The flex cable that links the BIL(Battery Indicator Light) is quite thin and the way it is routed inside an MBP is very close to the battery mounting screw. I have ripped mine apart that way for being careless. It will not affect the startup of the MBP, however you will lose the check battery power level function, and most importantly, the sleep function. These two are in one assembly.
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SMC Issue on MBP 13 - Hardware Troubleshooting Guide
- Thread starter Dadioh
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The flex cable that links the BIL(Battery Indicator Light) is quite thin and the way it is routed inside an MBP is very close to the battery mounting screw. I have ripped mine apart that way for being careless. It will not affect the startup of the MBP, however you will lose the check battery power level function, and most importantly, the sleep function. These two are in one assembly.
I've received a 2009 white unibody macbook (A1342) which suddenly stopped working when it was being used. The cause is possibly the use of a fake magsafe charger. The owner told me that the macbook felt sluggish with the fake charger attached but worked fine once it was charged. The situation is that the magsafe light turns green when I attach it, however the macbook refuses to boot, nothing happens when I press the power button.
I've done some measuring as you can see in my picture with a original good working magsafe attached. Both fuses (or 3? the one near the memory slot?) have continuity and the 2 at the battery and magsafe location measure 12,5 volts and 16,5. Is the third white one also a fuse?
If I measure G3HOT at the reverse side next to the keyboard connector I get something like the 3,4 volts it is supposed to be.
Any tips on what i can do next?
Smc reset/bypass did not work btw.
I've done some measuring as you can see in my picture with a original good working magsafe attached. Both fuses (or 3? the one near the memory slot?) have continuity and the 2 at the battery and magsafe location measure 12,5 volts and 16,5. Is the third white one also a fuse?
If I measure G3HOT at the reverse side next to the keyboard connector I get something like the 3,4 volts it is supposed to be.
Any tips on what i can do next?
Smc reset/bypass did not work btw.
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I've received a 2009 white unibody macbook (A1342) which suddenly stopped working when it was being used. The cause is possibly the use of a fake magsafe charger. The owner told me that the macbook felt sluggish with the fake charger attached but worked fine once it was charged. The situation is that the magsafe light turns green when I attach it, however the macbook refuses to boot, nothing happens when I press the power button.
I've done some measuring as you can see in my picture with a original good working magsafe attached. Both fuses (or 3? the one near the memory slot?) have continuity and the 2 at the battery and magsafe location measure 12,5 volts and 16,5. Is the third white one also a fuse?
If I measure G3HOT at the reverse side next to the keyboard connector I get something like the 3,4 volts it is supposed to be.
Any tips on what i can do next?
Smc reset/bypass did not work btw.
Image
Are you sure the battery is totally charged?, because when you put the magsafe and the battery is no charge the led is orange not green, often U7000 cause the macbook not power on, and the battery no charge
I measured again some voltages and noticed something. Sometimes, when magsafe is connected, voltages in the battery connector pins 7,8 and 9 are 0,5voltages (about). Then I connected magsafe again, and now there is pulsating voltage. It goes from 4volts to 9volts. My multimeter shows it like it is changing every half seconds. Like 4volts, 7v, 4,5v ,8v, 5,1v , 8,7v , 5,8v , 9v.... And then starts again from 4volts. Is it charging a little? Should the voltage be steady 12 volts?
My battery has a voltage of 12,5 volts, that seems to me to be the correct voltage for a charged battery. I did my best to find the U7000 chip you mentioned. I could not find anything with a writing similar to U7000 or ISL6259.
I did find the chip 6268A (In the center of my picture), is that the chip you mean?
yes, this chip is for charge the battery, it is the same chip but apple use ISL6258 in older MacBooks, it is not easy to change because when you buy new one the chip has not got solder paste. I repaired a lot of logicboards with this fault, if use a not original charger, sometimes cause faulty this chip and battery.
remove the battery and if you have 12,5v when you put magsafe, I think this chip is OK, so you check all the voltaje with the multimeter
sorry for my english
PD: I bought schematic and boardview file for 820-2850
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Can any of you absolute guru's help a rookie?
Long story short i was tricked into buying a A1278 K90i macbook on ebay as faulty.
The thing arrived with more corrosion than the eye could bare, no hard drive, small dents, and all sorts, but the seller assumes no responsability.
So i gave it a proper clean with a fiber pen, and put it back together for testing.
Was hoping for the
chime, but i didn't get it, even after PRAM and SMC resets. (witch it reacted too properly as well)
Did some testing, G3HOT is of course there, and until now i have assumed 5V is as well as a hard drive spins up just fine.
The magsafe communicates with the smc as it should, and the smc acts as it should. T29 power circuits only spit out 12v rather than 18.5v but i cant seem to find the source of the issues, lots of components have MV readings that go up for a while before settling, i figure these components have no real power due to a short.
It doesnt power on in SMC mode either, and its suggested by someone that a voltage is missing.
all chips get warm when the macbook comes on.
No fuses are blown
Overall im completely lost, ive tested cap's, resistors, fuses and got no closer to the issue
im starting to wander if i actually have a good 5v supply across the board
and considering possibility of U7200 being faulty, as i remember it being blackened and fairly corroded.
I cant do anything more for now as i dont have a charger for the next few days, But i come with a cry for help. Anyone know what i should be checking next? what steps to go through? ive been lurking for a while and have a good feeling you guys will be able to point me in the right direction.
Thanks for reading, looking foward to seeing what you have to see, would be awesome to see this one working, else im £220 down...
take it easy, and happy diagnosing to all those in similar situations
Long story short i was tricked into buying a A1278 K90i macbook on ebay as faulty.
The thing arrived with more corrosion than the eye could bare, no hard drive, small dents, and all sorts, but the seller assumes no responsability.
So i gave it a proper clean with a fiber pen, and put it back together for testing.
Was hoping for the
chime, but i didn't get it, even after PRAM and SMC resets. (witch it reacted too properly as well)Did some testing, G3HOT is of course there, and until now i have assumed 5V is as well as a hard drive spins up just fine.
The magsafe communicates with the smc as it should, and the smc acts as it should. T29 power circuits only spit out 12v rather than 18.5v but i cant seem to find the source of the issues, lots of components have MV readings that go up for a while before settling, i figure these components have no real power due to a short.
It doesnt power on in SMC mode either, and its suggested by someone that a voltage is missing.
all chips get warm when the macbook comes on.
No fuses are blown
Overall im completely lost, ive tested cap's, resistors, fuses and got no closer to the issue
im starting to wander if i actually have a good 5v supply across the board
and considering possibility of U7200 being faulty, as i remember it being blackened and fairly corroded.
I cant do anything more for now as i dont have a charger for the next few days, But i come with a cry for help. Anyone know what i should be checking next? what steps to go through? ive been lurking for a while and have a good feeling you guys will be able to point me in the right direction.
Thanks for reading, looking foward to seeing what you have to see, would be awesome to see this one working, else im £220 down...
take it easy, and happy diagnosing to all those in similar situations
Long story short i was tricked into buying a A1278 K90i macbook on ebay as faulty.
The thing arrived with more corrosion than the eye could bare, no hard drive, small dents, and all sorts, but the seller assumes no responsability.
So i gave it a proper clean with a fiber pen, and put it back together for testing.
Was hoping for the
Did some testing, G3HOT is of course there, and until now i have assumed 5V is as well as a hard drive spins up just fine.
The magsafe communicates with the smc as it should, and the smc acts as it should. T29 power circuits only spit out 12v rather than 18.5v but i cant seem to find the source of the issues, lots of components have MV readings that go up for a while before settling, i figure these components have no real power due to a short.
It doesnt power on in SMC mode either, and its suggested by someone that a voltage is missing.
all chips get warm when the macbook comes on.
No fuses are blown
Overall im completely lost, ive tested cap's, resistors, fuses and got no closer to the issue
im starting to wander if i actually have a good 5v supply across the board
and considering possibility of U7200 being faulty, as i remember it being blackened and fairly corroded.
I cant do anything more for now as i dont have a charger for the next few days, But i come with a cry for help. Anyone know what i should be checking next? what steps to go through? ive been lurking for a while and have a good feeling you guys will be able to point me in the right direction.
Thanks for reading, looking foward to seeing what you have to see, would be awesome to see this one working, else im £220 down...
take it easy, and happy diagnosing to all those in similar situations
Hi ZZZAC,
Just a few easy things to try: does the hard disk just spin up or can you hear it being accessed? Use a MDP adaptor to test on an external monitor as the backlight circuit or LCD connector could be bad and have you tested the memory? Try some known good ram. You sound like you are getting quite a way through the boot process. The lack of chime may simply be due to a bad keyboard!
Regards,
Chigwelldave.
Hi, im sure the hard drive is spinning up, so it would suggest 5v.
Never thought a bad keyboard would cause no chime,
And i have tried it without a keyboard installed.
Tested with good ram - still the same
Right now i dont have the adapter to test it on an external, and when i was at the shop and had an adapter i found we dont have any hdmi monitors there at the moment (massive fail on our side if all our monitors are VGA)
The LVDS cable connector did actualy have sings of liquid hitting it, only on the sponge on the top. The connector itself was cleaned and is not corroded, but i can tell you there was corrosion to the left around U3890 (820-2936 board model)
i will try get my new charger here asap (aswell as my 17" MBP witch should work fine
)and find out if the hdd is being accessed and if it displays to an external.
Edit: just a thought the keyboard didnt look to bad when i looked at it, looks like the liquid hit from a different angle, not through the keyboard per say.
Thanks allot!
Another edit: Should a active mini display to DVI adapter work with it just fine or does it have to be mac specified? (have a few of em lieing around from high spec graphics cards that use mini display port)
Another thought: even if the hard drive i tested it at was being accessed it wont have got anywhere as its not mac formatted.
Another though: forgot to mention the LED on the Front Phases in and out!
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MBPro 2010 dim green light on Magsafe
Hi Guys,
great thread. I have a MBPro 2010 with waterspill. I cleaned it with isopropyl and a toothbrush. I couldn't see any real damage on the board. When I plug in the Magsafe I can only see a very dim green light. I have no voltage on the power on pads...
Any clues what I should check next?
Best Regards
Hi Guys,
great thread. I have a MBPro 2010 with waterspill. I cleaned it with isopropyl and a toothbrush. I couldn't see any real damage on the board. When I plug in the Magsafe I can only see a very dim green light. I have no voltage on the power on pads...
Any clues what I should check next?
Best Regards
One of the power pads should be 3.4V. If not, then your G3Hot supply is dead and absolutely nothing will work.
The circuit diagram is attached. You will need to start by determining if pin 6 has 18V when Magsafe plugged in.
You didn't say which model of MBP so, assuming a 13" I also attached a photo of the device location from a 2009 MBP13". The 2010 MBP13" is in the same spot.
Attachments
That indicates sleep mode. Try unplugging the battery indicator light cable and see what happens.
Hmm, you may be onto something there because the battery was flupped aswell, 0. somthing odd volts.
will do when i get a charger, cheers dadioh
Not sure what you mean by "T29" power circuits but the system bus is 12V. The 18V coming from the magsafe goes to the ISL6258 (or 6259) charger chip which generates the 12V needed to charge the battery and run the system. The 12V then generates the other system voltages (3.3V, 5V, 1.5V, CPU, GPU, etc...). If the charge circuit is bad, "sometimes" you can get things to work with just a live battery and SMC bypass.
You mention 5V specifically. On a MBP13" that is on the top side near the wifi connector. It is a dual 3.3V / 5V supply. 3.3V should be present in S5 state. (System progresses from S5 to S3 to S0 power states). 5V comes on at S3. See power state diagram attached.
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If battery is completely flat it can sometimes get "stuck". The internal battery processor has nothing to power it and the charger won't charge the battery unless it can talk to the battery. Kind of a catch 22.
I rescued one battery by forcing 14V into it for about 5 minutes. Got it out of the stuck mode. But careful, lithium batteries can be dangerous. Do some googling and proceed with caution.
'flat' batteries still hold charge just under what there rated at. This doesn't show any voltage at all really?
and i looked under a small pop off cover where the wires go, theres small bits of corrosion internally, so i think its liquid damaged internally to the battery aswell...
Dont really want to be forcing any sort of voltage into it but my try if im feeling dangerous
I have powered it with a known working battery though, and all the same symptoms.
I have replaced the SMC chip on a Macbook Pro 15" late 2008 with an SMC chip i bought off eBay. The old chip had the latest SMC firmware which is: 1.33f8
The problem is: The new chip i have installed onto the logic board appears to have a Macbook Pro 13" 2010 SMC firmware (version 1.62f6)
Installing the chip has fixed the computer but because of the 13" SMC firmware on the 15" logic board, the left fan only works but at full speed. So i thought ok, i'll just flash over my new SMC with 1.33f8. Obviously because of the version number it is seeing it to be newer than the last Macbook pro 15" late 2008 and not allowing it to flash.
I looked up ways of trying to get around this and grabbed a copy of rEFIt that i burned to CD. I booted the CD, and went to shell. I got the following error in the image attached after trying to update the SMC. Any help would be highly appreciated, as i don't fancy the idea of having to re-ball the old chip
The problem is: The new chip i have installed onto the logic board appears to have a Macbook Pro 13" 2010 SMC firmware (version 1.62f6)
Installing the chip has fixed the computer but because of the 13" SMC firmware on the 15" logic board, the left fan only works but at full speed. So i thought ok, i'll just flash over my new SMC with 1.33f8. Obviously because of the version number it is seeing it to be newer than the last Macbook pro 15" late 2008 and not allowing it to flash.
I looked up ways of trying to get around this and grabbed a copy of rEFIt that i burned to CD. I booted the CD, and went to shell. I got the following error in the image attached after trying to update the SMC. Any help would be highly appreciated, as i don't fancy the idea of having to re-ball the old chip
In my image i've written what i have measured. With the magsafe (but without the battery) I don't get any 12,5V. 1 leg at around 14,3V/14,4V and the next 2 legs start at 12V but drop gradually in a few minutes to 0,1V.
Seems to me this is not right? Thanks for your help so far.
Image
In my image i've written what i have measured. With the magsafe (but without the battery) I don't get any 12,5V. 1 leg at around 14,3V/14,4V and the next 2 legs start at 12V but drop gradually in a few minutes to 0,1V.
Seems to me this is not right? Thanks for your help so far.
Pin 1 (upper left pin by the DOT on the package) must be Zero Volts to allow the FET to turn on. See attached. This is controlled by the charger. Since it is not pulling it low then there is something else wrong in the circuit.
Edit: And pin 2 is the 18V from the charger. It is Zero Volts so check upstream from there.
Attachments
Ok, I think U7000 is dead. But you make more test to safe this chip is KO. please check with the mutimeter in Ohms. Put a probe in pin 11 of u7000 to GND, and check the value, then put a probe in pin 10 to GND and check again. If does inferior or 230kohms the problem is in the SMC chip, this two lines use for communication with the battery. Make a one simply test, push the button too test the battery, if the 5 leds no turn on, the SMC chip is dead.
I think with your values you have in your logicboard, the U7000 is totally dead.
PD: this values are for A1278 M97 logic board, but it have the same chip,
without battery only magsafe
Pin1-0V
Pin3-4v
Pin5-1,45v
Pin7-1,2v
Pin18-12,6v
Pin17-12.6v
Pin21-0,62v
Pin23-12,6v
Pin24-13,75v
Pin28-16,7v
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Hi,
thanks a lot for your quick response. I will try that once I'm back in the office. I have no multimeter at home.
How do you know all this stuff?
Amazing.Happy New Year