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Taz416

macrumors newbie
Feb 9, 2014
6
0
Canada
Taz416,

You sound like you're at the 'boot from disk' stage so I'd try it again with an external monitor plugged in via the MDP to see if you get the Apple logo. If so, you could have a problem with the LVDS connector.

Markobb,

The chip in the south-west corner of your circle is for the 3v3 and 5v main power supplies, I'd check these are running.

Regards,
Chigwelldave.

Great,

I will check some of the voltages tonight. I did hook up an external monitor and got the same result (bright screen only ... and the MBP screen black this time, so it senses the external display I guess).

Also found this on the Net - someone earlier was talking about the magsafe connector internals so this may be of some interest.

http://www.righto.com/2013/06/teardown-and-exploration-of-magsafe.html
 

chigwelldave

macrumors member
Sep 12, 2013
96
0
Adelaide, Australia
Taz416,

I'd recommend attempting to boot from a USB drive. This will eliminate the SATA interface plus most USB flash drives or HDD docks have activity LEDS which will tell you if the machine is trying to boot. If you don't have a bootable flash, you can create one from the ASD diagnostics software, if you have it.

Display on but no Apple logo can also mean bad boot ROM firmware. Sounds like you are close to a working logic board though.

Regards,

Chigwelldave.
 

Taz416

macrumors newbie
Feb 9, 2014
6
0
Canada
Taz416,

I'd recommend attempting to boot from a USB drive. This will eliminate the SATA interface plus most USB flash drives or HDD docks have activity LEDS which will tell you if the machine is trying to boot. If you don't have a bootable flash, you can create one from the ASD diagnostics software, if you have it.

Display on but no Apple logo can also mean bad boot ROM firmware. Sounds like you are close to a working logic board though.

Regards,

Chigwelldave.

- 13" MBP Mid-2010 liquid spill

So I feel like a complete maroon. I had tried to boot from an external FW drive already so I figured I would start checking voltages.

While looking for the spot to measure G3Hot I noticed I might have neglected to connect a cable. Sure enough the trackpad cable was curled up and hiding under the logic board. Plugging that in enabled the machine to boot under SMC bypass. KB, trackpad, Airport all working, no backlight (to be expected). Battery is plugged in but still a dim green light on the magsafe.

Now on to more scrutiny. Again many thanks so far to all.
 

canzil

macrumors member
Aug 12, 2013
40
0
Hi canzil,

Looks like your part is a temperature sensor after all. It is a Microchip EMC1412-A-AC3 available from Mouser in small quantities.

Regards,

Chigwelldave.


FINALLY today I can get my logic board and a technician welded this piece for me.
assemble all the macbook and installed in a new ssd hd the mavericks and is perfect now! :D :D :D
I came here to thank the help of all of you, this topic is very very helpful even!
Never have done it without your help.
Now I need to order a battery, a glass screen, and keyboard, and this macbook almost newer again! hehe
 

Aymouche

macrumors newbie
Feb 15, 2014
1
0
Guys I accidently did the wrong SMC reset.
Well what happened is that I did the smc reset of a macbook pro with removable battery instead of macbook pro with none-removable battery ( because mine was a macbook with a non removable battery I didn't know ) and now its not charging or turning on !
Please if someone could help :)
 

tswartfiguer

macrumors member
Dec 30, 2013
52
0
Central New York
If your MacBook is fully functional from the battery but not from the magsafe then the overvoltage protection circuit has got damaged. There will be no green led or battery charge orange led from the magsafe. The post from nemo points to one possible problem but in my experience this is very rare. When the charge IC ISL6295 goes faulty, it tends to go in a dramatic way which prevents the whole MacBook powering on, even from battery. I have not had one yet that has gone faulty and only pin#14 has been the problem, hence why in my opinion I believe ISL6295 is not the problem, but please do not discount this yet. The overvoltage protection circuit needs two control signals, one from the SMC and the other from the charge IC ISL6295. Usually when electronic components fail, they do so in a manner which damages 99% of the component which in the majority of cases the MacBook would never power on via magsafe or battery. Due to your MacBook fully working via the battery, this would indicate that the SMC and charge IC have to be working 100% BUT it is possible that both are working 99% and the 1% fail is due to both components loosing the control signal to the overvoltage protection circuit. On ALL the boards I have fixed that are fully functional via the battery and not the magsafe it has always been 1 or 2 components in the overvoltage protection circuit that has gone faulty.

To be able to pinpoint what actual parts possibly need replacing and a diagnostic tip on determining which part needs replacing I need to know specifically the logic board type. On the labels attached to the memory socket it will usually have an id like K6 or K24 or K90. If not then imprinted onto the logic board itself will be an 820- number. The reason is there are too many MacBook pro variants and some of the circuitry is different in certain models so we need to be sure as to which model of logic board you have so we can continue onto the next part, the diagnostic tip.

Hello Laptech;

I have a K19 820-2523-B Logic board. My problem was that it wouldn't power on with magsafe alone. At first I was tracing lines for the ISL9504 becuase I wasn't getting VIN to the chip. So During tracing I was looking at the PPBUS and started to probe around the ISL6295 at the resistor and capacitor above pins 13 & 14 and I slipped with the probes and heard a sparking sound of something shorting out. Now the system won't turn on at all no matter what I do. SMC Bypass or nothing like that works to power it on. Also my battery was charged when this happened and now my battery reads 0.12v on the 3 power pins and the 3.5v reference pins are getting their voltages. I know the battery was charged because I had it plugged in the whole time I was testing stuff for 2 days and at that point the magsafe was indicating that it was charging just fine.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give, you seem to be one of the goto guys on this forum for help.
 

bs180

macrumors newbie
Feb 12, 2014
7
0
If your MacBook is fully functional from the battery but not from the magsafe then the overvoltage protection circuit has got damaged. There will be no green led or battery charge orange led from the magsafe. The post from nemo points to one possible problem but in my experience this is very rare. When the charge IC ISL6295 goes faulty, it tends to go in a dramatic way which prevents the whole MacBook powering on, even from battery. I have not had one yet that has gone faulty and only pin#14 has been the problem, hence why in my opinion I believe ISL6295 is not the problem, but please do not discount this yet. The overvoltage protection circuit needs two control signals, one from the SMC and the other from the charge IC ISL6295. Usually when electronic components fail, they do so in a manner which damages 99% of the component which in the majority of cases the MacBook would never power on via magsafe or battery. Due to your MacBook fully working via the battery, this would indicate that the SMC and charge IC have to be working 100% BUT it is possible that both are working 99% and the 1% fail is due to both components loosing the control signal to the overvoltage protection circuit. On ALL the boards I have fixed that are fully functional via the battery and not the magsafe it has always been 1 or 2 components in the overvoltage protection circuit that has gone faulty.

To be able to pinpoint what actual parts possibly need replacing and a diagnostic tip on determining which part needs replacing I need to know specifically the logic board type. On the labels attached to the memory socket it will usually have an id like K6 or K24 or K90. If not then imprinted onto the logic board itself will be an 820- number. The reason is there are too many MacBook pro variants and some of the circuitry is different in certain models so we need to be sure as to which model of logic board you have so we can continue onto the next part, the diagnostic tip.

hi there laptech!
i pretty new to this forum and i'm trying to get into repairing my device on my own.
okay, here's my story. i've already read at least about 30 pages of this topic and it seems that i'm at the right place with my problem.
i've got this macbook 13" (unibody late 2008) and as you mentioned above, it will power on from battery but not from the magsafe-port. so far i've checked these things:
1. macbook not charging and not running from magsafe adapter.
2. no light at all on the magsafe connector
3. macbook running fine from charged battery (just have to charge it with another mb)
4. smc reset and smc bypass won't work at all (no turning on)
5. apple power supply seems ok (outputs 6.8 v in "no load"-mode)
6. dc-board seems to be ok (6.8 v going in from the magsafe and coming out of the cable to logic board)


i'm desperately looking for help as i have no clue where to start looking for the error. another question i'm asking myself is: i've ownloaded all the schematic files for my macbook, but i have no idea, how i'm supposed to identify the different fuses etc. on the logic board.
is there some kind of software i can use, or other documents i need, where i can see how the components on the board are named? for example: how can i tell where to look for the "F6905" on the logic board?

i really appreciate your work here. it's great to learn something from other people.

i really hope you can help me!


oh and by the way:. my board has the number "W89090BP46KMA M97A 2.0G BETTER" sticked to the ram-banks. i hope this is the number you need to determine the board...
 

chigwelldave

macrumors member
Sep 12, 2013
96
0
Adelaide, Australia
Hi bs180,

In addition to the schematic, you will need the board view file and landrex software. The board views are sometimes named after the model name (K90i etc) or the board part (820-2879 etc). You will find the 820- number on the logic board itself as a copper trace. You can enter the component reference (up to 3 at a time) into the landrex and it will highlight the location of the component for you. This is a windows app but works fine under Wine.

Chigwelldave.
 

bs180

macrumors newbie
Feb 12, 2014
7
0
Hi bs180,

In addition to the schematic, you will need the board view file and landrex software. The board views are sometimes named after the model name (K90i etc) or the board part (820-2879 etc). You will find the 820- number on the logic board itself as a copper trace. You can enter the component reference (up to 3 at a time) into the landrex and it will highlight the location of the component for you. This is a windows app but works fine under Wine.

Chigwelldave.

hi chigwell!
thank you very much for this information. i'll check the software out and try to find the view files for my mb. by the way, i've found the number laptech was asking for. it's 820-23-27-A.

so thank you again. i'm going to have a first look at it today.
 

dellxps15

macrumors member
Oct 22, 2013
86
0
hi all, im here with another macbook A1278 with damaged backlight fuse. it show 12.8v from one side and 0 to the other so i think it need to be replaced, but now i need to buy a proper fuse type that match for it.

on ebay ive found different model.

Code:
Product Information

    FUSE, SMD, 0402, 2A
    Voltage Rating V DC: 24V
    Fuse Current: 2A
    Breaking Capacity: 35A @ 24V DC
    Blow Characteristic: Fast Acting
    Series: -
    Fuse Case Style: 0402
    MSL: MSL 1 - Unlimited
    External Depth: 0.51mm
    External Length / Height: 1mm
    External Width: 0.51mm
    Fuse Type Blowing Characteristic: Fast Acting

NOTE - image is for illustrative purposes only, please check product details above fully before purchase

Price For: 1 Each

is that ok for me ? that costs 6€ each.. so a bit expensive.

all other cheaper fuse that are on ebay are 32v instead of 24. are they ok too? what i have to look for a proper fuse?

0402 package, fast acting, 2a and what else ?

tnx for reply
 

crosstalk

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2014
2
0
Hello. Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I am looking for help repairing a 2010 13" MBP with liquid damage. I am getting a solid 3.42v on g3hot and a green magsafe light. I am getting a solid 16v from the magsafe adapter. My battery is completely drained, so I have disconnected it for now. Problem is the 12v rail is fluctuating/switching from 2.5v to 12.5v. I am not sure if u7000 is to blame or something else. Has anyone seen this before?
 

Taz416

macrumors newbie
Feb 9, 2014
6
0
Canada
Well I got a really good deal on eBay on a Metcal SP200. I think OKI has bought Metcal and I don't think they make the SP200 anymore but if you can find a good deal, even on a used one, it is probably better than a new cheaper brand. The Metcal heats up almost instantly and has very precise temperature control at the tip. Lots of different tips available too.

http://canada.newark.com/metcal/sp200-11/solder-station/dp/04M4605

As far as microscopes go, I bought from these guys since I am in Canada. Huge selection and good prices. You can probably find an equivalent place in the US.

You want a good boom stand, a circular LED light, and a 0.5X Barlow lens to increase the distance under the microscope so you can get a soldering iron in there.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dual-bar-Boo...n_2&hash=item1c2b1b0f35&_uhb=1#ht_4445wt_1041

Hey Dadioh,

Can you suggest a good soldering station for some of this board level work. I am thinking on taking it up as a hobby repairing some in my spare time. I have a bit of a background with some experience - probably enough to make me dangerous ;-)
 

dellxps15

macrumors member
Oct 22, 2013
86
0

chigwelldave

macrumors member
Sep 12, 2013
96
0
Adelaide, Australia
Hi dellxps15,

Look back in the thread to post 2282 where backlight fuses were discussed. The type of fuse will depend on the screen size and are available from Digikey or RS among many. Should cost you under a dollar per device (but you may have to buy 5 or 10).

Chigwelldave.
 

dellxps15

macrumors member
Oct 22, 2013
86
0
Hi dellxps15,

Look back in the thread to post 2282 where backlight fuses were discussed. The type of fuse will depend on the screen size and are available from Digikey or RS among many. Should cost you under a dollar per device (but you may have to buy 5 or 10).

Chigwelldave.

i saw that but he talk about a 0603 package, while my macbook is a 13 inch so 0402 package. fuse is located at the back of the mainboard (macbook unibody 2008).

digikey or mouser have big ship costs ( to italy)

on that post he talk aabout 32v but isn't 24 volt better?


edit: ok seen on digikey and right fuse is the 24 volt, but ship cost is 30$ so ill go with ebay and get 2 for 20€ ship included :D

PS: have another macbook that from a day to another just got stuck on loading. trying to restore it is the same... after hours is still loading....

what could be the cause ?
 
Last edited:

Kmad86

macrumors member
Sep 11, 2009
59
19
So if you guys are in a position of replacing the smc chip, how do you get one programmed as from what I read they come blank?
 

crosstalk

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2014
2
0
Hello. Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I am looking for help repairing a 2010 13" MBP with liquid damage. I am getting a solid 3.42v on g3hot and a green magsafe light. I am getting a solid 16v from the magsafe adapter. My battery is completely drained, so I have disconnected it for now. Problem is the 12v rail is fluctuating/switching from 2.5v to 12.5v. I am not sure if u7000 is to blame or something else. Has anyone seen this before?

Following on to my last post, I charged the battery externally to ~10v. Now, with the battery and magsafe connected I get a solid 12.5v (not fluctuating) on the 12v rail (e.g. at F7040). Still green (not orange) on the magsafe. Board is still not booting (no fan/chime).
 

tswartfiguer

macrumors member
Dec 30, 2013
52
0
Central New York
Following on to my last post, I charged the battery externally to ~10v. Now, with the battery and magsafe connected I get a solid 12.5v (not fluctuating) on the 12v rail (e.g. at F7040). Still green (not orange) on the magsafe. Board is still not booting (no fan/chime).

Have you tried starting the board with an SMC bypass.

unplug all power battery and magsafe. Press and hold power button for 10-15 seconds while continueing to hold power plug the magesafe back in and continue to hold power for another 10 seconds then release and press power one more time it might kick on the fans. This has worked for me a couple of times.

An alternative to method above is finding the points on the board that you can short out to start in SMC Bypass mode. The points are normally 2 square white boxes somewhere next to the SMC. If you have the boardview check what they are labeled before you go and short the 2 together. If you email me your schematic and boardview I can help you find the points to short together.

Hope this helps. Let us know

----------

I ran a test on Apple service diagnostics and came up with:

1. Current (ICOR) Computing (Combined Cores) (TEST1)
-- Sensor is reading above high limit

2. Voltage (VPOR) PBus (TEST 1)
-- Sensor is reading below low limit


Does anyone know where to start looking for these issues. The 820-2936 K90i board will start up and boot into OSX just fine without the battery installed. If I install the battery and boot the system, the kernel task will suck up all the CPU Usage and the computer is very slow.

Any ideas of where to start would be great, it is just very weird that with the magsafe alone the macbook runs like it should no problems at all.

Note: This was originally purchased by me as a water damage logic board I fixed various other issues preventing the system to boot and now I am left with this issue I have never worked on or traced sensors before so I need a little help on where to look and what can effect these errors I am getting in ASD.

Thanks in advace
 

South657

macrumors member
Feb 14, 2014
67
0
portsmouth UK
Hi all this is my first post so hello to you all.
Have just got a non working 820.2963. b board. Before i put any power on this board would any one know the resistances at dc in pins and the battery in put pins on this board.

It looks like i have a short at dc in, I have 1.841 meg at the pin near to the side of the board, the 2 on the other side are near two dead short smc line is a short as well? http://cdn.macrumors.com/vb/images/smilies/frown.gif
The battery all 3 + 65k

All so 25Q064A has been replaced? Is this to get round pass word in bios?
I do not know the history of the board looks like it might have had a liquid spill
at some point?
 

tswartfiguer

macrumors member
Dec 30, 2013
52
0
Central New York
Hi all this is my first post so hello to you all.
Have just got a non working 820.2963. b board. Before i put any power on this board would any one know the resistances at dc in pins and the battery in put pins on this board.

It looks like i have a short at dc in, I have 1.841 meg at the pin near to the side of the board, the 2 on the other side are near two dead short smc line is a short as well? http://cdn.macrumors.com/vb/images/smilies/frown.gif
The battery all 3 + 65k

All so 25Q064A has been replaced? Is this to get round pass word in bios?
I do not know the history of the board looks like it might have had a liquid spill
at some point?

Here is the page of the schematic that shows the battery connector. I am not sure what the resistance should be. Do continuity tests to see if the ground pins are grounded and see if the power pins are connecting to the capacitors that the schematic shows.
 

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South657

macrumors member
Feb 14, 2014
67
0
portsmouth UK
dc in

Hi tswartfiguer.
pin 1,2,3, is nearest the ram if so all good to ground. 7,8,9, all have continuity to each other. pin 1 to 9 128K would you think OK. I need to find c6950? I have the board viewer but can not load the file? LOL

DC in 1,2, good to both sides of fuse. So need to find C6905 Pins 3,4, good to ground. fuse to ground 38K? Would you think that's about right.

I have not got a battery yet for this board so will be starting this job with the magsafe only. I have not got the power board yet should be with me in a day or two.
thanks for the reply
 

tswartfiguer

macrumors member
Dec 30, 2013
52
0
Central New York
Hi tswartfiguer.
pin 1,2,3, is nearest the ram if so all good to ground. 7,8,9, all have continuity to each other. pin 1 to 9 128K would you think OK. I need to find c6950? I have the board viewer but can not load the file? LOL

DC in 1,2, good to both sides of fuse. So need to find C6905 Pins 3,4, good to ground. fuse to ground 38K? Would you think that's about right.

I have not got a battery yet for this board so will be starting this job with the magsafe only. I have not got the power board yet should be with me in a day or two.
thanks for the reply

I would have to test my board to tell you if the resistance values are ok.

You are on a mac I assume that is why you cant lead the board viewer. If so I use a program called parallels desktop it is a virtual machine so you can run windows app inside mac osx. Try it out and let me know what you get.
 

South657

macrumors member
Feb 14, 2014
67
0
portsmouth UK
Hi tswartfiguer

No I am running windows 7 on pc LOL did notice the drawing is older then my board my board i think is a K90i 2011 2.3gh, it looks like it has an extra cap on the battery in put c6950 & c6960
thanks for the help.
 

tswartfiguer

macrumors member
Dec 30, 2013
52
0
Central New York
Hi tswartfiguer

No I am running windows 7 on pc LOL did notice the drawing is older then my board my board i think is a K90i 2011 2.3gh, it looks like it has an extra cap on the battery in put c6950 & c6960
thanks for the help.

You right I have 2 different revisions of the schematic here is the one you are talking about.
 

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South657

macrumors member
Feb 14, 2014
67
0
portsmouth UK
DC in

Hi tswartfiguer,

Yes thats it, so please can someone help me if you have a good board to hand with out having to take your Macbook apart. Just need to know if i am in the ballpark, do not want to melt anything before i start.

The new magsafe i have reads 16.5 volts x 2 the old one started at .03 volts
x2 not happy with this.
Thanks
 
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