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I didn't all stock, automatic (live in Atlanta, GA - awful traffic!).
However, I'll be:
- getting Butler Tyre, to pain my calipers green (it will take two days)
- probably change my engine cover plates to green, too
- interior lights to be changed to LED
- swap the steering wheel for the racing one (with the flat bottom)

What do you think?
Also, currently, it is 435 HP, but, I'd like to increase it, BUT, not increase the exhaust noise (don't like them too loud and draw too much attention). Any ideas...? Thanks

Woah woah woah.... You bought a V8 powered pony car and you want it quiet and not hear that glorious 5.0 Coyote V8?

Your Prius is that way -----> :D

Just messing. Congrats on the purchase. Gray seems to be a popular color in this thread. Though the GT certainly fits the bill. Sounds good on the inside, but is quiet for a V8 on the outside stock at least. I keep the exhaust in track mode so the valves are open so I can hear the LT1 in all her glory. Not to show off or attract attention to myself, but I just love the sound. :) And same reason why I got my Camaro with the 8 speed automatic considering it is my daily driver and rush hour is brutal too in my area. Wasn't for that, would most definitely gone for a stick.

Did you consider the 2018 or just too good of a deal with the 2017?
 
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I thought about the 2018. However, so many stories about 2017 being the last 'true' 5.0 GT for a minute. And, Ford refuse to say how much HP on the new 2018. Honestly...!

Based on what you stated, I need to look into the different modes on the car (so much to learn).

PS: having the exhaust too loud in my neighbourhood, simply wouldn't go down too well...

Woah woah woah.... You bought a V8 powered pony car and you want it quiet and not hear that glorious 5.0 Coyote V8?

Your Prius is that way -----> :D

Just messing. Congrats on the purchase. Gray seems to be a popular color in this thread. Though the GT certainly fits the bill. Sounds good on the inside, but is quiet for a V8 on the outside stock at least. I keep the exhaust in track mode so the valves are open so I can hear the LT1 in all her glory. Not to show off or attract attention to myself, but I just love the sound. :) And same reason why I got my Camaro with the 8 speed automatic considering it is my daily driver and rush hour is brutal too in my area. Wasn't for that, would most definitely gone for a stick.

Did you consider the 2018 or just too good of a deal with the 2017?
[doublepost=1500094746][/doublepost]I felt green would be nice against the 'grey' colour of the car. Plus, so many people already have red calipers. Thanks


New Accord promo is up.


I did not expect a digital dash. It and the body creases plus the hood design makes me think they've copied Audi. This new design is pretty aggressive for a family sedan. Not as aggressive as the Camry.


Green? Why...

Weird suggestion, but see if the dealer offers caliper painting. My MBZ dealer offers it in their booth. The quality is top notch. I know some BMW and Japanese brands offer this, too. I had no idea you could get the GT in automatic.

Exhaust wise, you'll have to be careful so as not to void your warranty. See what Ford says about it or ask around. Ideally, you'll probably want an exhaust system with greater flow and probably a valve you can switch on or off, and probably set it to open up after a certain RPM; e.g. 4,500 RPM.
 
Hmm, not a bad idea. Sort of like a few Porches I've seen...

Yellow calipers or rather yellow highlights work great on gray.
[doublepost=1500096916][/doublepost]This image isn't my car, however, I was thinking this type green for the calipers...

green.jpg
 
Oh, that kind of green on the hood. I was imagining something very different. It's got contrast, but it doesn't make much sense to me visually.
 
I thought about the 2018. However, so many stories about 2017 being the last 'true' 5.0 GT for a minute. And, Ford refuse to say how much HP on the new 2018. Honestly...!

Based on what you stated, I need to look into the different modes on the car (so much to learn).

PS: having the exhaust too loud in my neighbourhood, simply wouldn't go down too well...

They felt the same way about the S550 originally back in 2014 when it was unveiled. Looked too european, looked like a Fusion, etc. The hardcore traditionalists can be their own worst enemy. Corvette traditionalists raged when the C6 ditched the flip up headlights and when the C7 ditched the round taillights. Can't imagine how hard they are going to rage when the mid-engine 'Vette is unveiled and if rumors are true will be having a DOHC engine instead of the traditional OHV Small Block V8.

The 2018 can be had with the dual mode exhaust as my Camaro SS has. Leave your neighborhood in normal( does the GT350 have a stealth mode) which would have the valves closed then once out, open those valves up and let that engine sing. :D

I expect the 2018 Mustang GT to have 455 HP given the teaser shots( the digital gauge cluster had it in 4th gear at 55 MPH).
 
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I didn't all stock, automatic (live in Atlanta, GA - awful traffic!).
However, I'll be:
- getting Butler Tyre, to pain my calipers green (it will take two days)
- probably change my engine cover plates to green, too
- interior lights to be changed to LED
- swap the steering wheel for the racing one (with the flat bottom)

What do you think?
Also, currently, it is 435 HP, but, I'd like to increase it, BUT, not increase the exhaust noise (don't like them too loud and draw too much attention). Any ideas...? Thanks

Howdy!

I have a '16 GT convertible, Perf Package (the tire above is going on that car), slowly getting less stock, so I can definitely answer your questions about tuning (this also being my Nth something performance car as well) :) I'm assuming you're on some Mustang specific forums, if not, sign up, www.mustang6g.com is fantastic, great technical resource, mostly friendly and helpful people - lots of events, sources for used and new parts, etc.

Like most modern engines, the current 5.0 is undertuned, under-exhausted, etc., to account for emissions (especially during startup), warranty, noise levels. Very light bolt-ons like an air intake (whether a full CAI type, or an aftermarket tube+filter) and an exhaust will gain only gain a touch of power. Where the 5.0 makes huge gains - relative to the effort/price - is in a tune. Most cars with an intake/exhaust/tune, are picking up a solid 40-50HP (they seem to average ~410 to the rear). Add long tube headers to that, and you're over 500HP (430+ RWHP), plus nice additional TQ, especially across the midrange. There are some "quiet" exhaust options, you'll just need to research some of the "touring" models, that tend to be near OEM quiet and can be managed via the throttle.

If you're squeamish about warranty concerns that might be introduced with an aftermarket tune, Ford offers warrantied performance packages:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/performance-packs/#m2016

Not as aggressive as aftermarket tuning, but kind of "no worry" :) Otherwise, there's a HUGE option for tuning from Lund, Steeda, LMR, Livernois, and dozens of outstanding smaller shops you'll have to research in your area (I use one of the best in southeast, who happens to have a shop 5 miles away).

From there you can get as radical as your wallet will support: GT350 / Boss intake manifolds / TBs, for a full tilt NA build, or what the 5.0 really loves: forced induction :D A buddy of mine just turned his own wrenches on a supercharger install, a SL2200 Paxton kit, did it over the weekend, running 130+ MPH in the 1/4!

With a base GT, I'd also look into some suspension, again Steeda can help, along with companies like BMR. Aftermarket springs (for both handling improvements AND aesthetics, stock cars look like trucks ...), swaybars, endlinks, cradle kits, bushings, etc., lots of things that make a big visual difference like aftermarket wheels, but also affect performance.

Anyway, congrats, have fun!
 
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Howdy!

I have a '16 GT convertible, Perf Package (the tire above is going on that car), slowly getting less stock, so I can definitely answer your questions about tuning (this also being my Nth something performance car as well) :) I'm assuming you're on some Mustang specific forums, if not, sign up, www.mustang6g.com is fantastic, great technical resource, mostly friendly and helpful people - lots of events, sources for used and new parts, etc.

Just don't mention Camaro on there or you'll be swarmed and surrounded by a pack of hungry wolves. :D

It's one thing to have a friendly rivalry, but I think these people on mustang6g and camaro5/camaro6 take the fun out of it with how nasty they can be to the competition. But, there can be a lot of helpful people on there as well when it comes to modifications for these cars and can be a great resource.
 
Just don't mention Camaro on there or you'll be swarmed and surrounded by a pack of hungry wolves. :D

Actually, it's one of the more receptive forums I've encountered, and I've been on car forums for a _long_ time (that includes car BBS via something most of you kids haven't seen ... a modem :D), where all the rivalries are present: Ford v. Chevy, Corvette v. Viper, Domestic v. Import, Supra v. Everyone ... :D

At any rate, I don't participate in forums that aren't the namesake of the current vehicle I own, I've never understood why an X owner would want to lurk around a Y forum, the whole "friendly rivalry" spin is just an excuse to come bang their chest. Seriously people, go learn how to drive your car, or do something constructive - if I wanted to talk about X, I'd buy one and sign up on your forum :D
 
Thanks for the feedback and direction...!

Howdy!

I have a '16 GT convertible, Perf Package (the tire above is going on that car), slowly getting less stock, so I can definitely answer your questions about tuning (this also being my Nth something performance car as well) :) I'm assuming you're on some Mustang specific forums, if not, sign up, www.mustang6g.com is fantastic, great technical resource, mostly friendly and helpful people - lots of events, sources for used and new parts, etc.

Like most modern engines, the current 5.0 is undertuned, under-exhausted, etc., to account for emissions (especially during startup), warranty, noise levels. Very light bolt-ons like an air intake (whether a full CAI type, or an aftermarket tube+filter) and an exhaust will gain only gain a touch of power. Where the 5.0 makes huge gains - relative to the effort/price - is in a tune. Most cars with an intake/exhaust/tune, are picking up a solid 40-50HP (they seem to average ~410 to the rear). Add long tube headers to that, and you're over 500HP (430+ RWHP), plus nice additional TQ, especially across the midrange. There are some "quiet" exhaust options, you'll just need to research some of the "touring" models, that tend to be near OEM quiet and can be managed via the throttle.

If you're squeamish about warranty concerns that might be introduced with an aftermarket tune, Ford offers warrantied performance packages:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/performance-packs/#m2016

Not as aggressive as aftermarket tuning, but kind of "no worry" :) Otherwise, there's a HUGE option for tuning from Lund, Steeda, LMR, Livernois, and dozens of outstanding smaller shops you'll have to research in your area (I use one of the best in southeast, who happens to have a shop 5 miles away).

From there you can get as radical as your wallet will support: GT350 / Boss intake manifolds / TBs, for a full tilt NA build, or what the 5.0 really loves: forced induction :D A buddy of mine just turned his own wrenches on a supercharger install, a SL2200 Paxton kit, did it over the weekend, running 130+ MPH in the 1/4!

With a base GT, I'd also look into some suspension, again Steeda can help, along with companies like BMR. Aftermarket springs (for both handling improvements AND aesthetics, stock cars look like trucks ...), swaybars, endlinks, cradle kits, bushings, etc., lots of things that make a big visual difference like aftermarket wheels, but also affect performance.

Anyway, congrats, have fun!
 
Actually, it's one of the more receptive forums I've encountered, and I've been on car forums for a _long_ time (that includes car BBS via something most of you kids haven't seen ... a modem :D), where all the rivalries are present: Ford v. Chevy, Corvette v. Viper, Domestic v. Import, Supra v. Everyone ... :D

At any rate, I don't participate in forums that aren't the namesake of the current vehicle I own, I've never understood why an X owner would want to lurk around a Y forum, the whole "friendly rivalry" spin is just an excuse to come bang their chest. Seriously people, go learn how to drive your car, or do something constructive - if I wanted to talk about X, I'd buy one and sign up on your forum :D

I didn't mean it as a Camaro person goes on Mustang6, but whenever there was a Camaro vs Mustang comparison, and if the Camaro won the complaining was endless and if a mustang owner came in and gave the Camaro any kind of credit, they get jumped on. It's the same with the latest Motortrend comparison of the ZL1 vs the GT350R. The Camaro guys on camaro6 non-stop complaining why the GT350R won the comparison when the ZL1 was only .4 I believe it was seconds faster around the track. These guys are incapable to giving the other car any credit where credit is due.

But that can be said for any fanboy based forums. Bimmerpost is the same way as well. Mention Camaro and/or Mustang on there and the American car stereotypes start flying.
 
*boom*

That all came together, other front OFD today, the rears scheduled for Monday, and at the last minute I decided to score some new OEM TPMS sensors (so I could M&B independent of breaking down the existing wheels/tires), got them from a recommended source on FleaBay, just checked - originally estimated for the 21st, but will be here Monday - so nothing outstanding next week to get these ready.

Shopping lug nuts :cool:
 
I'm a member of two car fora-the MG Experience and the Lincoln LS Owners Club, and am more active at the former.

Almost everyone on the MG experience owns other makes of cars(almost no one DDs an MG these days) and even though they aren't discussed that often there's no real bashing of other makes. Triumphs are the exception :)

The LS Owners Club has become a bit of an "orphan" forum and not that many of the regulars even have LSs anymore. It's actually become a decent reference place for the MKZ since a lot of folks moved on to one after their LSs reached EOL(albeit there are still LSs on there trucking along with 300K+ on the clock-so much for the supposed ticking time bomb that these cars are). The MKZ was the intended replacement, although admittedly about the only thing it has in common is the star on the grille and the size. Still, it's been a good reference to me as I've made the MKZ "mine."

BTW, on a different note, I still have my LS. I had a couple of potential buyers that didn't come through, so I'd delayed getting it to the junkyard. After really spending some time diagnosing it, though, I'm actually reopening the thought of fixing it. The only mechanical issue keeping it from being driveable is a broken Tstat housing-the radiator is actually fine. Even at that, the Tstat housing apparently just has some hairline fractures-I can't see them, but I can see coolant spraying when it's pressurized(it doesn't leak when not pressurized).

In any case, I've crunched some numbers again with that $30 part in mind, and I think I can probably get it on the road again and looking good for $1K or a little over. On one hand, that's a lot of money to spend on a nearly 15 year old car, but on the other hand I WANT another one of these days and I feel like it's better to have MY car with a known service history.

BTW, my "high compression" MG engine is really settling down nicely. I've put about 200 miles on it, so I need to go through and reset the valve lash to account for the valves settling into place and new tappets wearing in. I've noticed the valve train getting a bit noisier-these engines always make some valve noise, but I've had people tell me to "put some oil in that engine" with the amount of noise it's been making lately. That tells me that it's moved out of spec and that I just need to tighten them to spec-a 10 minute job.
 
Oh I remember the days of BBS and Usenet. Good times. Great for finding informative material and decent entertainment in those days, if you catch my drift. We've gone from print to digital access to a few clicks away. Amazing.

Anyway, car forum wise I'm a member to several Merc forums and detailing forums. Rarely post on the latter, just keep myself active to snatch up promo codes. I've been a member of the Vortex forums since the early 2000s, the same goes for automotiveforums.com, a couple Mazda and Honda sites, Club Lexus, etc. The list goes on. I'm only active on a few now. Even served as mod for a couple a long time ago.

I feel that forums, while not as popular as before, will continue to last even while sites like Reddit keep chugging along and gaining more users. I've tried to get into it for a few years but it's rather stupid and the UI is a pain in the ass. Never owned a VAG vehicle but the Vortex site is very active and very friendly. I can count on one hand the number of jackasses that have come and gone there. I can count numerous people for the Merc sites. I did sign up for Rennlist to look at the deals there, but the discussion there can either be offputting or very interesting. Usually it's a giant circle jerk.

I've learned more tricks/hacks for my cars from forums than anywhere else.
 
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In any case, I've crunched some numbers again with that $30 part in mind, and I think I can probably get it on the road again and looking good for $1K or a little over. On one hand, that's a lot of money to spend on a nearly 15 year old car, but on the other hand I WANT another one of these days and I feel like it's better to have MY car with a known service history.

I had a feeling you were going to keep the LS and fix her up. I know how you are about parting with things. ;)

You can't let your baby Ellis (LS phonetically) go to the firey furnace. You'd be no better than Mr. Coggins. You'd be a MURDER'AH.

(I believe that's my 2nd reference to Chitty Chitty Bang Bang in this thread). No I am not drunk at 6AM, I just did not sleep last night.
 
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I got another tire in - it's like I'm buying a car a part at a time via mail order :D
Not sure if you're old enough to remember the magazines of yesteryear, but you could order parts for a kit car back in the day. You can order an entire kit in whole now, though.
 
Not sure if you're old enough to remember the magazines of yesteryear, but you could order parts for a kit car back in the day. You can order an entire kit in whole now, though.

I sure do. I think it's why I also appreciate retro-rod type cars, the really clever engineering to get modern running gear into an ol' school chassis. I have a couple of friends that built full packaged kit cars, a Cobra replica and another guy put together a Factory 5 that he actually tracked (I was at an event with him in Sebring).
 
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I sure do. I think it's why I also appreciate retro-rod type cars, the really clever engineering to get modern running gear into an ol' school chassis. I have a couple of friends that built full packaged kit cars, a Cobra replica and another guy put together a Factory 5 that he actually tracked (I was at an event with him in Sebring).
I want a Factory 5 "Cobra." There's something very special about driving a car loud enough to destroy your eardrums. :D
 
I had a feeling you were going to keep the LS and fix her up. I know how you are about parting with things. ;)

You can't let your baby Ellis (LS phonetically) go to the firey furnace. You'd be no better than Mr. Coggins. You'd be a MURDER'AH.

(I believe that's my 2nd reference to Chitty Chitty Bang Bang in this thread). No I am not drunk at 6AM, I just did not sleep last night.

You're right, Ari, sometimes I don't want to let things go :)

In all seriousness, I'm kind of looking at doing "phase 1" and "phase 2" repairs on it.

Phase 1 would be fixing the coolant leak and possibly chaining the car to a tree or using some other "backyard" method to pull the front cross member straight. The coolant leak repair alone would make it completely mechanically driveable. Also as part of phase 1, I'd replace the driver seatbelt, passenger airbag, windshield, and dashboard. That would give me a safe car, and I can bandaide up the cosmetic stuff while I gather parts. The cost there would be $400 or so, with me doing everything but the windshield replacement myself.

Phase 2 would be finding a hood, bumper cover, and all other mechanically damaged parts. If I'm lucky, I'll find the hood and bumper cover color-matched. If not, I'll have my MG guy paint them and then I'll probably install them. I'd also have my MG guy do any frame straightening needed, and of course either have him or a tire shop do an alignment. The parts cost there should be under $100, although labor would be expensive when it comes to paint and possible frame work. Still, it's probably $600 total.

That would mostly have it back to correct. The one lingering thing I'd want would be to replace the A/C condenser for my own peace of mind. It's functional and tight(I don't know if I would have been able to do as much as I did inside the car last week without the A/C running) although it's badly bent. I think the part is $100 or so, and then I'd take it to my regular mechanic(who rebuilt the A/C last year) to install it and do a pump down/recharge on the system. Assuming the labor isn't TOO high to replace the condenser(it's right at the front of the car and held down with 4 bolts) it would probably be $100-150 for him properly vent, replace, and then recharge the system.
 
You're right, Ari, sometimes I don't want to let things go :)

In all seriousness, I'm kind of looking at doing "phase 1" and "phase 2" repairs on it.

Phase 1 would be fixing the coolant leak and possibly chaining the car to a tree or using some other "backyard" method to pull the front cross member straight. The coolant leak repair alone would make it completely mechanically driveable. Also as part of phase 1, I'd replace the driver seatbelt, passenger airbag, windshield, and dashboard. That would give me a safe car, and I can bandaide up the cosmetic stuff while I gather parts. The cost there would be $400 or so, with me doing everything but the windshield replacement myself.

Phase 2 would be finding a hood, bumper cover, and all other mechanically damaged parts. If I'm lucky, I'll find the hood and bumper cover color-matched. If not, I'll have my MG guy paint them and then I'll probably install them. I'd also have my MG guy do any frame straightening needed, and of course either have him or a tire shop do an alignment. The parts cost there should be under $100, although labor would be expensive when it comes to paint and possible frame work. Still, it's probably $600 total.

That would mostly have it back to correct. The one lingering thing I'd want would be to replace the A/C condenser for my own peace of mind. It's functional and tight(I don't know if I would have been able to do as much as I did inside the car last week without the A/C running) although it's badly bent. I think the part is $100 or so, and then I'd take it to my regular mechanic(who rebuilt the A/C last year) to install it and do a pump down/recharge on the system. Assuming the labor isn't TOO high to replace the condenser(it's right at the front of the car and held down with 4 bolts) it would probably be $100-150 for him properly vent, replace, and then recharge the system.

I know it's your nature Benji.

Did you have collision insurance on it? I didn't realize you had airbag and subsequent dashboard issues. A lot to do but most of it I suppose you could handle yourself. I assume you acquired Papa Ben's Lincoln?

I can understand your attachment to the car, but two car projects (especially one being British) does sound like a lot of work. If I were in your shoes my decision would probably most hinge on the level of insurance reimbursement.
 
As the fastest and most powerful street-legal 911 ever produced, the 2018 Porsche 911 GT2 RS produces 700 horsepower and 553 pound-feet of torque from a 3.8-liter twin-turbo flat-six engine and tips the scales at 3,241 pounds (1,470 kilograms) with a full tank of fuel. The result is a zero-to-60 mph time of 2.7 seconds, with a top speed of 211 mph (340 km/h). As previously reported, the powerplant is paired to a seven-speed PDK transmission.


Duh, can't find that originally article, so here's another:

http://www.thedrive.com/news/12265/...t-208-mph-on-the-nurburgring-mark-webber-says

And a photo :cool: 3200 lbs, wow.




0-60 time ... hahaha, what is this? A Tesla?
 
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