SMC Issue on MBP 13 - Hardware Troubleshooting Guide

[Taz416]

Keyboard Connector

Hey there,

I would appreciate any info as to whether any A1278 keyboard connector would be compatible as a replacement on a 13" MBP A1278 EMC No.2554 as I see them on eBay but they are not indicated as fitting a Mid-2012 13" i5.

Thanks for any help

 

[Byeelectric]

MacBook Repair

Just an FYI for those whom are unsure. MacBooks have a handshake process that must complete before the system will boot. I have been repairing water damaged units and as expected all cannot be repaired, in my experience A1278 can be difficult due to the surface mount devices on the board that are hard to find (silver looking chips and some of the buck regulators). SMC bypass is for debugging and if you listen and watch should have an idea of the issue.

Example: I have a water damaged unit I picked up today. I confirmed water damage by the green corrosion on some of the IC's pins. I cleaned the board with Kester 951 flux to stop additional corrosion.

Magsafe green only, removing all power and plugging in the magsafe does not turn the unit on automatically!

Press power and fan runs low, reset PRAM then SMC bypass gave me SIL flashing 5 times and then 1 beep constant afterwards. I powered off the unit and then back on. No more five blinks, no more 1 beep only the fan running low speed.

If I reset the PRAM and do the SMC bypass I will start over with 5 blinks on the SIL and 1 beep afterwards.

So what is the issue: The issue is the Intersil Battery charge IC. When these IC's short energy sent through them may not return any result to the SMC. In fact the shorted energy may cause the memory to not be powered as Intersil "Battery Charge IC's" are used many times on Apple's logic boards. These Battery charge IC's are used for the keyboard, trackpad, USB, Isight camera, memory, hard disk and for the DVD drive. Just because it is called "battery charge IC" does not state it will be used only to charge the battery. Since these Battery charge IC's have so much functionality in these units keep in mind if the Magsafe adapter does not turn amber there is missing voltage to or in the battery charge IC(s) and you must have rework skills as well as parts to repair this.

Personally I do not like to waste time on these things therefore I use common sense and my knowledge base to make an initial diagnosis. These are not that hard to repair, it is the person.

Simple things for complicated people

Keep it simple and you'll be alright because you will not stress yourself and have fun doing a repair using minimal parts and labor.

If all fails then we save up for a used but working board, even if we save for three to six months we get what we want

 

[tswartfiguer]

Just an FYI for those whom are unsure. MacBooks have a handshake process that must complete before the system will boot. I have been repairing water damaged units and as expected all cannot be repaired, in my experience A1278 can be difficult due to the surface mount devices on the board that are hard to find (silver looking chips and some of the buck regulators). SMC bypass is for debugging and if you listen and watch should have an idea of the issue.

Example: I have a water damaged unit I picked up today. I confirmed water damage by the green corrosion on some of the IC's pins. I cleaned the board with Kester 951 flux to stop additional corrosion.

Magsafe green only, removing all power and plugging in the magsafe does not turn the unit on automatically!

Press power and fan runs low, reset PRAM then SMC bypass gave me SIL flashing 5 times and then 1 beep constant afterwards. I powered off the unit and then back on. No more five blinks, no more 1 beep only the fan running low speed.

If I reset the PRAM and do the SMC bypass I will start over with 5 blinks on the SIL and 1 beep afterwards.

So what is the issue: The issue is the Intersil Battery charge IC. When these IC's short energy sent through them may not return any result to the SMC. In fact the shorted energy may cause the memory to not be powered as Intersil "Battery Charge IC's" are used many times on Apple's logic boards. These Battery charge IC's are used for the keyboard, trackpad, USB, Isight camera, memory, hard disk and for the DVD drive. Just because it is called "battery charge IC" does not state it will be used only to charge the battery. Since these Battery charge IC's have so much functionality in these units keep in mind if the Magsafe adapter does not turn amber there is missing voltage to or in the battery charge IC(s) and you must have rework skills as well as parts to repair this.

Personally I do not like to waste time on these things therefore I use common sense and my knowledge base to make an initial diagnosis. These are not that hard to repair, it is the person.

Simple things for complicated people

Keep it simple and you'll be alright because you will not stress yourself and have fun doing a repair using minimal parts and labor.

If all fails then we save up for a used but working board, even if we save for three to six months we get what we want

byeelectric;

You seem like you know a thing or 2 about the MacBooks and the logic board problems. Why do you think that I am getting ICOR and VPOR errors within ASD.

The ICOR error is below low limit and the VPOR is above alarm limit. I think that the VPOR might have something to do with the charger IC being that the charger IC controls the PBus voltages. If it isn't the itersil chip it is somewhere in the PBus line. I just don't know where to start, I have all the tools I need like a rework station re-ball station and all that. I used to be more of a PC guy until I started using Linux and then naturally went to apple after I got a broken system and repaired it and I have been repairing them ever since. I just haven't ran into this issue with the senors.

Also worth noting if I install a battery the kernel sucks up all the CPU resources and the system is slow but when I remove the battery and run off magsafe alone the system runs fine. The weird thing is that when the system has battery and the CPU is at or around 95-100% usage the temp of the cpu doesn't go up like you think it would and the fans stays at normal speeds as well. At first I thought it was software but Apple hardware test fails on the same errors.

Any ideas of where to check or start.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Byeelectric]

MacBook fix

byeelectric;

You seem like you know a thing or 2 about the MacBooks and the logic board problems. Why do you think that I am getting ICOR and VPOR errors within ASD.

The ICOR error is below low limit and the VPOR is above alarm limit. I think that the VPOR might have something to do with the charger IC being that the charger IC controls the PBus voltages. If it isn't the itersil chip it is somewhere in the PBus line. I just don't know where to start, I have all the tools I need like a rework station re-ball station and all that. I used to be more of a PC guy until I started using Linux and then naturally went to apple after I got a broken system and repaired it and I have been repairing them ever since. I just haven't ran into this issue with the senors.

Also worth noting if I install a battery the kernel sucks up all the CPU resources and the system is slow but when I remove the battery and run off magsafe alone the system runs fine. The weird thing is that when the system has battery and the CPU is at or around 95-100% usage the temp of the cpu doesn't go up like you think it would and the fans stays at normal speeds as well. At first I thought it was software but Apple hardware test fails on the same errors.

Any ideas of where to check or start.

Thanks in advance.

Per research

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/98449/Apple+hardware+test+Failure+code...

Per knowledge base


I advise error amps in Macbook VGate however I am not sure what model your working on. The logic board Vgate high/low feedback point from the GPU/CPU regulators and/or temp sensors to the SMC via Intersil(s). Unless you have an X-ray machine you cannot verify the multi-layers, you going to have to trace Point To Point. Do ESR tests around any LDO diodes and LDO buck regulators near the CPU and Video processor then check ESR for the regulators near the memory and Hard drive(I am not sure if you know how to do ESR check). The Intersil chips have buck regulators leading to them and the error amps are built in the Intersil chips so if the buck up voltage is too high or low take a guess of what happens. If the SMD capacitors are shorting from the buck regulator(s) you should see the missing voltage(s) and this will point to the buck regulator/area that has gone bad.

If your getting battery/system slow issues it may be the TPS5117 and/or the ISL9504 (Model a1278) near the memory once again I cannot verify the model your working on. You seem to have PBus issues indeed, try not to forget Apple uses so many "Buck up" regulators in this machine that they have to use more than one Intersil to manage the power.

Any Intersil malfunction will report via VGate feedback causing the SMC to intervene, not serious enough to cause the unit to shut down. The slow down of course is the CPU being under powered. (May be component level, not software/EEPROM)

 

[tswartfiguer]

Per research

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/98449/Apple+hardware+test+Failure+code...
Per knowledge base

I advise error amps in Macbook VGate however I am not sure what model your working on. The logic board/logic gates point to the CPU/Video regulators and/or temp sensors when it behaves in such a way. Unless you have an X-ray machine you cannot verify the multi-layers, If you do not have a reflow oven your going to have to trace Point To Point. Do ESR tests around any LDO diodes and LDO buck regulators near the CPU and Video processor then check the ESR for the regulators near the memory and Hard drive(I am not sure if you know how to do ESR check). The Intersil chips have buck regulators leading to them and the error amps are built in the Intersil chips so if the buck up voltage is too high or low take a guess of what happens. If the SMD capacitors are shorting you should see the missing voltages and this will point to the buck regulator/area that has gone bad.

I have done countless hours of research, I am not the lazy guy that just goes to a forum to give me all the answers. When I first bought this broken machine it wouldn't even power on at all. I have gotten it to tho point now but like I said I haven't done any repairs on MacBooks having to do with sensors before. I do have a reflow oven and reflow machine, like I said in my previous post, I have been working on PC laptops for a long time. I just started into Apple laptops which anyone will tell you are very different in the way they construct their circuits.

What would you do with the reflow oven? Bake the board with Kester 951 to make sure everything is cleaned up? I ran the board threw my ultrasonic cleaner when I first got it. But if there are better ways to cleaning them up I am open to it. And yes I know what effective series resistance is the capacitors seem fine.

I'll keep checking point to point and I will figure it out eventually just thought I could save myself a few minutes thats all. Thanks anyway. Per research

 

[Byeelectric]

I have done countless hours of research, I am not the lazy guy that just goes to a forum to give me all the answers. When I first bought this broken machine it wouldn't even power on at all. I have gotten it to tho point now but like I said I haven't done any repairs on MacBooks having to do with sensors before. I do have a reflow oven and reflow machine, like I said in my previous post, I have been working on PC laptops for a long time. I just started into Apple laptops which anyone will tell you are very different in the way they construct their circuits.

What would you do with the reflow oven? Bake the board with Kester 951 to make sure everything is cleaned up? I ran the board threw my ultrasonic cleaner when I first got it. But if there are better ways to cleaning them up I am open to it. And yes I know what effective series resistance is the capacitors seem fine.

I'll keep checking point to point and I will figure it out eventually just thought I could save myself a few minutes thats all. Thanks anyway. Per research

If you cleaned the board ultrasonic then your fine, I use reflow only to confirm all components are properly soldered after cleaning the board and yes the Kester 951 keeps the board from further corrosion. Wow...I like your style....own reflow oven and ultrasonic cleaner...your scary as I need to build me a profile reflow oven, I have everything else.

Voltage to Gate error amp feedback, trust it is intersils or the buck regs near them. If battery power has slowdown then the regulation is not happening on battery power. Intersils are power management/battery charge IC's that report to the SMC as well as provide management over the circuit they are in (V+ logic feedback to the SMC) Apple has LDO regulators between the CPU and memory data lines and intersils on the memory Vin with buck regulators on the intersil Vin. The intersils are on the USB lines, trackpad, keyboard, and drives therefore finding which has too much current drawn will be your next task.

If the ESR's are fine then you have a buck reg or intersil power management issue, you may not be able to tell as the logic signals can be .06vdc or lower pulsed.


Do you have a curve tracer? You need to try to see the diodes inside the buck regs and use a scope to check the logic feedback. This is a Voltage To Gate error amp feedback issue definitely

Man I like you

BTW, I only looked for a solution to help because I do not always trust what I know/say. Maybe someone found a different solution. I am not an "immediately replace the logic board" type of guy. The logic gates are very important and the intersils can be tricky so really your going to Point to Point test for voltages...I feel for you as I know this dirt all too well. I'm telling' ya... you have a buck reg to intersil and/or intersil issue.

When all is said and done, and you fixed this issue. I want you to come back to this forum and tell me I was wrong

 

[Byeelectric]

I have done countless hours of research, I am not the lazy guy that just goes to a forum to give me all the answers. When I first bought this broken machine it wouldn't even power on at all. I have gotten it to tho point now but like I said I haven't done any repairs on MacBooks having to do with sensors before. I do have a reflow oven and reflow machine, like I said in my previous post, I have been working on PC laptops for a long time. I just started into Apple laptops which anyone will tell you are very different in the way they construct their circuits.

What would you do with the reflow oven? Bake the board with Kester 951 to make sure everything is cleaned up? I ran the board threw my ultrasonic cleaner when I first got it. But if there are better ways to cleaning them up I am open to it. And yes I know what effective series resistance is the capacitors seem fine.

I'll keep checking point to point and I will figure it out eventually just thought I could save myself a few minutes thats all. Thanks anyway. Per research

You forgot per Knowledge base I already posted a response, I want you to see this to as for what intersils can do

here to: http://www.researchgate.net/publica...or_amplifier_for_voltage-mode_buck_converters

 

[tswartfiguer]

If you cleaned the board ultrasonic then your fine, I use reflow only to confirm all components are properly soldered after cleaning the board and yes the Kester 951 keeps the board from further corrosion. Wow...I like your style....own reflow oven and ultrasonic cleaner...your scary as I need to build me a profile reflow oven, I have everything else.

Voltage to Gate error amp feedback, trust it is intersils or the buck regs near them. If battery power has slowdown then the regulation is not happening on battery power. Intersils are power management/battery charge IC's that report to the SMC as well as provide management over the circuit they are in (V+ logic feedback to the SMC) Apple has LDO regulators between the CPU and memory data lines and intersils on the memory Vin with buck regulators on the intersil Vin. The intersils are on the USB lines, trackpad, keyboard, and drives therefore finding which has too much current drawn will be your next task.

If the ESR's are fine then you have a buck reg or intersil power management issue, you may not be able to tell as the logic signals can be .06vdc or lower pulsed.


Do you have a curve tracer? You need to try to see the diodes inside the buck regs and use a scope to check the logic feedback. This is a Voltage To Gate error amp feedback issue definitely

Man I like you

BTW, I only looked for a solution to help because I do not always trust what I know/say. Maybe someone found a different solution. I am not an "immediately replace the logic board" type of guy. The logic gates are very important and the intersils can be tricky so really your going to Point to Point test for voltages...I feel for you as I know this dirt all too well. I'm telling' ya... you have a buck reg to intersil and/or intersil issue.

When all is said and done, and you fixed this issue. I want you to come back to this forum and tell me I was wrong

I got lucky and was working for a computer repair shop when they went our of business, so I was able to get a few nice tools for pretty cheap. Reflow oven included. You can make a simple reflow over out of a toaster oven. I have heard that works pretty good as long as you get a good brand one that you can trust the temp being pretty steady on.

Anyway I think your right about the voltage to gate issue because U5410 (INA213) I have voltage to the reference and voltage to the source but the drain isn't getting the full voltage only has 0.9v at best.

And then U5400 (INA213) I have voltage to the gate and the reference voltage but only .73v to the drain. I tried to find these to buy a new one and they are back-ordered for a while bot at digi-key and mouser. I was looking to see if I was wrong like maybe my gate voltages were wrong and that is why my drain wasn't right on both. Right next to these chips there was the corrosion from the water damage when I bought it. SMC also had some corrosion around it as well and I had to replace a few 402 packages around it to get a post on the macbook.

Thanks for looking for me but it seems anywhere you go and look for help people just say do a SMC Reset and if that don't work you need a logic board LOL I always laugh because it is like Geez I never thought about getting a new logic board and that would fix the problem Thanks for the help you know what I mean Like Apple support forums that is all you ever hear over there for a solution.

If you want to look into my problem here the board I am working on is a 820-2936-B K90i Mid-2011 MBP A1278 13" Thanks for your help so far and I hope I can get this fixed I have a few hundred tied up in the computer so far so I would like to see a return at some point

 

[Byeelectric]

I got lucky and was working for a computer repair shop when they went our of business, so I was able to get a few nice tools for pretty cheap. Reflow oven included. You can make a simple reflow over out of a toaster oven. I have heard that works pretty good as long as you get a good brand one that you can trust the temp being pretty steady on.

Anyway I think your right about the voltage to gate issue because U5410 (INA213) I have voltage to the reference and voltage to the source but the drain isn't getting the full voltage only has 0.9v at best.

And then U5400 (INA213) I have voltage to the gate and the reference voltage but only .73v to the drain. I tried to find these to buy a new one and they are back-ordered for a while bot at digi-key and mouser. I was looking to see if I was wrong like maybe my gate voltages were wrong and that is why my drain wasn't right on both. Right next to these chips there was the corrosion from the water damage when I bought it. SMC also had some corrosion around it as well and I had to replace a few 402 packages around it to get a post on the macbook.

Thanks for looking for me but it seems anywhere you go and look for help people just say do a SMC Reset and if that don't work you need a logic board LOL I always laugh because it is like Geez I never thought about getting a new logic board and that would fix the problem Thanks for the help you know what I mean Like Apple support forums that is all you ever hear over there for a solution.

If you want to look into my problem here the board I am working on is a 820-2936-B K90i Mid-2011 MBP A1278 13" Thanks for your help so far and I hope I can get this fixed I have a few hundred tied up in the computer so far so I would like to see a return at some point

You are too funny, MacBook Forums...LMAO because yeah, they PRAM/SMC reset all over the place and then you get the geek geek that say's "I have .1v here and .3v here and .07v here...are you getting the voltages I'm getting?....PM me"... What a piece of work!


Sorry I left the wrong impression. The advise I gave you is per my knowledge base as I am a technician for the past 30+ years. I do not have access to ASD and have not used it therefore my first post was an on-line reference.

My Voltage to Gate advise is per my own experience, I would never use a toaster oven as I know how to build an actual profile reflow oven like you'd find in a shop.

Unfortunately I do not know what to say about the voltages your getting because Apple uses "Low Drop Out" profile over the entire logic board bringing Point To Point connectivity at nearly zero ohms (I read about 13 ohms across the entire board). The Voltage To Gate Feedback reference can be very low voltages and some are modulated/pulsed from the intersils however Apple somehow secured data sheet rights.

I have been doing the A1278 Mid-2010 13". I have only repaired two water damaged units like the one your working. Sorry I do not have one here to reference and assist you. You Have an excellent machine and on EBay it is worth $500-$600 in the current condition (Pun Intended). My client has at least 2 of those for me to fix however we have been doing a "one at a time" thing. (Trust??)


He buys them, I fix them and then he re-sells them on Ebay

I will check later to see if I can find anything else, I remember the board (as crazy as it seems like closing your eyes and seeing the board because you've been working on them all day)

 

[Byeelectric]

I got lucky and was working for a computer repair shop when they went our of business, so I was able to get a few nice tools for pretty cheap. Reflow oven included. You can make a simple reflow over out of a toaster oven. I have heard that works pretty good as long as you get a good brand one that you can trust the temp being pretty steady on.

Anyway I think your right about the voltage to gate issue because U5410 (INA213) I have voltage to the reference and voltage to the source but the drain isn't getting the full voltage only has 0.9v at best.

And then U5400 (INA213) I have voltage to the gate and the reference voltage but only .73v to the drain. I tried to find these to buy a new one and they are back-ordered for a while bot at digi-key and mouser. I was looking to see if I was wrong like maybe my gate voltages were wrong and that is why my drain wasn't right on both. Right next to these chips there was the corrosion from the water damage when I bought it. SMC also had some corrosion around it as well and I had to replace a few 402 packages around it to get a post on the macbook.

Thanks for looking for me but it seems anywhere you go and look for help people just say do a SMC Reset and if that don't work you need a logic board LOL I always laugh because it is like Geez I never thought about getting a new logic board and that would fix the problem Thanks for the help you know what I mean Like Apple support forums that is all you ever hear over there for a solution.

If you want to look into my problem here the board I am working on is a 820-2936-B K90i Mid-2011 MBP A1278 13" Thanks for your help so far and I hope I can get this fixed I have a few hundred tied up in the computer so far so I would like to see a return at some point

Did you try looking here? I always want service manuals but these are not complete so I will still look later, I have to go out on service calls.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/141976416/Apple-Macbook-Pro-A1278-K90i-820-2936

 

[Sheridansystems]

Oscilloscope recommendations please

Hello,
I'm new to the rework community. 5 successful BGA lifts. I have a few systems that need diagnostics with an oscilloscope. Digital preferred, easy to use, any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

 

[dellxps15]

i have a question to those that buy spare component for apple mainboard. i had a bad u7000 on a macbook pro, so ordered one from ebay ( store located in china) and got it for about 4 euros.
with the original one, i have removed it, try to solder back and removed it again. chip is like new.

with the one from china, i have solder it and it is like burn on the top, so

are these china shop selling fake isl chip ?

i see for example isl625: some shop sell 5€ each, while some shop 2€ each. that make a big difference. how to know if they are cheaper chip quality or just same as original?

im going to think i have to buy from digikey and spend that 30$ ship cost to get at least good quality.

any advice would be good.

 

[canzil]

i have a question to those that buy spare component for apple mainboard. i had a bad u7000 on a macbook pro, so ordered one from ebay ( store located in china) and got it for about 4 euros.

with the original one, i have removed it, try to solder back and removed it again. chip is like new.



with the one from china, i have solder it and it is like burn on the top, so



are these china shop selling fake isl chip ?



i see for example isl625: some shop sell 5€ each, while some shop 2€ each. that make a big difference. how to know if they are cheaper chip quality or just same as original?



im going to think i have to buy from digikey and spend that 30$ ship cost to get at least good quality.



any advice would be good.

Hey dellxps15 you remember my case? That one I need buy the EMC, well, I alive in Brazil and here don't have ebay and othes place to shop this electronic pieces, what I do: I buy from mouser, ship it to a friend in usa, then he ship it to me.
That way I don't need spend this value in ship.
But long wait! 40 days.

 

[canzil]

I just can not believe I ********* my mac again.
I was using it normally in those days, no battery, direct on magsafe connected to an external monitor, mouse and keyboard.
Believe should have given some light falloff, or harm in making contact and he hung up, well, I was not using and let off because it always to turn up I just connected the MagSafe and Mac initializing.
Today I went to start it, connected the MagSafe and nothing, only the cooler begins to spin and in 30 seconds it reaches a full speed, and nothing happens.

any help is welcome.

I just ordered new battery, glass and keyboard, waiting to arrive to replace me and this

 

[dellxps15]

Hey dellxps15 you remember my case? That one I need buy the EMC, well, I alive in Brazil and here don't have ebay and othes place to shop this electronic pieces, what I do: I buy from mouser, ship it to a friend in usa, then he ship it to me.
That way I don't need spend this value in ship.
But long wait! 40 days.

yes i remember your case. i havent many friend in the usa, so my last option is to spent those 30$ for a fast ship or make a 100$ order to get free ship but at least good component.

I just can not believe I ********* my mac again.
I was using it normally in those days, no battery, direct on magsafe connected to an external monitor, mouse and keyboard.
Believe should have given some light falloff, or harm in making contact and he hung up, well, I was not using and let off because it always to turn up I just connected the MagSafe and Mac initializing.
Today I went to start it, connected the MagSafe and nothing, only the cooler begins to spin and in 30 seconds it reaches a full speed, and nothing happens.

any help is welcome.

I just ordered new battery, glass and keyboard, waiting to arrive to replace me and this

as i said a m8 was using his mac normally and it wont boot annymore from a day to another.....


now i have a A1278 with a broken backlight fuse. hope to fix that way

for those familiar with macbook pro and unibody 13'', is it possible to make a picture of the mainboard with the most important component on it ?

i have a dead macbook pro from 2008-2009 and it wont boot annymore. no volt on some fuse.... but magsafe and psu are ok.



edit: just got my 2a fuse and they are 20 .. lol was written price for 1 so i bought 2 and instead they are 20 so maybe sellers forgot to say that 1 means 1 pack of 10 pieces....


edit2: just changed the fuse and backlight is back

 

[canzil]

yes i remember your case. i havent many friend in the usa, so my last option is to spent those 30$ for a fast ship or make a 100$ order to get free ship but at least good component.



as i said a m8 was using his mac normally and it wont boot annymore from a day to another.....


now i have a A1278 with a broken backlight fuse. hope to fix that way

for those familiar with macbook pro and unibody 13'', is it possible to make a picture of the mainboard with the most important component on it ?

i have a dead macbook pro from 2008-2009 and it wont boot annymore. no volt on some fuse.... but magsafe and psu are ok.



edit: just got my 2a fuse and they are 20 .. lol was written price for 2 so i bought 2 and instead they are 20 so maybe sellers forgot to say that 1 means 1 pack of 10 pieces....


edit2: just changed the fuse and backlight is back

Here is the pictures. May be when the keyboard and battery arrive I can do a smc/pram reset? But I believe it's not back work because the macbook doesn't start. Just the fan start and get a full speed in 30 sec.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y44htnob342gig/Photo 25-02-14 06 08 54 PM.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dbobcvr37zqj3nt/Photo 25-02-14 06 09 00 PM.jpg

 

[South657]

charging 6259

Help please any one 2011 macbook pro

My board is K90i I was testing the Isl 6259 and have found out that I have
.25 v on pin 17/18
.25 v pin 23
4 v pin3
3.3 v pin 14
16.5 v pin2 27&28
So I think 6259 is dead and will need to be replaced. I have read a lot about
6259 common problem?
As I will get 6259 replaced in a pro shop any other places to look on the board before I send it, if you think it would be worth changing other parts as well at the same time. As I do not have air rework tools yet.
I all ready got 6 of them (6259) in advance after taking hints from this thread thanks for that.

 

[South657]

South657;18823118]Help please any one 2011 macbook pro

My board is K90i I was testing the Isl 6259 and have found out that I have
.25 v on pin 17/18
.25 v pin 23
4 v pin3
3.3 v pin 14
5.02 v pin 20
16.5 v pin2 27&28
So I think 6259 is dead and will need to be replaced. I have read a lot about
6259 common problem? 12v in is the problem?
As I will get 6259 replaced in a pro shop any other places to look on the board before I send it, if you think it would be worth changing other parts as well at the same time. As I do not have air rework tools yet.
I all ready got 6 of them (6259) in advance after taking hints from this thread thanks for that.

 

[rewgupko]

G3hot

Does anyone know where u6990 (g3hot) is on the a1297 logic board?

 

[triplelucky]

What is the 820-XXXX number of the board?

 

[rewgupko]

what is the 820-xxxx number of the board?

820-2849-a

 

[triplelucky]

That should be a K17. I don’t have a board view for that. Maybe someone else does or you can get one on the bay for $3.99. Just search for laptop schematics over there and pick the one for $3.99

I don’t like dropping names so if you end up needing them you can find them there and they will email them to you.

 

[dellxps15]

hi, i have removed the u7000 that was bad soldered and the flux paste i used was a fake brand so left much waste on the board. as i said i have a short on the board that i have managed to spot in the coil 22 in the picture. it was causing a short in all the board capacitors. what is the direction ot that coil? chipset ?

in the 2 picture i have posted, can we just name all that 25 component so who has a A1278 can spot them easly without ask each time...?

as far as i know i only know the u7000 location..

i need to spot g3hot too to see if it is ok, but not sure if is the one i have marked.

any help wuld be appreciated

http://imageshack.com/a/img196/479/08x6.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img593/3628/qn4p.jpg

 

[warre]

Macbook Air 2011 A1369

Moving my question this to the mba forum

 

[r.deckard]

Hi!
congrats for this awesome thread!

I have a 1278 board (Mid2012) with water damage (cleaned with isopropyl)
Board boots using pads with both magsafe and battery, but the battery won't charge, led stays always bright green.
Can someone indicate me what can i try to do?
Really Thanks!!!

ps
2nd pic with damaged zone marked: