The Car Thread ... !

[A.Goldberg]

Yeah I bought a good floor jack( pictured last page). The Jack stands are what are cheap. They are in the $20-$40 range it appears.

Honestly the best place to by jackstands is a tagsale. Just like Christmas tree stands. Save a ton of money + Generally the old ones are 40lb blocks of cast iron. The new ones are thin crappy metal.

None of the videos mention disabling the magnetic suspension before jacking and they all have MRC on their Camaro's. Don't think the system is active if the car is turned off. Will definitely look into.

I presume the magnetic suspensions don't have an issue as I believe they generally just tighten or loosen the shock absorption if I'm not mistaken. Air suspension is a different game when you have 2-4"+ of play in the ride height.

Maybe practice changing the oil on your Saturn? It's not rocket science. Frankly though if your dealer has never messed up your Saturn, they probably won't mess up your new car. Generally different cars have different oil capacities, especially higher in higher performance cars. I wouldn't be too concerned. It's never a bad idea to check your oil level 1. regularly 2. after dealer oil changes to ensure proper maintenance. If they missed out on 2L of oil it wouldn't be hard to notice checking the oil which you should be doing anyways.

I think you're vastly over worrying about this. Just buy the car already and enjoy it!

 

[D.T.]

Thinking about getting the Mishimoto catch can for the Camaro.... Just debating if it is worth it for a car that I am going to leave stock. Though I know DI engines have build up issues worse than port injected since no fuel washes the valves.

I don't plan on doing too much work myself. I've read on forums that some dealers are only putting in 6-8 quarts of oil in the car when the LT1 takes 10 quarts which of course gets me a bit paranoid.

You sound like a candidate to just leave the car alone, drive it, use the dealer for service, all the ifs/ands/buts I'd backburner and just enjoy the ride when you actually get it

Honestly, on LS series engines with roller tappets I don't think break in is that critical. Pushrod engines do need a bit more care during break-in than overhead cams, but again roller tappets make it not that much of an issue.

Yep, the break-in stuff is way overblown, at the most, I'd short the max RPMs for maybe 250-300 miles, 500 at the _very_ most, maybe short the first oil change like 3K miles. Otherwise, drive the hell out of it. I base this not on the Internet, but on my C5, Z06, GT, X5 4.4i V8, Z3, all purchased new, all "broken in" the same way, no issues through their ownership, no oil issues, etc., and the Z06 I had on track at Roebling Road with under 1000 miles on it, driving it WAY harder than anything you can do on the street for about 300-400 miles, no problem

 

[D.T.]

Wow, some great Black Friday sales at some of my vendors, think it's time to score a catch can, ~40% off plus I got points for another $10 off (though may get the points on the catch can and makes a second purchase)

*boom*

Ordered.

 

[bunnspecial]

Yep, the break-in stuff is way overblown, at the most, I'd short the max RPMs for maybe 250-300 miles, 500 at the _very_ most, maybe short the first oil change like 3K miles. Otherwise, drive the hell out of it. I base this not on the Internet, but on my C5, Z06, GT, X5 4.4i V8, Z3, all purchased new, all "broken in" the same way, no issues through their ownership, no oil issues, etc., and the Z06 I had on track at Roebling Road with under 1000 miles on it, driving it WAY harder than anything you can do on the street for about 300-400 miles, no problem

At least with a flat tappets(my knowledge of rollers is minimal, since most of the engine building work I've been researching and planning is on one particular flat tappet engine) the suggestion for initial run in is 20-30 minutes of running at 3K or faster with minimal time spent at low RPMs. After that, you're advised to basically avoid prolonged idling and do as much driving as possible between 2K and 3K for the first 200 miles(then a drain and fill).

Like I said, though, that's very much old tech, and roller tappets don't really have to "bed" to the camshaft the way flat tappets do. It's just one of the things you get into when your hobby car(s) have engine designed in the 1950s that weren't exactly cutting edge at the time. If I'm not mistaken, the last Austin Minis made in 2000(which use the BMC A engine, a smaller block twin to the B series engine I'm messing with) still were using flat tappets and required periodic manual rocker clearance adjustment. That's saying something when you consider that a 1955 small block Chevy had self-adjusting hydraulic lifters.

 

[0388631]

I presume the magnetic suspensions don't have an issue as I believe they generally just tighten or loosen the shock absorption if I'm not mistaken. Air suspension is a different game when you have 2-4"+ of play in the ride height.

Electrically altered, I think, unless I'm confusing them with something else? Air suspension is nice until it fails and then it looks like you're being trying to be a badass with your 80K+ car slammed.

 

[A.Goldberg]

Electrically altered, I think, unless I'm confusing them with something else? Air suspension is nice until it fails and then it looks like you're being trying to be a badass with your 80K+ car slammed.

I figured magnetic suspensions used some sort of electromagnetic setup.

Air suspension is nice until it fails. The systems have come a long way over the years. Some brands seem to do better than others. Mercedes/Dodge/Jeep have a clever setup that uses the self contained nitrogen filled system to inflate, rather than outside air, to prevent moisture and other impurities from getting sucked in and prematurely degrading the system components.

I often cite my dad's P38 Range Rover as one of the most unreliable cars ever. So much that the cost of frequent trips to the dealer was the tipping point to sell, the car was still under warranty. That thing had a horribly designed system. In 2 years it had multiple sensors replaced only to turn out to be the the valveblock, and a couple airbags had to be replaced too. Once an airbag starts to leak slowly it over exerts the pump, thus burning it out. Add that to the list.

Most amusing about that car was it's god awful "chime" noise (for faults, seatbelt door open, headlights on, etc). With a blown suspension riding on bump stops the car will beep at you continuously over 35mph. It's hard to drive all the way to the dealer under 35mph.

The system sound was not a pleasent chime like a BMW or the newer Discoveries, rather what I can only describe as an amplified stall warning out of Sikorsky Blackhawk Helicopter (think of any movie where a helicopter is crashing and you hear the peizoelectric alarm rapidly sounding "honk honk honk honk honk".

In the helicopter, it means you're crashing. In the Range Rover, it's probably not just reminding you to fasten your seatbelt. (In fact the sound was so obtrusive my Dad eventually rewired the seatbelt to make it stop)
[doublepost=1480478033][/doublepost]@Zenithal

Here is what I'm talking about- first is the key or headlight on alarm, then the seatbelt reminder. Typical P38-era Range Rover not starting too.

 

[0388631]

Sounds awful. But nothing a loud stereo blaring the tunes of your favorite artist couldn't hide until you got to the dealership, or in your father's case, an actual stealership.

 

[A.Goldberg]

Sounds awful. But nothing a loud stereo blaring the tunes of your favorite artist couldn't hide until you got to the dealership, or in your father's case, an actual stealership.

The video doesn't do it justice. Plus there's like that 3 second delay of the radio booting up.

He kept it about 2 years. Lost 50% of the value on it. They it was under warranty so most all the BS was covered. It was the time bringing it to the dealer and putting up with catastrophic issues, and maybe the fact you were lucky to get a Discovery as a loaner back then, more often than not some garbage Freelander.

Traded it in for another Land Cruiser, much better car in terms of comfort, reliability, and resale. Now he has a '12 RR Sport. My Uncle had an '06 RRS/SC and had good luck. Almost 5 years and probably over 100k at this point, my father's has had very minimal issues. I just saw an article that Land Rover is ranked among the highest in resale. Times have certainly changed.

 

[quagmire]

You sound like a candidate to just leave the car alone, drive it, use the dealer for service, all the ifs/ands/buts I'd backburner and just enjoy the ride when you actually get it

Most definitely. Outside of my paranoia about the oil changes, my only real concern is the carbon/oil build up on the valves since it is a DI motor and it is going to be a long term car. If this was a lease or a short term car, wouldn't care. But since I plan to own the car for awhile, a $300 investment can save me more money by avoiding/reducing how many times I need to get the engine cleaned.

The two things holding me back doing the catch can is my confidence in doing the installation myself and how it will affect my warranty. GM has already tried to void a 5th gen Camaro owner's warranty due to the catch can( but that may be due to a scummy dealer too).

 

[D.T.]

Ordered.

Shipped

 

[2298754]

Reminds me of my old Quattroporte. What a hunk of junk.

@PowerMac G4 MDD, does your daddy's *Neiman Marcus Edition* QP do this too?

 

[0388631]

Reminds me of my old Quattroporte. What a hunk of junk.

Which begs me to inquire why you sought to purchase it in the first place?


Edit: Posted and 40 seconds later he likes the post. What dark magic do you hold?

 

[2298754]

Which begs me to inquire why you sought to purchase it in the first place?

Because it's a Maserati. Best interior plastics ever.

 

[D.T.]

My exhaust sounds fantastic. I mean, even better than it has up to this point. Breaking in more? Cold weather? Different sound due to the removal of the sound tube and/or addition of the intake/filter? Squirrels final got blown out? Something something magnets?

The gurble-burble of the 32v is so delicious, and so different from any of my Vettes (in various states of tune, stock Ti, various exhausts, headers, with/without cats, cam'ed).

 

[0388631]

I suspect that's why he bought his Maserati. The engines and exhausts sound nice. Especially the MC Stradale's. Cold weather makes most cars sound good. By most I mean cars worth looking at. Such as your Mustang. Though I suppose you eco-friendly neighbor's hybrid Camry will do just as well. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Sometimes they're buggered.

 

[D.T.]

I know the performance/effectiveness of a product is the +most+ important thing, but it's so nice to see a company step up in the aftermarket car parts industry in terms of their packaging. Got my PCV/catch can today from Mishimoto and the whole product is put together so well, starting with the packaging, everything nicely boxed separately, padded. The parts themselves look terrific as well: super clean machining and powder coating, nice OEM style connectors on the hoses - outstanding.

 

[JamesMike]

I know the performance/effectiveness of a product is the +most+ important thing, but it's so nice to see a company step up in the aftermarket car parts industry in terms of their packaging. Got my PCV/catch can today from Mishimoto and the whole product is put together so well, starting with the packaging, everything nicely boxed separately, padded. The parts themselves look terrific as well: super clean machining and powder coating, nice OEM style connectors on the hoses - outstanding.


View attachment 676772 View attachment 676773 View attachment 676774

How long will it take to install?

 

[D.T.]

How long will it take to install?

Looks super easy - when I was originally looking at these (and this brand in particular), I kept seeing people complaining about the install - then I realized it was the Ecoboost version with an outlet that's down in the deep dark, knuckle smashing trenches.

For the GT, the existing PCV hose is right on top, just pop off the engine cover (just a plastic cosmetic cover) and it's easily accessible. The bracket is actually a complete replacement for the passenger side radiator stay, very clever design (the existing bushing is transplanted).

I'm predicting < 30 minutes

 

[bunnspecial]

I know the performance/effectiveness of a product is the +most+ important thing, but it's so nice to see a company step up in the aftermarket car parts industry in terms of their packaging. Got my PCV/catch can today from Mishimoto and the whole product is put together so well, starting with the packaging, everything nicely boxed separately, padded. The parts themselves look terrific as well: super clean machining and powder coating, nice OEM style connectors on the hoses - outstanding.

That looks like a great kit. I've been turned off by a lot of aftermarket stuff by the generally poor quality, but tasteful aftermarket mods look great.

I'll look forward to seeing pictures when all is said and done.

All of this talk of catch cans recently in this thread has me wanting to install one on the MG. I've been doing battle with the factory crankcase ventilation system(it's not a PCV system, but rather just plumbs the crankcase vent directly into the carbs) but haven't hit on a solution that makes me totally happy. I've tried running a completely open system with the vacuum ports plugged and a breather on the vent, but I'm not happy with the oil loss that way. I COULD put together a draft tube and stuff some scouring pad in the top as an oil separator, but a catch can seems ideal.

Ultimately, I really just need to bite the bullet and do a ring job. Fortunately, I can do it with the engine in the car and most of the time will be waiting for parts(I need to measure the crank and cylinders before ordering new bearings).

 

[quagmire]

Another accessory I am contemplating is the ZL1addons front license plate bracket. It uses the front tow hook receiver instead of having to drill into the front bumper to mount a bracket that way. Issue is, if I am going to have the front end looks ruined by the damn license plate, would prefer it to be centered on the front. Will probably pick it up due the ease of install, not having to have holes drilled, etc and make the sacrifice of aesthetics.

 

[D.T.]

Oh, and some new kicks, since I know some of you guys love these

(DC not Vans )

 

[A.Goldberg]

Oh, and some new kicks, since I know some of you guys love these

(DC not Vans )

View attachment 676922

So much for the dressing like a high schooler comments in this thread

(D.T. You know I love you just the way you are)

 

[Suture]

I had a US Millworks towhook-mounted license plate bracket on my Golf R. A little pricey, but definitely well-built. Is that your Camaro? I love the blue.

 

[quagmire]

I had a US Millworks towhook-mounted license plate bracket on my Golf R. A little pricey, but definitely well-built. Is that your Camaro? I love the blue.

No, just a image of what it looks like. I'll be ordering my Camaro in 2-3 months. I love Hyper Blue too, but two factors against it. First, I am concerned about the long term of me liking the color. I love the color now, but will I get tired of it in 5 years? Second, I do want to blend in as much as possible and don't want to stand out. I just want to be able to drive and enjoy my car. I don't want idiots revving their engines at me trying to street race, stay under a cops radar as much as possible, etc. I am leaning towards nightfall gray metallic.

(Again not my car and would have the stock wheels)

 

[0388631]

Those HRE wheels or am I seeing the emblem incorrectly? Finally got an update for the airbag situation on the GL. "Sometime in 2017." Never have I wanted to strangle a person over the phone so much in my life as I did yesterday.