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M97 LB repair

Hello!
Found a lot of useful information here about the repair, but i have a very strange, liquid spilled board.
It's a unibody M97 macbook white.
After cleaning it starts up with the normal topcase power button.
After starting up, solid white led on the front lights, and the laptop stops after 7 seconds. then starts itself again.
no odd activity, hdd spins.
without memory it's the same thing, not showing memory error blinks or beeps. SMC maybe not working?
The only thing i realized, that 1.05V is missing on the ceramic and tantalum capacitors under the CPU, but on the other side the big grey coil has 1.05V.
Where to llok for a short, or open component?
thanks
Zsolt
 
Finally received and replaced U6901. Now at least it's running. Thank you for all your help, just checking to see if you know all the Voltages around U6901
Here is what I have and need on U6901
1 Not Sure
2 Not sure
3 GND
4 3.25v
5 3.25v
If any one can help it would be greatly appreciated, It boots up fine works great, just will not charge. Dim green on Magsafe. 11.4 V on pins 1,2,3
3.4V on 4,6 0V 5 on battery connector.

Pin 1 and 2 should be 3.25V same as pin 4, 5. U6901 is an AND gate so when 1 and 2 are both high then pin 4 will be high. Since your pin 4 is high you seem to be OK.

U6901 now applies VCC (power) to U6900 which should now pass through the SYS_ONEWIRE signal to the center pin of your magsafe. So you should see about 3V on the magsafe center pin.

If you still don't have green light on Magsafe then it means that the SMC is not communicating with the charger. But all of the right things have happened to allow that communications path with ISL6259 charger and U6901/U6900.

Maybe check the resistance on SYS_ONEWIRE to ground? Maybe it is shorted.
 
According to Intersil they are the same. The last numbers and letters are package designators.
Thanks mac-n-sauce, this is what I thought too but when I messaged the sellers they replied that their IC would not be compatible. I'm not sure if they were just unsure and wanted to avoid any possible complications.

I'm hoping Dadioh will confirm this as he mentioned he has replaced quite a few of these.
 
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Thanks mac-n-sauce, this is what I thought too but when I messaged the sellers they replied that their IC would not be compatible. I'm not sure if they were just unsure and wanted to avoid any possible complications.

I'm hoping Dadioh will confirm this as he mentioned he has replaced quite a few of these.

Well I photographed the last 2 that I have in the strip of 10 I bought and they have different trailing numbers. Probably some sort of date code that you can ignore. The important bit is i6259AFHRTZ.
 

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Well I photographed the last 2 that I have in the strip of 10 I bought and they have different trailing numbers. Probably some sort of date code that you can ignore. The important bit is i6259AFHRTZ.

Thank you Dadioh, I was going crazy trying to match the last digits/letters! It didnt make sense to me because the other two mid 2010 mbp I have all had dif digits/letters on the bottom too. Anyway, I just placed an order should be at my shop by sat.
 
Just got a 2011 15" macbook pro with mild liquid damage. Boots fine, but no wifi and keyboard stuck on caps. I know I need to replace keyboard. Is there a way to test what part is wrong with the wifi? The computer says no hardware installed. There was liquid(soda) around the connector at the logic board. The blue tooth does work however. I have cleaned the connector and there does not appear to be any damage to any of the pins(burning, etc)
 
Just got a 2011 15" macbook pro with mild liquid damage. Boots fine, but no wifi and keyboard stuck on caps. I know I need to replace keyboard. Is there a way to test what part is wrong with the wifi? The computer says no hardware installed. There was liquid(soda) around the connector at the logic board. The blue tooth does work however. I have cleaned the connector and there does not appear to be any damage to any of the pins(burning, etc)

Hi,

Have you already clean the logic board?
 
Just got a 2011 15" macbook pro with mild liquid damage. Boots fine, but no wifi and keyboard stuck on caps. I know I need to replace keyboard. Is there a way to test what part is wrong with the wifi? The computer says no hardware installed. There was liquid(soda) around the connector at the logic board. The blue tooth does work however. I have cleaned the connector and there does not appear to be any damage to any of the pins(burning, etc)

Check to make sure you are getting power to the wifi circuit. A fairly common issue is the ferrite filter on the power blows. If power is ok then check the signals resistance to ground vs a known good board. The cable is also a common fault so you could try another cable and or wifi card. Easiest thing is to plug in the cable with another display and if that works then it is not the logic board.

Good luck
 
That is correct. As long as the system has power from some source then G3Hot is on and those i2c busses are pulled up to 3.4V. Sounds like your pullups are OK. Whether the SMC/Battery/Charger are properly communicating is a more difficult thing to assess without a scope to see the communications.

Did a reflow for smc and resoldered the resistors(?) around the smc, still nothing. Noticed that when i put the laptop to sleep, it doesn't wake up without dc power, but as soon as i connect the cable, the image is restored instantly.
 
While waiting for my U7000 to arrive I decided to take the old one off/clean up the pads and re mount it. Everything went great but I still wasn't getting anything on Pin 3.

I went around to all of the Resistors to make sure they were all functioning still after heating the board and I noticed R7011 was no longer showing any resistance.

Is there anywhere that allows you to buy just one of these ( SMD resistor 1% 0402 9.31k 0402)? or should I be looking at a assorted kit like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-SMT-0402-RoHS-1-144-values-assorted-resistor-kit-filled-BOX-ALL-Organizer-/281038077936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item416f2cbff0?
 
While waiting for my U7000 to arrive I decided to take the old one off/clean up the pads and re mount it. Everything went great but I still wasn't getting anything on Pin 3.

I went around to all of the Resistors to make sure they were all functioning still after heating the board and I noticed R7011 was no longer showing any resistance.

Is there anywhere that allows you to buy just one of these ( SMD resistor 1% 0402 9.31k 0402)? or should I be looking at a assorted kit like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-SMT-0402-RoHS-1-144-values-assorted-resistor-kit-filled-BOX-ALL-Organizer-/281038077936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item416f2cbff0?
Digikey.com, they do ten for $8.30

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Check to make sure you are getting power to the wifi circuit. A fairly common issue is the ferrite filter on the power blows. If power is ok then check the signals resistance to ground vs a known good board. The cable is also a common fault so you could try another cable and or wifi card. Easiest thing is to plug in the cable with another display and if that works then it is not the logic board.

Good luck
Thanks, do you or anyone have the schematic for this model? 820-2915

How exactly to I test for power? Am I looking for the 3.3v on one of the pins on the logic board?
 
Digikey.com, they do ten for $8.30

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Thanks, do you or anyone have the schematic for this model? 820-2915

How exactly to I test for power? Am I looking for the 3.3v on one of the pins on the logic board?

Do you have the link because I only saw lots of 1000? Also, here is the 820-2915 shcem you wanted.
 

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Ok, i am getting 3.3v power on pin 27.
Not sure how to test resistance to ground on the signal line.

Remove power cord and unplug battery so that logic board is completely unpowered.

Place black lead of multimeter on a ground point (screw mounting points are good).

Then place red lead on the pin that you want to measure. If you have an autoranging meter then it will give you a readout no matter what the resistance is. If you have a meter that requires you to select a range then start at lowest range and work up until you get a stable reading.

I often characterize the resistance to ground on all pins of some of the critical devices like WLED driver, charger, power chips. That way when I have a questionable board I can compare to known good board to help isolate the issue to a particular pin or pins.
 
Remove power cord and unplug battery so that logic board is completely unpowered.

Place black lead of multimeter on a ground point (screw mounting points are good).

Then place red lead on the pin that you want to measure. If you have an autoranging meter then it will give you a readout no matter what the resistance is. If you have a meter that requires you to select a range then start at lowest range and work up until you get a stable reading.

I often characterize the resistance to ground on all pins of some of the critical devices like WLED driver, charger, power chips. That way when I have a questionable board I can compare to known good board to help isolate the issue to a particular pin or pins.

Thank you, that makes complete sense. I hope you know how appreciated you are on this forum!

Given that there is power would that mean that it could be cable or wifi card itself?
If not and it is the ferrite filter, what will be the effect from a measurement standpoint?
 
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