any of you car owners DIY?
Let's see...
The last time I had the MG out(last week) it was running pretty badly with almost no acceleration until I got it to 2-3K RPMs and it wouldn't idle at stop lights. I got it home, and when I did I pulled out the timing light to check out the ignition(ignition before carburetors, always). A quick check showed that the timing was correct(32º BTDC max advance, vac disconnected), but I wasn't done checking it out. Since the timing light is as good of a way as any to check for misfires, I went down the line and found that it wasn't sparking on cylinders 3 and 4. A little bit further investigation showed that the wires would spark off a head stud, but for whatever reason the plugs weren't firing.
Fast forward to yesterday, which was the first chance I'd had to dig into it. What I found was that I was running rich on all four plugs, but 3 and 4 were especially badly fouled. I cleaned them up a bit and initially they worked, but they they also loaded up again really quickly.
So, after leaning out both carbs a bit, but the rear one more than the front, I threw a new set of plugs on it for good measure(I use good old fashioned non-precious-metal NGKs, so I'm not going to lose too much sleep over $2 each). Unfortunately, at that point, my battery decided it had had enough. By my count it's at least 9 years old(I've owned the car for 3 1/2 years, the previous owner had it 5, and it's the same battery that was on it when he bought it) so I'll need to go pick up a fresh one. I'd also misplaced my jump pack, and the battery location makes jump starting really, really difficult, so I decided to call it quits. I decided to go out and pull the battery off before work this morning, but it was being stubborn-so it looks like my trip to the parts store will also involve buying a battery terminal puller.
One other thing-when I was checking everything out last week, I did a quick check of the vac advance unit. The "quick check" involves sucking on the hose and seeing if it holds vacuum. Unfortunately, I met no resistance on that. A little bit closer of a look showed that apparently the cast iron heater pipe that runs on top of the valve cover had melted through a portion of the plastic vac advance pipe. I cut back the melted portion, but the pipe was now to short to reach the carburetor. I patched it back together with a short piece of Tygon tubing, but I need to add a replacement pipe onto my next order. I did, however, go through and check out the vac advance with my Mityvac and dialback light and it SEEMS to be working(it advances the appropriate amount with the correct amounts of vacuum, at least).
In my time owning the car, I've had the head off twice, which on the first occasion included increasing the compression ratio and a bit of creative engineering to get what should have been a bolt-on swap working correctly. I've also had the engine and transmission out, fitted a replacement transmission, and of course did a lot of "might as wells" while doing that job(clutch, motor mounts, etc). The rings are on their last legs, so I'm going to rebuild a spare bottom end with a small amount of overbore(.020" over, which won't appreciably increase the displacement-it's for wear) and of course a somewhat hotter camshaft. It's going back together with a factory 4 speed w/electric overdrive-a really nice upgrade to the car that lets you cruise at 70 at 3K rather than 4K rpms.