I believe the R1811-based boards are considered the "best" but they offer functionality you are not interested in so can be quite expensive. The one listed in post #873 is cheaper but a couple of the reviews have suggested they might be less reliable (I have one of these boards and am currently testing this on my bench with no issues). Check out MacScreen Store.I know this will be perceived lazy by some, and I know where the search function isI am just hoping to get the advice from someone to say what the best conversion board for a 2017 A1419 5k seems to be ? I have a new M2 Studio Ultra and want to use one cable if possible to drive my 5k iMac. I only need 5k monitor functions, I don't need charging, speakers, webcam none of that, just full res, bit depth and brightness. Can someone weigh in with the current suggestions and maybe a vendor? I would really appreciate your advice and or experience. Thank you.
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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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A disadvantage of the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board (in post #873) is it is only 8-bit, not 10-bit capable like the more expensive H18/19, R9A18 and R1811 boards.
This is from the description of the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1:
'Type-c interface supports 5120*2880 60HZ 8bit color depth'
This is from the description of the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1:
'Type-c interface supports 5120*2880 60HZ 8bit color depth'
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I recently upgraded to a newer Mac and it’s time to upgrade from my 1080p to something better. I’m curious if any of the people who were early experimenters on diy 5k displays can comment on longevity or maintenance issues? Does it still work as well as when the project finished? Has anyone seen outright failure of any of these boards or screens? Are there any nagging problems that remind you that this is a diy project or is day to day use as uneventful as a commercial monitor?
I just finished this entire thread - cutting and pasting notes into a document as I went along. Currently, I have a MacBook Air M2 with a four year old 27" Dell 4K. Was thinking of going to 5K, but the price of a Studio Display put me off and reviews of the LG and Samsung 5K's weren't that great (and they're pretty pricey too). So - I decided to go the DIY iMac conversion route.
Last week I received my 27" 2015 Corei5 3.2GHz (with 32GB RAM!) in excellent condition for $300 shipped off ebay. Opened up the box and set it up to make sure the panel worked. It looks amazing and functions perfectly - almost too nice to tear into - but I don't need an 8 year old, 300 watt machine that barely keeps up with a 15W M2 MBA....and hopefully can recoup some of the cost by parting it out.
I'm going to take off the panel over the weekend to ensure the model number - and I think I've settled on the T18 driver board because I want a silent build (which is one of the reasons I bought the fanless MB Air). To preserve some of the iMac form, I plan to solder leads from the original power switch to the driver board remote panel. I'd also maybe like to use the original power cable and extend the wires inside to the driver board power supply plug (if I decide to keep it internal).
But nowhere I saw in this thread does anyone really describe or show how to work with the original power inlet. Any tips on extending the internal leads....or how to remove the socket cleanly? Once all my parts come in - I'll probably be back here with more questions - but hopefully not.
Last week I received my 27" 2015 Corei5 3.2GHz (with 32GB RAM!) in excellent condition for $300 shipped off ebay. Opened up the box and set it up to make sure the panel worked. It looks amazing and functions perfectly - almost too nice to tear into - but I don't need an 8 year old, 300 watt machine that barely keeps up with a 15W M2 MBA....and hopefully can recoup some of the cost by parting it out.
I'm going to take off the panel over the weekend to ensure the model number - and I think I've settled on the T18 driver board because I want a silent build (which is one of the reasons I bought the fanless MB Air). To preserve some of the iMac form, I plan to solder leads from the original power switch to the driver board remote panel. I'd also maybe like to use the original power cable and extend the wires inside to the driver board power supply plug (if I decide to keep it internal).
But nowhere I saw in this thread does anyone really describe or show how to work with the original power inlet. Any tips on extending the internal leads....or how to remove the socket cleanly? Once all my parts come in - I'll probably be back here with more questions - but hopefully not.
I havent had any problems with my r1811 board, nor with the plundered iMac screen. My main concerns with this project are
1. Worrying about the power supply
2. Worrying about the USB ports (I believe there were issues earlier in the thread with charging off the USB C port)
If you havent started this project I would suggest looking on ebay for a gutted imac, basically just the screen and housing. I've found a few between 300-400 USD more than competitive than the straight from China 'display panels', and the one I purchased had no scratches or dead pixels. There are few mods people have done earlier. Fan replacement on the boards with active cooling, connecting speakers, and routing the buttons. Best of luck!
1. Worrying about the power supply
2. Worrying about the USB ports (I believe there were issues earlier in the thread with charging off the USB C port)
If you havent started this project I would suggest looking on ebay for a gutted imac, basically just the screen and housing. I've found a few between 300-400 USD more than competitive than the straight from China 'display panels', and the one I purchased had no scratches or dead pixels. There are few mods people have done earlier. Fan replacement on the boards with active cooling, connecting speakers, and routing the buttons. Best of luck!
Quote: "I’m curious if any of the people who were early experimenters on diy 5k displays can comment on longevity or maintenance issues? Are there any nagging problems that remind you that this is a diy project or is day to day use as uneventful as a commercial monitor?"
Few of the early posters to this thread are still responding, it seems.
I think the only people who have had problems were during the assembly process, and I think there are many people who have been using these DIY displays since 2020ish when they first started to be built.
In the similar German thread - linked earlier in this thread - there are a couple of reports of failures, which I think were reportedly caused by overheating problems, using too much USB-C PD power etc.
My own R1811 build has run faultlessly every day since Easter this year (2023), and is gorgeous to look at.
But:
I don't use USB-C PD power.
I use a very efficient miniature internal 24v medical grade PSU, which is cooled by a ducted fan from a 21" iMac, so it never gets more than slightly warm. This fan has its own temp controller to keep the iMac interior cool and ventilated.
I also cool the R1811 heatsink with a temperature controller on the fan, as it never ramps up to max speed (which it could if the heatsink got too hot).
Both fans are totally inaudible at all times.
I previously used a Dell U3014E, which has been a pain to get restarted after sleep.
Using my new monitor is an absolute joy to use, much more Mac-compatible than the Dell.
Even less 'eventful than a commercial monitor...'
For me the choice of the R1811 was down to it being a v4 revision board, with seemingly the best build quality.
And having an IR remote control - which I use frequently.
Few of the early posters to this thread are still responding, it seems.
I think the only people who have had problems were during the assembly process, and I think there are many people who have been using these DIY displays since 2020ish when they first started to be built.
In the similar German thread - linked earlier in this thread - there are a couple of reports of failures, which I think were reportedly caused by overheating problems, using too much USB-C PD power etc.
My own R1811 build has run faultlessly every day since Easter this year (2023), and is gorgeous to look at.
But:
I don't use USB-C PD power.
I use a very efficient miniature internal 24v medical grade PSU, which is cooled by a ducted fan from a 21" iMac, so it never gets more than slightly warm. This fan has its own temp controller to keep the iMac interior cool and ventilated.
I also cool the R1811 heatsink with a temperature controller on the fan, as it never ramps up to max speed (which it could if the heatsink got too hot).
Both fans are totally inaudible at all times.
I previously used a Dell U3014E, which has been a pain to get restarted after sleep.
Using my new monitor is an absolute joy to use, much more Mac-compatible than the Dell.
Even less 'eventful than a commercial monitor...'
For me the choice of the R1811 was down to it being a v4 revision board, with seemingly the best build quality.
And having an IR remote control - which I use frequently.
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Quote: "...nowhere I saw in this thread does anyone really describe or show how to work with the original power inlet. Any tips on extending the internal leads....or how to remove the socket cleanly?"
The advantage of using an internal PSU and keeping the original power socket is that Apple has engineered a very effective (Regulation Complying) power smoothing circuit to prevent stray EMR leaving the case.
Chop the existing interior PSU connector plug off it, and solder on your own extension wires
(suitably insulated, and identified as to which is the Live and Neutral wire* etc etc).
Leave Apple's green earth wire as it is (connected to the pillar) and earth your new PSU to the iMac case for safety as you are using mains voltage internally.
If you want to remove anything stuck down with glue (like the power socket) just use a heat gun (hair dryer) and a spudger/lever - after removing all the screws etc.
*Use a multimeter or circuit tester to check which wire leads back to the main plug L/N pins - you need the iMac mains cable connected to the iMac case.
The advantage of using an internal PSU and keeping the original power socket is that Apple has engineered a very effective (Regulation Complying) power smoothing circuit to prevent stray EMR leaving the case.
Chop the existing interior PSU connector plug off it, and solder on your own extension wires
(suitably insulated, and identified as to which is the Live and Neutral wire* etc etc).
Leave Apple's green earth wire as it is (connected to the pillar) and earth your new PSU to the iMac case for safety as you are using mains voltage internally.
If you want to remove anything stuck down with glue (like the power socket) just use a heat gun (hair dryer) and a spudger/lever - after removing all the screws etc.
*Use a multimeter or circuit tester to check which wire leads back to the main plug L/N pins - you need the iMac mains cable connected to the iMac case.
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Thank you for the reply - it was very helpful. With all the photos/videos in this thread (and the side-linked blogs, etc), of the folks that kept the original plug intact, no one showed pictures of that step.
It's because it's so straight-forward. The leads (excl. PE) are connected to the original internal PSU with a connector. Disconnect this one and connect to your new PSU.
Excellent! Finally after 30+ pages! It looks very simple - but without tearing into the system, I wouldn't have known it. Many Thanks!It's because it's so straight-forward. The leads (excl. PE) are connected to the original internal PSU with a connector. Disconnect this one and connect to your new PSU.
After reading through most of this thread, I aim to be the next to convert my 27" i7 iMac late 2014 once I acquire the components. Leaning toward either the T18 or the latest R1811 board. Has anyone found any problems of compatibility with the late 2023 14" Macbook Pro M3 Max? I like the idea of a much-earlier post of mounting the controller board in an enclosure outside the iMac case, mounted on the back of the iMac stand, so that any problems or changes to the board or cable connections are easily accessed without having to remove screen and reopen the iMac case. I assume the 2 short internal cables for the monitor screen will reach if I open a hole or two in back of the iMac case rather than stretching the cables through the original Ram access door. Any thoughts or tips on that would be appreciated, as well as MBP M3 Max concerns.
Two other issues: I noted that one current eBay seller of the R1811 warns on their listing that their board has an issue after the screen goes into sleep mode, so it requires powering off and on to wake it up the monitor. I will avoid that version but wonder if anyone else has problems with their monitor sleep/wake modes. Also noted a long-ago post that an R1811 had fried the USB-C ports on 2 different MacBooks (an Air and a Pro), which required expensive out-of-warranty repairs on the Macbooks. I hope that is no longer an issue for anybody recently.
Two other issues: I noted that one current eBay seller of the R1811 warns on their listing that their board has an issue after the screen goes into sleep mode, so it requires powering off and on to wake it up the monitor. I will avoid that version but wonder if anyone else has problems with their monitor sleep/wake modes. Also noted a long-ago post that an R1811 had fried the USB-C ports on 2 different MacBooks (an Air and a Pro), which required expensive out-of-warranty repairs on the Macbooks. I hope that is no longer an issue for anybody recently.
Like other posters, I have had zero issues with my R1811 + 2017 set up - I love it! On a sort of unrelated note I really wish this massive thread could be broken up and out into it's own sub-forum so people didn't have to trawl through nearly 900 posts and counting!
My only regret with the upgrade project was getting a base model Mac Mini M2 because - 1. 8GB RAM really wasn't enough and 2. It only has two USB-C ports and you lose one as you can't use HDMI with 5K. I have now upgraded to an M2 Pro which is hugely better for me.
My only regret with the upgrade project was getting a base model Mac Mini M2 because - 1. 8GB RAM really wasn't enough and 2. It only has two USB-C ports and you lose one as you can't use HDMI with 5K. I have now upgraded to an M2 Pro which is hugely better for me.
I run my M1 mini with a WD D50 TB3 dock on each port. There is a 2TB SSD in each dock, and the monitor cable is daisy chained.
I have 4 further TB3 Glyph docks each with an internal SSD which can be daiy chained as required - 10 TB in total….
With the display at the end of the daisy chain.
I have 4 further TB3 Glyph docks each with an internal SSD which can be daiy chained as required - 10 TB in total….
With the display at the end of the daisy chain.
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I remember seeing this component in the iMac teardown but am wondering if you found a compatible connector, or used another method of attaching the wires? Also, how did you determine the correct polarity?It's because it's so straight-forward. The leads (excl. PE) are connected to the original internal PSU with a connector. Disconnect this one and connect to your new PSU.
edit: Another post mentioned chopping off the connector but I'd like to do the conversion without destroying any of the original parts if possible.
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I don't have the part on hand but iirc its just some soldered wires, unsoldering and soldering some new ones down would do the trick. The black wire should be the negative and the blue the positive, if unsure a continuity check is always sensable. The two pin cable is some version of molex, I dont know the specific connector though, so you could just run an adapter cable to that as well.
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I'm looking at getting a 4k iMac to turn into a monitor. I found the R9516 board (very similar to R1811, but for the 4k iMac) that's referenced in this thread. There was one poster here who tried it out, then apparently shorted out something and broke it and never posted again. Anyone else have success with the 21.5 inch 4k panel (using the R9516 board or anything else)?
PS Yeah, I know it's smaller and I could get a 5K for little more. I'm typing this on a Studio Display, and I've always found having a smaller side screen or two to be my optimal setup for productivity, and well, if you're here I don't need to sell you on the fundamental superiority of Apple displays (color, pixel density, glass>plastic, etc).
PS Yeah, I know it's smaller and I could get a 5K for little more. I'm typing this on a Studio Display, and I've always found having a smaller side screen or two to be my optimal setup for productivity, and well, if you're here I don't need to sell you on the fundamental superiority of Apple displays (color, pixel density, glass>plastic, etc).
That's definitely not a match. The pin housings are square, not round. Likely something in the same family as 6 and 8 pin GPU power connectors, which are part of the "Molex Mini-Fit Jr." series of connectors. Found the following close-up by searching for "iMac A1419 inlet"
Sorry noob question, but which charger do you guys use? Mine didn’t come with one
I have this one
I have this one
US $121.12 | For iMac A1419 A2115 5K LCD Screen Driver Board LM270QQ1 LM270QQ2 Retinal Control Motherboard 5120*2880 QQHD HDMI DP Type-c
US $121.12 | For iMac A1419 A2115 5K LCD Screen Driver Board LM270QQ1 LM270QQ2 Retinal Control Motherboard 5120*2880 QQHD HDMI DP Type-c
a.aliexpress.com
It will be for a mac mini, so I don’t need a 24v and in the future I’d like to integrate inside the iMac, atm i have ordered an universal one from amazon, the seller told me that it’s got inverted polarity (+ *-). If anyone has got a picture of their transformer, it’d be nice to compare
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The closeup image helps a lot. It looks like this is a match: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352457119033
Great if so, no need to chop off the original connector or solder together the wires.