clip (snap rivet) for Northbridge heat-sink on 2009 Mac Pro 2X2.26

[Macschrauber]

I do not see burn in effects, maybe because I use the spread method.

Nice tool for spreading is the PCI bracket Always handy and it does not bent

 

[tu2thepoo]

I just want to chime in with how we fix it on the tech team that I'm on. Zip ties. These break all the time.

Of all the ideas in this thread, this seemed the most likely to end up with a broken logic board. So naturally I had to try it!

First, for anyone new to mucking about with the Mac Pro heatsink, you need a long 2.5mm Allen key. Use it to loosen the five screws holding down the heatsink (you can't lose the screws, so just go until it stops spinning easily):


The IOH/chipset heatsink sits under the main heatsink, so you can see why the BOOSTA fan setting can greatly affect the chipset temperature:


The spring rivets in question are circled here:


First remove the standoff screws:

and you can see the backside of the logic board where the rivets stick out:

Now, I may have gotten some later-manufactured model or the original owner wasn't too hard on the Mac Pro, but my rivets were actually in great shape. I had to clip them with scissors for the purpose of this tutorial/my curiosity.

Wipe off the grease from the CPU and chipset heatsinks, and from the CPU and IOH chipset. I know some people use industrial degreasers and fancy arctic silver removal whatevers, but I've used a paper towel, Q-tips, and rubbing alcohol since I was mucking around with lidless AMD Athlons and Slot I Pentium IIs so it'll be fine here. Anyway, it should look kinda like this when you're done:



Then apply new heatsink grease to both the IOH chipset and the CPU. You do NOT need to apply it to the actual heatsinks.

Now stick one zip tie through one hole and another through the second hole, and lock them together. It'll look stupid and like it couldn't possibly work, but don't knock it till you try it...

(clip the excess zip tie like twerpin said)

Here's the funny thing - all this malarkey actually lowered my CPU/IOH temperatures. My CPU diode usually hovers around 70-80C under load (this is after already changing the CPU heatsink grease once), and the IOH diode anywhere from 70C-90C depending on how aggressively I set the BOOSTA fan.

Here's the temperatures under load (handbrake x265 encode), and all automatic fan control:

Setting the exhaust/intake/boostA profiles more aggressively (CPU diode, min/max 50C/90C) only lowers the temps a few more degrees:


So I'm guessing most of the benefit is cleaning out the 10-year-old heatsink grease that the Mac Pro originally shipped with. Anyway, wouldn't recommend doing this unless you absolutely have to. Even 70-80C is well within the tolerances for the chipset.

That said, I was able to turn down all of the fan settings in Mac Fan Control, so my Mac is even quieter than before!

 

[TzunamiOSX]

What the hell...

WHY, are you don't use 2 screws and the original springs? Your construction is a punch in my face.

Polyamids 6.6 at 70°C over long time? = Bad idea!

 

[tsialex]

6.6 at 70°C over long time? = Bad idea!

One day the springs just snapped with my office MP4,1. I've bought a pack of Chinese ones to replace and I've used a lot of on Mac minis 1,1/2,1 CPU heatsink, four used there. They just crumble.

 

[pastrychef]

Of all the ideas in this thread, this seemed the most likely to end up with a broken logic board. So naturally I had to try it!

First, for anyone new to mucking about with the Mac Pro heatsink, you need a long 2.5mm Allen key. Use it to loosen the five screws holding down the heatsink (you can't lose the screws, so just go until it stops spinning easily):
View attachment 773471

The IOH/chipset heatsink sits under the main heatsink, so you can see why the BOOSTA fan setting can greatly affect the chipset temperature:
View attachment 773476

The spring rivets in question are circled here:
View attachment 773472

First remove the standoff screws:
View attachment 773474
and you can see the backside of the logic board where the rivets stick out:
View attachment 773475
Now, I may have gotten some later-manufactured model or the original owner wasn't too hard on the Mac Pro, but my rivets were actually in great shape. I had to clip them with scissors for the purpose of this tutorial/my curiosity.

Wipe off the grease from the CPU and chipset heatsinks, and from the CPU and IOH chipset. I know some people use industrial degreasers and fancy arctic silver removal whatevers, but I've used a paper towel, Q-tips, and rubbing alcohol since I was mucking around with lidless AMD Athlons and Slot I Pentium IIs so it'll be fine here. Anyway, it should look kinda like this when you're done:

View attachment 773477

Then apply new heatsink grease to both the IOH chipset and the CPU. You do NOT need to apply it to the actual heatsinks.

Now stick one zip tie through one hole and another through the second hole, and lock them together. It'll look stupid and like it couldn't possibly work, but don't knock it till you try it...
View attachment 773478
(clip the excess zip tie like twerpin said)

Here's the funny thing - all this malarkey actually lowered my CPU/IOH temperatures. My CPU diode usually hovers around 70-80C under load (this is after already changing the CPU heatsink grease once), and the IOH diode anywhere from 70C-90C depending on how aggressively I set the BOOSTA fan.

Here's the temperatures under load (handbrake x265 encode), and all automatic fan control:
View attachment 773470
Setting the exhaust/intake/boostA profiles more aggressively (CPU diode, min/max 50C/90C) only lowers the temps a few more degrees:
View attachment 773469

So I'm guessing most of the benefit is cleaning out the 10-year-old heatsink grease that the Mac Pro originally shipped with. Anyway, wouldn't recommend doing this unless you absolutely have to. Even 70-80C is well within the tolerances for the chipset.

That said, I was able to turn down all of the fan settings in Mac Fan Control, so my Mac is even quieter than before!

If I were to use zip ties to mount a heatsink, I would have used this method:


Use two zip ties for each mounting hole.

 

[tu2thepoo]

If I were to use zip ties to mount a heatsink, I would have used this method:
View attachment 773726

Use two zip ties for each mounting hole.

That’s probably the better way to do it, I just figured “F it” when I got to that point I’ll replace it with proper spring rivets when I sell it in a year or two.

 

[Gregman1]

I have this same issue with my 2009 early MacPro and after reading this whole thread as well as any and all links I ordered everything I need to repair including a 2.5mm 9" long hex key only to find out that 2.5 is not the correct size and seems to be too small. Does anyone know what the actual size of the heads are on the bolts? Mine just spins inside the bolt head and not loosening anything.

 

[tsialex]

I have this same issue with my 2009 early MacPro and after reading this whole thread as well as any and all links I ordered everything I need to repair including a 2.5mm 9" long hex key only to find out that 2.5 is not the correct size and seems to be too small. Does anyone know what the actual size of the heads are on the bolts? Mine just spins inside the bolt head and not loosening anything.

It's 3mm. Page 172 http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/macpro/macpro_mid2010.pdf

 

[Dr. Stealth]

I have this same issue with my 2009 early MacPro and after reading this whole thread as well as any and all links I ordered everything I need to repair including a 2.5mm 9" long hex key only to find out that 2.5 is not the correct size and seems to be too small. Does anyone know what the actual size of the heads are on the bolts? Mine just spins inside the bolt head and not loosening anything.

My 5,1 2010 uses a 3mm hex wrench. Not sure if the 2009 is the same.

 

[Gregman1]

Thanks guys for the quick responses! I found a 3mm here that was long enough (barely) and got it opened up, replaced the one missing rivet, cleaned up the old thermal paste. Question now is - should I break off the old intact rivet and replace that one as well and how much thermal paste do I reapply??

 

[Macschrauber]

2.5mm was G5 afair

 

[pastrychef]

Thanks guys for the quick responses! I found a 3mm here that was long enough (barely) and got it opened up, replaced the one missing rivet, cleaned up the old thermal paste. Question now is - should I break off the old intact rivet and replace that one as well and how much thermal paste do I reapply??

If it were me, I would replace both rivets while I have everything out. It's just a matter of time before the second rivet breaks.

General rule of thumb for thermal compound is to apply a very, very thin layer on the chip. Just enough to cover the entire chip.

 

[Matty_TypeR]

Now stick one zip tie through one hole and another through the second hole, and lock them together. It'll look stupid and like it couldn't possibly work, but don't knock it till you try it...

(clip the excess zip tie like twerpin said)

I don't like this idea at all, looks like a proper bodge job.

this method is much better and you can always use some shrink tube over the bolt up to where the nut tightens offering electrical insulation.
[doublepost=1536498698][/doublepost]

Mine just broke by itself 2days ago cause my machine to freeze and i notice it from i-stat that my IOH T-diode temp was stay at 128'C.
I remove 2 of the pin form an only PC mono and replace the pin and hit another problem.
My Booster B fan was spinning at Max speed and i notice i-status shoe Booster B 0RPM i guess while i remove the heatsink it might had either damage the fan sensor or broken wire. damn.. ! i've hunt for a replacement CPU-B heatsink and notice the heatsink was at USD380 at Applecomponent. Any guru might be able to help here be nice.

this method is much better

 

[DPUser]

The eBay Chinese rivets work great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-PC-Heatsink-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-Spring-Rivet-Fastener-Push-Pin-Mounting-Screw/121074044779?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=52935&meid=379fe4565c9345e397b5a2e4035f9f55&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=12&mehot=pp&sd=183373709915&itm=121074044779&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

There are other sellers that charge even less.

Just clip the extra top off both the peg and the spring sheath on the one that fits under the heatsink. I used a pair of diagonal wire cutters.

The bolt and spring method also looks solid.

And, yes, replace both rivets while you're at it.

 

[DIY_glenn]

I've used nuts and bolts for a few years, but I'm about to replace the CPU with X5690. Ordered the rivets from the post before me and will replace them at the same time.

There must be a reason why it's plastic in the first place.
- Or it could be easier for assembly, being able to assemble without any nuts.

 

[atonaldenim]

If I were to use zip ties to mount a heatsink, I would have used this method:
View attachment 773726

Use two zip ties for each mounting hole.

Earlier this year I was able to temporarily resurrect a 2009 Mac Pro with snapped northbridge heatsink clip using zip ties in that cleaner arrangement. After replacing all the crusty dried thermal paste with some fresh Arctic MX-2 non-metallic thermal paste, the Mac Pro ran without issue for about 6 months. Then, recently, the same symptoms started happening again - shutting down just a few seconds after powering up.

This time I ordered the Chinese plastic spring rivets from ebay, they took about two weeks to arrive, I've just installed them and with some fresh thermal paste the system is running normally again. I used a diagonal cutter to snip off the top of the rivet that lives underneath the CPU heatsink, the plastic was fairly soft.

I notice that the plastic rivets hold the heatsink more tightly against the northbridge chip than the zip ties did. With the zip tie method I could wiggle the heatsink around slightly even when it was zipped as tightly as possible. The problem with zip ties is they are stepped, you can only zip them as tight as the nearest notch. By contrast, the spring rivets don't seem to allow the heatsink any wiggle room when installed, it sits tightly. I'm guessing the tiny bit of extra space allowed by the zip ties led to the thermal paste drying out and losing its effectiveness.

My advice would be to avoid zip ties, except as a temporary patch until you can get proper spring rivets as the designers intended.

 

[h9826790]

Earlier this year I was able to temporarily resurrect a 2009 Mac Pro with snapped northbridge heatsink clip using zip ties in that cleaner arrangement. After replacing all the crusty dried thermal paste with some fresh Arctic MX-2 non-metallic thermal paste, the Mac Pro ran without issue for about 6 months. Then, recently, the same symptoms started happening again - shutting down just a few seconds after powering up.

This time I ordered the Chinese plastic spring rivets from ebay, they took about two weeks to arrive, I've just installed them and with some fresh thermal paste the system is running normally again. I used a diagonal cutter to snip off the top of the rivet that lives underneath the CPU heatsink, the plastic was fairly soft.

I notice that the plastic rivets hold the heatsink more tightly against the northbridge chip than the zip ties did. With the zip tie method I could wiggle the heatsink around slightly even when it was zipped as tightly as possible. The problem with zip ties is they are stepped, you can only zip them as tight as the nearest notch. By contrast, the spring rivets don't seem to allow the heatsink any wiggle room when installed, it sits tightly. I'm guessing the tiny bit of extra space allowed by the zip ties led to the thermal paste drying out and losing its effectiveness.

My advice would be to avoid zip ties, except as a temporary patch until you can get proper spring rivets as the designers intended.

When using zip-tie, you can put a little piece of eraser as the “spring” to fix that “notch limitation”.

But you have the new rivet already, no need this work around any more.

 

[vonkas]

The booster fan (BOOST A for dual CPU) is responsible for Northbridge cooling. Much better to speed this up - and quieter tan exhaust.

Increased IOH Heatsink temperature with PCIe SATA boards

Hi,

I have two ATTO Tech SAS H608 cards installed in my Mac Pro with eight Samsung 1TB SSD, four of each in the two CD ROM bays, and each configured as RAID 0 software raid.

http://www.attotech.com/products/product.php?scat=27&prod=9&sku=ESAS-H608-000

I noticed that the IOH and IOH heatsink temperature increases significantly (from 60C to 85C) when I add ATTO Tech SATA cards for software RAID over four SSDs, especially when in heavy use, causing system freezes and instabilities. When I increase the fan speeds (exhaust fan) the system instabilities go away.

Has anyone noticed this? Does this makes even sense.

By the way, I have reseated my IOH Heatsink using simple Nylon screws and bolts on the bottom. Because they are nylon, they are sufficiently flexible to create a soft tension without too much pressure on the chip.

Thank You!

 

[itdk92]

I have recently had a Blackmagic decklink 4k card in my hands and noticed the extremely nice rivets it uses for its heatsink, and wondered whether they can be found loose.

I don’t have a picture of the other side, but they look super functional and sleek.

 

[MIKX]

In my case Apple had put some kid of "Loktite" bolt / nut thread adhesive on the bolts but using Australian Eucalyptus oil I was able to emulsify that !
Now I can tighten or undo the bolts without any resistance = I can honestly and accurately count how many turns it took to UNDO the cpu heatsinks.

If you have an accurate torque wrench. . ignore this post. If you don't . . buy a 5,1 the 4,1 CPU upgrade is fraught with danger. The 5,1 is a breeze comparatively.

 

[ArasB]

Does anyone know if the Northbridge on a 3,1 is the same as a 5,1? There is a fancy new heatsink on ebay for the 2008 3,1 macpro that looks pretty badass compared to the factory one as a option.
https://www.ebay.com/i/252019958219?chn=ps
Cheers,
Aras

 

[tsialex]

It's the standard northbridge heatsink for 2008 Mac Pro. Only fits MP3,1.

 

[crjackson2134]

Forgive my ignorance with the next question. I’ve never serviced the HS on my NorthBridge, so this is just a thought exercise.

Apparently it’s quite common for these fasteners to fail after sometime, and render the cMP useless until repaired.

Couldn’t you put an adhesive thermal compound on the chip during the repair, that would permanently affix the HS to the chip? In this way, if the fastener failed, I would think it would prevent a need to replace the rivet again.

I have no experience with these compounds, so maybe it’s not feasible at all. Just curious... It seems like (if that could work) it would be a better solution than zip ties.

 

[tsialex]

Forgive my ignorance with the next question. I’ve never serviced the HS on my NorthBridge, so this is just a thought exercise.

Apparently it’s quite common for these fasteners to fail after sometime, and render the cMP useless until repaired.

Couldn’t you put an adhesive thermal compound on the chip during the repair, that would permanently affix the HS to the chip? In this way, if the fastener failed, I would think it would prevent a need to replace the rivet again.

I have no experience with these compounds, so maybe it’s not feasible at all. Just curious... It seems like (if that could work) it would be a better solution than zip ties.

You could do, sure, but the chipset die is so small that it probably won't keep it fixated for long. My personal preference is to use rivets again, with adhesives and exposed dies you risk damage when you want to remove the heatsink to clean up. I already damage a PC motherboard because of this.

 

[w1z]

You could do, sure, but the chipset die is so small that it probably won't keep it fixated for long. My personal preference is to use rivets again, with adhesives and exposed dies you risk damage when you want to remove the heatsink to clean up. I already damage a PC motherboard because of this.

I agree. In addition, adhesive thermal compound has worse thermal conductivity than regular paste. Either go with quality long life thermal paste or an IC carbon thermal pad coupled with plastic or metal push pins or rivets.