The Car Thread ... !

[YoitsTmac]

Are these all dealer rates?

A factory brake job on my BMW is about $300 in parts on the high end (front axle). My BBK is about $750 in parts. These are OE, not some sketchy eBay brand.

My mom has a CPO 4 series and her brakes were $650 or so in California at an independent BMW shop.

My ex had a 2011 Mini and we DIYed with OE parts for under $250.

I’ve also done 35,000 miles on my BMW and it’s cost me, maybe, $600 in necessary maintenance. My mom’s brake job is the only maintenance she’s had to do after 30,000 miles as well. YMMV.

 

[AlaskaMoose]

Are these all dealer rates?

A factory brake job on my BMW is about $300 in parts on the high end (front axle). My BBK is about $750 in parts. These are OE, not some sketchy eBay brand.

My mom has a CPO 4 series and her brakes were $650 or so in California at an independent BMW shop.

My ex had a 2011 Mini and we DIYed with OE parts for under $250.

I’ve also done 35,000 miles on my BMW and it’s cost me, maybe, $600 in necessary maintenance. My mom’s brake job is the only maintenance she’s had to do after 30,000 miles as well. YMMV.

Labor is quite expensive in Alaska. Napa Auto Parts (rotors and pads) do not cost as much as Toyota's. I had the brake-job performed by an independent mechanics shop (I know the owner). $600.00 to $700.00 for 4 rotors and 4 sets of pads is just about average. The warranty covers the parts for 3 years/36,000 miles. Labor can be anywhere from $150.00 to $180.00 per hour. If I take my Tundra truck to a shop for an oil & filter change the cost could be around $125.00. A Toyota filter costs around $6.00, but 8 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-20 should cost somewhere around $57.00. The mechanic would take about 15 minutes, while I take twice as long.

But If I do the work myself I buy 2 gallons of oil, use 8 quarts, and leave the rest for the following oil change. In this case for the next oil change all I need is one gallon of oil and one filter. I spend somewhere around $57.00-$64.00. Since I don't drive the truck and cars very much, I replace oil once per year.

 

[The-Real-Deal82]

Labor is quite expensive in Alaska. Napa Auto Parts (rotors and pads) do not cost as much as Toyota's. I had the brake-job performed by an independent mechanics shop (I know the owner). $600.00 to $700.00 for 4 rotors and 4 sets of pads is just about average. The warranty covers the parts for 3 years/36,000 miles. Labor can be anywhere from $150.00 to $180.00 per hour. If I take my Tundra truck to a shop for an oil & filter change the cost could be around $125.00. A Toyota filter costs around $6.00, but 8 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-20 should cost somewhere around $57.00. The mechanic would take about 15 minutes, while I take twice as long.

But If I do the work myself I buy 2 gallons of oil, use 8 quarts, and leave the rest for the following oil change. In this case for the next oil change all I need is one gallon of oil and one filter. I spend somewhere around $57.00-$64.00. Since I don't drive the truck and cars very much, I replace oil once per year.

Wow, I had discs and pads on my Audi A4 back in October and it cost me £192 including labour and VAT.

People here saying BMW’s need new discs and pads at 3 years need to consider the style of driving and the location. If you live in a flat area then this won’t be the case and I know from experience the 3 year rule doesn’t apply in every case.

 

[Apple fanboy]

Wow, I had discs and pads on my Audi A4 back in October and it cost me £192 including labour and VAT.

People here saying BMW’s need new discs and pads at 3 years need to consider the style of driving and the location. If you live in a flat area then this won’t be the case and I know from experience the 3 year rule doesn’t apply in every case.

Driving style will have a big effect on brake longevity.
On my BMW i3 it gives you stars 1-5 for driving style. You get them for anticipation and acceleration.
I rarely get less than 5 for anticipation. Not far off that for acceleration.
Helps with the wear and tear of tyres as well as brakes. And fuel efficiency.

 

[vipergts2207]

I have no concern whatsoever doing a road trip. When I need a charge I just hit that find me a charger button, and within the time it takes me to visit the WC and grab a drink the car is ready for the next leg.

A little 4,000 Km road trip, all EV. No problem whatsoever.

View attachment 2330522

Not sure how long it takes you to go to the bathroom, but from what I’m reading a Tesla Supercharger will need 15-25 minutes for a charge. The 15 minutes isn’t terrible, but I certainly don’t want to be stuck waiting around for close to half an hour for a “fill up.” This also assumes there isn’t a wait to get on a charger. This isn’t to say an EV will run into issues on every road trip, but it’s something I don’t even need to consider in an ICE vehicle.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

Not sure how long it takes you to go to the bathroom, but from what I’m reading a Tesla Supercharger will need 15-25 minutes for a charge. The 15 minutes isn’t terrible, but I certainly don’t want to be stuck waiting around for close to half an hour for a “fill up.” This also assumes there isn’t a wait to get on a charger. This isn’t to say an EV will run into issues on every road trip, but it’s something I don’t even need to consider in an ICE vehicle.

I'm not sure whether you have ever charged an EV, but that isn't really how it works. And when I mentioned that duration, that is inclusive of everything, not just sit on there to do a number 2

You know, take a typical motorway service station, say when driving from Lago di Garda in Italy to the Côte d'Azur. Ionity only costs me 30 cents so I prefer those. https://www.google.com/maps/place/I...9591722!4d8.134168!16s/g/11j9mg877_?entry=ttu

As per a road trip, your car is full, wife, and child(ren), dog etc. with you. You don't go to a petrol filling place and wait with the vehicle, boom, immediate time saved. You park in a charging bay, and get out and plug the car in immediate. The car is charging already before the children are even out and huff and puff about how hot it is!

So realistically, by the time everyone is out and ready to walk to the service building, the car is already charging for five minutes or so.

Then you go in, got to find the toilets (its a road trip right, they are all in different places and you typically haven't been there before). I get done in a few minutes with handwashing and drying, wait for the wife and children who are doing god knows what.

Then you get you coffee's, iced machiatto green mache whatever thingies, etc. Wait for them to be made, and pay.

Then walk to the vehicle. And everybody gets back in again.

Yes, a typical stop easily has the car charged up again.

And that is when people are non-smokers. If one is a smoker you can add another 7 minutes to you stop.

And remember, you don't have to wait with your vehicle to charger it unlike Petrol/Diesel. Nor go to a separate queue to pay for fuel. Nor after filling up parking it up again.

Your experiences may differ, but nope a typical stop on motorway services when on a roadtrip is easily 20-30 minutes. No problem at all for a car to be charged sufficiently to do it all again in 3 hours

And yup, we really were there. This is no fiction, just real life. BTW We were there from the UK, and the other Polestar was from Sweden. People road trip in EVs everyday

 

[JoeG4]

Things like minimal interior colors, and minimal parts help. Look at a Tesla door panel and then a BMW X3 door panel. It’s why Tesla can be so competitive on price lately as well.

The BMW panel looks a lot nicer though. Of course it costs more!

And yup, we really were there. This is no fiction, just real life. BTW We were there from the UK, and the other Polestar was from Sweden. People road trip in EVs everyday

That green looks AWESOME! I have yet to see one of those here in any other color but white.

In Brooklyn NY (where I work), I am seeing more and more Amazon Rivian EVs.

Here is one from a few months back:

What's really weird is where I live (somewhere in southern california), amazon is still using gas vans and trucks. But Walmart uses EVs. Fedex also uses EVs (from two different companies). UPS has a few random EVs lol. But not many.

 

[sunapple]

I'm not sure whether you have ever charged an EV, but that isn't really how it works. And when I mentioned that duration, that is inclusive of everything, not just sit on there to do a number 2

You know, take a typical motorway service station, say when driving from Lago di Garda in Italy to the Côte d'Azur. Ionity only costs me 30 cents so I prefer those. https://www.google.com/maps/place/IONITY+Charging+Station/@43.9585254,8.1334948,277m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x12d25daf24afddb1:0x7a44b7a3f9cf24ab!8m2!3d43.9591722!4d8.134168!16s/g/11j9mg877_?entry=ttu

View attachment 2330640

As per a road trip, your car is full, wife, and child(ren), dog etc. with you. You don't go to a petrol filling place and wait with the vehicle, boom, immediate time saved. You park in a charging bay, and get out and plug the car in immediate. The car is charging already before the children are even out and huff and puff about how hot it is!

So realistically, by the time everyone is out and ready to walk to the service building, the car is already charging for five minutes or so.

Then you go in, got to find the toilets (its a road trip right, they are all in different places and you typically haven't been there before). I get done in a few minutes with handwashing and drying, wait for the wife and children who are doing god knows what.

Then you get you coffee's, iced machiatto green mache whatever thingies, etc. Wait for them to be made, and pay.

Then walk to the vehicle. And everybody gets back in again.

Yes, a typical stop easily has the car charged up again.

And that is when people are non-smokers. If one is a smoker you can add another 7 minutes to you stop.

And remember, you don't have to wait with your vehicle to charger it unlike Petrol/Diesel. Nor go to a separate queue to pay for fuel. Nor after filling up parking it up again.

Your experiences may differ, but nope a typical stop on motorway services when on a roadtrip is easily 20-30 minutes. No problem at all for a car to be charged sufficiently to do it all again in 3 hours

And yup, we really were there. This is no fiction, just real life. BTW We were there from the UK, and the other Polestar was from Sweden. People road trip in EVs everyday

Last couple of years the story seems to be every summer holiday season that chargers are either occupied and with a queue or broken.

I suppose it doesn’t make sense that The Netherlands in its entirety moves to and from France on these three specific Saturdays every year, but yeah, this seems to be a common scenario.

I don’t drive myself but friends and colleagues with EVs don’t take them on their holidays. Summer queues based on news stories. Must improve by the year though.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

Last couple of years the story seems to be every summer holiday season that chargers are either occupied and with a queue or broken.

I suppose it doesn’t make sense that The Netherlands in its entirety moves to and from France on these three specific Saturdays every year, but yeah, this seems to be a common scenario.

I don’t drive myself but friends and colleagues with EVs don’t take them on their holidays. Summer queues based on news stories. Must improve by the year though.

Yes if one is silly enough to go on holiday during the manic weekend then for one weekend a year you may experience that. The rest of the time it is no problem at all. Our children have holiday from middle June until first week of September. It has its advantages.

Queues are also then at petrol stations. And often one can be slightly smart and don’t go to the same motorway services. At least with an EV it actually gives you an indication of availability.

 

[Herdfan]

My ex had a 2011 Mini and we DIYed with OE parts for under $250.

I will do that with brake pads. Did my daughters GLA last fall and have my wife's Rover that will need them soon.

But I don't change fluids myself. Have spilled the used oil one too many times on the garage floor or driveway.

 

[AlaskaMoose]

I will do that with brake pads. Did my daughters GLA last fall and have my wife's Rover that will need them soon.

But I don't change fluids myself. Have spilled the used oil one too many times on the garage floor or driveway.

It is not difficult at all to replace half-shafts with U-Joints and CV-boots, to replace brake pads, etc. I did such things and a lot more until I retired a second time in 2019. These days is much convenient to let the mechanic take care of labor-intensive work, while I take care of minor maintenance such as:
-Oil & filter changes
-Engine air filter
-Cabin air filter
-Rotating tires, inflating, etc. (but I let the shop rotate the heavy tires of my two trucks).
-Wiper blade replacements, windshield wash fluid, adding brake or steering fluids, etc.
-Exterior and interior light maintenance (replacement, or anything electrical)
-Minor body-panel maintenance (surface rust, paint touchups, etc.)

Wow, I had discs and pads on my Audi A4 back in October and it cost me £192 including labour and VAT.

People here saying BMW’s need new discs and pads at 3 years need to consider the style of driving and the location. If you live in a flat area then this won’t be the case and I know from experience the 3 year rule doesn’t apply in every case.

Disk pads aren't very expensive, but rotors can be: it is less labor-intensive to buy new rotors than to "resurface" them. To resurface each side of the disk's surface (four disks, two in the front and two in the rear) takes a lot of time. So buying four new rotors and four sets of disk pads is not very expensive considering that the new parts should last quite a lot of years, and that at least they have a limited manufacturer's limited warranty.

Driving style will have a big effect on brake longevity.
On my BMW i3 it gives you stars 1-5 for driving style. You get them for anticipation and acceleration.
I rarely get less than 5 for anticipation. Not far off that for acceleration.
Helps with the wear and tear of tyres as well as brakes. And fuel efficiency.

Yes. Driving style makes a great difference. For example, my wife uses the brakes quite a lot, while I don't. This has always been the case since I met her when both of us drove automobiles with manual transmissions. I drove large trucks that had 18-speed transmissions. These had a transfer case with thee settings: LO, MED, and HI gear. I learned to slow down with the transmission and the engine, not with the brakes. My wife slowed down with the brakes because she was afraid to "over-rev" the engine She still uses the brakes driving automobiles with fully automatic transmissions, while I reduce speed with the accelerator, and only use the brakes to stop or on an emergency (or if I must).

I am assuming that you can accelerate and decelerate in a similar way when driving an EV, since it is not solely the use of the brakes that generates kinetic energy, but the change in movement from accelerating to decelerating (?)

 

[Apple fanboy]

It is not difficult at all to replace half-shafts with U-Joints and CV-boots, to replace brake pads, etc. I did such things and a lot more until I retired a second time in 2019. These days is much convenient to let the mechanic take care of labor-intensive work, while I take care of minor maintenance such as:
-Oil & filter changes
-Engine air filter
-Cabin air filter
-Rotating tires, inflating, etc. (but I let the shop rotate the heavy tires of my two trucks).
-Wiper blade replacements, windshield wash fluid, adding brake or steering fluids, etc.
-Exterior and interior light maintenance (replacement, or anything electrical)
-Minor body-panel maintenance (surface rust, paint touchups, etc.)



Disk pads aren't very expensive, but rotors can be: it is less labor-intensive to buy new rotors than to "resurface" them. To resurface each side of the disk's surface (four disks, two in the front and two in the rear) takes a lot of time. So buying four new rotors and four sets of disk pads is not very expensive considering that the new parts should last quite a lot of years, and that at least they have a limited manufacturer's limited warranty.



Yes. Driving style makes a great difference. For example, my wife uses the brakes quite a lot, while I don't. This has always been the case since I met her when both of us drove automobiles with manual transmissions. I drove large trucks that had 18-speed transmissions. These had a transfer case with thee settings: LO, MED, and HI gear. I learned to slow down with the transmission and the engine, not with the brakes. My wife slowed down with the brakes because she was afraid to "over-rev" the engine She still uses the brakes driving automobiles with fully automatic transmissions, while I reduce speed with the accelerator, and only use the brakes to stop or on an emergency (or if I must).

I am assuming that you can accelerate and decelerate in a similar way when driving an EV, since it is not solely the use of the brakes that generates kinetic energy, but the change in movement from accelerating to decelerating (?)

It varies by EV, but in mine it’s basically one pedal driving. When you take your foot off the accelerator the car begins to brake. So when approaching a junction you just take your foot off and it stops where you need it to. You only use the brake pedal when something unexpected happens.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

I am assuming that you can accelerate and decelerate in a similar way when driving an EV, since it is not solely the use of the brakes that generates kinetic energy, but the change in movement from accelerating to decelerating (?)

It can vary a lot with EVs;
— Like standard cars with very limited regeneration where you have to rely on the brakes. Even new cars like the Fisker Ocean can only do this. Not a pleasant experience and because there is no gears as such will be very inefficient from a braking perspective.

— One Pedal Driving often with various levels of regeneration, and depending on the level, brakes can still be required. So effectively, this is like engine braking with the ability to come to a full stop. I love this kind of driving, but it does require the driver, especially in the stronger settings, to be in control of their right foot. Definitely not suitable for people without pedal feel as it can make your passengers feel sick. Unfortunately, not all versions by all manufacturers all to come to a full stop. Moreover, when the batteries are at a full state of charge, the regen has nowhere to go and thus minimizes the effect. This is another area where good and not so good EVs differentiate.

— One Pedal Driving with blended braking, this is really cool and I love it. So this keeps One Pedal Driving consistent across all scenarios and depending on the state of charge and/or braking level required, the system will automatically blend in traditional brakes with your actions. So in a fully charged car your OPD still works, or if there is a sudden traffic jam your OPD will ensure you brake harder and stop in time. The Polestar for example (perhaps no surprise with Volvo as a sibling) does this extremely well. I understand Tesla has only introduced this relatively recently on some of their cars.

The last version has transformed it for me, like you, I've always been an engine braker. So the switch to One Pedal Driving with blended braking was super easy as one is used to doing that smoothly by anticipation of what is about to happen. And arguable my off-road, snow, army and evasive driving training demanded that regardless. This technology brings it to another level. It is astonishing.

 

[Herdfan]

-Rotating tires, inflating, etc. (but I let the shop rotate the heavy tires of my two trucks).

I let the tire shop do this (which they do for free). The reason being is most of the tires I buy have 50-60,000 mile warranties but the tires must be rotated every X number of miles. By letting the tire store do it, there is proof it was done for warranty purposes.

And this is important because I will only get 40K out of a 60K tire. I haven't paid full price for a set of tires in years.

 

[Herdfan]

It varies by EV, but in mine it’s basically one pedal driving. When you take your foot off the accelerator the car begins to brake. So when approaching a junction you just take your foot off and it stops where you need it to. You only use the brake pedal when something unexpected happens.

My diesel truck will do something sort of like this when I have the engine brake on. If you let off the gas, especially on a downhill, you can feel the engine holding you back. Great for driving in hilly terrain, especially with a trailer.

 

[Flamingdeathbolts]

I let the tire shop do this (which they do for free). The reason being is most of the tires I buy have 50-60,000 mile warranties but the tires must be rotated every X number of miles. By letting the tire store do it, there is proof it was done for warranty purposes.

And this is important because I will only get 40K out of a 60K tire. I haven't paid full price for a set of tires in years.

Thanks for the insight. Why don’t people talk more about this? Anyway I got to get a new set of tires/rims for my car this upcoming Spring once I upgrade to a big brake kit. Gonna get some 60k warranty tires.

 

[cyb3rdud3]

Thanks for the insight. Why don’t people talk more about this? Anyway I got to get a new set of tires/rims for my car this upcoming Spring once I upgrade to a big brake kit. Gonna get some 60k warranty tires.

Harder compound, more noise, less grip, the list goes on why 60K miles tyres aren't really that great, nor common. It is a compromise that not many are willing to take.

Combination of big brake kit and 60K miles tyres seems an odd one to me as well. What are you trying to achieve by upgrading to a big brake kit? Do go racing? Do you get brake fade?

 

[Apple fanboy]

Of course that’s assuming your front and rears are the same size. Mine are not.

 

[Flamingdeathbolts]

Harder compound, more noise, less grip, the list goes on why 60K miles tyres aren't really that great, nor common. It is a compromise that not many are willing to take.

Combination of big brake kit and 60K miles tyres seems an odd one to me as well. What are you trying to achieve by upgrading to a big brake kit? Do go racing? Do you get brake fade?

I see my mistake here. I do occasionally autocross. Looking online most of the tires I would purchase only come with a 1 year warranty at best. Yea bbk is not necessary, I run EBC yellow pads which are great. Have had the car now for over 8years, wanted to spoil myself with a little upgrade.

 

[YoitsTmac]

I see my mistake here. I do occasionally autocross. Looking online most of the tires I would purchase only come with a 1 year warranty at best. Yea bbk is not necessary, I run EBC yellow pads which are great. Have had the car now for over 8years, wanted to spoil myself with a little upgrade.

Better luck than me. My EBC yellows handled Laguna when my PFC pads couldn’t, but now with some street miles, they seem to have fallen off a cliff. After a spirited canyons run, the pad had very soft bite and even with a 15 minute cool down before I stopped, reeked of brakes and my rotors had temperature scoring.

Like you said, BBKs are rarely worth it and cause you to carry more unsprung mass, but EBC yellow is as aggressive of a pad as I’ll run on the street, so a larger rotor for me.

Edit: I also don’t recommend tires over 500TW just from a pure safety standpoint. 40k mile tire changes, 60k mile tire changes (if that’s the difference for 500TW), is it really worth running a harder compound at the expense of safety? I always tell my friends to not cheap out on their one contact with the road.

 

[AlaskaMoose]

My diesel truck will do something sort of like this when I have the engine brake on. If you let off the gas, especially on a downhill, you can feel the engine holding you back. Great for driving in hilly terrain, especially with a trailer.

Yes. Engine-braking works well. A lot of trucks and SUVs have that feature. My 2013 Tundra has it, and is quite useful when towing heavy trailers.

It varies by EV, but in mine it’s basically one pedal driving. When you take your foot off the accelerator the car begins to brake. So when approaching a junction you just take your foot off and it stops where you need it to. You only use the brake pedal when something unexpected happens.

I see. It seems to be similar to the engine braking of ICE automobiles, except that the latter don't need to recover energy. I am assuming that like engine-braking, the brakes aren't being applied, just that the motor (s) are slowing the vehicle's speed. Have you heard of EV yoyo driving to recover energy in cases where the battery is nearly discharged when not driving in the city? (I will post the video after this one).

It can vary a lot with EVs;
— Like standard cars with very limited regeneration where you have to rely on the brakes. Even new cars like the Fisker Ocean can only do this. Not a pleasant experience and because there is no gears as such will be very inefficient from a braking perspective.

— One Pedal Driving often with various levels of regeneration, and depending on the level, brakes can still be required. So effectively, this is like engine braking with the ability to come to a full stop. I love this kind of driving, but it does require the driver, especially in the stronger settings, to be in control of their right foot. Definitely not suitable for people without pedal feel as it can make your passengers feel sick. Unfortunately, not all versions by all manufacturers all to come to a full stop. Moreover, when the batteries are at a full state of charge, the regen has nowhere to go and thus minimizes the effect. This is another area where good and not so good EVs differentiate.

— One Pedal Driving with blended braking, this is really cool and I love it. So this keeps One Pedal Driving consistent across all scenarios and depending on the state of charge and/or braking level required, the system will automatically blend in traditional brakes with your actions. So in a fully charged car your OPD still works, or if there is a sudden traffic jam your OPD will ensure you brake harder and stop in time. The Polestar for example (perhaps no surprise with Volvo as a sibling) does this extremely well. I understand Tesla has only introduced this relatively recently on some of their cars.

The last version has transformed it for me, like you, I've always been an engine braker. So the switch to One Pedal Driving with blended braking was super easy as one is used to doing that smoothly by anticipation of what is about to happen. And arguable my off-road, snow, army and evasive driving training demanded that regardless. This technology brings it to another level. It is astonishing.

One Pedal Driving sounds quite interesting.

 

[AlaskaMoose]

EV "yoyo" driving a VW iD4:

 

[HDFan]

Things like minimal interior colors, and minimal parts help.

quagmire: "How much of the no way to another Tesla is Musk antics based or actual poor experience with the car?"

Almost every month there are new complaints from Tesla owners in the news. Here are a few I remember.

wheels falling off:

Teslas Have a Minor Issue Where the Wheels Fly Off While Driving, Documents Show

Despite knowing about chronic "flaws," Tesla reportedly blamed drivers for glaring defects like collapsed suspensions and breaking axles.

futurism.com

Tesla denying warranty replacements:

In October an owner hit a puddle which ruined the battery. Tesla said

"they weren’t necessarily at fault, but that Tesla also couldn’t be expected to pay for the battery’s replacement."

That replacement costs over £17K.

https://www.extremetech.com/cars/teslas-bill-to-fix-a-rain-damaged-battery-21000

Acquaintance with 3 week old Tesla had the steering wheel completely lock up while backing out of driveway.

Steering wheel falling off:

Tesla under investigation; steering wheels falling off

Tesla is under investigation by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration after complaints steering wheels for the Model Y vehicle have fallen off.

www.foxbusiness.com

Even if some of these claims are bogus certainly is a cause for worry.

Edited: Just saw another of the innumerable articles about Tesla flaws

Analysis | Testing Tesla’s Autopilot recall, I don’t feel much safer — and neither should you

On the streets of San Francisco, Tesla’s updated driver-assistance software still took the wheel in places it wasn’t designed to handle, including blowing through stop signs.

www.washingtonpost.com

 

[Apple fanboy]

Yes. Engine-braking works well. A lot of trucks and SUVs have that feature. My 2013 Tundra has it, and is quite useful when towing heavy trailers.



I see. It seems to be similar to the engine braking of ICE automobiles, except that the latter don't need to recover energy. I am assuming that like engine-braking, the brakes aren't being applied, just that the motor (s) are slowing the vehicle's speed. Have you heard of EV yoyo driving to recover energy in cases where the battery is nearly discharged when not driving in the city? (I will post the video after this one).



One Pedal Driving sounds quite interesting.

Yes just the motor slows the car unless one applies the brakes. That’s why brake pads last a lot longer on an EV. They do recommend using your brakes once in a while though.
The regen on my EV happens all the time. Some EV’s have different settings that change how much it applies, but mine doesn’t.

 

[HDFan]

Tesla news just keeps coming. There has been speculation about safety issues for people in cars which hit/are hit by a Cybertruck. We now have our first crash.

"Photos posted on a Reddit showed the front of the Toyota completely crumpled while the Cybertruck appeared to have skid marks on its left side and damage to the back wheel well."

Tesla Cybertruck causes ‘major damage’ to other vehicle in first reported crash

Tesla Cybertruck causes ‘major damage’ to other vehicle in first reported crash, California Highway Patrol says

www.sfchronicle.com