's what happened: I needed to charge a battery for my torch (18650 battery) but forgot the AC power cable at home. The charger has a USB jack in it next to AC in so I figured it could charge the battery via the laptop. Wake laptop from sleep, plug in magsafe, all I remember seeing on the screen was "(Not Charging)" next to the battery, but that's normal for when i first plug it in. Plug in charger to USB, screen goes dead, laptop is off and doesn't boot. No green lights when I push the battery status button on the side of the laptop, magsafe is showing dim green/flashing amber. My friend's magsafe (2012 MB Air) shows dim green always (mine is from an older model, 2009 I think - I prefer the old design).

Model is mid-2011 13" Macbook Pro.

I opened it up and it seemed like there was something sticky on the small circuit board where the the magsafe connects, cleaned that with a plastic brush and electrical contact cleaner. No change.

While the cost of a new laptop is annoying the saddest thing is having to leave Snow Leopard argh =(
 

Musicsoul78

macrumors regular
Aug 24, 2012
111
0
UK ESSEX
Just had chance to take picture of backside, unfortunately my camera not so good. Please let me know if you necessary more quality images, I will try take another picture by EOS.

2nd picture on the right ... next to the green fuse there is a small resistor or fuse with a n on it can you take a real clear picture of that please.

----------

----------
I NEED HELP WITH THIS PLEASE

MB 13 ALUMINUM 2008

DEad BOard... is mint though

No POWER att all or at DC in Board
pins
1 0
2 0.59
3 0
4 0.59
5 0

changed 6 different dc boards all new

changed 4 different mag safes

still no power going to board any ideas what is causing this ????

something is telling the magsafe that something is wrong and not to release full voltage ... but what???

need an expert to teach me!
 

urbi

macrumors newbie
Nov 13, 2012
1
0
1. System won't turn on because 1. battery is totally depleted and the magsafe is good but when connected, the LED stays dark (no green or orange).
2. When a charged battery is put in, the system will turn on but no charging take place. System will not turn on with magsafe alone (battery taken out).
3.Once it is powered on with Battery and Macsafe plugged in, i can remove the Battery and the System
continues running. (still no green light)
4. DCIN board is ok
5. Chgr_acok with 3.4 V
6. also cleaned it completly
7. tried the smc reset

Did anyone fixed that Problem before?

For me it is a mid 2010 with a bit of water spilled into the back.


Would be nice if someone could help me with that problem !
 
Last edited:

frodo837

macrumors newbie
Oct 30, 2012
4
0
a1369 backlight

2nd picture on the right ... next to the green fuse there is a small resistor or fuse with a n on it can you take a real clear picture of that please.

checked mentioned "n" resistor it's show zero. add some more picture .
As I understand backlight driver is on backside and it's lp8545.
1. Is my understanding correct that VIN(23)pin should be connected by some fuse to "square inductive" which below green fuse on front side?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0889.JPG
    IMG_0889.JPG
    2.4 MB · Views: 334
  • IMG_0891.JPG
    IMG_0891.JPG
    3.1 MB · Views: 207
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.