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My bootrom version is 180.0.0.0.0
That doesn't look like the right BootROM version. The latest firmwares for 11.6.1 are listed below. Not sure which MBP you have, but the firmware should be in the 400's.

 
That doesn't look like the right BootROM version. The latest firmwares for 11.6.1 are listed below. Not sure which MBP you have, but the firmware should be in the 400's.

That’s probably the problem.
 
Yes, the old BootRom is not compatible with NVMe regarding BootRom updates. To update your BootRom you need an original Apple SSD.

Successfully updated my wife's MBA 13" Early 2015 to Monterey with the BootRom also being updated. The MBA has a 500GB Silicon Power SSD A80
I'm using
Yes, the old BootRom is not compatible with NVMe regarding BootRom updates. To update your BootRom you need an original Apple SSD.

Successfully updated my wife's MBA 13" Early 2015 to Monterey with the BootRom also being updated. The MBA has a 500GB Silicon Power SSD A80
Sorry to bother you.
Would you think this will work for me.

My MacBook mid 2014
2.6 GHz
8GB ram
ADATA SX8200PNP 256GB Nvme
working fine on 11.6.1

System Firmware Version: 149.0.0.0.0

Thinking on trying opencore patcher to try Monterey
 
So no one has tried upgrading to Monterey? If I need to swap in the original SSD for each new macOS release, I'll definitely return everything and let my GF deal with the Apple 256 SSD using external drives 😆
you can use this as storage expander for your Macbook 11,1. I have it on both my macs with 512gb microsd cards. Very good for storing movies and macOS cache apps instead of putting it on the internal ssd.
 

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I'm using

Sorry to bother you.
Would you think this will work for me.

My MacBook mid 2014
2.6 GHz
8GB ram
ADATA SX8200PNP 256GB Nvme
working fine on 11.6.1

System Firmware Version: 149.0.0.0.0

Thinking on trying opencore patcher to try Monterey

You can try with OC or OCLP if you have any special GPU.

Get my config.plist+EFI from https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...2-macbook-pro-retina-late-2013.2307146/page-3

Nevertheless, you need to do it on a separate volume just in case things go wrong for you. Also, the correct config.plist is the one in post #75 on that thread. I am able to boot (and use) Monterey just by adding a nvram boot-args="-no_compat_check". (read the pages there).
 
My MacBook mid 2014
2.6 GHz
8GB ram
ADATA SX8200PNP 256GB Nvme
is working fine on 11.6.1

System Firmware Version: 149.0.0.0.0

Thinking on trying opencore patcher to try Monterey
what's your idle power consumption with your nvme? Anyway keep us posted. Thinking of doing the same with my mid 2014 also.
 
Th
You can try with OC or OCLP if you have any special GPU.

Get my config.plist+EFI from https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...2-macbook-pro-retina-late-2013.2307146/page-3

Nevertheless, you need to do it on a separate volume just in case things go wrong for you. Also, the correct config.plist is the one in post #75 on that thread. I am able to boot (and use) Monterey just by adding a nvram boot-args="-no_compat_check". (read the pages there)Thank you just making the the USB now will try with OC.
 
you can use this as storage expander for your Macbook 11,1. I have it on both my macs with 512gb microsd cards. Very good for storing movies and macOS cache apps instead of putting it on the internal ssd.
Downside is that Deep Sleep/Hibernate mode is disabled when you have an additional card plugged in. You’ll have to unmount the card before closing the lid.
 
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what's your idle power consumption with your nvme? Anyway keep us posted. Thinking of doing the same with my mid 2014 also.
I'm in the market for A new battery as i'm getting the battery service message so i'm in the mains most of the time.
 
Hi there @grapefruitcherrypie

Late 2013 (11,1 here).
I also got a P31 Gold 1TB over the weekend and had trouble installing Windows 10.
The lowest version I could install using the Shift+F10 trick with the registry was Build 1703 (Redstone 2).
Other newer versions just get stuck in a reboot loop or load into Windows Recovery. The CMD prompt in the RE won't run because there's no admin user setup yet.
I can't bump up this version of Windows 10 to 20H2 because it's too old.
I've tried making newer versions on Bootable USB's and running the setup.exe from the Windows environment to upgrade the existing version.
I stall or get a BSOD with 0xC1900101 – 0x4001E: Installation failed in the SECOND_BOOT phase during PRE_OOBE.

If I was to pull the drive and put it into a 2015 MBP, I'm sure it'll work fine.

Update: I put the P31 into the 2015, and it updates all the way to 21H1 without any issues.
When I put the drive with 21H1 back into the 2013, WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR
Interesting. I successfully loaded Win 10 Build 1607 (evaluation version), then installed Windows Server 2016 eval. When I installed Windows Server 2016 Eval, the windows boot loader changed from the graphics-based screen, to the text-based screen. I don't think this would be a factor, but if you try all my other steps then that could be why.

If you have the time to test, can I suggest you try downloading the Windows 11 x64 Eval .iso from here. Create a bootable usb using the steps I outlined in my original post, then follow my install steps. Let me know if that works for you or not.

My method of creating the bootable usb was certainly the only reliable method for me, especially for Windows 11. I didn't like the idea of creating a windows 10 bootable usb, then copying install.wim from windows 11 over the top. I outline a method of loading a simple registry fix during Windows 11 setup which does the job in a much cleaner fashion, in my opinion, as it uses the unmodified original installation media.
 
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Hi all, this thread has been critical in my journey to upgrade the ssd in my venerable macbook, so I want to add my experience to the general pool of knowledge.

I have a late 2013 macbook pro 13" retina. 16gb ram, 1tb ssd, High Sierra. This laptop has been my rock-solid daily driver for 8 years now and it is still going strong. I needed to install Big Sur recently to install XCode v13. However Big Sur refused to install, saying the ssd has SMART errors. Some investigation revealed that the wear levelling on the 1tb ssd had triggered a SMART warning, even though the numbers didn't seem immediately worrying. Disk Utility now showed the disk as "Failed" and Big Sur refused to install on it.

The need to replace the ssd in my macbook quickly led me to this forum. Based on all the reviews, I decided on the SK Hynix P31 Gold 2tb ssd from amazon AU (au$429 ~= us$320) with a SinTech adapter (au$25 ~= us$19). I opted for the P31 given the price, as well as the knowledge that I would unfortunately not be able to run ssdPmEnabler on my MacBookPro11.1. This drive reportedly idles at 100mW, which is what I need.

Took a week for the drive and adapter to be delivered. Here're pictures of the 1tb and 2tb installed in the laptop:

Apple 1tb hard drive in the laptop:
View attachment 1877036

SK Hynix P31 Gold 2tb ssd installed:
View attachment 1877037

I was worried that the end of new 2tb drive would cover over the screw hole a bit, but turns out it needs a good amount of force applied to properly sit in the connector. The screw then fits perfectly.

I had already prepped a Big Sur bootable usb, so I booted from that and proceeded to install that to a 500gb partition. Install was quick and painless - no issues at all.

I also needed to get Windows Server and Windows 10 installed on Bootcamp, as I use that for work. I was running Windows Server 2016 and Windows 10 (for light gaming) on my existing 1tb, so I figured I would try to install Windows Server 2022 and Windows 11. I tried using both Boot Camp Assistant (BCA) on macos and Rufus on windows to create bootable USBs, both without any success. There were a lot of variables to try, including the various methods listed online to make Win11 install on non-TPM machines, as well as the Rufus options themselves.

I finally tried just going back to Windows 10. I initially tried installing 20h2 but this didn't work. In hindsight, this turned out to be because I used BCA to create the USB.

Adapting the method from here I finally got Win10 1607 installed. I'll detail the reliable method that I used. First, create a bootable USB. There is a lot of varying information on the internet about how best to achieve this. The method that worked for me requires access to a windows PC. Windows in a virtual machine might work, but I haven't tried. The usb must be formatted at GPT (Guid Partition Table) and the file system as exFat. Some of the more recent Windows .iso contain files which are larger than the 4gb fat32 limit. The steps are similar to those required for an MBR usb here, but adjusted to suit GPT.

On your windows machine, insert your >=8gb USB and open command prompt:
  • type: diskpart - opens windows command-line disk manager program
  • type: list disk - this displays the available disks
  • select disk {number to the usb disk} - make sure you get the correct disk!
  • clean - wipes the disk
  • convert gpt - pretty straight forward
  • create partition primary - create a single partition that spans the disk
  • format quick fs=exfat label=Win10Inst
  • assign letter={pick an unused letter, like u}
  • exit - quick disk part
Now you need to double-click in Explorer on your Windows 10 1607 x64 .iso file to mount it.
Back in the command prompt window, type:
  • cd {drive letter of mounted .iso}:
  • cd\boot
  • bootsect /nt60 {usb drive letter}:
  • cd ..
  • xcopy {mounted iso drive letter}:\*.* {usb drive letter}:\ /e /f /h
When the copy is finished, eject the USB and unmount the .iso. Congratulations, you now have a windows bootable usb that will work on your mac. I have used this process successfully for Win10, Win 11, Win Server 2016 and Win Server 2022.

Now we will need to download the Bootcamp drivers. Open Boot Camp Assistant on your mac, and choose Action -> Download Windows Support Software. Check that the version is 6.0.6136 by opening WindowsSupport\BootCamp\BootCamp.xml in TextEdit and confirm that there is the line "<ProductVersion>6.0.6136</ProductVersion>". Rename the WindowsSupport folder to something useful like "Bootcamp v6.0.6136" and move it to your bootable Windows USB, if there is enough space (it requires about 2.5gb). Otherwise save it to another fat32/exfat-formatted USB. We will use this later to install the Bootcamp drivers into Windows.

Now we are ready to actually install Windows. I have to give credit to this post as it was a big help in pointing me in the right direction.

Insert the USB into your mac, turn it on, then press-and-hold the Option (Alt) key to show the boot device menu. The boot usb should be listed as "EFI Boot". If there are multiple options listed with the same name, the easiest way is to take the USB out, watch the option disappear from the list, then plug it back in again. This makes it clear which is which.

Proceed to install Windows 10. I used the Win 10 installer to turn the rest of the 1.5 tb free space on my drive into three partitions. One for Win Server, one for data, then one for Win 10. I put the data drive in between, so I can easily resize that partition in the future if any of my OS partitions need more space.

Let windows install do its thing. When your computer boots for the first time, remove the install usb. Windows installation should continue automatically, but if you reboot into macos, you might need to restart need to restart, press-and-hold the Option(alt) key and choose "EFI boot". This should be the name of the Windows OS on the other partition.

You should see the "Getting Ready" screen, then Windows install will report "ran into a problem" and reboot. This is not great, but it is expected. Let it reboot. On start up, you should see a message box with text like "the computer restarted unexpectedly or encountered an error" (sorry, I should have taken a photo). Do not press ok yet. Now we need to employ the shift-f10 trick that is referenced in in the first post of this mega-thread, under the "8 - BootCamp installation issues" section:
  • press shift-f10 - this opens a command prompt
  • type: regedit - open registry editor
  • in regedit, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Setup\Status\ChildCompletion
  • when you can see "setup.exe" in the right section, double-click it and modify the value to 3
  • close registry editor
  • close command prompt
  • press ok - this will reboot the pc
When Windows 10 installation continues, you'll see some progress. Then it'll ask you a bunch of questions. Well done, you now have Windows 10 installed.

To install the BootCamp drivers, insert the USB where you copied the "Bootcamp v6.0.6136" folder to, then run Bootcamp v6.0.6136\BootCamp\Setup.exe. Reboot the computer when Bootcamp asks. When the computer starts again, connect to wifi and run the Apple Software Updater (find it in the start menu somewhere). This might provide a couple of driver updates. We want to install those before we run Windows Update, as Windows Update will probably have the more recent drivers. Next, run Windows Update. Make sure you install any extra drivers listed under Optional Updates (depending on the windows version, you might find optional updates listed under Advanced Options). On my MacBookPro11.1, there were 5 intel drivers which I installed with no issues.

There we have it, Windows 10 1607 installed. Feeling brave, I then repeated the same process above with the Windows Server 2022 evaluation x64 .iso (download here), installing Standard edition with GUI, and it worked too! Interestingly, Windows Server 2022 eval iso did not perform any TPM check, so I didn't need any hack to get around that. You will need an external usb keyboard to be able to press "ctrl-alt-delete" at the logon screen, until you have Bootcamp installed. After bootcamp, you can press fn-ctrl-alt-del on the in-built keyboard without problems. Also, before installing bootcamp, open powershell and run "Add-WindowsFeature -Name Wireless-Networking". Reboot. Then install Bootcamp drivers. Without this, Bootcamp will not properly install the wifi driver and you cannot connect to any network. Right-clicking on the bootcamp tray icon and choosing "show control panel" wasn't working. However, from command prompt you can run "runas /trustlevel:0x20000 AppleControlPanel" (credit). This will show the control panel and allow you to make any changes.

Now, feeling plain reckless, I tried it with the Windows 11 x64 .iso (making bootable usb as per above). That worked as well! Win11 requires a couple of extra steps to bypass the TPM check that it tries to make (adapted from here, but I use the registry editor to import instead of the roundabout method of opening notepad to try and merge in a reg file):
  • after you create your win11 bootable usb, while still on your windows machine:
  • open notepad
  • paste in the following text to notepad (no spare lines above or below):
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Setup\LabConfig]
"BypassTPMCheck"=dword:00000001
"BypassSecureBootCheck"=dword:00000001

  • save the file to the root of the bootable usb as "tpmbypass.reg". Important: Make sure you change file extension drop-down from "Text" to "All files", otherwise Windows might try to add a .txt extension
Follow steps above to actually boot from this USB. When you see the screen with the "Install Now" button:
  • press shift-f10 to open a command prompt
  • type: regedit - to open registry editor
  • choose File -> Import menu item
  • browse to the bootable USB and open the "tpmbypass.reg" file
  • import that, and click OK
  • close registry editor
  • close command prompt
You can now press Install Now and continue with the installation. Follow the rest of the instructions above as per the Win10 install. When it comes to the network selection, choose "I don't have a network" then "continue with limited setup". Windows 11 will not have any drivers for the wifi adapter yet. After a few more questions Windows will then show a purple "this might take a few minutes, don't turn off your pc" screen. After that, you are in the desktop. Windows 11 is installed. Follow Bootcamp driver installation above, making sure you install any optional drivers too. Congratulations, you are now in business.

As an aside, I have always run ThrottleStop on my Windows Bootcamp partitions, to reduce the max CPU frequency to 28 (just before turbo mode kicks in on my i7 2.8ghz dual-core cpus). When turbo mode kicks in, so do the fans and I don't like that. I use v8.60 (available for download under "older versions"). Newer versions might work, but I haven't tried. In order to get ThrottleStop v8.60 working in Win Server 2022 and Windows 11, you'll need to install the x86 and x64 versions of the Update for Visual C++ 2013 Redistributable Package (credit)

Finally, the good bits. Here are the stats of existing 1tb Apple ssd and the new 2tb.

Apple 1tb ssd:
idle power usage on battery: ~15mW

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on battery:
View attachment 1877055

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on a/c:
View attachment 1877056

AmorpheousDiskMark, High Sierra (connected to a/c)
View attachment 1877041

CrystalDiskMark on Windows 10 (connected to a/c):
View attachment 1877048

SK Hynix 2tb ssd:
idle power usage on battery: ~105mw

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on battery:
View attachment 1877057

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on battery, downloading XCode:
View attachment 1877058

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on battery, installing XCode:
View attachment 1877059

iStat Menus SSD 3.3v idle readings, on battery, back on idle after XCode installation (while typing up this post):
View attachment 1877060

AmorpheousDiskMark, Big Sur (connected to a/c):
View attachment 1877051

CrystalDiskMark, Windows 11 (connected to a/c):
View attachment 1877053

Overall, I am very pleased with the result. Performance is about twice as good, with twice the capacity. The machine certainly feels snappier (the drive plays a big part, but the fresh operating systems certainly help too). Interesting that the random 4k read at queue depth 1 is less than the writes. Not sure what that is about, but at least the values increased.

I am a masochist, so I am going to try installing @kvic ssdPmEnabler even though it most likely won't work. I'd really love to get that idle power usage down. I spend most of my time on a/c, so it isn't a major issue, but I would still love to be able to improve the battery life.

There we have it, I feel a mega-post is only fitting for a mega-thread.

Further to my post, I can reliably cause Windows 11 and Windows Server 2022 in Bootcamp to error quickly: when I pull out the a/c cord. Thankfully, this is also easy to fix.
  • Press "ctrl-r" to bring up the Windows Run box
  • type: "powercfg.cpl" and press ok, to bring up the classic power management control panel
  • For your current plan (and all other plans), choose "Change plan settings"
  • On the next window, choose "Change advanced power settings"
  • Navigate to "PCI Express" -> "Link State Power Management"
  • Make sure that you don't use "Maximum power savings" for either "On Battery" or "Plugged in". The settings of "Moderate power savings" and "Off" work fine on my machine
2021-10-27 change powers power management for pci express.png


Again, this is only on my MacBookPro11.1 (late 2013 13" retina). It might not affect other macbooks in Bootcamp, and is probably related to the same reason why ssdPmEnabler cannot be run on this model of macbook pro.

It also does means that during installation of Windows, make sure you have the a/c connected at all times.
 
Downside is that Deep Sleep/Hibernate mode is disabled when you have an additional card plugged in. You’ll have to unmount the card before closing the lid.
i did not know that. Been using it for 4 years already. i get usually just around 1-2% discharge for overnight sleep with the lid closed, so i guess it's worth the trade off.
 
I picked up a 2TB SK Hynix P31 Gold a while back. I saw the update on here that the SK Hynix could be used in a MBP, and when I went on Amazon to order one, the 2TB drives had been released. I picked up one of what appears to have been a small, initial batch.

I hooked the drive up to a PC to do the firmware update, but the SK Hynix firmware program would not recognize the drive. I then looked on the website and saw that the site only talked about the firmware upgrades for the 512gb and 1tb drives. So, I decided that the 2TB drive had updated firmware since it was a new release.

I formatted the drive on the PC and tried again and still no recognition of the drive, which further confirmed my belief.

I then took the drive and formatted it to AFPS with a GUID partition, and I did this thinking that with this erasure/formatting and the erasure/formatting at the time of install that I could better ensure the drive did not have issues.

I created a bootable installer, and I hooked that up to my 2015 15" MBP along with the enclosure. I booted from the installer and did a clean install on the new drive in an enclosure. I booted from the new drive from the enclosure and everything worked fine. The read/write speeds were only listed as 40/50 mbs, but I assumed that was due to the enclosure because everything was very snappy.

I popped the back cover off, disconnected the battery, pulled the original SSD, slid in the 2TB P31 with the syntec adapter, hooked up the battery, screwed the cover on and started the joker up. Everything worked great.

I did this last night, and I downloaded most of what I need for work along with 70gb of files from OneDrive. I have not had a kernel panic as of yet, and things are going great. I could really tell a difference in how it handled the large video files in my OneDrive compared to the original SSD. This drive is more responsive.

Oddly enough, startup is a bit slower and the screen blinks once while the Apple icon is showing, but everything works fine with no issues so far (including sleep/hibernation).

I'm consistently getting write speeds of 2600 and read speeds just below 2300.
 
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I hooked the drive up to a PC to do the firmware update, but the SK Hynix firmware program would not recognize the drive. I then looked on the website and saw that the site only talked about the firmware upgrades for the 512gb and 1tb drives. So, I decided that the 2TB drive had updated firmware since it was a nice release.
That's great! Can you send more info on your SSD please?
I would find it much of a relief not to have Windows involved in the installing of a new SSD.

So it may be possible to tell the revision from the serial (first two digits should be enough).
Or just a snapshot of the label on the box or the SSD itself.

(Edit: Quote from the 2TB SK Hynix P31 post above added.)
 
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I’m running an SX8200 on an Early 2015 13” MacBook Pro. Tried upgrading to Monterey today and got hit with this message. Looks like they’re not allowing anyone with non-approved NVME disks to upgrade. Bummer.

View attachment 1878181
I was able to update from Big Sur 11.6 to Monterey with a 3rd party NVMe, no problem.

What version were you coming up from?
 
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Flawless upgrade to MacOS Monterey 12.0.1
Just to share my experience. My system is an MBP 2015 13" (12,1) with an Intel 660P SSD (2TB).
No special loaders installed (no NVMeFix and no ssdPmEnabler).
Upgrade from MacOS BigSur 11.6 to 11.6.1 resulted in upgrade of firmware from 427.140.8.0.0 to 428.40.10.0.0
Upgrade from 11.6.1 to Monterey 12.0.1 resulted in no change of the firmware.
Far as I can determine all functions well (as before). No change of power usage. Sleep still works well.
 
Flawless upgrade to MacOS Monterey 12.0.1
Just to share my experience. My system is an MBP 2015 13" (12,1) with an Intel 660P SSD (2TB).
No special loaders installed (no NVMeFix and no ssdPmEnabler).
Upgrade from MacOS BigSur 11.6 to 11.6.1 resulted in upgrade of firmware from 427.140.8.0.0 to 428.40.10.0.0
Upgrade from 11.6.1 to Monterey 12.0.1 resulted in no change of the firmware.
Far as I can determine all functions well (as before). No change of power usage. Sleep still works well.
Do you notice higher fan use or warmer laptop? The only thing preventing me to do the job now is that, I fear heat will damage battery quicker
 
Do you notice higher fan use or warmer laptop? The only thing preventing me to do the job now is that, I fear heat will damage battery quicker
I have a similar setup, if you run these extensions to reduce power consumption, it's very close to the stock drive. Fan will not always run even with the NVMe drive installed.

Batteries are generally consumable, in my case, I have not had a significant degradation and have had mine for about 1.5 years now.
 
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I have a similar setup, if you run these extensions to reduce power consumption, it's very close to the stock drive. Fan will not always run even with the NVMe drive installed.

Batteries are generally consumable, in my case, I have not had a significant degradation and have had mine for about 1.5 years now.

And... without these extensions? I heard most of the time they're fine, but they can also cause trouble. Not sure to what extent though, should browse more the thread
 
Hey guys,

We switched from the Sabrent Rocket (dark blue) 1TB NVME SSD to using the SK Hynix P31 Gold. A few hundred Macs have been sold with the Sabrent Rocket SSD with 0 issues in the past 12 months. Hoping the SK Hynix P31 Gold can offer the same stability.

You can update the firmware on the P31 Gold using a MacBook Pro. We used a 15" MacBook Pro Mid 2015. We installed the latest version of Big Sur, then downloaded the Windows 10 iso from the Microsoft website. Installed Windows To Go on an external SSD, then copied the Boot Camp drivers onto the drive.

Shut down the Mac. Swapped out the internal SSD with the SK Hynix P31 Gold SSD + Sintech Short adapter and booted it up from the external windows to go SSD.

Downloaded the Hynix firmware update tool and the new update.

Applied and activated the updates and now we're on the latest firmware. So far it's got better write and read speeds than the Sabrent Rocket. (2500 write / 2100 read vs 1800 write / 2200 read).

Looking forward to seeing the nice boost in performance with it.
Alright, I'm at my wits end here.

MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Late 2013)
Mojave 10.14.6
Boot ROM Version: 432.40.8.0.1
MacBookPro11,1

I have an original Apple 256gb ssd, and bought a SK Hynix P31 Gold 1TB + Sintech adapter to upgrade. I've followed the above steps, and go all the way to the P31 firmware update, but the drive shows as "Not Responding" in the Hynix firmware update tool.
I have Windows 10 To Go on a 64gb external ssd, with Boot Camp drivers installed. P31 drive is installed internally. Ran Windows updates as well.

The P31 shows up in Disk Management in Win10 with correct 1TB capacity, but is not assigned a drive letter.
Previously, I tried updating the P31 firmware with it in an external enclosure, but that gave the "Not Responding" in the update tool too.

I don't think the P31 is faulty, because I was able to install Big Sur on it, and boot from it externally. However, once I installed it internally, it gave a "not permitted" symbol on boot up. Assuming this is because of the ssd firmware not being up to date.

I was suspecting that the Sintech adapter could be faulty, but if the P31 shows in Win10 Disk Management, then the drive is being recognized and I assume that rules out faulty hardware. I've gone through many different google searches, and reseated the P31 and adapter many times now. Not sure what to try next.
 
DUD adapter.

To repeat and resolve earlier post of mine in this thread:

This adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVQXG4B seems like a DUD to me.
MBP Mid 2015, 15", MacOS 10.14.6, WD 550 1TB, read/write speed ca. 800 MByte/sec
System Information -> "Link Width" = x1

Replaced with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYY3H5F sintech adapter:
read speed: 2200 MByte/sec, write speed: 830 MByte/sec
System Information -> "Link Width" = x4

Power consumption at idle: 0.3A, ma write speed: 0.8A, max read speed: 0.99A

I am missing the information about checking correct functioning by looking at the x1/x4 info on the first Wiki post. How could i get that added ?

I initially had concerns that the short sintech adapter could be mechanically instable (that is why i bought the long adapter, but it is not.
 
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I could not figure out from any of the posts whether a new MacOS than the 10.14.6 i am running might support NVMexpress power saving modes. Can anybody confirm that they don't or that they do ?
 
Has any of you guys tried this one? I wonder if it's going to perform as the original SSD or like an NVME

 

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