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Yellow tint on Haswell rMBP 15"
- Thread starter zOlid
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I can tell you it doesn't work as I already tried it.
You cannot calibrate a display that isn't even. The issue is not that the whole screen is yellow the issue for all of us is that only part of the screen is yellow. Any gamma / colour / brightness adjustment affects the entire screen not just certain areas so no matter how much you adjust it you will always have an unevenness where one part looks yellow.
Also I must be insane because I just re-ordered another one and am going through this whole thing again. Sadly my 17" MBP has started to crash all the time (sometimes a few minutes sometimes an hour) when running on the 9600GT GPU. It doesn't crash while on the 9400m but sadly that GPU is so underpowered I can't even use my external display without enormous lag so I've been forced to re-order out of necessity.
Having seen some of the other sample pictures it's nowhere near as bad and it could perhaps be classed as being acceptable. Time will tell though.
Yep, check this picture. Same as before; screen at full brightness and source is an iPhone 5. From my own view, it clearly is no Pioneer Kuro or Panasonic VT/ZT but it's not wholly bad for a laptop screen again I feel its within the acceptable limits of the quality expected.
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Many of you were able to exchange or return your yellow-tinted display within 14 days of purchase. But for some of us, the original display we got was very nice but we got the display replaced for other reasons (image retention, muras, stuck pixels, exploding pixels, etc.). So I can't exchange or return the machine because I bought it last year. What options do we have? I've gone to the Genius Bar 3 times to complain about the yellow tint and I've been told 3 times at 3 different Apple stores that the yellow tint is normal. I've called Apple support only to be told to take it in to the Genius Bar. What option do I have? I have Apple Care. I bought a Spyder4Elite and it helped a little but as we've decided here the problem is that the display is uneven and so can't be calibrated.
I post a lot on that, but the thing is that colorimeters are somewhat hamstrung when it comes to this stuff. The ICC profile that corresponds to your display basically says two things. The first part is a description of the measured gamut. The second is just a small set of matrices for red, green, and blue. Red, green and blue can use up to 8 bits each, as 8 are reserved for alpha values. They're each multiplied by matrices, which produce inevitable gaps in that range, which can be worse with 6 bit panels. I think the rMBPs are probably 8. Anyway that's what calibration is actually doing. Some of the more sophisticated displays have their own proprietary systems, but those are mostly aimed at professionals and businesses that need things like correlation tools. Those kinds of displays have a little more leverage, but even then you aren't going to get great results if you push it too far from its intended use. If you're going to use one, I pretty much suggest starting at "native" on any given setting that asks for it. My cMBP is waaaayyy off D65 for its color temp, but it's fine. Trying to hit that jacks with the levels too much.
Oh yeah regarding what to do. I suggest phoning applecare. Take pictures of the display for reference. Argue with them if necessary. There isn't anything you can do about lack of uniformity. It's another one of those things that is semi-solvable on certain hardware. The way they deal with it on certain display brands is by setting the pixels darker/lighter in those areas. It eats some of the contrast ratio to overcome an inherent problem with backlit lcds.
That is not something I would ever do with one of my own machines. You can end up with banding. These are either 6 or 8 bit panels, and you are trying to apply a very steep correction by means of the framebuffer. The hardware isn't exactly 2.2, but it's much closer to that if you average the three channels. The only reason the yellow might disappear is due to the differences between them combined with an equal adjustment across all 3, but it's still a really bad idea, as you may find weird looking output in other areas or as I mentioned banding.
You can't truly calibrate one of these at all. Ideally if you have a colorimeter and the appropriate software you start off setting everything to native and see how it looks. Typically the less you have to make weird tweaks by means of profiling the better. That would be why the more costly displays have their own LUTs. It allows for far more point to point adjustments without reducing the overall precision. I use that word lightly, but I don't want to go into that. Sorry about your 17
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"That is not something I would ever do with one of my own machines. You can end up with banding. These are either 6 or 8 bit panels, and you are trying to apply a very steep correction by means of the framebuffer. The hardware isn't exactly 2.2, but it's much closer to that if you average the three channels. The only reason the yellow might disappear is due to the differences between them combined with an equal adjustment across all 3, but it's still a really bad idea, as you may find weird looking output in other areas or as I mentioned banding."
After calibration in expert mode, The native gamma turns out to be 1.8. I meant to say, Calibrate first and then let the calibration tool determine the native gamma. I didn't mean to give bad advice,
After calibration in expert mode, The native gamma turns out to be 1.8. I meant to say, Calibrate first and then let the calibration tool determine the native gamma. I didn't mean to give bad advice,
That is truly strange and it's definitely lying to you, but it doesn't matter as long as it looks the way it should. I mean the somewhat ubiquitous sRGB is just a little over 2.2, so most displays tend to be balanced around there whenever possible. What I meant was that I try to avoid fighting with display hardware. If the software wants to call it something other than D65, I just leave it at native, as long as I don't have a problem with it. If it was severely yellow, you wouldn't be able to correct it that way without creating other issues. Also bear in mind these things naturally shift to a degree as they age.
I hope i am doing it right. I get the apples to match the background with perfection and then when the native gamma screen pops up, It reads 1.8 as a native gamma. Do i leave it at the native or slide it to 2.2?
Yeah I wasn't saying you were going it wrong. I was saying that's a weird result. I've only played with apple's built in "calibration" app for the purpose of knowing how it works. So you line up the targets, then on the next screen it says "select a target gamma". Note my little rant about matrices above. It is taking those results, then transforming them to approximate something else. Typically I would leave that step alone and check the box that says "use native gamma" or at least I would if I thought that utility was useful. If you read the fine print on it, Apple seems to agree with me. It states
Anyone can see their words. I would also check the box for the white point. The reality is that this is an approximation, but the sliders provide very coarse control methods that I don't really think are that great. If you ever have the chance to borrow a spyder or other recent (as in no more than a couple years old) colorimeter, run the software after allowing the display to warm up for at least 30 minutes. Have any dimming functions or power management adjustments disabled. Leave it to native white point. You should get cleaner results, but you are somewhat limited by the hardware itself. As I mentioned it's partly an issue in the nature of LCD panels, but Apple could improve on what they add to it. The panels just are what they are to a degree. There are all kinds of white papers on methods of dealing with uniformity, image persistence, etc. This stuff has been discussed at great length, although much of what I've read is at least a few years old at this point.
My 4th arrived yesterday - And this time it is a keeper.
Samsung A022 panel, no dents, no white spots, no creaking and a perfect keybord
Uniformity is really ok - a litte bit of yellow at the bottom left, but at the end the deviation max. About 300K what means about 2,5 percent.
It's noticeable but does not disturb when working on that machine.
They are really out there !
Samsung A022 panel, no dents, no white spots, no creaking and a perfect keybord
Uniformity is really ok - a litte bit of yellow at the bottom left, but at the end the deviation max. About 300K what means about 2,5 percent.
It's noticeable but does not disturb when working on that machine.
They are really out there !
Hi,
I'm on the 4th unit exchange, having LG screen (A019), serial 'T' now.
Config: 2.6GHz/16GB/512GB
I didn't manage to get a good screen again unfortunately. The yellow tint, also looks much like stain, is non-uniform across the screen and is pretty evident at the bottom half of the screen and parts of the top left & right.
My main usage is photo editing, I just couldn't imagine to accept a screen that has this kind of yellow tint/stain on it..
Am still thinking hard if I should do one more exchange again..
I'm on the 4th unit exchange, having LG screen (A019), serial 'T' now.
Config: 2.6GHz/16GB/512GB
I didn't manage to get a good screen again unfortunately. The yellow tint, also looks much like stain, is non-uniform across the screen and is pretty evident at the bottom half of the screen and parts of the top left & right.
My main usage is photo editing, I just couldn't imagine to accept a screen that has this kind of yellow tint/stain on it..
Am still thinking hard if I should do one more exchange again..
hi guys i follow the exemple of gazous at max brigthness.
mine is a LG N, ordered end of november, received in december.
im coming from an ugly vaio so i cant really tell if its a keeper or not.
in my eyes i feel its decent but when i saw the pic im like mmm pretty ugly, so i need ur pro eyes on this one thanks
plz let me know if i should def return, i will really appreciate to have ur thoughts
So you can't see any defects with bare eyes, and they only come up in the pictures?
Before making any conclusions from the pictures, I suggest you take a look at the example images I posted here:
Retina display uniformity and tint
Current 13" inch screen quality
Hi guys, what is the consensus now on the prevalence of 1) non-uniformity and 2) yellow tinting on the 13" Macbook pro retinas?
I'm dropping plans for getting the 15" and am considering whether 13" would be as useful for me. Needed that gfx card for 3D work and Matlab, and a bigger screen for coding and photography, but maybe the cheaper price and portability can win me over IF the screens have no issues.
Hi guys, what is the consensus now on the prevalence of 1) non-uniformity and 2) yellow tinting on the 13" Macbook pro retinas?
I'm dropping plans for getting the 15" and am considering whether 13" would be as useful for me. Needed that gfx card for 3D work and Matlab, and a bigger screen for coding and photography, but maybe the cheaper price and portability can win me over IF the screens have no issues.
Has anyone tried a straight-up display replacement rather than getting a whole new computer? If so, how did that turn out?
There were some people on Apple Support communities who ended up with a perfectly good LG-SJA2 screen after display replacement but not sure if that's a fluke or not.
There were some people on Apple Support communities who ended up with a perfectly good LG-SJA2 screen after display replacement but not sure if that's a fluke or not.
Two display replacements on a mid-2012 15" Retina MacBook Pro. Both display replacements were yellow.
Has anybody else noticed that the yellow seems to spread?
When I first got this it seemed that the yellow was only at the left bottom corner (and almost not visible)
Now my entire left half screen is yellow while the entire right screen is pink.
Anyone else notice this?
When I first got this it seemed that the yellow was only at the left bottom corner (and almost not visible)
Now my entire left half screen is yellow while the entire right screen is pink.
Anyone else notice this?
I haven't noticed that. But I notice that the yellowing changes based on ambient light changes so I often switch the colour temperature between 7000, 7500, and 9300 as the light in the room changes in a vain attempt to avoid vomiting when I look at my $2,200 computer display. Do you notice the colour change coinciding with ambient light changes?
The gradual color change was noticed in the same room (with same lighting).
It could be just that I'm getting more used to the screen and thus I can spot the imperfections better than I could before...either way it's annoying the heck out of me.
You're proposing that the problem is the video card and not the display? That's interesting.
I tried two of the 15" rMBP I received on my external 3007WFP Monitor. Neither showed yellowing at all on the external display. I had a 750m model of rMBP.
Also people are reporting the yellow even without the 750m at all. Iris Pro model also has the issue.
Also people are reporting the yellow even without the 750m at all. Iris Pro model also has the issue.