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wordoflife

macrumors 604
Jul 6, 2009
7,564
37
Good choice. I've got an SNK809 as well and it's a great little watch. I hated the original nylon strap though as it really irritated my wrist so I bought a cheap bracelet for it and it's really comfortable now and looks great on it.

Image

Yeah the strap is pretty terrible as its already starting to go bad. Not to mention it's pretty uncomfortable too. Your watch looks pretty good with that bracelet, btw.
 

MacRy

macrumors 601
Apr 2, 2004
4,351
6,278
England
Interesting tourbillon there but I am not sure if Chinese tourbillons are functionally similar to the Swiss tourbillons.

Chinese tourbillon
http://youtu.be/gNVIy6V4sPs

Tourbillon by A. Lange & sohne
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4vtLM7kBME

Maybe they work in similar ways but the traditional tourbillons are hand-made, finished and take a very long time to make with many parts by a highly skilled watchmaker.

LOL. They are exactly the same in functionality and have just as many parts as their high end (expensive) cousins. Just because they don't costs £20k+ doesn't mean that they are not functionally the same basic movement.

I totally agree that the level of craftsmanship and care that goes into the likes of a Patek or Lange tourbillon will be stunning and a real work of art, but that doesn't detract from the fact that the Chinese versions are any less sophisticated or remarkable. Sure, the Chinese variants will have some automated machined parts, but they will will be hand assembled by some poor sod earning about £10 per month which is one of the reasons why they are able to manufacture them so cheaply. Just like the Apple goodies that we all enjoy.

There is a Swiss watch company called Cecil Purnell who used to use Liaoning 5010 ebauches (same movement in my tourbillon) for their tourbillons and charged $22k+ for them. They finished them in house and put a massive markup on them because that's what you can do if you produce watches from Basel or Glasshutte. Was the extra finessing of the movements worth a 4x markup on the original? Probably not, but those geographical areas are perceived as higher quality because that's what they have been successfully marketed as being by high end brands in the watch industry. The Chinese tourbillon was clearly good enough and "real" enough for them to pass off as Swiss though.

Don't get me wrong - I would give my right arm for a Patek/JLC/Breguet tourbillon as they are stunning watches and have the cache and history to go some way to justifying their ridiculous pricing. It doesn't mean that other parts of the world aren't making interesting and important movements though. Grand Seiko is prime example of how far an Asian watch manufacturer has come compared to how they were originally perceived. Another would be the Seagull watch company, which is a very well respected Chinese brand that produces some excellent movements that are very favourably compared to their ETA counterparts. They are the fourth largest manufacturer of mechanical watch movements in the world and make some excellent watches (i've got one on the way from them at the moment which will be posted here in a week or so).

Don't let the high end brands fool you into thinking that only they can make complicated and important watches. Price doesn't always mean fake.
 

SHNXX

macrumors 68000
Oct 2, 2013
1,901
663
LOL. They are exactly the same in functionality and have just as many parts as their high end (expensive) cousins. Just because they don't costs £20k+ doesn't mean that they are not functionally the same basic movement.



I totally agree that the level of craftsmanship and care that goes into the likes of a Patek or Lange tourbillon will be stunning and a real work of art, but that doesn't detract from the fact that the Chinese versions are any less sophisticated or remarkable. Sure, the Chinese variants will have some automated machined parts, but they will will be hand assembled by some poor sod earning about £10 per month which is one of the reasons why they are able to manufacture them so cheaply. Just like the Apple goodies that we all enjoy.



There is a Swiss watch company called Cecil Purnell who used to use Liaoning 5010 ebauches (same movement in my tourbillon) for their tourbillons and charged $22k+ for them. They finished them in house and put a massive markup on them because that's what you can do if you produce watches from Basel or Glasshutte. Was the extra finessing of the movements worth a 4x markup on the original? Probably not, but those geographical areas are perceived as higher quality because that's what they have been successfully marketed as being by high end brands in the watch industry. The Chinese tourbillon was clearly good enough and "real" enough for them to pass off as Swiss though.



Don't get me wrong - I would give my right arm for a Patek/JLC/Breguet tourbillon as they are stunning watches and have the cache and history to go some way to justifying their ridiculous pricing. It doesn't mean that other parts of the world aren't making interesting and important movements though. Grand Seiko is prime example of how far an Asian watch manufacturer has come compared to how they were originally perceived. Another would be the Seagull watch company, which is a very well respected Chinese brand that produces some excellent movements that are very favourably compared to their ETA counterparts. They are the fourth largest manufacturer of mechanical watch movements in the world and make some excellent watches (i've got one on the way from them at the moment which will be posted here in a week or so).



Don't let the high end brands fool you into thinking that only they can make complicated and important watches. Price doesn't always mean fake.


Do you have any source for that?
As far as I understand it, tourbillons are mostly anachronistic in that they were originally designed to compensate for the way pocket watches stayed most time in one position.

The counter argument for this is that accuracy contests are still routinely won by watches that feature tourbillons.
So it seems that Swiss tourbillons of the grande complication variety from Patek, JLC, Lange and breguet are still somewhat functionally relevant while being beautiful but I haven't seen much evidence that the Chinese tourbillons also give this benefit for wrist watches.
 

cdcastillo

macrumors 68000
Dec 22, 2007
1,714
2,672
The cesspit of civilization
Great one!!

Mee too!! It's the new Metro from Nomos. It's the first with their new proprietary in-house developed movement.
They haven't yet included it on their catalog, you have to ask for it specifically.

It's really elegant and beautiful. I want it even more than the omega seamaster aqua terra >15,000 gauss

+1

Have my eye on this piece:

metro_raum01.jpg
 

MacRy

macrumors 601
Apr 2, 2004
4,351
6,278
England
Do you have any source for that?
As far as I understand it, tourbillons are mostly anachronistic in that they were originally designed to compensate for the way pocket watches stayed most time in one position.

The counter argument for this is that accuracy contests are still routinely won by watches that feature tourbillons.
So it seems that Swiss tourbillons of the grande complication variety from Patek, JLC, Lange and breguet are still somewhat functionally relevant while being beautiful but I haven't seen much evidence that the Chinese tourbillons also give this benefit for wrist watches.

Unfortunately Breguet's theories about the effects of gravity may not have a great deal of merit to them and the truth of the matter is that a decent chronometer will perform the same (if not better) as a tourbillon in terms of accuracy.

The fact that the most accurate watches in these competitions have tourbillons in them is, no doubt, also down to the fact that the watches themselves are built to very high standards and tolerances.

Tourbillons have, for a long time now, been regarded as a symbol of craftsmanship and luxury, as they are so complicated to make and beautiful to look at. They have been marketed as something that only high end watch manufacturers can produce and that was the case for a long time until Chinese manufacturers began to produce their own.

The Chinese variants may not be as accurate as the likes of AP/PP/etc. but that is more likely down to the overall quality of the watch itself and not due to the fact that the tourbillon is in any way functionally different (they aren't). In much the same way that a £50 Seiko 5 may not be as accurate as a £5,500 Rolex Datejust. They both use an automatic movement, which is basically the same design, but one is mass produced for cost and the other is a Seiko ;) (kidding). I have an Orient Bambino watch that has an in-house Japanese automatic movement and it keeps time to within +/-3secs a day. That's within COSC standards and yet it only cost me £150, how is that functionally different to an in-house Swiss watch that costs £10K?

Here are some links that you might find interesting regarding Tourbillons, which also have some information about the influx of Chinese versions.

Rinky dink link 1
Rinky dink link 2
Rinky dink link 3

----------

Mee too!! It's the new Metro from Nomos. It's the first with their new proprietary in-house developed movement.
They haven't yet included it on their catalog, you have to ask for it specifically.

It's really elegant and beautiful. I want it even more than the omega seamaster aqua terra >15,000 gauss

I love those Nomos watches. I will have a Tangente one day!
 

MacRy

macrumors 601
Apr 2, 2004
4,351
6,278
England
Took a few pics of some of mine yesterday as I was bored.
Orient Mako
14826945851_63c424b0f5_b.jpg

14829657222_7cd9f85cf9_b.jpg

Orient Bambino
14827653514_4518e77381_b.jpg

Oris wrist alarm
14643361399_f76c190ae3_b.jpg
 

adversus

macrumors regular
Sep 11, 2009
164
18
Portland, OR
Citizen Endeavor Eco-Drive.

Great watch for the price. Never again having to replace a watch battery, hooray. It replaced a Bulova Marine Star (which I still have).
 

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SHNXX

macrumors 68000
Oct 2, 2013
1,901
663
Unfortunately Breguet's theories about the effects of gravity may not have a great deal of merit to them and the truth of the matter is that a decent chronometer will perform the same (if not better) as a tourbillon in terms of accuracy.

The fact that the most accurate watches in these competitions have tourbillons in them is, no doubt, also down to the fact that the watches themselves are built to very high standards and tolerances.

Tourbillons have, for a long time now, been regarded as a symbol of craftsmanship and luxury, as they are so complicated to make and beautiful to look at. They have been marketed as something that only high end watch manufacturers can produce and that was the case for a long time until Chinese manufacturers began to produce their own.

The Chinese variants may not be as accurate as the likes of AP/PP/etc. but that is more likely down to the overall quality of the watch itself and not due to the fact that the tourbillon is in any way functionally different (they aren't). In much the same way that a £50 Seiko 5 may not be as accurate as a £5,500 Rolex Datejust. They both use an automatic movement, which is basically the same design, but one is mass produced for cost and the other is a Seiko ;) (kidding). I have an Orient Bambino watch that has an in-house Japanese automatic movement and it keeps time to within +/-3secs a day. That's within COSC standards and yet it only cost me £150, how is that functionally different to an in-house Swiss watch that costs £10K?

Here are some links that you might find interesting regarding Tourbillons, which also have some information about the influx of Chinese versions.

Rinky dink link 1
Rinky dink link 2
Rinky dink link 3

----------



I love those Nomos watches. I will have a Tangente one day!


Ariel Adams is a good source of watch reviews but I'm not sure if he is in position to pontificate about accuracy of tourbillons as he is not a watchmaker or a mechanical engineer (is he?)

The articles you posted are interesting but he doesn't seem to have much reference for the claims regarding tourbillon's inability to improve accuracy.

Granted, I suppose the main reason people buy tourbillons these days, like any mechanical watch, is for the artistic and artisan aspect, not for accuracy so perhaps it's all a moot point.

Personally I would like to buy a tourbillon from Patek or Breguet or JLC some day.
Regardless of their accuracy improvements, they are reallly mesmerizing to look at.
 

MacRy

macrumors 601
Apr 2, 2004
4,351
6,278
England
Ariel Adams is a good source of watch reviews but I'm not sure if he is in position to pontificate about accuracy of tourbillons as he is not a watchmaker or a mechanical engineer (is he?)

I would say he's in a perfect position to comment on such things considering he is one of the worlds leading bloggers on watches and it's his job to review and comment on the watch industry. He obviously has a lot of experience with all kinds of watches having been doing it for major publications for the last five years.

I can see that there is no changing your mind so we will agree to disagree but both agree that we would like to own a nice Patek :)
 

SHNXX

macrumors 68000
Oct 2, 2013
1,901
663
Who's got a nice watch?

I would say he's in a perfect position to comment on such things considering he is one of the worlds leading bloggers on watches and it's his job to review and comment on the watch industry. He obviously has a lot of experience with all kinds of watches having been doing it for major publications for the last five years.



I can see that there is no changing your mind so we will agree to disagree but both agree that we would like to own a nice Patek :)


I would come to not believe the conventional thinking that tourbillons compensate for gravity's effects and improve accuracy if I saw either of these two types of evidence:

1) time error measurements which show that under similar condition of manufacture, tourbillon doesn't produce more accurate watches (no such evidence has ever been produced by anyone I've seen; only evidence to the contrary)

2) renowned watchmakers (like FP Journe) who denounce the claims that tourbillons improve accuracy.

Ariel Adams is a blogger with no special insight into the technical aspects of watchmaking.
I would trust him more than random people for sure but if it's Ariel Adams vs the manufacture claims of the entire Swiss watch industry, I'm not sure if I would trust him.
 

MacRy

macrumors 601
Apr 2, 2004
4,351
6,278
England
Ariel Adams is a blogger with no special insight into the technical aspects of watchmaking.
I would trust him more than random people for sure but if it's Ariel Adams vs the manufacture claims of the entire Swiss watch industry, I'm not sure if I would trust him.


Personally I would trust someone with an independent view of the watch industry rather than the claims of a multi billion dollar watch manufacturer which has an agenda of sales and prestige to uphold. Particularly an industry that insists upon changing the rules of the International Chronometry competition so that they can remain anonymous in case they don't win and that doesn't allow manufacturers outside of Europe to compete after Japanese watches took some of the top spots a few years back!

http://www.watch-around.com/index.php?id=12&L=1&tx_ttnews[tt_news]=2063&cHash=7132de542e052fb14940ee3a75cb400d

Interestingly, at previous competitions the top manufacturers only submitted Tourbillon movements, which is why they won the top three places. I note that they didn't enter any of their non Tourbillon models. Probably because that would show the real differences I guess.

A top tier Swiss watchmaker is never going to say that a Tourbillon offers no discernible performance improvements over one of their standard movements. Not when they can charge ten times the price for the Tourbillon version. Sure, the Tourbillon is more complicated to make and an attractive thing to have, but they have cleverly marketed them as offering more accuracy. Basic science tells us that the effects of gravity can be negated with the movement of the wrist on a wristwatch, so the Tourbillon is redundant when not in a pocket watch.
 
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Washac

macrumors 68030
Jul 2, 2006
2,529
132
Never seen the point in watches, even more so today, waste of money, have not got one, do not want one.
 

Scepticalscribe

macrumors Haswell
Jul 29, 2008
65,199
47,585
In a coffee shop.
Never seen the point in watches, even more so today, waste of money, have not got one, do not want one.

And you have taken the time - the valuable time - out of your life to choose to post this insight in a watch thread?


Well thanks for your valuable contribution to a watch thread.

Exactly. Agreed.

Some of us like the physical beauty of certain watches, especially the well made exquisitely crafted ones. And I have long been fascinated by how humans have decided to record and represent the passing of time.

So, yes, I always wear a watch, and love to do so.
 

Limey77

macrumors regular
Apr 22, 2010
120
989
Thought I would add to this thread, here's my daily wearer for the last 21 years. An oldie, but in my mind a classic, the Tag Heuer Link.
 

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