Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Have you tested C7011? I believe my multimeter can test caps but everything is at my work right now.

Before I replaced U7000 I had 0v on pin 1 so it def could be a bad solder joint. but I also blew off quite a few resitors and caps because my hot air pressure was a bit to high that I had to solder back on so it could be that too.

I have not, my multimeter does not test them, however, it is reading the same voltage which would lead me to believe that its ok. Caps do not go bad very much. The 16.5v is getting to pin 2 through the fet Q7085. I have checked power through the D7005 down to R7010/R7011. My R7011 measures a little low at 7.8k but doing the math: R7011 / (R7010+R7011) x 16.5 yields 3.4v which should be fine. Hence, could it be failing from somewhere else?

Stumped I am!
 
I have not, my multimeter does not test them, however, it is reading the same voltage which would lead me to believe that its ok. Caps do not go bad very much. The 16.5v is getting to pin 2 through the fet Q7085. I have checked power through the D7005 down to R7010/R7011. My R7011 measures a little low at 7.8k but doing the math: R7011 / (R7010+R7011) x 16.5 yields 3.4v which should be fine. Hence, could it be failing from somewhere else?

Stumped I am!

We will figure it out, I don't like to lose aha.. I'll be back at it on Tuesday when I go back to work. I really need to learn how to follow the schematics better and familiarize myself with not only the route through the boards components but also the checks made along the way.
 
Hello guys

I have a Macbook Pro A1278 2009 which became liquid damage, after cleaning of the board by alcohol 99% it is fully working but it is too too too slow, and i can not use it. I tried to replace hard drive and Ram but it was still the same.

what can you think it is.

thanks in advance for all advices.
 
I have a 2010 13 Unibody with a similar issue. I know there was a water spill and now the keyboard doesn't work. I'm going to be taking it apart in a few weeks to replace the trackpad and keyboard. Could someone guide me to wear to look for corrosion by the SMC and how to remove the corrosion?

Thanks!!
 
A1342 -No Power - No Magsafe LED - Superheated 47 ohm resistor

Hello all,

I have a Macbook A1342 that is having issues. It has never been subject to any liquid damage and it is totally dead. I have tried to get some voltages and it looks like I get 1.075 volts off the G3HOT and 11.00 volts off the magsafe connector. I am using a known good magsafe adapter as well.

In going through and doing voltage checks, I felt the board as it was plugged into both the adapter and the battery. It felt warm, so I prodded around and put my finger on the 47 ohm surface mount resistor and it was hot to the touch....it actually burned my finger. With that, I unplugged everything decided to let it cool down and take some readings. I measured resistance it at 48.7 ohms. I then plugged in just the magsafe and no heat. I then unplugged the magsafe and went just with the battery's power and BAM! It heated up again. I have take and picture of the resistor and circled it. My question is what should I be looking at to troubleshoot here? Is the resistor bad and should I replace it or is there something else that is causing the resistor to heat up and not let the macbook power up? Anyone? logic board.jpg
 
No USBs - Everything working

Hello, I have a late 2008 macbook unibody aluminium (not the pro). A year back a friend of mine plugged in a powered USB hub with the wrong power adapter to my computer. Since then I can only plug a SATA to USB box that is self powered and I can work it out, no flash drives, no ipod/iphone, no nothing. Can anyone help me out on this one ?
 
Last edited:
Hi guys,

I have a small problem here. Two days ago I purchased a faulty Macbook Pro 15" core i7. Based on case damages I believe this laptop was dropped by previous owner, so now machine doesn't turn on but I get amber light when magsafe is connected. I have measured voltage in some places and found out, that PPBUS_G3H rail provides only 0.35 V (should be around 12 V right ?) The chip itself (U7000) does not look to be damaged. What would be next steps to diagnose, what's causing this issue?

Please have a look on some pics here as well:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y1hcblnopjd7eag/bu9L1WERss/820-2915-B

Thanks in advance.

Hi,

I have taken below voltages from my fully working MBP 13" (mid 2010) with magsafe plugged in. Battery was about 40% charged. This logic board comes with 6258AHRTZ (U7000). I hope this will help you guys diagnose any battery charging issues.
U7000, 6258AHRTZ voltages:
PIN1 0.00 V
PIN2 16.50V
PIN3 3.90V
PIN4 3.15V
PIN5 1.97V
PIN6 GND
PIN7 2.17V
PIN8 1.87V
PIN9 0.11V
PIN10 2.46-3.40V
PIN11 3.40V
PIN12 3.40V
PIN13 3.17V
PIN14 2.26V
PIN15 0.08V
PIN16 4.56V
PIN17 12.04V
PIN18 12.07V
PIN19 5.07V
PIN20 5.04V
PIN21 1.12V
PIN22 GND
PIN23 12.10V
PIN24 15.50V
PIN25 16.92V
PIN26 GND
PIN27 16.50V
PIN28 16.50V

Now.. I'm trying to fix my MBP 15" core i7 A1286 (820-2915-B). I have already replaced faulty 6259AHRTZ and now, machine powers on only with SMC bypass, so I'm not sure if that QFN chip has been soldered properly.
Here are my 6259AHRTZ voltages:
Pin1 0.00V
Pin2 16.70V
Pin3 4.02V
Pin4 3.26V
Pin5 1.10V
Pin6 3.47V
Pin7 0.30V
Pin8 2.20V
Pin9 0.30V
Pin10 3.45V
Pin11 3.45V
Pin12 3.45V
Pin13 3.46V
Pin14 2.20V
Pin15 0.30V
Pin16 11.00V
Pin17 12.00V
Pin18 12.00V
Pin19 5.00V
Pin20 5.00V
Pin21 0.20V
Pin22 GND
Pin23 12.00V
Pin24 12.00V
Pin25 15.20V
Pin26 13.80V
Pin27 16.70V
Pin28 16.70V

Could somebody please provide U7000 ( 6259AHRTZ) voltages from fully working machine, so I could compare them with my readings?
Thanks in advance.
 
Hi all.

The U7000 (ISL6259AHRTZ) on my K90i is getting very hot in a short
time after plugging in the power connector. This started after having
accidentally shorted C7050.

The cap seems fine (desoldered, measured no short).
Is it possible that some other component is broken or do I have to
replace U7000?

I read somewhere in this thread that U7000 has its own power supply
depending on CHGR_DCIN (measured 16.5V) and the battery (didn't
measure that one). However, there's only 0.5V on R7001.
U7000 => broken?

Thanks


The ISL6259 generates its own 5V power and that is what you should see on R7001. If you have 0.5V then it sounds like the ISL6259 (U7000) has failed.

I have replaced lots of these 6258 and 6259's. I buy them 10 at a time :) They seem to be a common failure point.

The ISL6259 was indeed defective. I replaced it and the power bus
was back at 12V on battery.

However, G3H was still missing (0.4V instead of 3.42V). The reason for
this was a defective D6990 (only one of the two diodes was burned up,
which is why I didn't suspect it earlier).

If somebody has a similar problem and, like me, no SOT-323 general
purpose diode package: it *is* possible to use two SMD diodes. Simply
solder the second diode to the probe pin instead of the original
output pin :)

Just for people experiencing the same: I measured a voltage of ~0.45V
for G3Hot and measuring the voltage behind D6990 gave me ~1.2V
so I initially assumed that the circuitry behind D9660 is broken.
This was not the case as the voltage *before* D9660 was 16V as it
is supposed to. This lead me to the conclusion that D9660 must be
broken even when the battery diode in D9660 was working.
The 1.2V I measured was just leakage from some other part of the
circuitry.
 
Last edited:
Macbook Pro Logic Board A820-2530

Does anyone know what makes the MCP go to sleep.
I'm having an issue with it going to sleep as soon as it boots.
It will get past the apple and as soon as the video gets initialized it goes to sleep.
I originally had no power, dim magsafe ended up could not get any connection from U6901 pin 5 to any other connection on that NET so jumped it over to VR5020 pin 1.
That got the machine booting but now I have a boot to sleep and nothing will wake it.
If any one has any ideas they would be appreciated :)
 
Does anyone know what makes the MCP go to sleep.
I'm having an issue with it going to sleep as soon as it boots.
It will get past the apple and as soon as the video gets initialized it goes to sleep.
I originally had no power, dim magsafe ended up could not get any connection from U6901 pin 5 to any other connection on that NET so jumped it over to VR5020 pin 1.
That got the machine booting but now I have a boot to sleep and nothing will wake it.
If any one has any ideas they would be appreciated :)

The sleep sensor is on the flex cable that goes to the battery indicator light (BIL). If the sensor is bad then you could diagnose by unplugging the sensor cable (beside the battery) and see if it resolves the issue. If it does then you need a new BIL cable.
 
Please help on smc bypass issue

Hi,

I have a MACBOOK PRO 2010 with DIM GREEN Charger Light and won't boot up.
Boots only on SMC Bypass mode
Battery doesn't charge
Changed DC-In Board but still the problem doesn't solve

Could someone please help in diagnosis

Update : After 3 days long charging, the battery indicator blinks all leds for 5 times
and when i try to switch on the macbook using powerbutton , the power button led indicator flashes once and it doesn't start . Still trying to figure out the issue. Please help
 
Does anyone know what makes the MCP go to sleep.
I'm having an issue with it going to sleep as soon as it boots.
It will get past the apple and as soon as the video gets initialized it goes to sleep.
I originally had no power, dim magsafe ended up could not get any connection from U6901 pin 5 to any other connection on that NET so jumped it over to VR5020 pin 1.
That got the machine booting but now I have a boot to sleep and nothing will wake it.
If any one has any ideas they would be appreciated :)
Hey Reballer
I had one with one of the pins of the LCD cable bent.When powered on it would either go to sleep or shut down.Try unplugging LCD cable & power on to see if it stays running.If it stays on then you know you have trouble with screen/cable.It could be the cable Dadio mentioned too.Just keep unplugging things to see if you can get it to stay on.
Good work
 
Hey Reballer
I had one with one of the pins of the LCD cable bent.When powered on it would either go to sleep or shut down.Try unplugging LCD cable & power on to see if it stays running.If it stays on then you know you have trouble with screen/cable.It could be the cable Dadio mentioned too.Just keep unplugging things to see if you can get it to stay on.
Good work

Thank you! peislander :) Took the cable out and it did not sleep so tried with another known good screen and cable but same sleep result. I'm going to try and replace the connector on the board and hopefully that is the issue. Do you happen to know what pins were shorting or not connected on your cable?

Again thanks for the help :)
 
Thank you! peislander :) Took the cable out and it did not sleep so tried with another known good screen and cable but same sleep result. I'm going to try and replace the connector on the board and hopefully that is the issue. Do you happen to know what pins were shorting or not connected on your cable?

Again thanks for the help :)
Sorry... I don't remember what pin was bent.Great to hear it stays on with LCD not connected.Hopefully just a re-flow with some flux on the pins will fix it.
Good luck
 
or what is on G3hot 820-3115-b

I do not find it on my motherboard g3hot 2012 macbook pro.
J test to the different models such as posts, but I'm stuck for measurements.
I have my card on the table with the charger, battery, fan and speaker connected. How to start without a keyboard. Charging the battery (orange) on the table.
Thank you for your help.
 
Looking for Q6910 NTUD3127CXXG

Does anyone know of a source for these Q6910 NTUD3127CXXG? Digikey is out of stock. Or maybe a compatible part? Thanks
 
We will figure it out, I don't like to lose aha.. I'll be back at it on Tuesday when I go back to work. I really need to learn how to follow the schematics better and familiarize myself with not only the route through the boards components but also the checks made along the way.

Did you ever have any luck?
 
Silly question

On an 820-2530, are the audio circuitry and the trackpad circuitry linked? Are trackpad movements actually tracked as audio? What is TP_AUD_LO1_P_L and TP_AUD_GPIO_2?
 
So I've replaced the ISL6259AHRTZ on my board and the macbook
boots up from battery (boot sound plays, no disk found), which is alright.

I noticed however, that the SMC battery indicator on the side of the
macbook is very dim when the macbook runs but bright when the
macbook is turned off. The battery is at ~80%.

Is this normal or is this an indicator for a possible voltage leak?

The only apparent problems I currently experience are

a) No backlight (described here)
b) Some keys on the keyboard are not working

Otherwise everything seems to work well as far as I can see from
the Startup Manager.

Thanks :)
 
help

I have a 2010 Macbook pro 15" 2.4.

SYMPTOMS:
When I press the power button it starts up. GOOD
I power it down (using the apple logo and then I press shut down). Then, when I try to power it back up, it doesn't power back up, nothing happens. BAD
I wait a day...presto...try it again...I press the power button and it starts up.

I tried starting it up:
1. with it running on battery power...
2. with plugged in...
3. with it plugged in and holding the power the power button for 10 seconds...

additional information:
I removed the battery and plugged in the power...macbook pro started.
I tried to restart it...it will not start.

I removed the power adaptor and plugged it back in...macbook pro started
i tried to restart it...it will not start.

Every time I remove all the power to the motherboard and then return the power (battery or power adaptor) the macbook pro starts...

I already tried the SMC reset.

Please help!!!
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

I have a mac book A1278 spilled with water and not it not powering on at all, but still charge battery when plug into wall outlet, charging indicator seem to still function.

I took the motherboard out cleaned it thoroughly with rubbing alcolhol let it dry put it back together and still not powering on.

Worry that the keyboard might damage and cause the power button not to work, so i shorted pin 5 and 29 at the keyboard connector but still nothing.

What should i do next to check the board.

Thanks you
 
Did you ever have any luck?

Just an update:

I received my parts due to the small work area even at low air pressure I seemed to keep moving/knocking components around so I ordered every cap and resistor surrounding the U7000. I had to replace R7005 because it was giving a reading well above 20 ohm that is now fixed but the voltages going in and out of U7000 are still off. I am still getting 16v on pin 1 and 0.3v on pin 14.
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.