The Car Thread ... !

[2298754]

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/news/a31639/2018-ford-mustang-updates/

http://www.mustang6g.com/?p=10288

The most significant change is the potential removal of the V6 model from the Mustang lineup, as the body type codes for the V6 come up as invalid in the dealer system. Although the timing of this change may come as a surprise, it’s clear this has been years in the making with Ford having quietly laid the groundwork for the 2.3-liter EcoBoost to replace the 3.7-liter V6 model which has received noticeably few upgrades, options and packages in recent years.

Two expected changes that we’ve reported on extensively are given further credence — a dual exhaust option and 10-speed automatic which now appears in the options list, the first of which almost assuredly refers to the quad tip active exhaust system we’ve seen on some recent 2018 Mustang prototypes.

In a welcomed surprise, Ford also appears to be offering the option for MagneRide dampers on both the EcoBoost and Mustang GT which will bring it closer to the handling characteristics of the Shelby GT350.

Interestingly, the options list includes a “Performance Package 2” in addition to the usual GT Performance Package. This package suggests that Ford will offer a more track-focused package for the Mustang GT to more directly compete with the Chevrolet Camaro 1LE package.

Of note, the Shelby body code (P8J) shows up for the 2018 model year, in line with previous reports that the Shelby GT350 will continue for at least another year.

tl;dr?

No more V6 Mustang
10 speed auto
MagnaRide shocks

 

[quagmire]

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/news/a31639/2018-ford-mustang-updates/

http://www.mustang6g.com/?p=10288



tl;dr?

No more V6 Mustang
10 speed auto
MagnaRide shocks

Not surprising if true. Ford has become an EcoBoost whore( hey it sells, so it works) and the V6 was pretty much the rental special anyway.

But it sounds like the 2018 will be getting some much needed updates to it. Probably won't wait up for it to test drive it before I end up buying the Camaro, but it should be very competitive to the Camaro performance wise. Still bet Ford will still tune it to be more on the cruiser/comfort side( again not complaining per se because I bet that appeals to more people than the Camaro's performance oriented tuning), but will probably be more precise/tight than the current GT. Disappointed GM is being slow with the 10 speed auto on their end, but hopefully the SS gains it for the rumored 2019 refresh. I hope Ford isn't stringent on the performance package either. But with the 10 speed being positioned as a performance transmission, I don't see why the performance pack will be limited to the manual transmission still.

I wonder if the MagnaRide shocks will be included in the performance pack 2 , the regular performance pack, or be a separate option all together. I am betting on it being included in the PP2 package.


The ancient mobile( Challenger) should also be getting another refresh in 2018/2019 I believe.

 

[A.Goldberg]

Not sure if it's just the way the text is, but I sense some attitude. Please correct me if I am wrong. I'm not here to get into an argument over Vans shoes.

Yes, I should ditch them soon and wear some more adult-like shoes; but, for now, I like them because they are comfortable and practical. Also, I have fine arches - 10+ years of wearing these hasn't affected my feet in any way.

Nah, I don't like Converse because they're floppy, flimsy lace-up shoes. Also, they don't look good unless you wear long pants (which I rarely ever do).

My feet aren't growing as rapidly as before, but Vans have helped for when they did. After ditching my old Vans and putting on new ones of the same size, I'd realize that my feet had actually grown whilst I had the original pair - just hadn't noticed it because the old pair had stretched over time. (Otherwise, I am actually still growing...)

I have tried leather driving shoes before, actually. They look gay, to be honest. I could probably pull it off if I were a middle-aged man. Definitely won't be trying them on any time soon.

Lastly, I like riding my bike, and Vans shoes have proven to be the best sneakers for bike pedals. They're nice and flat on the underside. I've even hiked with Vans shoes, and I had no problems literally running over rough, rocky terrain with them. Their soles allow them to bend and wrap around a rock or bike pedal properly.

No, I did not mean to imply a sense of "attitude". Sorry if it came accross that way. I am not here to have a shoe debate either, just giving some man-man advice. Dressing like a freshman in HS while one college is not a good look. Fact: Whether you like it or not, how you present yourself determines how people perceive you, whether that be girls, peers, professors, people on the street, employers, etc

Are you saying you've been wearing the exact same pair of shoes for 10 years? That's not healthy. Needless to say you can add insoles to any pair of shoes. As for sizing, it's entirely possible you grew, but I wouldn't expect too much more growth. Keep in mind shoe sizes can vary from generation to generation. I have two pairs of Lacoste sneakers, same brand, same style. One is 11.0 the other is 10.5. Both fit the same.

Shoes are "Gay"? What are we 12? Seriously have some respect for your community. You don't know who is who here. Maybe go with some Sperry boat shoes or chukka boots if driving mic's aren't your speed. Men have been wearing leather shoes since the beginning of time.

Personally I don't think these look "Gay", whatever that means. The guys has a beautiful TR6 back there (bringing this back to cars). I will say I wouldn't be caught dead in a short sleeve plaid shirt. Nor would I wear pink with brown pants. Not a good look IMHO. Just focus on the shoes.

 

[2298754]

Lastly, I like riding my bike, and Vans shoes have proven to be the best sneakers for bike pedals. They're nice and flat on the underside.

Proven? How so?

This guy seems to have no issues biking in driving moccasins!

 

[D.T.]

P Zeros. I've never heard of PSSs lasting. They're a performance tire. Potenzas have been the stock Lexus tires here too for many years. They're a good grip soft compound, but they don't last very long. I've never heard of the other brand.

My P-Zeros were _poop_ and almost universally acknowledged as such, though there are variants even within the PZ product (like OEM specific, etc.)

My replacement rears are Conti DW Extremes.

Side note: the fashion critique in this thread is +hysterical+

 

[bunnspecial]

Personally I don't think these look "Gay", whatever that means. The guys has a beautiful TR6 back there (bringing this back to cars). I will say I wouldn't be caught dead in a short sleeve plaid shirt. Nor would I wear pink with brown pants. Not a good look IMHO. Just focus on the shoes.

And you would have to post a photo of a Triumph

BTW, what would you say to the 12 years I have on a set of Bass Weejuns(admittedly not every day, by a long shot). I'm about to have the 4th soles on them.

In any case, as regards to the tire discussion above, Vredistans have a good reputation in the British car community because they make reasonably priced tires in oddball sizes. I like the ones I've seen and have driven a few. There's a decent chance that's what going to go on my MGA since there are very few 165 width 15" tires around(or any size in a 165). I kind of wish I'd bough them for the MGB-they make a 165HR14 that's about the same price as the Yoko 185/70s I put on it.

With that said, putting them on an old sports car is one thing-any modern tire is going to be miles ahead of what the cars originally shipped with. I can't offer any opinions on modern cars.

The Pilot SSs are superb summer tires, although as said the tread life is poor on them. I had PS A/Ss for about 20,000 miles, and I'd be inclined to use those on a daily driver in place of the regular Pilot Sport. The regular Sports give up some wet traction, and have some very serious issues at lower ambient temperatures even on dry pavement. Get down to about 50ºF and you will start having problems, and below 40º they can be scary at least until they've had a chance to warm up. The "summer" designation doesn't just refer to weather conditions but also to operating temperatures.

I'm running Pirellis on the Lincoln now, in my case P7 Centuratos. They were a "budget" choice when I bought them(about $850 OTD vs. $1K for the PS A/Ss or the Bridgestone Turanzas I was replacing). After having a chance to get some miles on them, I can say that they're not at all bad tires but the dry grip is a bit worse than my Bridgestones and they are louder. I sort of wish I'd put up the extra cash for a set of Turanzas. I got an honest 35K out of mine, and probably could have lasted at least another 5K if I hadn't clipped a curb and bubbled one of them. They were quiet, and had good traction across the board(even passable in snow).

Given the choice, I'd probably choose the Bridgestones.

 

[A.Goldberg]

BTW, what would you say to the 12 years I have on a set of Bass Weejuns(admittedly not every day, by a long shot). I'm about to have the 4th soles on them.

A Triump seemed appropriate for the thread. Had the googler revealed driving shoes with an MG I would have posted that. Maybe you should pick up a pair for demonstration purposes.

I have the a large collection of the same brown classic Sperry Topsiders, increasing progressively in age. The older and more beaten up, the more comfortable. I think my oldest pair is probably 6 YO. After the "soles" (which barely exist in the first place) wore out I threw in some insoles, which have been replaced 2x. The foot guy I know says spenco are the way to go, and firm insoles work best.

 

[iLog.Genius]

Any recommendations for a 255/40/R18 non-runflats?

Michelin Pilot AS3.

 

[0388631]

Another dumb post. Interesting. What if they were Neiman Marcus leather loafers offered by Maserati?

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/news/a31639/2018-ford-mustang-updates/

http://www.mustang6g.com/?p=10288



tl;dr?

No more V6 Mustang
10 speed auto
MagnaRide shocks

Should help to run more people down, what do you think? I'm curious to see how the car will perform. Definitely worth taking a test drive soon and then once that hits the lots.

 

[D.T.]

Ford has an easy +25 to +50HP available to the Coyote, and I'm 98% sure there will be an across the product line bump.

For the Performance Package(s), if there are actually two PP options for the same model, i.e., the GT, (and it's not just the two PP "part numbers", one for the Ecoboost and one for the GT), I'd wager PP1 will be a non-power upgrade, like the current PP (with some additional handling tweaks), the PP2 will be even beefier suspension/brakes/cooling + power increase.

Also, Happy Thanksgiving

 

[determined09]

Proven? How so?

This guy seems to have no issues biking in driving moccasins!

This guy is dressed very nice with his driving moccassins.

 

[PowerMac G4 MDD]

No, I did not mean to imply a sense of "attitude". Sorry if it came accross that way. I am not here to have a shoe debate either, just giving some man-man advice. Dressing like a freshman in HS while one college is not a good look. Fact: Whether you like it or not, how you present yourself determines how people perceive you, whether that be girls, peers, professors, people on the street, employers, etc

Are you saying you've been wearing the exact same pair of shoes for 10 years? That's not healthy. Needless to say you can add insoles to any pair of shoes. As for sizing, it's entirely possible you grew, but I wouldn't expect too much more growth. Keep in mind shoe sizes can vary from generation to generation. I have two pairs of Lacoste sneakers, same brand, same style. One is 11.0 the other is 10.5. Both fit the same.

Shoes are "Gay"? What are we 12? Seriously have some respect for your community. You don't know who is who here. Maybe go with some Sperry boat shoes or chukka boots if driving mic's aren't your speed. Men have been wearing leather shoes since the beginning of time.

Personally I don't think these look "Gay", whatever that means. The guys has a beautiful TR6 back there (bringing this back to cars). I will say I wouldn't be caught dead in a short sleeve plaid shirt. Nor would I wear pink with brown pants. Not a good look IMHO. Just focus on the shoes.

View attachment 673945

I do think loafers are a bit flamboyant. (Although, I used the other word partially because I was being blunt. I had thought that you were jumping on me a bit with that previous post, but I now see that it wasn't your intention.) I don't see myself wearing them. My dad wears typically wears loafer/driving-style shoes without socks, while wearing shorts. I'm not really into the look - especially with my hairy legs and darker skin, and because I myself wear shorts. I've tried, and it was a disaster. With all due respect to anyone here, I personally don't want to be perceived as gay. Or, in the least, I don't want flamboyant attire. I don't have anything against gay people, but I'd rather not have this style. Trust me - it looks okay with others, but it looks VERY weird on myself.

With that being said, I also don't want to be perceived as childish (even though my short stature already does that), so I really AM looking for a new type of shoe to wear. (Haven't been wearing the same pair of shoes for 10+ years - I have worn Vans shoes, in general, for 10+ years - almost consecutively. I have had multiple pairs.) It won't be driving shoes, though, because I don't even drive while in college, and I am not into the look. I'll just look for more adult-like sneakers or something. Although, I still have a brand-new pair of Vans left, so I may still wear those until I can find a better-looking shoe. Luckily, a brand-new pair of Vans isn't bad. What I admittedly think makes me look more childish is the fact that my Vans are so beaten-up by the end of their lifetime.

PS: I bike every day, so I need sturdy, flat shoes for that. Vans, so far, have been great for biking, driving, hiking, etc. I need some shoes that are durable, sturdy, and also good for all that stuff.

 

[D.T.]

Wow, some great Black Friday sales at some of my vendors, think it's time to score a catch can, ~40% off plus I got points for another $10 off (though may get the points on the catch can and makes a second purchase)

*boom*

 

[quagmire]

Wow, some great Black Friday sales at some of my vendors, think it's time to score a catch can, ~40% off plus I got points for another $10 off (though may get the points on the catch can and makes a second purchase)

*boom*

Thinking about getting the Mishimoto catch can for the Camaro.... Just debating if it is worth it for a car that I am going to leave stock. Though I know DI engines have build up issues worse than port injected since no fuel washes the valves.

I went ahead and picked up these though....

Also debating on jack stands.... If I planned to do work under the car, I would just get ramps. But I also don't want the air valve to blow out in the middle of changing the tires and dumping the car body onto the ground. Will probably pick them up especially since they are only $20.

 

[iLog.Genius]

Thinking about getting the Mishimoto catch can for the Camaro.... Just debating if it is worth it for a car that I am going to leave stock. Though I know DI engines have build up issues worse than port injected since no fuel washes the valves.

I went ahead and picked up these though....

Also debating on jack stands.... If I planned to do work under the car, I would just get ramps. But I also don't want the air valve to blow out in the middle of changing the tires and dumping the car body onto the ground. Will probably pick them up especially since they are only $20.

I don't think you can go wrong with those essentials and if you're on the fence in getting jack stands, do it especially if you plan on doing any work.

 

[quagmire]

I don't think you can go wrong with those essentials and if you're on the fence in getting jack stands, do it especially if you plan on doing any work.

Probably will since they are cheap. If I do my own oil changes, would buy ramps for that. I only plan to jack the car up when it's time to change the tires when the seasons change. The concern of course being the valve blows out when a wheel is off the car, not so much me being under it.

Like I said, probably will in order to protect myself from the above scenario. $40 is cheaper than the cost to repair the body and suspension. Already ordered another mag pad to put on the second pinch weld and have it rest on the jack stand vs the pinch weld itself.

 

[bunnspecial]

I am NOT a fan of ramps. I feel much safer under a car supported by correctly placed jack stands than by ramps.

Aside from that, about the only use I really see for ramps is changing the oil or other fluids. There aren't a lot of other jobs you can do by supporting the car by the wheels.

With a good hydraulic jack, I can have the car up and on stands in the amount of time it takes me to get the ramps lined up correctly and drive up on them.

Used correctly, there is very little chance of causing body damage with jack stands. Most cars now have 8 or 10 designated support points for jacking or jack stands-they should be identified in the manual. For the front, the suspension A arms are generally a good location as long as you're not doing suspension work. The only real "no no" on IRS is not to jack by the differential like you can with a live axle. I have to remember that on the Lincoln since I have the MG up a lot more often and often will jack it by the differential and put the stands on the rear axle.

 

[quagmire]

I am NOT a fan of ramps. I feel much safer under a car supported by correctly placed jack stands than by ramps.

Aside from that, about the only use I really see for ramps is changing the oil or other fluids. There aren't a lot of other jobs you can do by supporting the car by the wheels.

With a good hydraulic jack, I can have the car up and on stands in the amount of time it takes me to get the ramps lined up correctly and drive up on them.

Used correctly, there is very little chance of causing body damage with jack stands. Most cars now have 8 or 10 designated support points for jacking or jack stands-they should be identified in the manual. For the front, the suspension A arms are generally a good location as long as you're not doing suspension work. The only real "no no" on IRS is not to jack by the differential like you can with a live axle. I have to remember that on the Lincoln since I have the MG up a lot more often and often will jack it by the differential and put the stands on the rear axle.

I don't plan on doing too much work myself. I've read on forums that some dealers are only putting in 6-8 quarts of oil in the car when the LT1 takes 10 quarts which of course gets me a bit paranoid. And oil changes are simple enough in theory that I can do them myself despite not being too mechanically inclined. Get the car on ramps( or jack stands), remove oil plug, let oil drain, remove oil filter( be careful about the seal staying on the car), install new filter( lining new seal with fresh oil and pre-filling it to let the filter absorb oil and reduce amount of oil starvation to engine), tighten oil plug, pour new oil in, start car and check for leaks, remove from ramp( jack stands), check oil level.

Basically only planning/thinking of doing my own oil changes and changing between the stock summer tires/rims and my winter tires/rims. Oil changes with ramps and tires with jack and jack stand. Car will remain stock.

I am probably way overthinking this whole thing. I know reading forums are more about becoming aware of what can happen and the common issues vs saying every dealer is under filling the oil, etc. And if the dealer does screw up, it's on them to fix it vs me paying someone to fix my screw ups. This car buying process has been exciting for me and nerve wrecking. When it came time buying my Saturn Aura, was buying it as soon as it came out so no current owners to read up on issues, didn't need to have two wheel setups, or thought about changing my own oil. Just went out bought it and took it to the dealer/trusted mechanic to do basic maintenance and the minor things that wore out in its 10 year life. It's been reliable. Where now I am doing extensive research on the Camaro and it is driving me nuts sometimes....

 

[bunnspecial]

don't plan on doing too much work myself. I've read on forums that some dealers are only putting in 6-8 quarts of oil in the car when the LT1 takes 10 quarts which of course gets me a bit paranoid. And oil changes are simple enough in theory that I can do them myself despite not being too mechanically inclined. Get the car on ramps( or jack stands), remove oil plug, let oil drain, remove oil filter( be careful about the seal staying on the car), install new filter( lining new seal with fresh oil and pre-filling it to let the filter absorb oil and reduce amount of oil starvation to engine), tighten oil plug, pour new oil in, start car and check for leaks, remove from ramp( jack stands), check oil level.

Perhaps I'm a bit jaded, but changing the oil is about a two out of 10 on the maintenance difficulty spectrum.

Don't get too caught up on the details. One of the other things I often do with jack stands is only jack up the side of the car opposite where the oil pan is to get some help from gravity in getting as much as possible out. To be fair, it's pretty darn hard to get everything. When the engine was out of my MG in September, we pulled the oil pan. There was maybe an ounce left in the pan, but the block was still dripping a little bit of oil even when we put the pan back on the next day. Overall it's not a big deal.

I tend to buy high quality filters. I usually get Motorcraft filters, which I think are made by Wix. I use them on everything, even non FoMoCo cars. I have also used Napa Gold and Purolator Pure-One, and have been happy with them also. The only gasket I've ever had come off with the orange can Fram filter that was on it(for who knows how long) when I bought the car.

With a quality filter that's not put on too tight(remember hand tight) a stuck gasket is unusual these days.

Also, I'm a bit anal in that I use a torque wrench to reinstall the drain plug. Many people get the plug too tight, and it's possible to strip the pan. I rarely replace the crush washer.

 

[0388631]

Jacks + wood blocks. I was thinking about worst case scenarios a few days ago. Terrible way to possibly die.

 

[bunnspecial]

Wood blocks are better than concrete blocks turned long way upright. Concrete blocks aren't designed to be loaded that way, and can easily crumble.

For the home mechanic, ramps and jack stands are the only realistic safe alternatives. I do know folks who have lifts and even rotisseries in their garage, although that's pretty unusual.

 

[A.Goldberg]

Probably will since they are cheap. If I do my own oil changes, would buy ramps for that. I only plan to jack the car up when it's time to change the tires when the seasons change. The concern of course being the valve blows out when a wheel is off the car, not so much me being under it.

Like I said, probably will in order to protect myself from the above scenario. $40 is cheaper than the cost to repair the body and suspension. Already ordered another mag pad to put on the second pinch weld and have it rest on the jack stand vs the pinch weld itself.

It never hurts to invest in quality tools. Buying some garbage jack for $15 made in China out of cheap metal and hydraulic components probably isn't a good idea. Buy a good jack, use it for a lifetime.

The only real "no no" on IRS is not to jack by the differential like you can with a live axle

Another no-no is not disabling air suspensions (and possibly magnetic suspensions- Quag you might want to look into that). Back in the early 2000's my dad took his RR for a tire rotation. The mechanic failed to keep the trunk open which is the function to disable the air suspension. Once you start jacking up under the car, even with it off, the suspension attempts to readjust and nearly "danced" of the jacks.

I am probably way overthinking this whole thing.

You definitely are. Oil changes are the easiest thing you can do short of maybe an air filter or battery. That is assuming they didn't design the oil change to be difficult. Once they start putting giant panels covering the engine bay that have to be removed, it can get very difficult without a lift. Hopefully their is either no belly panel or at least they provided a hole or flap for the oil drain.

 

[quagmire]

It never hurts to invest in quality tools. Buying some garbage jack for $15 made in China out of cheap metal and hydraulic components probably isn't a good idea. Buy a good jack, use it for a lifetime.

Yeah I bought a good floor jack( pictured last page). The Jack stands are what are cheap. They are in the $20-$40 range it appears.

Another no-no is not disabling air suspensions (and possibly magnetic suspensions- Quag you might want to look into that). Back in the early 2000's my dad took his RR for a tire rotation. The mechanic failed to keep the trunk open which is the function to disable the air suspension. Once you start jacking up under the car, even with it off, the suspension attempts to readjust and nearly "danced" of the jacks.

None of the videos mention disabling the magnetic suspension before jacking and they all have MRC on their Camaro's. Don't think the system is active if the car is turned off. Will definitely look into.

You definitely are. Oil changes are the easiest thing you can do short of maybe an air filter or battery. That is assuming they didn't design the oil change to be difficult. Once they start putting giant panels covering the engine bay that have to be removed, it can get very difficult without a lift. Hopefully their is either no belly panel or at least they provided a hole or flap for the oil drain.

No panels or anything. Already looked up videos of people doing their own oil changes on the 6th gen Camaro SS. Drain plug and oil filter are in very easy locations to get to.

When I was saying over thinking, I was talking about the whole thing, not just oil changes. There are two camps of how to properly break in the car, when to do the first oil change, whether to change the rear diff fluid at 1500 miles( due to a groaning noise coming from the rear diff when cold which changing the initial fluid fixes), and whether to put a catch can on the car.

 

[bunnspecial]

Honestly, on LS series engines with roller tappets I don't think break in is that critical. Pushrod engines do need a bit more care during break-in than overhead cams, but again roller tappets make it not that much of an issue.

I'd run the high zinc GM break-in oil(what I think is the factory fill on these) until the OLM tells you to change and then change it. It's your car, though. The big red flag to me would be dumping the factory fill and replacing it with a lower zinc "normal" oil before the tappets have bedded to the cam.

Be glad you won't have to worry about what I will when I drop the(rebuilt) engine in the MGA. The conventional advice with flat tappets is to use a break-in oil for 20 minutes of run time at 2-3K followed by a drain and fill then repeat after 200 miles.

As for the differential-most cars essential have a lifetime fill now, although at 150K I'm thinking it's probably about time in my LS. If changing it gives you peace of mind, go for it.

Another no-no is not disabling air suspensions (and possibly magnetic suspensions- Quag you might want to look into that). Back in the early 2000's my dad took his RR for a tire rotation. The mechanic failed to keep the trunk open which is the function to disable the air suspension. Once you start jacking up under the car, even with it off, the suspension attempts to readjust and nearly "danced" of the jacks.

I use to watch garages like a hawk when I would take my mom's Town Cars in for service. Fortunately they are common enough that most garages know to do it, but I've also gone running a few times. On Town Cars, you shut off the compressor via a switch in the trunk. I actually nearly bought a Town Car a few months back for next to nothing that had lost its airbag from jacking and then dropping the car. The bags are about $50, and a new compressor(if you need it) is $100 or so. The bag is about an hour to change.

 

[quagmire]

Honestly, on LS series engines with roller tappets I don't think break in is that critical. Pushrod engines do need a bit more care during break-in than overhead cams, but again roller tappets make it not that much of an issue.

I'd run the high zinc GM break-in oil(what I think is the factory fill on these) until the OLM tells you to change and then change it. It's your car, though. The big red flag to me would be dumping the factory fill and replacing it with a lower zinc "normal" oil before the tappets have bedded to the cam.

Be glad you won't have to worry about what I will when I drop the(rebuilt) engine in the MGA. The conventional advice with flat tappets is to use a break-in oil for 20 minutes of run time at 2-3K followed by a drain and fill then repeat after 200 miles.

As for the differential-most cars essential have a lifetime fill now, although at 150K I'm thinking it's probably about time in my LS. If changing it gives you peace of mind, go for it.

I don't think modern Small Blocks come with "break in" oil in it from the factory anymore. It's a Synthetic blend these days.